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Default Gate Valves

All of the gate valves (3) in my hot tank cupboard appear to be stuck/
seized open. Does anyone have any tips/ tricks for freeing them?

Thanks


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In article ,
Jen D wrote:
All of the gate valves (3) in my hot tank cupboard appear to be stuck/
seized open. Does anyone have any tips/ tricks for freeing them?


Bite the bullet and replace them with full bore valves. These gate valves
never seem to work when you need them - and never shut off the water
completely anyway.

So saying some penetrating fluid down the spindle a few times over a day
or so then brute force should free it.

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Default Gate Valves

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

Bite the bullet and replace them with full bore valves. These gate valves
never seem to work when you need them - and never shut off the water
completely anyway.



Having replaced gate valves in my last three houses, I see what you
mean. However, I have replaced them each time with gate valves. I
just make sure that they will work by operating them all twice a year.

Not operating them guarantees that they won't work when you need them.

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Default Gate Valves

On Fri, 29 Aug 2008 15:55:01 GMT, "Jen D"
wrote:

All of the gate valves (3) in my hot tank cupboard appear to be stuck/
seized open. Does anyone have any tips/ tricks for freeing them?

Thanks

They were crap from the day they were put in. Drain the system and
replace tham with full bore quarter turn lever valves. They perform
brilliantly and actually work as well.

Screwfix Full Bore Lever Ball Valve 22mm £4.99

You will never regret it.

(You may find you do not even have to change the olives over and the
new will be a direct replacement for the old.)
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Default Gate Valves

On Fri, 29 Aug 2008 17:32:14 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

So saying some penetrating fluid down the spindle a few times over a day
or so then brute force should free it.


Plus Gas being the best to use *not* WD40. Diesel is reported to be good
as well but a bit niffy for in the house and may well hang around in the
airing cupboard making your sheets and towels smell of diesel. B-) WD40
is also a bit niffy as well.

Other wise it's replacement time, gate valves are OK but they do need to
be fully closed, fully opened, fully closed, fully opened and then closed
1/4 to 1/2 a turn once or twice a year to ensure they don't seize and
stand a chance of shutting off completely when required.

Full bore ball valves are much more relaible and easier to operate. Note
ordinary "isolating" ball valves are not full bore.

--
Cheers
Dave.





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Default Gate Valves

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
EricP wrote:


Screwfix Full Bore Lever Ball Valve 22mm £4.99

You will never regret it.

(You may find you do not even have to change the olives over and the
new will be a direct replacement for the old.)


But check carefully before trying it. ISTR that the compression nuts on SF
22mm full bore valves have a finer thread than many other 22mm compression
fittings.
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Roger
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Default Gate Valves

On Aug 29, 7:18 pm, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:
On Fri, 29 Aug 2008 17:32:14 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
So saying some penetrating fluid down the spindle a few times over a day
or so then brute force should free it.


Plus Gas being the best to use *not* WD40.


Seek out the liquid form rather than the aerosol too. Easier to apply
(well, maybe not upwards) and the can lasts longer as it's better
targeted.

Paul.
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