Is it traditional to use the half-hour gap between visiting relatives
to re-plumb toilets over Christmas? 8-(

For the last few weeks, the toilet has been dripping. The close-
coupled cistern isn't firmly attached to the wall, a visiting gorilla
swung on the flush handle and the rubber doughnut no longer seated
snugly into the pan. A replacement close-coupling-coupler was duly
purchased and sat awaiting tuits.

Today was the day (Tomorrow is 5 extra rellies). I soon realised that
the rubber washer on the overflow standpipe was gloopified, but no-one
sells them as spares (I think http://www.screwfix.com/prods/65267/
Plumbing/Toilet-Fittings/Fluidmaster-Blanking-Off-Plug-White is the
nearest). That was one trip for parts.

Then I tried to re-connect the water supply and couldn't get the rigid
copper pipe to mate with the mashed thread on the bottom entry valve
without leaking. Cue a 2nd trip in the opposite direction for a new
Fluidmaster valve. Previously I'd been a Torbeck fan, but these seem
faster, quieter, and don't have such tiny orifices at risk of scale.
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/84007/...ilet-Fittings/
Fluidmaster-Bottom-Entry-Fill-Valve-UK

The doughnut incidentally was no trouble,..

Now it's all back together and leak-free, but seems to have trouble
with the flush itself - the syphon doesn't stop syphoning. My
suspicion is that the fast-filling Fluidmaster simply starts to re-
fill the cistern before it's fully emptied and breaks the syphon.
After all, Delchem's design is based around a flapper valve rather
than a syphon. Is there anything I can do to regulate this? At present
I've just left the supply ball valve at 45o, which isn't quite ideal.

Andy Dingley wrote:
Is it traditional to use the half-hour gap between visiting relatives
to re-plumb toilets over Christmas? 8-(

Seems like it. Except in my case its rewiring some lights.

SNIP

Now it's all back together and leak-free, but seems to have trouble
with the flush itself - the syphon doesn't stop syphoning. My
suspicion is that the fast-filling Fluidmaster simply starts to re-
fill the cistern before it's fully emptied and breaks the syphon.
After all, Delchem's design is based around a flapper valve rather
than a syphon. Is there anything I can do to regulate this? At present
I've just left the supply ball valve at 45o, which isn't quite ideal.

Could you install a service valve on the supply & leave it partly closed to
reduce the incoming flow?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Andy Dingley wrote:
Is it traditional to use the half-hour gap between visiting relatives
to re-plumb toilets over Christmas? 8-(

Seems like it. Except in my case its rewiring some lights.
SNIP
Now it's all back together and leak-free, but seems to have trouble
with the flush itself - the syphon doesn't stop syphoning. My
suspicion is that the fast-filling Fluidmaster simply starts to re-
fill the cistern before it's fully emptied and breaks the syphon.
After all, Delchem's design is based around a flapper valve rather
than a syphon. Is there anything I can do to regulate this? At present
I've just left the supply ball valve at 45o, which isn't quite ideal.

Could you install a service valve on the supply & leave it partly closed to
reduce the incoming flow?



Nothing in the Fluidmaster itself I suppose? ISTR a flow reducer plastic
thing that you reversed for mains pressure.
I know someone who was well chuffed over Xmas when he changed syphon,
donut etc without leaks, only to find the screw holes in the the cistern
didn't quite line up when he'd finished. No way of getting the angle to
drill new ones so Velcro will have to do for now.

stuart noble wrote:
SNIP
I know someone who was well chuffed over Xmas when he changed syphon,
donut etc without leaks, only to find the screw holes in the the
cistern didn't quite line up when he'd finished.

Did he replace the cistern then? How come the holes moved? :-)

I have had holes shrink before now. Measured a shed window frame & when I
returned with the glass the hole had shrunk by 100mm in one dimension. :-(


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
stuart noble wrote:
SNIP
I know someone who was well chuffed over Xmas when he changed syphon,
donut etc without leaks, only to find the screw holes in the the
cistern didn't quite line up when he'd finished.

Did he replace the cistern then? How come the holes moved? :-)


I think the new metal plate had a slightly raised section, so no amount
of tightening of the wing nuts would align the holes

On 28 Dec, 12:23, stuart noble wrote:

Could you install a service valve on the supply & leave it partly closed to
reduce the incoming flow?

There's already such a valve, and this is what I've done temporarily.
Can't say I regard it as a good long-term fix though,

Nothing in the Fluidmaster itself I suppose? ISTR a flow reducer plastic
thing that you reversed for mains pressure.

Can't see anything like that - there's a simple scale filter, which is
in place.

Owain wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
I have had holes shrink before now. Measured a shed window frame &
when I returned with the glass the hole had shrunk by 100mm in one
dimension. :-(

Would have been worse if the hole had grown.

Or did you not have a glass cutting thingmy?

I took it back to be trimmed. I am to glass cutting what Colonel Custer was
to Indian fighting.

Don't ask about the hole for the fan in our kitchen window.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Andy Dingley wrote:
On 28 Dec, 12:23, stuart noble wrote:

Could you install a service valve on the supply & leave it partly
closed to reduce the incoming flow?

There's already such a valve, and this is what I've done temporarily.
Can't say I regard it as a good long-term fix though,

Can't see a long term problem with it.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Andy Dingley wrote:
On 28 Dec, 12:23, stuart noble wrote:

Could you install a service valve on the supply & leave it partly
closed to reduce the incoming flow?
There's already such a valve, and this is what I've done temporarily.
Can't say I regard it as a good long-term fix though,

Can't see a long term problem with it.


I have been thinking about precisely this recently. (Replaced kitchen
mixer - and changed a leaking under-the-sink stopcock for a full bore
valve. Flow and pressure seem too high now on cold water.)

Thought that there might be a problem with scale building up on one side
of the valve (inside, that is). Would the slower flow just past the
partially open valve tend to scale up? Or not? Tossed the ideas back and
forth in my head - and couldn't decide. Does anyone have experience of
doing this, long term, in a very hard water area?

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

Rod wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Andy Dingley wrote:
On 28 Dec, 12:23, stuart noble wrote:

Could you install a service valve on the supply & leave it partly
closed to reduce the incoming flow?
There's already such a valve, and this is what I've done temporarily.
Can't say I regard it as a good long-term fix though,

Can't see a long term problem with it.


I have been thinking about precisely this recently. (Replaced kitchen
mixer - and changed a leaking under-the-sink stopcock for a full bore
valve. Flow and pressure seem too high now on cold water.)

Thought that there might be a problem with scale building up on one side
of the valve (inside, that is). Would the slower flow just past the
partially open valve tend to scale up? Or not? Tossed the ideas back and
forth in my head - and couldn't decide. Does anyone have experience of
doing this, long term, in a very hard water area?


Did it in an upstairs toilet to stop the thud when the valve shut off.
The valve is turned to about 25% on, and has been working just fine for
the last 3 years or so.