What temperature should I be getting inside a fridge. Myine is showing 15
degrees C so in the unsafe zone. It is getting on a bit so ready to be
changed I think but it does work, the chiller at the back is certainly cold
but obviously not cold enough.

Kevin

"Zen83237" wrote in message
...
What temperature should I be getting inside a fridge. Myine is showing 15
degrees C so in the unsafe zone. It is getting on a bit so ready to be
changed I think but it does work, the chiller at the back is certainly
cold but obviously not cold enough.

7C max. preferably 5C

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Zen83237 wrote:

What temperature should I be getting inside a fridge. Myine is
showing 15 degrees C so in the unsafe zone. It is getting on a bit so
ready to be changed I think but it does work, the chiller at the back
is certainly cold but obviously not cold enough.

Kevin

Blimey, 15 is nearly room temperature - where the bugs will multiply no end!

You should be aiming for 4 degC. I assume it *is* switched on?g
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

"Roger Mills" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Zen83237 wrote:

What temperature should I be getting inside a fridge. Myine is
showing 15 degrees C so in the unsafe zone. It is getting on a bit so
ready to be changed I think but it does work, the chiller at the back
is certainly cold but obviously not cold enough.

Kevin

Blimey, 15 is nearly room temperature - where the bugs will multiply no
end!

You should be aiming for 4 degC. I assume it *is* switched on?g
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!
Yes hence it isn't being used but it does feel cold or shall we say cool
inside. I can only assume the reason I didn't notice until recently it that
it has been so bloody cold that room temperature has stopped anything going
off.
I wondered if it was on, but the light comes on and the cooling plate at the
back feels cold so it is working but very badly. Anyway it it sufficiently
old just to get shot of it.
I should say that milk and some other stuff has been kept in a small work
top fridge hence not noticing as it has hardly been used.

Kevin

"Zen83237" wrote in message
...
What temperature should I be getting inside a fridge. Myine is showing 15
degrees C so in the unsafe zone. It is getting on a bit so ready to be
changed I think but it does work, the chiller at the back is certainly
cold but obviously not cold enough.


i keep my motorhomes fridge between 2 and 5 degrees, have a thermoniter with
settable alarms, so it goes off if it ever reaches 7 degrees,

apparantly the best way to get an accurate temperature of a fridge is to put
a glass of water in the middle with a thermomiter in it,

i can get different readings just by the placement of my digital
thermomiters sensor, so settled for sticking it to the underside in the
middle of the centre shelf, which is glass (yes i know, bloody stupid design
of a motorhome fridge to have glass shelves in it, i'd prefer wire racks, so
the air can circulate easier.

On Wed, 08 Jul 2009 22:26:30 +0100, gazz wrote:
with a thermomiter in it,

That's a tool for explosively creating bevelled joints, right?

On 8 July, 18:53, "Zen83237" wrote:
What temperature should I be getting inside a fridge. Myine is showing 15
degrees C so in the unsafe zone. It is getting on a bit so ready to be
changed I think but it does work, the chiller at the back is certainly cold
but obviously not cold enough.

Kevin

look at the storage temperature on the label of a carton of milk!!

"Zen83237" wrote in message
...

"Roger Mills" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Zen83237 wrote:

What temperature should I be getting inside a fridge. Myine is
showing 15 degrees C so in the unsafe zone. It is getting on a bit so
ready to be changed I think but it does work, the chiller at the back
is certainly cold but obviously not cold enough.

Kevin

Blimey, 15 is nearly room temperature - where the bugs will multiply no
end!

You should be aiming for 4 degC. I assume it *is* switched on?g
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!
Yes hence it isn't being used but it does feel cold or shall we say cool
inside. I can only assume the reason I didn't notice until recently it
that it has been so bloody cold that room temperature has stopped anything
going off.
I wondered if it was on, but the light comes on and the cooling plate at
the back feels cold so it is working but very badly. Anyway it it
sufficiently old just to get shot of it.
I should say that milk and some other stuff has been kept in a small work
top fridge hence not noticing as it has hardly been used.

As this is uk.d-i-y I feel compelled to point out that if the cooling plate
is cold but the fridge stays warm it's probably just the door seal not
sealing properly. Either the door is twisted (just apply twisting force to
repair) or the seal is simply knackered (buy a new one and fit). No way to
fix it with an angle grinder that I know of.

