Bit of a head-scratcher for the panel:

I'm currently fitting out our en-suite, with a vanity unit thingy: see
http://tinyurl.com/42y7cm (or
http://img802.mytextgraphics.com/photolava/2008/04/28/bathroom-ffl1d0cc.jpeg)

Worktop and upstand is standard gloss laminated chipboard, about 1.7m
long (neither are fixed in position yet). Problem is that the wall on
the right is quite badly dished, which means there's a large gap behind
the upstand: see http://tinyurl.com/542dg8 (or
http://img801.mytextgraphics.com/photolava/2008/04/28/dished-ffl1gwcg.jpeg

The gap is 10mm at the widest point; the total length of the 'dished'
section is about 800mm. So what to do?

Ideally the wall level needs building up of course, but my plastering
skills aren't up to it and the work was done a long time ago so I have
no recourse to the guy who did it. (Anyway, it actually looks fine
until you put a straight edge to it!)

What I'd like to do is fix the upstand in position with the gap behind
reduced to 5mm - with the right filler, that will look OK, doesn't cause
the other end to bow outwards, and doesn't require *too* much bending
force. I don't want visible screw heads through the upstand, which I
suppose means it's No More Nails' time... but will that cope with the
tensile force? Is there a preferred type to use? Or could I pre-bend
the upstand I wonder...

Any thoughts on any of this would be most welcome.

Thanks
David

Lobster wrote:
Bit of a head-scratcher for the panel:

I'm currently fitting out our en-suite, with a vanity unit thingy: see
http://tinyurl.com/42y7cm (or
http://img802.mytextgraphics.com/photolava/2008/04/28/bathroom-ffl1d0cc.jpeg)

Worktop and upstand is standard gloss laminated chipboard, about 1.7m
long (neither are fixed in position yet). Problem is that the wall on
the right is quite badly dished, which means there's a large gap
behind the upstand: see http://tinyurl.com/542dg8 (or
http://img801.mytextgraphics.com/photolava/2008/04/28/dished-ffl1gwcg.jpeg

The gap is 10mm at the widest point; the total length of the 'dished'
section is about 800mm. So what to do?

Ideally the wall level needs building up of course, but my plastering
skills aren't up to it and the work was done a long time ago so I have
no recourse to the guy who did it. (Anyway, it actually looks fine
until you put a straight edge to it!)

What I'd like to do is fix the upstand in position with the gap behind
reduced to 5mm - with the right filler, that will look OK, doesn't
cause the other end to bow outwards, and doesn't require *too* much
bending force. I don't want visible screw heads through the upstand,
which I suppose means it's No More Nails' time... but will that cope
with the tensile force? Is there a preferred type to use? Or could
I pre-bend the upstand I wonder...

Any thoughts on any of this would be most welcome.

Could you not fix the upstand by screwing from underneath through the
worktop?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Lobster wrote:

Bit of a head-scratcher for the panel:

I'm currently fitting out our en-suite, with a vanity unit thingy: see
http://tinyurl.com/42y7cm (or
http://img802.mytextgraphics.com/photolava/2008/04/28/bathroom-ffl1d0cc.jpeg)

Worktop and upstand is standard gloss laminated chipboard, about 1.7m
long (neither are fixed in position yet). Problem is that the wall on
the right is quite badly dished, which means there's a large gap
behind the upstand: see http://tinyurl.com/542dg8 (or
http://img801.mytextgraphics.com/photolava/2008/04/28/dished-ffl1gwcg.jpeg

The gap is 10mm at the widest point; the total length of the 'dished'
section is about 800mm. So what to do?

Ideally the wall level needs building up of course, but my plastering
skills aren't up to it and the work was done a long time ago so I have
no recourse to the guy who did it. (Anyway, it actually looks fine
until you put a straight edge to it!)

What I'd like to do is fix the upstand in position with the gap behind
reduced to 5mm - with the right filler, that will look OK, doesn't
cause the other end to bow outwards, and doesn't require *too* much
bending force. I don't want visible screw heads through the upstand,
which I suppose means it's No More Nails' time... but will that cope
with the tensile force? Is there a preferred type to use? Or could
I pre-bend the upstand I wonder...

