My upstairs ceiling has always had cracks between the boards - not helped
by being so close to the West Coast Main Line! Now that the line has been
'upgraded' and the lines have rubber pads under them, it seems to be worth
having [another] go. My father spent years trying to seal the cracks, so in
some places there's a build-up of whatever he used.

I bought a box of dry-wall screws (38x3.5) - having 1000 of 'em I'd like to
use a few.
Tried running some in with the portable drill; went in OK, stopped just
below flush but the edge of the board cracks. Also the joints aren't all
central on the joists, so there could be 3 - 4cm one side and 2 - 1cm the
other.
Before I perforate the whole damned sheet, please advise me on how to do
this. If necessary I'll drill and c/sink the holes.
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.

In article ,
PeterC wrote:
My upstairs ceiling has always had cracks between the boards - not
helped by being so close to the West Coast Main Line! Now that the line
has been 'upgraded' and the lines have rubber pads under them, it seems
to be worth having [another] go. My father spent years trying to seal
the cracks, so in some places there's a build-up of whatever he used.

More likely caused by movement in the timber it's attached to.

--
*A bartender is just a pharmacist with a limited inventory *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

PeterC wrote:
My upstairs ceiling has always had cracks between the boards - not
helped by being so close to the West Coast Main Line! Now that the
line has been 'upgraded' and the lines have rubber pads under them,
it seems to be worth having [another] go. My father spent years
trying to seal the cracks, so in some places there's a build-up of
whatever he used.

I bought a box of dry-wall screws (38x3.5) - having 1000 of 'em I'd
like to use a few.
Tried running some in with the portable drill; went in OK, stopped
just below flush but the edge of the board cracks. Also the joints
aren't all central on the joists, so there could be 3 - 4cm one side
and 2 - 1cm the other.
Before I perforate the whole damned sheet, please advise me on how to
do this. If necessary I'll drill and c/sink the holes.

Have you tried 'jacking up' the plasterboard to meet the underside of the
joists?
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/14003/...-14003#reviews



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Aug 15, 12:02*pm, PeterC wrote:
My upstairs ceiling has always had cracks between the boards - not helped
by being so close to the West Coast Main Line! Now that the line has been
'upgraded' and the lines have rubber pads under them, it seems to be worth
having [another] go. My father spent years trying to seal the cracks, so in
some places there's a build-up of whatever he used.

I bought a box of dry-wall screws (38x3.5) - having 1000 of 'em I'd like to
use a few.
Tried running some in with the portable drill; went in OK, stopped just
below flush but the edge of the board cracks. Also the joints aren't all
central on the joists, so there could be 3 - 4cm one side and 2 - 1cm the
other.
Before I perforate the whole damned sheet, please advise me on how to do
this. If necessary I'll drill and c/sink the holes.

When the board cracks its often because youre putting the screw in too
close to the board edge. The other point is not to countersink them at
all, make them dead flush, again less chance of cracking.


NT

On Sat, 15 Aug 2009 12:09:33 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
PeterC wrote:
My upstairs ceiling has always had cracks between the boards - not
helped by being so close to the West Coast Main Line! Now that the line
has been 'upgraded' and the lines have rubber pads under them, it seems
to be worth having [another] go. My father spent years trying to seal
the cracks, so in some places there's a build-up of whatever he used.

More likely caused by movement in the timber it's attached to.

Possibly for most, but some is actually down a bit (mm or so) relative to
the adjacent board.
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.

On Sat, 15 Aug 2009 11:27:47 GMT, The Medway Handyman wrote:

PeterC wrote:
My upstairs ceiling has always had cracks between the boards - not
helped by being so close to the West Coast Main Line! Now that the
line has been 'upgraded' and the lines have rubber pads under them,
it seems to be worth having [another] go. My father spent years
trying to seal the cracks, so in some places there's a build-up of
whatever he used.

