Hello,

I'm about to box a vertical run of pipes running to/from the boiler in
the kicthen. The box will need to be about 5' tall and 1' wide. So I
screw a piece of timber either side of the pipes for the sides, so far
so good, but what do I use for the 5'x1' face of the box? Would you
just use plywood and paint it?

I can't remember what was there before; it may have been hardboard. It
was something pretty thin IIRC.

I don't know what plans my OH has for redecorating the kitchen. Could
I paper or tile over plywood? Or would it be best to leave the box
untiled/unpapered to allow for access should something terrible
happen?

I did wonder about plasterboard: much cheaper than ply and can be
painted, papered and tiled but since I would have to cut it to size,
how could I get a neat edge?

Thanks in advance.

"Fred" wrote

Hello,

I'm about to box a vertical run of pipes running to/from the boiler in
the kicthen. The box will need to be about 5' tall and 1' wide. So I
screw a piece of timber either side of the pipes for the sides, so far
so good, but what do I use for the 5'x1' face of the box? Would you
just use plywood and paint it?

I used MDF for similar application. Careful filling of screw holes etc and
you get a good surface for painting.
Recommend that you insulate the pipes before fitting as the constant
temperature fluctuation may open up joints etc

Phil

In article ,
Fred wrote:
I'm about to box a vertical run of pipes running to/from the boiler in
the kicthen. The box will need to be about 5' tall and 1' wide. So I
screw a piece of timber either side of the pipes for the sides, so far
so good, but what do I use for the 5'x1' face of the box? Would you
just use plywood and paint it?

I'd say MDF is ideal.

I can't remember what was there before; it may have been hardboard. It
was something pretty thin IIRC.

Hardboard is a bit on the weak side.

I don't know what plans my OH has for redecorating the kitchen. Could
I paper or tile over plywood? Or would it be best to leave the box
untiled/unpapered to allow for access should something terrible
happen?

Best not cover them up at all if you think something terrible might
happen. ;-)

I did wonder about plasterboard: much cheaper than ply and can be
painted, papered and tiled but since I would have to cut it to size,
how could I get a neat edge?

If you're tiling, that provides the edge. You might be able to make the
box an exact number of tiles wide. Or use tile edging strip if the tiles
ain't suitable.

--
*Strip mining prevents forest fires.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Fred wrote:

Hello,

I'm about to box a vertical run of pipes running to/from the boiler in
the kicthen. The box will need to be about 5' tall and 1' wide. So I
screw a piece of timber either side of the pipes for the sides, so far
so good, but what do I use for the 5'x1' face of the box? Would you
just use plywood and paint it?

I can't remember what was there before; it may have been hardboard. It
was something pretty thin IIRC.

I don't know what plans my OH has for redecorating the kitchen. Could
I paper or tile over plywood? Or would it be best to leave the box
untiled/unpapered to allow for access should something terrible
happen?

I did wonder about plasterboard: much cheaper than ply and can be
painted, papered and tiled but since I would have to cut it to size,
how could I get a neat edge?

Thanks in advance.


At 1' wide, you need something a bit more rigid than hardboard.

When I had to make a similar box recently, I used MDF (either 6 or 8mm
thick - can't remember which - I just happened to have some lying around. I
painted mine - but it was on a painted wall anyway. Unless you *expect* to
have to access the pipes, there's no reason not to paper or tile over the
box if you wish.

Getting neat edges on MDF isn't difficult if you have access to a table
saw - or even a hand-held circular saw. The same *doesn't* apply to
plasterboard - whose edges are not supposed to be exposed. Only use
plasterboard if you're going to use some expanded metal corners and then
skim over it - unless you're tiling all round, in which case it would be ok.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

On 18 May, 12:39, Fred wrote:
Hello,

I'm about to box a vertical run of pipes running to/from the boiler in
the kicthen. The box will need to be about 5' tall and 1' wide. So I
screw a piece of timber either side of the pipes for the sides, so far
so good, but what do I use for the 5'x1' face of the box? Would you
just use plywood and paint it?

I can't remember what was there before; it may have been hardboard. It
was something pretty thin IIRC.