Any thoughts on any of this would be most welcome.

Thanks
David


I wouldn't recommend trying to bend the upstand. Are you tiling above it? If
so, you can lose the gap with a generous quantity of tile cement - or build
it up with bonding plaster or filler first - the surface under the tiles
doesn't have to be wonderful!
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

Roger Mills wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Lobster wrote:

Bit of a head-scratcher for the panel:

I'm currently fitting out our en-suite, with a vanity unit thingy: see
http://tinyurl.com/42y7cm (or
http://img802.mytextgraphics.com/photolava/2008/04/28/bathroom-ffl1d0cc.jpeg)

Worktop and upstand is standard gloss laminated chipboard, about 1.7m
long (neither are fixed in position yet). Problem is that the wall on
the right is quite badly dished, which means there's a large gap
behind the upstand: see http://tinyurl.com/542dg8 (or
http://img801.mytextgraphics.com/photolava/2008/04/28/dished-ffl1gwcg.jpeg

The gap is 10mm at the widest point; the total length of the 'dished'
section is about 800mm. So what to do?

Ideally the wall level needs building up of course, but my plastering
skills aren't up to it and the work was done a long time ago so I have
no recourse to the guy who did it. (Anyway, it actually looks fine
until you put a straight edge to it!)

What I'd like to do is fix the upstand in position with the gap behind
reduced to 5mm - with the right filler, that will look OK, doesn't
cause the other end to bow outwards, and doesn't require *too* much
bending force. I don't want visible screw heads through the upstand,
which I suppose means it's No More Nails' time... but will that cope
with the tensile force? Is there a preferred type to use? Or could
I pre-bend the upstand I wonder...

Any thoughts on any of this would be most welcome.

Thanks
David


I wouldn't recommend trying to bend the upstand. Are you tiling above it? If
so, you can lose the gap with a generous quantity of tile cement - or build
it up with bonding plaster or filler first - the surface under the tiles
doesn't have to be wonderful!

Actually the easiest way to flatten out a small section of wall is MDF
sheet.Fixed by any means - battens, bonding plaster etc etc..then tile
over. Or paint it.

If you can mange the edge where it finishes it works well. However dont
plaster up to it and expect the join not to crack. need skimming OVER nd
scrim tape at the join..i.e. plaster up to it, tape, then skim.

On Mon, 06 Oct 2008 19:40:14 +0000, Lobster wrote:

Bit of a head-scratcher for the panel:

I'm currently fitting out our en-suite, with a vanity unit thingy: see
http://tinyurl.com/42y7cm (or
http://img802.mytextgraphics.com/photolava/2008/04/28/bathroom-ffl1d0cc.jpeg)

Worktop and upstand is standard gloss laminated chipboard, about 1.7m
long (neither are fixed in position yet). Problem is that the wall on
the right is quite badly dished, which means there's a large gap behind
the upstand: see http://tinyurl.com/542dg8 (or
http://img801.mytextgraphics.com/photolava/2008/04/28/dished-ffl1gwcg.jpeg

The gap is 10mm at the widest point; the total length of the 'dished'
section is about 800mm. So what to do?

Ideally the wall level needs building up of course, but my plastering
skills aren't up to it and the work was done a long time ago so I have
no recourse to the guy who did it. (Anyway, it actually looks fine
until you put a straight edge to it!)

What I'd like to do is fix the upstand in position with the gap behind
reduced to 5mm - with the right filler, that will look OK, doesn't cause
the other end to bow outwards, and doesn't require *too* much bending
force. I don't want visible screw heads through the upstand, which I
suppose means it's No More Nails' time... but will that cope with the
tensile force? Is there a preferred type to use? Or could I pre-bend
the upstand I wonder...

Any thoughts on any of this would be most welcome.

Thanks
David

=========================================
Careful use of a few of these might be the answer, possibly with a couple
of screws out of sight:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/11423/...7mm-Pack-of-10

http://tinyurl.com/4vvj9r

Cic.