I bought a box of dry-wall screws (38x3.5) - having 1000 of 'em I'd
like to use a few.
Tried running some in with the portable drill; went in OK, stopped
just below flush but the edge of the board cracks. Also the joints
aren't all central on the joists, so there could be 3 - 4cm one side
and 2 - 1cm the other.
Before I perforate the whole damned sheet, please advise me on how to
do this. If necessary I'll drill and c/sink the holes.

Have you tried 'jacking up' the plasterboard to meet the underside of the
joists?
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/14003/...-14003#reviews

'tis a thought, but there's still the problem of being too close to the
edge where the joist isn't in the middle.
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.

On Sat, 15 Aug 2009 08:37:24 -0700 (PDT), NT wrote:

On Aug 15, 12:02*pm, PeterC wrote:
My upstairs ceiling has always had cracks between the boards - not helped
by being so close to the West Coast Main Line! Now that the line has been
'upgraded' and the lines have rubber pads under them, it seems to be worth
having [another] go. My father spent years trying to seal the cracks, so in
some places there's a build-up of whatever he used.

I bought a box of dry-wall screws (38x3.5) - having 1000 of 'em I'd like to
use a few.
Tried running some in with the portable drill; went in OK, stopped just
below flush but the edge of the board cracks. Also the joints aren't all
central on the joists, so there could be 3 - 4cm one side and 2 - 1cm the
other.
Before I perforate the whole damned sheet, please advise me on how to do
this. If necessary I'll drill and c/sink the holes.

When the board cracks its often because youre putting the screw in too
close to the board edge. The other point is not to countersink them at
all, make them dead flush, again less chance of cracking.

NT

Yes, but if the p/b is only a cm or so over the joist there's not much
choice.
I'm trying to get them flush but that in itself is cracking the board. I
might have a go at putting in a flush countersink and propping the board,
so that the only starin is the weight.
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.

On Aug 15, 7:36*pm, PeterC wrote:
On Sat, 15 Aug 2009 08:37:24 -0700 (PDT), NT wrote:
On Aug 15, 12:02*pm, PeterC wrote:
My upstairs ceiling has always had cracks between the boards - not helped
by being so close to the West Coast Main Line! Now that the line has been
'upgraded' and the lines have rubber pads under them, it seems to be worth
having [another] go. My father spent years trying to seal the cracks, so in
some places there's a build-up of whatever he used.

I bought a box of dry-wall screws (38x3.5) - having 1000 of 'em I'd like to
use a few.
Tried running some in with the portable drill; went in OK, stopped just
below flush but the edge of the board cracks. Also the joints aren't all
central on the joists, so there could be 3 - 4cm one side and 2 - 1cm the
other.
Before I perforate the whole damned sheet, please advise me on how to do
this. If necessary I'll drill and c/sink the holes.

When the board cracks its often because youre putting the screw in too
close to the board edge. The other point is not to countersink them at
all, make them dead flush, again less chance of cracking.

NT

Yes, but if the p/b is only a cm or so over the joist there's not much
choice.

yes

I'm trying to get them flush but that in itself is cracking the board. I
might have a go at putting in a flush countersink and propping the board,
so that the only starin is the weight.

If you mean countersinking and predrilling each hole, in extremis that
does help, and sounds like it may be worth it for you.


NT

NT wrote:
On Aug 15, 7:36 pm, PeterC wrote:
On Sat, 15 Aug 2009 08:37:24 -0700 (PDT), NT wrote:
On Aug 15, 12:02 pm, PeterC wrote:
My upstairs ceiling has always had cracks between the boards - not helped
by being so close to the West Coast Main Line! Now that the line has been
'upgraded' and the lines have rubber pads under them, it seems to be worth
having [another] go. My father spent years trying to seal the cracks, so in
some places there's a build-up of whatever he used.
I bought a box of dry-wall screws (38x3.5) - having 1000 of 'em I'd like to
use a few.
Tried running some in with the portable drill; went in OK, stopped just
below flush but the edge of the board cracks. Also the joints aren't all
central on the joists, so there could be 3 - 4cm one side and 2 - 1cm the
other.
Before I perforate the whole damned sheet, please advise me on how to do
this. If necessary I'll drill and c/sink the holes.
When the board cracks its often because youre putting the screw in too
close to the board edge. The other point is not to countersink them at
all, make them dead flush, again less chance of cracking.
NT
Yes, but if the p/b is only a cm or so over the joist there's not much
choice.

yes

I'm trying to get them flush but that in itself is cracking the board. I
might have a go at putting in a flush countersink and propping the board,
so that the only starin is the weight.

