Simple questions, I hope...

I've been told by the powers that be to build/buy/steal a garden gate
and fit it.

So in my wisdom I've decided to build one, that way I get to decide how
tall, how thick etc...

The timber merchant has 5" and 6" T&G flooring which I assume, with
suitable preservative treatment, will be OK?

Also, what's the difference between whitewood and redwood?
--
Clint Sharp

Timber merchants refer to spruce and pine as whitewood and redwood
respectively. For joinery, you want redwood. Whitewood is more
commonly used for constructional work that will not be seen.

T&G boards are perfectly acceptable for a gate - usually built up as a
"ledged and braced" door (with the classic Z pattern of braces on the
back - often seen on sheds) or used to board over a "framed" door
(where more substantial timbers are morticed and tenoned together to
form the frame).

A prettier appearance is T,G & V - where the V is a v-groove formed by
a bevel on each edge of the board.

Either way, think about how you will ensure rainwater drains away from
the door/gate well, and doesn't sit on the ledges or work its way into
the joints.

On 10 July, 18:30, Clint Sharp wrote:
Simple questions, I hope...

I've been told by the powers that be to build/buy/steal a garden gate
and fit it.

So in my wisdom I've decided to build one, that way I get to decide how
tall, how thick etc...

The timber merchant has 5" and 6" T&G flooring which I assume, with
suitable preservative treatment, will be OK?

Also, what's the difference between whitewood and redwood?
--
Clint Sharp

Whitewood will not absorb preservative
I would not touch it with a barge pole for that purpose

If you use Redwood have it vac vac treated after making it and use an
exterior non-pva glue such as an epoxy resin
Chris

RubberBiker wrote:
Timber merchants refer to spruce and pine as whitewood and redwood
respectively. For joinery, you want redwood. Whitewood is more
commonly used for constructional work that will not be seen.

T&G boards are perfectly acceptable for a gate - usually built up as a
"ledged and braced" door (with the classic Z pattern of braces on the
back - often seen on sheds) or used to board over a "framed" door
(where more substantial timbers are morticed and tenoned together to
form the frame).

A prettier appearance is T,G & V - where the V is a v-groove formed by
a bevel on each edge of the board.

Either way, think about how you will ensure rainwater drains away from
the door/gate well, and doesn't sit on the ledges or work its way into
the joints.


An open slatted redwood gate will last well without any treatment. If
there are no gaps between the slats, it'll be a battle stopping it
rotting for the reason given above.

On 10 July, 18:30, Clint Sharp wrote:

Also, what's the difference between whitewood and redwood?

One is a random softwood from a merchant who doesn't care beyond that
and so is the other.

Find a better merchant that can sell you a known species. Then make it
larch, maybe Doug fir (with preservative), one of the outdoor-capable
cedars or else iroko (more expensive, sustainability issues, but
heavier and lasts better). Species choice beforehand preserves better
than applying goop afterwards.

Make it with big mortice and tenon joints and a few oversized
stainless screws to lock these. Don't use nails or glue, they don't
last. Maybe seal endgrain with epoxy. Don't use PU glue, it doesn't
survive UV. Design to avoid water traps, esp around end grain.

Andy Dingley wrote:
On 10 July, 18:30, Clint Sharp wrote:

Also, what's the difference between whitewood and redwood?

One is a random softwood from a merchant who doesn't care beyond that
and so is the other.

Find a better merchant that can sell you a known species.

European Redwood is a known species but there is a huge variation in
quality and price depending on where it's grown. Some is fit for
joinery, and some for fencing. Very much a case of getting what you pay
for.


Then make it
larch, maybe Doug fir (with preservative), one of the outdoor-capable
cedars or else iroko (more expensive, sustainability issues, but
heavier and lasts better). Species choice beforehand preserves better
than applying goop afterwards.

Make it with big mortice and tenon joints and a few oversized
stainless screws to lock these. Don't use nails or glue, they don't
last. Maybe seal endgrain with epoxy. Don't use PU glue, it doesn't
survive UV. Design to avoid water traps, esp around end grain.