On 8 July, 22:32, Tommy wrote:
On 8 July, 18:53, "Zen83237" wrote:

What temperature should I be getting inside a fridge. Myine is showing 15
degrees C so in the unsafe zone. It is getting on a bit so ready to be
changed I think but it does work, the chiller at the back is certainly cold
but obviously not cold enough.

Kevin

look at the storage temperature on the label of a carton of milk!!

Is it a bosch fridge?

My bosch fridge/freezer fridge top half(fridge) stopped working last
week.
The door was left open overnight no alarm built into it!
Had to defrost the ****er(freezer) and throw out a lot of ****e that
wouldnt be eaten anyway.
dismantled it whilst it was defrosting to try to save some ****,( not
worth it.)

Found no obvious signs of fault and rebuilt.

Rebuilt and plugged in after 3 hours of pain.

Works great now.
The ****!

On 8 July, 22:43, Tommy wrote:
On 8 July, 22:32, Tommy wrote:

On 8 July, 18:53, "Zen83237" wrote:

What temperature should I be getting inside a fridge. Myine is showing 15
degrees C so in the unsafe zone. It is getting on a bit so ready to be
changed I think but it does work, the chiller at the back is certainly cold
but obviously not cold enough.

Kevin

look at the storage temperature on the label of a carton of milk!!

Is it a bosch fridge?

My bosch fridge/freezer fridge top half(fridge) stopped working last
week.
The door was left open overnight *no alarm built into it!
Had to defrost the ****er(freezer) and throw out a lot of ****e that
wouldnt be eaten anyway.
dismantled it whilst it was defrosting to try to save some ****,( not
worth it.)

Found no obvious signs of fault and rebuilt.

Rebuilt and plugged in after 3 hours of pain.

Works great now.
The ****!

I ****ING HATE FRIDGES!!!

On Wed, 8 Jul 2009 22:33:32 +0100, "Calvin Sambrook"
had this to say:

As this is uk.d-i-y I feel compelled to point out that if the cooling plate
is cold but the fridge stays warm it's probably just the door seal not
sealing properly. Either the door is twisted (just apply twisting force to
repair) or the seal is simply knackered (buy a new one and fit). No way to
fix it with an angle grinder that I know of.

You could spray it with WD-40 though.

Or use car body filler.
--
Frank Erskine

On 8 July, 22:49, Frank Erskine wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jul 2009 22:33:32 +0100, "Calvin Sambrook"
had this to say:

As this is uk.d-i-y I feel compelled to point out that if the cooling plate
is cold but the fridge stays warm it's probably just the door seal not
sealing properly. *Either the door is twisted (just apply twisting force to
repair) or the seal is simply knackered (buy a new one and fit). *No way to
fix it with an angle grinder that I know of.

You could spray it with WD-40 though.

Or use car body filler.
--
Frank Erskine
OBVIOUSLY WITH A NAME LIKE THAT YOU ARE A FRIDGE ENGINEER!

On 8 July, 22:52, Tommy wrote:
On 8 July, 22:49, Frank Erskine wrote: On Wed, 8 Jul 2009 22:33:32 +0100, "Calvin Sambrook"
had this to say:

As this is uk.d-i-y I feel compelled to point out that if the cooling plate
is cold but the fridge stays warm it's probably just the door seal not
sealing properly. *Either the door is twisted (just apply twisting force to
repair) or the seal is simply knackered (buy a new one and fit). *No way to
fix it with an angle grinder that I know of.

You could spray it with WD-40 though.

Or use car body filler.
--
Frank Erskine

*OBVIOUSLY WITH A NAME LIKE THAT YOU ARE A FRIDGE ENGINEER!

We all know calvin is a ******!

Calvin Sambrook wrote:
"Zen83237" wrote in message
...

"Roger Mills" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Zen83237 wrote:

What temperature should I be getting inside a fridge. Myine is
showing 15 degrees C so in the unsafe zone. It is getting on a bit so
ready to be changed I think but it does work, the chiller at the back
is certainly cold but obviously not cold enough.

Kevin

Blimey, 15 is nearly room temperature - where the bugs will multiply
no end!

You should be aiming for 4 degC. I assume it *is* switched on?g
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!
Yes hence it isn't being used but it does feel cold or shall we say
cool inside. I can only assume the reason I didn't notice until
recently it that it has been so bloody cold that room temperature has
stopped anything going off.
I wondered if it was on, but the light comes on and the cooling plate
at the back feels cold so it is working but very badly. Anyway it it
sufficiently old just to get shot of it.
I should say that milk and some other stuff has been kept in a small
work top fridge hence not noticing as it has hardly been used.