If you mean countersinking and predrilling each hole, in extremis that
does help, and sounds like it may be worth it for you.


NT
My joists are very uneven so I screwed thin battens under the joists
then fixed plasterboard to the battens
many of which i managed to attach at the exact width of the plassterboard
so I didnt have to trim the edges.

[g]

On Sat, 15 Aug 2009 13:27:56 -0700 (PDT), NT wrote:

I'm trying to get them flush but that in itself is cracking the board. I
might have a go at putting in a flush countersink and propping the board,
so that the only starin is the weight.

If you mean countersinking and predrilling each hole, in extremis that
does help, and sounds like it may be worth it for you.

Yes. A bit slow, but I'd need fewer screws anyway, as they should be better
at holding. Doing it this way, I can push the board upwards with one hand
whilst running in the screw.
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.

On Sun, 16 Aug 2009 02:33:12 +0100, george (dicegeorge) wrote:

Yes, but if the p/b is only a cm or so over the joist there's not much
choice.

yes

I'm trying to get them flush but that in itself is cracking the board. I
might have a go at putting in a flush countersink and propping the board,
so that the only starin is the weight.

If you mean countersinking and predrilling each hole, in extremis that
does help, and sounds like it may be worth it for you.

NT
My joists are very uneven so I screwed thin battens under the joists
then fixed plasterboard to the battens
many of which i managed to attach at the exact width of the plassterboard
so I didnt have to trim the edges.

Good move for new boards - not on for existing ones. It might be worth me
putting some extra timber where the overlap is really poor, otherwise the
screw would have to be at an angle!
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.

On Aug 16, 12:13*pm, PeterC wrote:
On Sat, 15 Aug 2009 13:27:56 -0700 (PDT), NT wrote:
I'm trying to get them flush but that in itself is cracking the board. I
might have a go at putting in a flush countersink and propping the board,
so that the only starin is the weight.

If you mean countersinking and predrilling each hole, in extremis that
does help, and sounds like it may be worth it for you.

Yes. A bit slow, but I'd need fewer screws anyway, as they should be better
at holding. Doing it this way, I can push the board upwards with one hand
whilst running in the screw.

It sounds like youre out of other faster options. Any fixing that
breaks the board up will make things worse rather than better.

There is another way, but probably not warranted in your case. Prop
the ceiling up using timber uprights and sheets of whatever, then lift
some floorboards above and pour a thin plaster mix on.


NT

On Sun, 16 Aug 2009 13:17:50 -0700 (PDT), NT wrote:

On Aug 16, 12:13*pm, PeterC wrote:
On Sat, 15 Aug 2009 13:27:56 -0700 (PDT), NT wrote:
I'm trying to get them flush but that in itself is cracking the board. I
might have a go at putting in a flush countersink and propping the board,
so that the only starin is the weight.

If you mean countersinking and predrilling each hole, in extremis that
does help, and sounds like it may be worth it for you.

Yes. A bit slow, but I'd need fewer screws anyway, as they should be better
at holding. Doing it this way, I can push the board upwards with one hand
whilst running in the screw.

It sounds like youre out of other faster options. Any fixing that
breaks the board up will make things worse rather than better.

There is another way, but probably not warranted in your case. Prop
the ceiling up using timber uprights and sheets of whatever, then lift
some floorboards above and pour a thin plaster mix on.

NT

Hadn't thought of that - thanks.
It's actually a case of lifting the insulation, as this is to the loft.
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.