--
==========================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
==========================================

Cicero wrote:
On Mon, 06 Oct 2008 19:40:14 +0000, Lobster wrote:

Bit of a head-scratcher for the panel:

I'm currently fitting out our en-suite, with a vanity unit thingy: see
http://tinyurl.com/42y7cm (or
http://img802.mytextgraphics.com/photolava/2008/04/28/bathroom-ffl1d0cc.jpeg)

Worktop and upstand is standard gloss laminated chipboard, about 1.7m
long (neither are fixed in position yet). Problem is that the wall on
the right is quite badly dished, which means there's a large gap behind
the upstand: see http://tinyurl.com/542dg8 (or
http://img801.mytextgraphics.com/photolava/2008/04/28/dished-ffl1gwcg.jpeg

The gap is 10mm at the widest point; the total length of the 'dished'
section is about 800mm. So what to do?

Ideally the wall level needs building up of course, but my plastering
skills aren't up to it and the work was done a long time ago so I have
no recourse to the guy who did it. (Anyway, it actually looks fine
until you put a straight edge to it!)

What I'd like to do is fix the upstand in position with the gap behind
reduced to 5mm - with the right filler, that will look OK, doesn't cause
the other end to bow outwards, and doesn't require *too* much bending
force. I don't want visible screw heads through the upstand, which I
suppose means it's No More Nails' time... but will that cope with the
tensile force? Is there a preferred type to use? Or could I pre-bend
the upstand I wonder...

Any thoughts on any of this would be most welcome.

Thanks
David

=========================================
Careful use of a few of these might be the answer, possibly with a couple
of screws out of sight:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/11423/...7mm-Pack-of-10

http://tinyurl.com/4vvj9r

Cic.


Can't you just chop out the wall where the upstand is going? If the wall
above it protrudes, so what?

stuart noble wrote:
Cicero wrote:
On Mon, 06 Oct 2008 19:40:14 +0000, Lobster wrote:

Bit of a head-scratcher for the panel:

I'm currently fitting out our en-suite, with a vanity unit thingy:
see http://tinyurl.com/42y7cm (or
http://img802.mytextgraphics.com/photolava/2008/04/28/bathroom-ffl1d0cc.jpeg)


Worktop and upstand is standard gloss laminated chipboard, about 1.7m
long (neither are fixed in position yet). Problem is that the wall
on the right is quite badly dished, which means there's a large gap
behind the upstand: see http://tinyurl.com/542dg8 (or
http://img801.mytextgraphics.com/photolava/2008/04/28/dished-ffl1gwcg.jpeg


The gap is 10mm at the widest point; the total length of the 'dished'
section is about 800mm. So what to do?

Ideally the wall level needs building up of course, but my plastering
skills aren't up to it and the work was done a long time ago so I
have no recourse to the guy who did it. (Anyway, it actually looks
fine until you put a straight edge to it!)

What I'd like to do is fix the upstand in position with the gap
behind reduced to 5mm - with the right filler, that will look OK,
doesn't cause the other end to bow outwards, and doesn't require
*too* much bending force. I don't want visible screw heads through
the upstand, which I suppose means it's No More Nails' time... but
will that cope with the tensile force? Is there a preferred type to
use? Or could I pre-bend the upstand I wonder...

Any thoughts on any of this would be most welcome.

Thanks
David

=========================================
Careful use of a few of these might be the answer, possibly with a couple
of screws out of sight:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/11423/...7mm-Pack-of-10


http://tinyurl.com/4vvj9r

Cic.


Can't you just chop out the wall where the upstand is going? If the wall
above it protrudes, so what?
depends if your happy with a bodged by a cowboy look

--
Kevin R
Reply address works

Lobster wrote:

What I'd like to do is fix the upstand in position with the gap behind
reduced to 5mm - with the right filler, that will look OK, doesn't cause
the other end to bow outwards, and doesn't require *too* much bending
force.
Any thoughts on any of this would be most welcome.