As this is uk.d-i-y I feel compelled to point out that if the cooling
plate is cold but the fridge stays warm it's probably just the door seal
not sealing properly. Either the door is twisted (just apply twisting
force to repair) or the seal is simply knackered (buy a new one and
fit). No way to fix it with an angle grinder that I know of.

How else would you get all the ice that has pushed the door open off?

Tommy wrote:
On 8 July, 22:43, Tommy wrote:
On 8 July, 22:32, Tommy wrote:

On 8 July, 18:53, "Zen83237" wrote:
What temperature should I be getting inside a fridge. Myine is showing 15
degrees C so in the unsafe zone. It is getting on a bit so ready to be
changed I think but it does work, the chiller at the back is certainly cold
but obviously not cold enough.
Kevin
look at the storage temperature on the label of a carton of milk!!
Is it a bosch fridge?

My bosch fridge/freezer fridge top half(fridge) stopped working last
week.
The door was left open overnight no alarm built into it!
Had to defrost the ****er(freezer) and throw out a lot of ****e that
wouldnt be eaten anyway.
dismantled it whilst it was defrosting to try to save some ****,( not
worth it.)

Found no obvious signs of fault and rebuilt.

Rebuilt and plugged in after 3 hours of pain.

Works great now.
The ****!

I ****ING HATE FRIDGES!!!
Not as much as I hate dishwashers..

Frank Erskine wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jul 2009 22:33:32 +0100, "Calvin Sambrook"
had this to say:

As this is uk.d-i-y I feel compelled to point out that if the
cooling plate is cold but the fridge stays warm it's probably just
the door seal not sealing properly. Either the door is twisted
(just apply twisting force to repair) or the seal is simply
knackered (buy a new one and fit). No way to fix it with an angle
grinder that I know of.

You could spray it with WD-40 though.

Now you're talking. WD40 is the new angle grinder...


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Thu, 09 Jul 2009 17:28:37 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
had this to say:

Frank Erskine wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jul 2009 22:33:32 +0100, "Calvin Sambrook"
had this to say:

As this is uk.d-i-y I feel compelled to point out that if the
cooling plate is cold but the fridge stays warm it's probably just
the door seal not sealing properly. Either the door is twisted
(just apply twisting force to repair) or the seal is simply
knackered (buy a new one and fit). No way to fix it with an angle
grinder that I know of.

You could spray it with WD-40 though.

Now you're talking. WD40 is the new angle grinder...

It wouldn't do any good of course - but then that's the norm for
WD-40...

--
Frank Erskine

"Zen83237" wrote in message
...
What temperature should I be getting inside a fridge. Myine is showing 15
degrees C so in the unsafe zone. It is getting on a bit so ready to be
changed I think but it does work, the chiller at the back is certainly
cold but obviously not cold enough.


Around 5 degrees C

Is it a standalone fridge or one attached to a freezer? If the latter, in
may well be cooled by cold air from the freezer. If the air flow is blocked
(may be by ice or something packed in) or the "flap" which controls the flow
is stuck etc. , that could be the problem.

Brian

Frank Erskine wrote:
On Thu, 09 Jul 2009 17:28:37 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
had this to say:

Frank Erskine wrote:
On Wed, 8 Jul 2009 22:33:32 +0100, "Calvin Sambrook"
had this to say:

As this is uk.d-i-y I feel compelled to point out that if the
cooling plate is cold but the fridge stays warm it's probably just
the door seal not sealing properly. Either the door is twisted
(just apply twisting force to repair) or the seal is simply
knackered (buy a new one and fit). No way to fix it with an angle
grinder that I know of.

You could spray it with WD-40 though.

Now you're talking. WD40 is the new angle grinder...

It wouldn't do any good of course - but then that's the norm for
WD-40...

Right, thats you on the list. Come the revolution...


--
Dave - WD40 Liberation Front.

Tommy :

Works great now.
The ****!

I ****ING HATE FRIDGES!!!

Why do you keep replying to yourself, numbnuts?

Zen83237 laid this down on his screen :
What temperature should I be getting inside a fridge. Myine is showing 15
degrees C so in the unsafe zone. It is getting on a bit so ready to be
changed I think but it does work, the chiller at the back is certainly cold
but obviously not cold enough.

