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Default sds chiselling out sockets

Hello,

I used to use angle grinders and wall chasers to make holes for
electrical sockets but read here about using an sds drill as a chisel.
I have found that as far as production of dust is concerned, chiseling
is the way to go. However, how do you limit the depth? I found the
drill got carried away with itself and would have quite happily
punched through the wall rather than stop after 35mm! Is there a trick
to this?

Thanks,
Stephen.

PS I can't really justify buying the special £50 attachment for
once-in-a-blue-moon socket fixing.
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Default sds chiselling out sockets

Stephen coughed up some electrons that declared:

Hello,

I used to use angle grinders and wall chasers to make holes for
electrical sockets but read here about using an sds drill as a chisel.
I have found that as far as production of dust is concerned, chiseling
is the way to go. However, how do you limit the depth? I found the
drill got carried away with itself and would have quite happily
punched through the wall rather than stop after 35mm! Is there a trick
to this?

Thanks,
Stephen.

PS I can't really justify buying the special £50 attachment for
once-in-a-blue-moon socket fixing.


Bit of bright tape round the chisel shank to give a rough indication of
depth?

I understand not buying a box sinker for a few one offs. I did, but I've got
over 50 boxes to sink in one go.

Cheers

Tim
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Default sds chiselling out sockets

Tim S wrote:
Stephen coughed up some electrons that declared:

Hello,

I used to use angle grinders and wall chasers to make holes for
electrical sockets but read here about using an sds drill as a chisel.
I have found that as far as production of dust is concerned, chiseling
is the way to go. However, how do you limit the depth? I found the
drill got carried away with itself and would have quite happily
punched through the wall rather than stop after 35mm! Is there a trick
to this?

Thanks,
Stephen.

PS I can't really justify buying the special £50 attachment for
once-in-a-blue-moon socket fixing.


Bit of bright tape round the chisel shank to give a rough indication of
depth?


After a bit you can judge the depth. The tape idea is sound but the
chisel will also be marked by the abrasion. You don't mention cutting
channels. I now use a channelling chisel and it's magic. You can't
achieve a perfectly even depth but once you get the correct angle it is
very quick in cement blocks. Not had to do bricks I'm glad to say.
Channelling is dusty though. Someone nearby with a vacuum cleaner is a
good idea. And mask and glasses.

Peter Scott
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Default sds chiselling out sockets

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Stephen
saying something like:

PS I can't really justify buying the special £50 attachment for
once-in-a-blue-moon socket fixing.


You can buy the wide socket chisel seperately for ~10ukp.
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Default sds chiselling out sockets

Stephen wrote:
Hello,

I used to use angle grinders and wall chasers to make holes for
electrical sockets but read here about using an sds drill as a chisel.
I have found that as far as production of dust is concerned, chiseling
is the way to go. However, how do you limit the depth? I found the
drill got carried away with itself and would have quite happily
punched through the wall rather than stop after 35mm! Is there a trick
to this?

Thanks,
Stephen.

PS I can't really justify buying the special £50 attachment for
once-in-a-blue-moon socket fixing.


Use some insulating tape to indicate the appropriate depth on the
chisel. Draw a line round your box, and then trace round it with your
chisel bit cutting to the depth set by the tape. Once the perimeter is
cut, I usually switch to a wider chisel (say 40mm rather than the 20mm I
use for the edges), and chop out the remainder using the cut edges as a
depth guide. A SDS with a decent speed control is handy for the more
delicate chiselling jobs.


--
Cheers,

John.

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