Would it not be best to scribe then cut/sand the edge of the worktop to
the wall rather than try to fill a gap?
Place the work top up against the wall and then take a piece of
timber about 1 inch wide and 1 or 2 inches long -depending on how uneven
the wall is- and fix a pencil to the end by drilling a small hole and
inserting the pencil into it, making sure that it is a tight fit.

Using the wall as the template you then place the end of the piece of
timber without the pencil against wall and slowly drag it along the wall
making sure that the pencil point on the other end is in contact with
the surface of the work top, as you scribe along the pencil will mark
the outline of the uneven surface on the worktop. Then cut/sand to this
line and the worktop should fit perfectly to the wall.
Or have I totally misunderstood the problem?

soup wrote:
Lobster wrote:

What I'd like to do is fix the upstand in position with the gap behind
reduced to 5mm - with the right filler, that will look OK, doesn't
cause the other end to bow outwards, and doesn't require *too* much
bending force. Any thoughts on any of this would be most welcome.

Would it not be best to scribe then cut/sand the edge of the worktop to
the wall rather than try to fill a gap?
Place the work top up against the wall and then take a piece of timber
about 1 inch wide and 1 or 2 inches long -depending on how uneven the
wall is- and fix a pencil to the end by drilling a small hole and
inserting the pencil into it, making sure that it is a tight fit.

Using the wall as the template you then place the end of the piece of
timber without the pencil against wall and slowly drag it along the wall
making sure that the pencil point on the other end is in contact with
the surface of the work top, as you scribe along the pencil will mark
the outline of the uneven surface on the worktop. Then cut/sand to this
line and the worktop should fit perfectly to the wall.
Or have I totally misunderstood the problem?
its not the worktop thats the problem its the splash back/upstand
http://img801.mytextgraphics.com/pho...-ffl1gwcg.jpeg

--
Kevin R
Reply address works

Kevin wrote:

its not the worktop thats the problem its the splash back/upstand
http://img801.mytextgraphics.com/pho...-ffl1gwcg.jpeg

Ah right! Would kerf cuts (not right through the top obviously) not
reduce bending stresses, apart from that I am out of ideas?
Unless screws were used, with cups etc screws can be decorative, but
the OP has stated he? doesn't want to use screws.

Kevin wrote:
stuart noble wrote:
Cicero wrote:
On Mon, 06 Oct 2008 19:40:14 +0000, Lobster wrote:

Bit of a head-scratcher for the panel:

I'm currently fitting out our en-suite, with a vanity unit thingy:
see http://tinyurl.com/42y7cm (or
http://img802.mytextgraphics.com/photolava/2008/04/28/bathroom-ffl1d0cc.jpeg)


Worktop and upstand is standard gloss laminated chipboard, about
1.7m long (neither are fixed in position yet). Problem is that the
wall on the right is quite badly dished, which means there's a large
gap behind the upstand: see http://tinyurl.com/542dg8 (or
http://img801.mytextgraphics.com/photolava/2008/04/28/dished-ffl1gwcg.jpeg


The gap is 10mm at the widest point; the total length of the
'dished' section is about 800mm. So what to do?

Ideally the wall level needs building up of course, but my
plastering skills aren't up to it and the work was done a long time
ago so I have no recourse to the guy who did it. (Anyway, it
actually looks fine until you put a straight edge to it!)

What I'd like to do is fix the upstand in position with the gap
behind reduced to 5mm - with the right filler, that will look OK,
doesn't cause the other end to bow outwards, and doesn't require
*too* much bending force. I don't want visible screw heads through
the upstand, which I suppose means it's No More Nails' time... but
will that cope with the tensile force? Is there a preferred type to
use? Or could I pre-bend the upstand I wonder...

Any thoughts on any of this would be most welcome.

Thanks
David

=========================================
Careful use of a few of these might be the answer, possibly with a
couple
of screws out of sight:

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/11423/...7mm-Pack-of-10


http://tinyurl.com/4vvj9r

Cic.