I don't know what plans my OH has for redecorating the kitchen. Could
I paper or tile over plywood? Or would it be best to leave the box
untiled/unpapered to allow for access should something terrible
happen?

I did wonder about plasterboard: much cheaper than ply and can be
painted, papered and tiled but since I would have to cut it to size,
how could I get a neat edge?

Thanks in advance.

At work, there's always someone boxing something in and the chippies
seem to use MDF every time. I guess one advantage is that you can get
so many thicknesses of MDF, you can always find one that's right to
give a rigid job without overkill.

In terms of removability, it seems to me that either you rely on
having a good job under it, so you don't need to get to it, or you
'know' where the screws etc are. On possibility is to tile then fix
using the screws that you use to fix mirrors, with a chromed dome
screwed into the head.

Fred wrote:
Hello,

I'm about to box a vertical run of pipes running to/from the boiler in
the kicthen. The box will need to be about 5' tall and 1' wide. So I
screw a piece of timber either side of the pipes for the sides, so far
so good, but what do I use for the 5'x1' face of the box? Would you
just use plywood and paint it?

plasterboard, and fill with insulation stiff.rockwool. Or 12mm MDF for
a painted finish maybe.

I can't remember what was there before; it may have been hardboard. It
was something pretty thin IIRC.

I don't know what plans my OH has for redecorating the kitchen. Could
I paper or tile over plywood?

tile certainmly. Paper ? Depends on the finish, but should be OK.

Or would it be best to leave the box
untiled/unpapered to allow for access should something terrible
happen?

No. to be frank ripping out and redoing boxing is hardly the worst DIY job.

I did wonder about plasterboard: much cheaper than ply and can be
painted, papered and tiled but since I would have to cut it to size,
how could I get a neat edge?

You cant. Sand it afterwards! Or use some hard beading and skim to that.



Thanks in advance.

Fred wrote:

I did wonder about plasterboard: much cheaper than ply and can be
painted, papered and tiled but since I would have to cut it to size,
how could I get a neat edge?

You basically lap the sides or the front and then fill with the proper
board fill filler. Surform to the approx shape you want and then sand -
the filler is designed to sand very easily and smooth. Its easy to get
something that looks good even if just painted.

(having said that, as others have said MDF etc would need less overall
titting about)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Fred wrote:
Hello,

I'm about to box a vertical run of pipes running to/from the boiler in
the kicthen. The box will need to be about 5' tall and 1' wide. So I
screw a piece of timber either side of the pipes for the sides, so far
so good, but what do I use for the 5'x1' face of the box? Would you
just use plywood and paint it?

MDF.



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

"Fred" wrote in message
...
Hello,

I'm about to box a vertical run of pipes running to/from the boiler in
the kicthen. The box will need to be about 5' tall and 1' wide. So I
screw a piece of timber either side of the pipes for the sides, so far
so good, but what do I use for the 5'x1' face of the box? Would you
just use plywood and paint it?

I can't remember what was there before; it may have been hardboard. It
was something pretty thin IIRC.

I don't know what plans my OH has for redecorating the kitchen. Could
I paper or tile over plywood? Or would it be best to leave the box
untiled/unpapered to allow for access should something terrible
happen?

I did wonder about plasterboard: much cheaper than ply and can be
painted, papered and tiled but since I would have to cut it to size,
how could I get a neat edge?

Thanks in advance.

Whatever happened to conti board, does it still exist?
I must have boxed in a thousand miles of pipes with that stuff.
No sanding, no painting, no cutting for the width.
A few screws and some nice white caps and Bob's yer uncle, a
nice good looking quick job.
A couple of minutes and the cover is off for inspection.

Fred wrote:
Hello,

I'm about to box a vertical run of pipes running to/from the boiler in
the kicthen. The box will need to be about 5' tall and 1' wide. So I
screw a piece of timber either side of the pipes for the sides, so far
so good, but what do I use for the 5'x1' face of the box? Would you
just use plywood and paint it?

I can't remember what was there before; it may have been hardboard. It
was something pretty thin IIRC.

