As I said in an earlier post part of the lath and plaster ceiling in the
hallway has come down. Having a careful look at the rest it's not too
brilliant either - not surprising given it's over 100 years old. It covers
underneath the stairs to the first floor and half landing, then up to the
main landing - along that and then across and up to a further half
landing, and I think I might as well replace the lot. I'm thinking to get
as true a surface as I can with plasterboard before having it
professionally skimmed I'll remove the laths too. Any comments?

Remembering Lidl had plasterboard supports earlier this week I nipped out
hoping they still had them - and they did. Look excellent value at under a
tenner each - nicely made. Load 80 kg. Strange instructions - do not work
under the supported whatever. ;-)

--


Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sat, 23 Aug 2008 00:34:33 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

As I said in an earlier post part of the lath and plaster ceiling in the
hallway has come down. Having a careful look at the rest it's not too
brilliant either - not surprising given it's over 100 years old. It covers
underneath the stairs to the first floor and half landing, then up to the
main landing - along that and then across and up to a further half
landing, and I think I might as well replace the lot. I'm thinking to get
as true a surface as I can with plasterboard before having it
professionally skimmed I'll remove the laths too. Any comments?

Remembering Lidl had plasterboard supports earlier this week I nipped out
hoping they still had them - and they did. Look excellent value at under a
tenner each - nicely made. Load 80 kg. Strange instructions - do not work
under the supported whatever. ;-)

Removing a lot of L+P will (probably) be (1) A messy, dusty job and
you'll have a lot of waste to shift ,(2) a lot of nails to remove as
L+P was very "nails intensive"

What you could consider is nailing or screwing battens ( not battons
:-) )across the joists at appropriate centres( relative to the size
of boards you intend using ) if you can determine where they are then
fixing plasterboard with drywall screws to those battens .

On Aug 23, 12:34*am, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
As I said in an earlier post part of the lath and plaster ceiling in the
hallway has come down. Having a careful look at the rest it's not too
brilliant either - not surprising given it's over 100 years old. It covers
underneath the stairs to the first floor and half landing, then up to the
main landing - along that and then across and up to a further half
landing, and I think I might as well replace the lot. I'm thinking to get
as true a surface as I can with plasterboard before having it
professionally skimmed I'll remove the laths too. Any comments?

Remembering Lidl had plasterboard supports earlier this week I nipped out
hoping they still had them - and they did. Look excellent value at under a
tenner each - nicely made. Load 80 kg. Strange instructions - do not work
under the supported whatever. ;-)

The usual method is to pour diluted pva on top of the ceiling and prop
it up a few days while it sets.

L&P removal makes the mess from hell out of everything, and you'll
need a full redec. Plus you'll need t clear everything out first
etc... not a lotta contest really. Plus L&P ceilings give better
noiseproofing than PB.


NT

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
As I said in an earlier post part of the lath and plaster ceiling in the
hallway has come down. Having a careful look at the rest it's not too
brilliant either - not surprising given it's over 100 years old. It covers
underneath the stairs to the first floor and half landing, then up to the
main landing - along that and then across and up to a further half
landing, and I think I might as well replace the lot. I'm thinking to get
as true a surface as I can with plasterboard before having it
professionally skimmed I'll remove the laths too. Any comments?

You mean pull the entire ceiling down over the whole hallway to expose
the joists? If so, a job to be avoided at all costs unless you want to
be cleaning dust out of your every orifice for the rest of the year...

David

Lobster wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
As I said in an earlier post part of the lath and plaster ceiling in the
hallway has come down. Having a careful look at the rest it's not too
brilliant either - not surprising given it's over 100 years old. It
covers
underneath the stairs to the first floor and half landing, then up to the
main landing - along that and then across and up to a further half
landing, and I think I might as well replace the lot. I'm thinking to get
as true a surface as I can with plasterboard before having it
professionally skimmed I'll remove the laths too. Any comments?

You mean pull the entire ceiling down over the whole hallway to expose
the joists? If so, a job to be avoided at all costs unless you want to
be cleaning dust out of your every orifice for the rest of the year...

David

I'd put some heavy duty lining paper up to hold it in place. Anything to
avoid lath and plaster removal!
If you do remove it, try and do the whole thing in a day (no matter how
many mates you have to enlist). Clearing up once is bad enough

In article ,
Lobster wrote:
As I said in an earlier post part of the lath and plaster ceiling in
the hallway has come down. Having a careful look at the rest it's not
too brilliant either - not surprising given it's over 100 years old.
It covers underneath the stairs to the first floor and half landing,
then up to the main landing - along that and then across and up to a
further half landing, and I think I might as well replace the lot. I'm
thinking to get as true a surface as I can with plasterboard before
having it professionally skimmed I'll remove the laths too. Any
comments?