Can't you just chop out the wall where the upstand is going? If the
wall above it protrudes, so what?
depends if your happy with a bodged by a cowboy look


One thing's for sure, the upstand has to be straight. Trying to make it
follow the wall in some way would be a bodge, and almost certainly
wouldn't work either..

soup wrote:
Kevin wrote:

its not the worktop thats the problem its the splash back/upstand
http://img801.mytextgraphics.com/pho...-ffl1gwcg.jpeg

Ah right! Would kerf cuts (not right through the top obviously) not
reduce bending stresses, apart from that I am out of ideas?
Unless screws were used, with cups etc screws can be decorative, but
the OP has stated he? doesn't want to use screws.

At risk of repeating myself, you could use them from underneath.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Lobster wrote:
Bit of a head-scratcher for the panel:

I'm currently fitting out our en-suite, with a vanity unit thingy: see
http://tinyurl.com/42y7cm (or
http://img802.mytextgraphics.com/photolava/2008/04/28/bathroom-ffl1d0cc.jpeg)


Worktop and upstand is standard gloss laminated chipboard, about 1.7m
long (neither are fixed in position yet). Problem is that the wall on
the right is quite badly dished, which means there's a large gap behind
the upstand: see http://tinyurl.com/542dg8 (or
http://img801.mytextgraphics.com/photolava/2008/04/28/dished-ffl1gwcg.jpeg


The gap is 10mm at the widest point; the total length of the 'dished'
section is about 800mm. So what to do?

Ideally the wall level needs building up of course, but my plastering
skills aren't up to it and the work was done a long time ago so I have
no recourse to the guy who did it. (Anyway, it actually looks fine
until you put a straight edge to it!)

What I'd like to do is fix the upstand in position with the gap behind
reduced to 5mm - with the right filler, that will look OK, doesn't cause
the other end to bow outwards, and doesn't require *too* much bending
force. I don't want visible screw heads through the upstand, which I
suppose means it's No More Nails' time... but will that cope with the
tensile force? Is there a preferred type to use? Or could I pre-bend
the upstand I wonder...

Any thoughts on any of this would be most welcome.

Thanks a lot for all the tips - really helpful.

I'm convinced that bending it slightly is the way forward, not for
bodging reasons but because having tried it out 'dry' - I can 'absorb'
most of the gap behind it without being able to notice the bend at all.
Any other method would I'm sure be very obvious. It's quite shallow,
so any attempt at profiling the rear face would look crap I think. No
tiles above; just a few inches of painted plaster below a full-length
mirror.

Screwing from beneath sounds possible; depends on whether I can get long
enough screws in there to prevent the top of the upstand tipping forward
under the strain from the bend. But in conjunction with the kerfing
idea... ;-)

Failing that the Screwfix brackets look a distinct possibility - never
seen those before. The wall is a stud partition, so I could hack back
the plasterboard and mount a couple of those on studs out of sight.

I won't get back on to this till next week, but will report back with
the outcome!

Thanks
David

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Lobster wrote:


I'm convinced that bending it slightly is the way forward, not for
bodging reasons but because having tried it out 'dry' - I can 'absorb'
most of the gap behind it without being able to notice the bend at
all. Any other method would I'm sure be very obvious. It's quite
shallow, so any attempt at profiling the rear face would look crap I
think. No tiles above; just a few inches of painted plaster below a
full-length mirror.


I hope you're not planning to bend the mirror to fit the non-flat wall?!



Failing that the Screwfix brackets look a distinct possibility - never
seen those before. The wall is a stud partition, so I could hack back
the plasterboard and mount a couple of those on studs out of sight.


You can get some concealed fixing which are smaller than that. I used them
to fix a headboard to the wall. I have one in my hand at the momemt. It is a
metal plate about 42x15x3 with rounded ends. There is a countersunk
screw-hole either end, and a large keyhole-shaped hole in the middle. You
recess the plates into the back of the item to be fixed, and put screws in
the wall with their heads protruding. You then offer the itm up to the wall
so that the large part of the keyhole goes over the screw, and then push it
firmly downwards. I'm sure there's a proper name for them, but I don't know
what it is!

Alternatively, since it's a stud partition, can you temporarily remove some
plasterboard on the other side, and screw into the *back* of the upstand?
[You'd need some wood or something on the back of the plasterboard to
reinforce it].
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!