I don't know what plans my OH has for redecorating the kitchen. Could
I paper or tile over plywood? Or would it be best to leave the box
untiled/unpapered to allow for access should something terrible
happen?

I did wonder about plasterboard: much cheaper than ply and can be
painted, papered and tiled but since I would have to cut it to size,
how could I get a neat edge?

Thanks in advance.

Use MDF or ply, then either tile or sand, cover with lining paper and paint

Heliotrope Smith coughed up some electrons that declared:

Whatever happened to conti board, does it still exist?
I must have boxed in a thousand miles of pipes with that stuff.
No sanding, no painting, no cutting for the width.
A few screws and some nice white caps and Bob's yer uncle, a
nice good looking quick job.
A couple of minutes and the cover is off for inspection.

It's he

http://www.conti.co.uk/range.html

I think B&Q still do it.

In article ,
Heliotrope Smith wrote:
Whatever happened to conti board, does it still exist?
I must have boxed in a thousand miles of pipes with that stuff.
No sanding, no painting, no cutting for the width.
A few screws and some nice white caps and Bob's yer uncle, a
nice good looking quick job.
A couple of minutes and the cover is off for inspection.

Most of the sheds still sell it. But only in certain widths - so you might
end up with a rather larger box than necessary.

--
*When the going gets tough, use duct tape

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Tim S wrote:
Heliotrope Smith coughed up some electrons that declared:

Whatever happened to conti board, does it still exist?
I must have boxed in a thousand miles of pipes with that stuff.
No sanding, no painting, no cutting for the width.
A few screws and some nice white caps and Bob's yer uncle, a
nice good looking quick job.
A couple of minutes and the cover is off for inspection.

It's he

http://www.conti.co.uk/range.html

I think B&Q still do it.

So do Wickes, but they call it furniture panel http://tinyurl.com/penx73


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Tue, 19 May 2009 07:48:50 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
had this to say:

Tim S wrote:
Heliotrope Smith coughed up some electrons that declared:

Whatever happened to conti board, does it still exist?
I must have boxed in a thousand miles of pipes with that stuff.
No sanding, no painting, no cutting for the width.
A few screws and some nice white caps and Bob's yer uncle, a
nice good looking quick job.
A couple of minutes and the cover is off for inspection.

It's he

http://www.conti.co.uk/range.html

I think B&Q still do it.

So do Wickes, but they call it furniture panel http://tinyurl.com/penx73

'Furniture'? From chipboard?

--
Frank Erskine

In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote:
It's he

http://www.conti.co.uk/range.html

I think B&Q still do it.

So do Wickes, but they call it furniture panel http://tinyurl.com/penx73

Yeh - Contiboard is a trade name. There are other makes.

--
*24 hours in a day ... 24 beers in a case ... coincidence? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Mon, 18 May 2009 13:45:47 +0100, "TheScullster"
wrote:


"Fred" wrote

Hello,

I'm about to box a vertical run of pipes running to/from the boiler in
the kicthen. The box will need to be about 5' tall and 1' wide. So I
screw a piece of timber either side of the pipes for the sides, so far
so good, but what do I use for the 5'x1' face of the box? Would you
just use plywood and paint it?

I used MDF for similar application. Careful filling of screw holes etc and
you get a good surface for painting.
Recommend that you insulate the pipes before fitting as the constant
temperature fluctuation may open up joints etc

Make sure the MDF cannot get wet. Otherwise it turns into weetabix.

--
(\__/) M.
(='.'=) Owing to the amount of spam posted via googlegroups and
(")_(") their inaction to the problem. I am blocking most articles
posted from there. If you wish your postings to be seen by
everyone you will need use a different method of posting.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Frank Erskine wrote:

On Tue, 19 May 2009 07:48:50 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
had this to say:


So do Wickes, but they call it furniture panel
http://tinyurl.com/penx73

'Furniture'? From chipboard?

I think you'll find that a high proportion of - even relatively expensive -
funiture is made of veneered chipboard, rather than solid wood, these days -
even if that does offend your definition of furniture!
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!