You mean pull the entire ceiling down over the whole hallway to expose
the joists? If so, a job to be avoided at all costs unless you want to
be cleaning dust out of your every orifice for the rest of the year...

Already cleared up the large chunk that came down and it wasn't too bad. I
have a large industrial vacuum. However, the last thing I want is to
repair that section, redecorate, and have it happen somewhere else later.

--
*The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
wrote:
On Sat, 23 Aug 2008 00:34:33 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

As I said in an earlier post part of the lath and plaster ceiling in
the hallway has come down. Having a careful look at the rest it's not
too brilliant either - not surprising given it's over 100 years old. It
covers underneath the stairs to the first floor and half landing, then
up to the main landing - along that and then across and up to a further
half landing, and I think I might as well replace the lot. I'm thinking
to get as true a surface as I can with plasterboard before having it
professionally skimmed I'll remove the laths too. Any comments?

Remembering Lidl had plasterboard supports earlier this week I nipped
out hoping they still had them - and they did. Look excellent value at
under a tenner each - nicely made. Load 80 kg. Strange instructions -
do not work under the supported whatever. ;-)

Removing a lot of L+P will (probably) be (1) A messy, dusty job and
you'll have a lot of waste to shift ,(2) a lot of nails to remove as L+P
was very "nails intensive"

Indeed. However the nails should be easy to remove as the heads won't be
flush with the joists.

What you could consider is nailing or screwing battens ( not battons
:-) )across the joists at appropriate centres( relative to the size
of boards you intend using ) if you can determine where they are then
fixing plasterboard with drywall screws to those battens .

Sticking plasterboard over the existing ceiling would look a bodge.
Because of the stairs you'd see the edge in several places - unlike a room
where there is a wall.

--
*We waste time, so you don't have to *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article
,
wrote:
On Aug 23, 12:34 am, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
As I said in an earlier post part of the lath and plaster ceiling in
the hallway has come down. Having a careful look at the rest it's not
too brilliant either - not surprising given it's over 100 years old.
It covers underneath the stairs to the first floor and half landing,
then up to the main landing - along that and then across and up to a
further half landing, and I think I might as well replace the lot. I'm
thinking to get as true a surface as I can with plasterboard before
having it professionally skimmed I'll remove the laths too. Any
comments?

Remembering Lidl had plasterboard supports earlier this week I nipped
out hoping they still had them - and they did. Look excellent value at
under a tenner each - nicely made. Load 80 kg. Strange instructions -
do not work under the supported whatever. ;-)

The usual method is to pour diluted pva on top of the ceiling and prop
it up a few days while it sets.

That would be fine if you could get to the other side - but you can't were
it's under the stairs.

L&P removal makes the mess from hell out of everything, and you'll need
a full redec.

That's on the cards anyway.

Plus you'll need t clear everything out first etc... not a lotta contest
really.

But I don't want problems later.

Plus L&P ceilings give better noiseproofing than PB.

Not really much of a consideration on hall and landings.

--
*Most people have more than the average number of legs*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Lobster wrote:
As I said in an earlier post part of the lath and plaster ceiling in
the hallway has come down. Having a careful look at the rest it's not
too brilliant either - not surprising given it's over 100 years old.
It covers underneath the stairs to the first floor and half landing,
then up to the main landing - along that and then across and up to a
further half landing, and I think I might as well replace the lot. I'm
thinking to get as true a surface as I can with plasterboard before
having it professionally skimmed I'll remove the laths too. Any
comments?

You mean pull the entire ceiling down over the whole hallway to expose
the joists? If so, a job to be avoided at all costs unless you want to
be cleaning dust out of your every orifice for the rest of the year...

Already cleared up the large chunk that came down and it wasn't too bad. I
have a large industrial vacuum. However, the last thing I want is to
repair that section, redecorate, and have it happen somewhere else later.


So rip it down and replace it. I would.

Seal all the doors into your rooms before you start. Downstairs ceilings are
not as bad as upstairs ones for the dirt and dust.