If you meant the fridge, rather than the freezer section and +15 rather
than -15....

Your fridge section should be below +7 deg C your freezer below (minus
of) -17 deg C.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 20:26:42 +0100, Harry Bloomfield
had this to say:

Zen83237 laid this down on his screen :
What temperature should I be getting inside a fridge. Myine is showing 15
degrees C so in the unsafe zone. It is getting on a bit so ready to be
changed I think but it does work, the chiller at the back is certainly cold
but obviously not cold enough.

If you meant the fridge, rather than the freezer section and +15 rather
than -15....

Your fridge section should be below +7 deg C your freezer below (minus
of) -17 deg C.

My Siemens F/F is set at +4C and -18C, and I'm still (only just!)
extant...

I usually keep mushrooms in the bottom of the fridge section (with a
few tomatos and potatos) and they're usually a bit frosty when I
remove a few for brekker...

--
Frank Erskine

Some fridges can be quite marginal...
- Some require the bottom "vegetable & debris bucket" to be in place
and a shelf set correctly
- Others do not like working unless there is something in there to
cool

The only way to really know fridge temperature is a glass of water &
thermometer.
It should really be no more than 7oC and the ideal is around 5oC
(although certain foods have more specific requirements like cheese,
lettuce, and so on).

Critical maintenance is preventing the rear fridge cool plate from
icing up - on some slimline Inde**** this basically makes the fridge
temperature climb inexorably away from safe levels. Common failure
modes of fridge freezer is for the thermostat to fail - in some cases
jamming on (usually noticed by £120+ increase in electricity bill and
paint burnt off a very rust-orange compressor).

Measuring air or object surface temperature is pretty pointless.
This not withstanding a professor moron of john moores was observed
jumping around on BBC television news after "discovering" that surface
temperature of objects rose markedly when the door was opened. Within
even 1 millimetre of the objects surface the temperature was of course
quite normal. I guess he also believed insulation was perfect too.
Quite how he got an O-Level in physics never mind a professorship is
beyond me.

I might be the odd one out, but I think all fridge/freezer
manufacturers *should* be forced to provide LED temperature displays
for both. I suspect they have not purely because many products are
actually quite marginal with either minor ice build up (and never mind
the fun of frost free). Alarms could be an lucrative optional plug-in
extra like a card, SMT piezo & bit of logic - like a big SD. Can not
understand Bosch putting the green/red lights behind the door seal so
you can't see them without opening the door. Genius. They do have a
dial thermostat in the door which has ambiguous markings.

On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 16:44:28 -0700 (PDT), "js.b1"
wrote:

Some fridges can be quite marginal...
- Some require the bottom "vegetable & debris bucket" to be in place
and a shelf set correctly
- Others do not like working unless there is something in there to
cool

The only way to really know fridge temperature is a glass of water &
thermometer.
It should really be no more than 7oC and the ideal is around 5oC
(although certain foods have more specific requirements like cheese,
lettuce, and so on).

Critical maintenance is preventing the rear fridge cool plate from
icing up - on some slimline Inde**** this basically makes the fridge
temperature climb inexorably away from safe levels. Common failure
modes of fridge freezer is for the thermostat to fail - in some cases
jamming on (usually noticed by £120+ increase in electricity bill and
paint burnt off a very rust-orange compressor).

Common failure modes of frost free fridge/freezers is the defroster
fails and the fridge temperature rises.

I might be the odd one out, but I think all fridge/freezer
manufacturers *should* be forced to provide LED temperature displays
for both. I suspect they have not purely because many products are
actually quite marginal with either minor ice build up (and never mind
the fun of frost free). Alarms could be an lucrative optional plug-in
extra like a card, SMT piezo & bit of logic - like a big SD. Can not
understand Bosch putting the green/red lights behind the door seal so
you can't see them without opening the door. Genius. They do have a
dial thermostat in the door which has ambiguous markings.

My Liebherr also has all the controls and lights hidden behind the
door. Unless your fridge has a fan then there is likely to be a
temperature gradient in your fridge. i.e. it is cooler at the bottom
than at the top.
--
(\__/) M.
(='.'=) Due to the amount of spam posted via googlegroups and
(")_(") their inaction to the problem. I am blocking most articles
posted from there. If you wish your postings to be seen by
everyone you will need use a different method of posting.
[Reply-to address valid until it is spammed.]