Adam

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article
,
wrote:
On Aug 23, 12:34 am, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
As I said in an earlier post part of the lath and plaster ceiling in
the hallway has come down. Having a careful look at the rest it's not
too brilliant either - not surprising given it's over 100 years old.
It covers underneath the stairs to the first floor and half landing,
then up to the main landing - along that and then across and up to a
further half landing, and I think I might as well replace the lot. I'm
thinking to get as true a surface as I can with plasterboard before
having it professionally skimmed I'll remove the laths too. Any
comments?

Remembering Lidl had plasterboard supports earlier this week I nipped
out hoping they still had them - and they did. Look excellent value at
under a tenner each - nicely made. Load 80 kg. Strange instructions -
do not work under the supported whatever. ;-)

The usual method is to pour diluted pva on top of the ceiling and prop
it up a few days while it sets.

That would be fine if you could get to the other side - but you can't were
it's under the stairs.

L&P removal makes the mess from hell out of everything, and you'll need
a full redec.

That's on the cards anyway.

Plus you'll need t clear everything out first etc... not a lotta contest
really.

But I don't want problems later.


I'm having to do something similar, and I'm pretty sure the architect
suggested battens over original l&p ceiling.

There is something that doesn't feel right about hanging that weight
(two ceilings) and that mess from joists.

That aside, there was an urban myth going around when I was faced with
this in my old London home - late 19C terrace - about anthrax in the l&p
mix. Just to cheer you up! In any case it's just the filthiest job.

Rob

In article ,
"Dave Plowman (News)" writes:
As I said in an earlier post part of the lath and plaster ceiling in the
hallway has come down. Having a careful look at the rest it's not too
brilliant either - not surprising given it's over 100 years old. It covers
underneath the stairs to the first floor and half landing, then up to the
main landing - along that and then across and up to a further half
landing, and I think I might as well replace the lot. I'm thinking to get
as true a surface as I can with plasterboard before having it
professionally skimmed I'll remove the laths too. Any comments?

If you have any fancy plaster coving you want to keep, leave the
laths up (carefully cutting through the plaster only) and fix
plasterboard through the laths to the joists. Chose plasterboard
thickness to correctly line up with the coving in this case, with
a couple of mm for skimming.

Note that the ceiling above the plaster may not be flat. In the
days of lath and plaster ceilings, it was the plasterer's job to
create a flat ceiling by varying the thickness of plaster. When
fitting plasterboard, you may need shims on the bottoms of some
joists to make it flat, depending on the age of the house.

You might want to have a chat to your plasterer before fitting
the boards. The way I prefer them fitted if I'm plastering is
to butt the board edges together if those edges are screwed to
the same timber, and to leave a 1/4" gap between board edges
which are not screwed along that edge to the same timber.
Plaster (ideally, bonding coat) is then forced through the 1/4"
gaps to bond the board edges, which you can't do as effectively
when butted together.

Of course, whilst the ceiling is dowm, review the provision of
lighting points, other mains wiring, phone, network, and any
other services you might want to stuff up there.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In article ,
ARWadworth wrote:
Already cleared up the large chunk that came down and it wasn't too
bad. I have a large industrial vacuum. However, the last thing I want
is to repair that section, redecorate, and have it happen somewhere
else later.


So rip it down and replace it. I would.

The more I think about it the more I'm convinced.

Seal all the doors into your rooms before you start. Downstairs ceilings
are not as bad as upstairs ones for the dirt and dust.

Anything with a roof void above tends to be bad news. Already went through
that with the bathroom years ago.

--
*Thank you. We're all refreshed and challenged by your unique point of view

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Rob wrote:
I'm having to do something similar, and I'm pretty sure the architect
suggested battens over original l&p ceiling.

That could work in a room where the ceiling meet walls all round - and you
don't mine losing some height. But with some parts of this one you can see
the edge - under the staircase etc - and it would look plain daft being a
couple of inches lower. Nor do I want to lose any height.

There is something that doesn't feel right about hanging that weight
(two ceilings) and that mess from joists.

Yes - it's a bodge whatever way you look at it.

That aside, there was an urban myth going around when I was faced with
this in my old London home - late 19C terrace - about anthrax in the l&p
mix. Just to cheer you up! In any case it's just the filthiest job.

I thought anthrax came from sheep and it was horsehair that was used to
reinforce plaster? Not that there's any sign of that in the part which
fell down.

Rob

--
*To be intoxicated is to feel sophisticated, but not be able to say it.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
If you have any fancy plaster coving you want to keep, leave the
laths up (carefully cutting through the plaster only) and fix
plasterboard through the laths to the joists. Chose plasterboard
thickness to correctly line up with the coving in this case, with
a couple of mm for skimming.

No coving in this part of the house.

Note that the ceiling above the plaster may not be flat. In the
days of lath and plaster ceilings, it was the plasterer's job to
create a flat ceiling by varying the thickness of plaster. When
fitting plasterboard, you may need shims on the bottoms of some
joists to make it flat, depending on the age of the house.

That's why I thought removing the laths would make it easier - the laths
on show after the fall look all over the place. The joists *must* be more
square since the floors are ok. And if I'm going to make a mess by
removing old plaster I might as well go the whole hog.

You might want to have a chat to your plasterer before fitting
the boards. The way I prefer them fitted if I'm plastering is
to butt the board edges together if those edges are screwed to
the same timber, and to leave a 1/4" gap between board edges
which are not screwed along that edge to the same timber.
Plaster (ideally, bonding coat) is then forced through the 1/4"
gaps to bond the board edges, which you can't do as effectively
when butted together.

OK - I'll remember that. Hopefully a plasterer recommended by a neighbour
will be round to advise on what he wants before I do the plasterboard.

Of course, whilst the ceiling is dowm, review the provision of
lighting points, other mains wiring, phone, network, and any
other services you might want to stuff up there.

It will allow a light in a place previously not practical. Everything
else is already catered for.

--
*This message has been ROT-13 encrypted twice for extra security *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sat, 23 Aug 2008 08:19:51 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

However, the last thing I want is to repair that section, redecorate,
and have it happen somewhere else later.

Have a (gentle!) tap around with the handle of a screwdriver. Do any other
bits sound hollow (blown)? If so it might be worth hastening their decent
to the floor.

I'm assuming the bit that came down was just the plaster leaving the laths
and broken knibs attached to the joists. If the laths have come down as
well I'd want to know why, Nail rot?

--
Cheers
Dave.

wrote:

What you could consider is nailing or screwing battens ( not battons
:-) )

What about batons, would they work?

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
If you have any fancy plaster coving you want to keep, leave the
laths up (carefully cutting through the plaster only) and fix
plasterboard through the laths to the joists. Chose plasterboard
thickness to correctly line up with the coving in this case, with
a couple of mm for skimming.

No coving in this part of the house.

Note that the ceiling above the plaster may not be flat. In the
days of lath and plaster ceilings, it was the plasterer's job to
create a flat ceiling by varying the thickness of plaster. When
fitting plasterboard, you may need shims on the bottoms of some
joists to make it flat, depending on the age of the house.

That's why I thought removing the laths would make it easier - the laths
on show after the fall look all over the place.

A now-retired joiner I know told me that his first job when he first
started work was to cut laths - it was routinely done by the apprentice
(in between making the tea) wielding a hatchet! So hardly surprising
that there's a bit of variation in thickness...

David

Steve Firth wrote:
wrote:

What you could consider is nailing or screwing battens ( not battons
:-) )

What about batons, would they work?

Nah, someone would be bound to cock things up if they were used.

David

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Rob wrote:
I'm having to do something similar, and I'm pretty sure the architect
suggested battens over original l&p ceiling.

That could work in a room where the ceiling meet walls all round - and you
don't mine losing some height. But with some parts of this one you can see
the edge - under the staircase etc - and it would look plain daft being a
couple of inches lower. Nor do I want to lose any height.

There is something that doesn't feel right about hanging that weight
(two ceilings) and that mess from joists.

Yes - it's a bodge whatever way you look at it.

That aside, there was an urban myth going around when I was faced with
this in my old London home - late 19C terrace - about anthrax in the l&p
mix. Just to cheer you up! In any case it's just the filthiest job.

I thought anthrax came from sheep and it was horsehair that was used to
reinforce plaster? Not that there's any sign of that in the part which
fell down.

Rob


Definitely can occur in horses. And lots of other animals.

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

On Aug 23, 8:28*am, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In article
,
* wrote:



On Aug 23, 12:34 am, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
As I said in an earlier post part of the lath and plaster ceiling in
the hallway has come down. Having a careful look at the rest it's not
too brilliant either - not surprising given it's over 100 years old.
It covers underneath the stairs to the first floor and half landing,
then up to the main landing - along that and then across and up to a
further half landing, and I think I might as well replace the lot. I'm
thinking to get as true a surface as I can with plasterboard before
having it professionally skimmed I'll remove the laths too. Any
comments?

Remembering Lidl had plasterboard supports earlier this week I nipped
out hoping they still had them - and they did. Look excellent value at
under a tenner each - nicely made. Load 80 kg. Strange instructions -
do not work under the supported whatever. ;-)
The usual method is to pour diluted pva on top of the ceiling and prop
it up a few days while it sets.

That would be fine if you could get to the other side - but you can't were
it's under the stairs.

not hard to drill some holes in the plaster - I've never tried doing
it from below, but it would be so much quicker and easier that I'd def
give that a go. Including some (lime) plaster in the mix would thicken
the slurry and enable it to not all falll out the hole, or the dilute
pva could be sprayed upwards under pressure.


L&P removal makes the mess from hell out of everything, and you'll need
a full redec.

That's on the cards anyway.

right. Still a lot of extra work tho.

Plus you'll need t clear everything out first etc... not a lotta contest
really.

But I don't want problems later.

PVAing is a permanent repair.


NT

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
ARWadworth wrote:
Already cleared up the large chunk that came down and it wasn't too
bad. I have a large industrial vacuum. However, the last thing I want
is to repair that section, redecorate, and have it happen somewhere
else later.


So rip it down and replace it. I would.

The more I think about it the more I'm convinced.


Well I have just watched the Tinsley towers not come down (search youtube
for Tinsley and then sort by date added)

You cannot make a bigger mess of things than that. Dust everywhere and the
North tower is still standing. I can see being late for work on Tuesday as
the M1 will be shut.

Adam

"ARWadworth" wrote in message
m...

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
ARWadworth wrote:
Already cleared up the large chunk that came down and it wasn't too
bad. I have a large industrial vacuum. However, the last thing I want
is to repair that section, redecorate, and have it happen somewhere
else later.


So rip it down and replace it. I would.

The more I think about it the more I'm convinced.


Well I have just watched the Tinsley towers not come down (search youtube
for Tinsley and then sort by date added)

You cannot make a bigger mess of things than that. Dust everywhere and the
North tower is still standing. I can see being late for work on Tuesday as
the M1 will be shut.

Adam

You could look at

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lK-0wfHutk

Adam

In article
,
wrote:
The usual method is to pour diluted pva on top of the ceiling and
prop it up a few days while it sets.

That would be fine if you could get to the other side - but you can't
were it's under the stairs.

not hard to drill some holes in the plaster - I've never tried doing it
from below, but it would be so much quicker and easier that I'd def give
that a go.

Drilling holes of a sufficient size in 'live' plaster is likely to end up
with holes of rather more than sufficient size. ;-) And you'd need lots
due to the joists. And filling them in so they don't show pretty time
consuming.

--
*Do infants enjoy infancy as much as adults enjoy adultery?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

ARWadworth wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
ARWadworth wrote:
Already cleared up the large chunk that came down and it wasn't too
bad. I have a large industrial vacuum. However, the last thing I want
is to repair that section, redecorate, and have it happen somewhere
else later.


So rip it down and replace it. I would.

The more I think about it the more I'm convinced.


Well I have just watched the Tinsley towers not come down (search
youtube for Tinsley and then sort by date added)

You cannot make a bigger mess of things than that. Dust everywhere and
the North tower is still standing. I can see being late for work on
Tuesday as the M1 will be shut.

Looking at the youtube videos they both seemed to be down - but as you
say, dust everywhere and you were there after all...!

David

On Aug 24, 9:39*am, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In article
,
* wrote:

The usual method is to pour diluted pva on top of the ceiling and
prop it up a few days while it sets.

That would be fine if you could get to the other side - but you can't
were it's under the stairs.
not hard to drill some holes in the plaster - I've never tried doing it
from below, but it would be so much quicker and easier that I'd def give
that a go.

Drilling holes of a sufficient size in 'live' plaster is likely to end up
with holes of rather more than sufficient size. ;-)

I guess I've not seen your plaster, so its hard to know from here.
Usually the plaster is still in a few large pieces, so is mostly ok,
its just coming away from the joists. I'm assuming you'd prop the
ceiling before drilling it (2x1s), and if a few holes break out its
not a biggie.

And you'd need lots
due to the joists.

Sure. But a sharp drill through plaster is like a knife through
butter.


And filling them in so they don't show pretty time
consuming.

Holes on a 2' matrix... quicker than the alternative I'd have though,
but ymmv - I'm no plasterer.

With no fancy coving you've got less to lose by ripping it down than
most L&P ceilings, so its just which is quicker.


NT

"Lobster" wrote in message
...
ARWadworth wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
ARWadworth wrote:
Already cleared up the large chunk that came down and it wasn't too
bad. I have a large industrial vacuum. However, the last thing I want
is to repair that section, redecorate, and have it happen somewhere
else later.


So rip it down and replace it. I would.

The more I think about it the more I'm convinced.


Well I have just watched the Tinsley towers not come down (search youtube
for Tinsley and then sort by date added)

You cannot make a bigger mess of things than that. Dust everywhere and
the North tower is still standing. I can see being late for work on
Tuesday as the M1 will be shut.

Looking at the youtube videos they both seemed to be down - but as you
say, dust everywhere and you were there after all...!

David

A third of the north tower was still standing when I left. It collapsed some
time later.

I have never seen a demolition apart from on TV before. It is one of the
most awesome things I have ever witnessed.

Adam

ARWadworth wrote:

You could look at

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lK-0wfHutk

Or

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9E2qkQdU_xg

It's also worth having a look at Traffic England for the news about the
state of the Tinsley Viaduct. At the moment the VMS signs are showing
"M1 Closed J32 to J34".

I'm incredibly pleased that I managed to slide out of a meeting in
Wakefield on Tuesday.

"Steve Firth" wrote in message
...
ARWadworth wrote:

You could look at

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lK-0wfHutk

Or

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9E2qkQdU_xg

It's also worth having a look at Traffic England for the news about the
state of the Tinsley Viaduct. At the moment the VMS signs are showing
"M1 Closed J32 to J34".

I'm incredibly pleased that I managed to slide out of a meeting in
Wakefield on Tuesday.

Better shots on some of these.

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/magazine/7561179.stm
http://www.bbc.co.uk/southyorkshire/..._gallery.shtml
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/s...re/7578266.stm
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk/7579513.stm

Adam

In article , Steve Firth
wrote:
ARWadworth wrote:

You could look at

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lK-0wfHutk

Or

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9E2qkQdU_xg

It's also worth having a look at Traffic England for the news about the
state of the Tinsley Viaduct. At the moment the VMS signs are showing
"M1 Closed J32 to J34".

I'm incredibly pleased that I managed to slide out of a meeting in
Wakefield on Tuesday.

Not much point in that 'go anywhere' AWD you boast about so much, then?

--
*With her marriage she got a new name and a dress.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

It's also worth having a look at Traffic England for the news about the
state of the Tinsley Viaduct. At the moment the VMS signs are showing
"M1 Closed J32 to J34".

I'm incredibly pleased that I managed to slide out of a meeting in
Wakefield on Tuesday.

Not much point in that 'go anywhere' AWD you boast about so much, then?

It makes the journey more pleasant than driving some buzzbox, and I
could always drive around the area, but then all the other displaced
drivers will do so as well. I can't recall 4x4 being helpful in
overcoming congestion, nor do I ever recall claiming that it did.

On Aug 24, 9:39*am, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In article
,
* wrote:

The usual method is to pour diluted pva on top of the ceiling and
prop it up a few days while it sets.

That would be fine if you could get to the other side - but you can't
were it's under the stairs.
not hard to drill some holes in the plaster - I've never tried doing it
from below, but it would be so much quicker and easier that I'd def give
that a go.

Drilling holes of a sufficient size in 'live' plaster is likely to end up
with holes of rather more than sufficient size. ;-) And you'd need lots
due to the joists. And filling them in so they don't show pretty time
consuming.

I was assuming you'd skim the lot either way. If so, hole filing is a
few seconds each at most.


NT

On Sun, 24 Aug 2008 14:15:10 +0100, Steve Firth wrote:

At the moment the VMS signs are showing "M1 Closed J32 to J34".

Saw a warning about on a traffic information sign on the A66 near Penrith
on Wednesday. Where is 32 to 34? I rarely go south of the M62...

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Liquorice wrote:

On Sun, 24 Aug 2008 14:15:10 +0100, Steve Firth wrote:

At the moment the VMS signs are showing "M1 Closed J32 to J34".

Saw a warning about on a traffic information sign on the A66 near Penrith
on Wednesday. Where is 32 to 34? I rarely go south of the M62...

Jn 32 is the M18 and 34 is North of Tinsley Viaduct, Meadowhall.