Is it OK to tile onto plasterboard in the bathroom. I have all PB walls and
want to tile from the exsisting two rows up to the ceiling in plain white
tiles.

Is it OK to do this?

Thanks Sam

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...
Is it OK to tile onto plasterboard in the bathroom. I have all PB walls
and want to tile from the exsisting two rows up to the ceiling in plain
white tiles.

Is it OK to do this?

Thanks Sam


Yes, I am refurbing my ensuite and built a false wall. Tiled straight onto
the plasterboard. Make sure you 'tank' your shower area though before
tiling otherwise you will be having problems later down the line.

Samantha Booth wrote:
Is it OK to tile onto plasterboard in the bathroom. I have all PB walls and
want to tile from the exsisting two rows up to the ceiling in plain white
tiles.

Is it OK to do this?

Yes. Is the new PB or has it already been finished with something?

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
Samantha Booth wrote:
Is it OK to tile onto plasterboard in the bathroom. I have all PB walls
and want to tile from the exsisting two rows up to the ceiling in plain
white tiles.

Is it OK to do this?

Yes. Is the new PB or has it already been finished with something?

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Its been painted with that bathroom paint thats all. i know I have to score
the paintwork first. Also i am buying a membrane from topps tiles that he
said is tanking and is 100% waterproof. Applied with a thin layer of tile
adhesive and then tile on top of it. He said I wouldnt have problems with
mould later on down the line but he was unsure about PB.

Is there a ""best"" ashesive to use? Or one to avoid?

Thanks Sam

In article ,
Samantha Booth wrote:
Is it OK to tile onto plasterboard in the bathroom. I have all PB walls
and want to tile from the exsisting two rows up to the ceiling in plain
white tiles.

Yup.

--
*Reality is a crutch for people who can't handle drugs.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Samantha Booth wrote:

Its been painted with that bathroom paint thats all. i know I have to score
the paintwork first. Also i am buying a membrane from topps tiles that he
said is tanking and is 100% waterproof. Applied with a thin layer of tile
adhesive and then tile on top of it. He said I wouldnt have problems with
mould later on down the line but he was unsure about PB.

If its painted and sound then I would just tile straight onto that.

Is there a ""best"" ashesive to use? Or one to avoid?

One of the proper adhesives (ready mixed) from a reputable brand like
Bal, Nicobond, Ardex etc. Avoid the "Fix N Grout" all in one products.

Use a decent powdered grout with a rubber faced grout float. Treat the
grout with a coat of Lithofin Grout Protector when done - will keep it
clean and white for years.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Samantha Booth wrote:
Is it OK to tile onto plasterboard in the bathroom. I have all PB walls and
want to tile from the exsisting two rows up to the ceiling in plain white
tiles.

Is it OK to do this?

Others will say no, but I can assure you its fine.

the only real danger is when someone kicks in the tiles at floor levels
and splashes water over the resultant mess, and leaves it. The
plasterboard will turn to porridge.

Likwise an unattended leak will result in a nasty mess.



Thanks Sam

Samantha Booth wrote:
"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
Samantha Booth wrote:
Is it OK to tile onto plasterboard in the bathroom. I have all PB walls
and want to tile from the exsisting two rows up to the ceiling in plain
white tiles.

Is it OK to do this?
Yes. Is the new PB or has it already been finished with something?

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Its been painted with that bathroom paint thats all. i know I have to score
the paintwork first. Also i am buying a membrane from topps tiles that he
said is tanking and is 100% waterproof. Applied with a thin layer of tile
adhesive and then tile on top of it. He said I wouldnt have problems with
mould later on down the line but he was unsure about PB.

Is there a ""best"" ashesive to use? Or one to avoid?


The nicest I have used in the ready mix style is evostik waterproof. Not
cheap. Use a separate grout as well. Bal is my favourite, others here
have equally good recommendations.


Thanks Sam

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...
Is it OK to tile onto plasterboard in the bathroom. I have all PB walls
and want to tile from the exsisting two rows up to the ceiling in plain
white tiles.

Is it OK to do this?

Thanks Sam


I have bought some Dunlop waterproof ready mixed grout from Screwfix. Also
bought a rubber pro float. Will be using BAL I think. Is that Lithofin Grout
Protector available on the high street? Also can anyone here recommend a
tile cutter, the plug in water cooled type please?

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...
Is it OK to tile onto plasterboard in the bathroom. I have all PB walls
and
want to tile from the exsisting two rows up to the ceiling in plain white
tiles.

Is it OK to do this?

Thanks Sam



Problem there sammy is...when you come to change the tiles? you will destroy
the plasterboard. ;-(

"George" wrote in message
m...

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...
Is it OK to tile onto plasterboard in the bathroom. I have all PB walls
and
want to tile from the exsisting two rows up to the ceiling in plain white
tiles.

Is it OK to do this?

Thanks Sam



Problem there sammy is...when you come to change the tiles? you will
destroy
the plasterboard. ;-(


hey if i am putting them on they are staying put lol i am welding them in
place

Samantha Booth wrote:
"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...
Is it OK to tile onto plasterboard in the bathroom. I have all PB walls
and want to tile from the exsisting two rows up to the ceiling in plain
white tiles.

Is it OK to do this?

Thanks Sam


I have bought some Dunlop waterproof ready mixed grout from Screwfix. Also
bought a rubber pro float. Will be using BAL I think. Is that Lithofin Grout
Protector available on the high street? Also can anyone here recommend a
tile cutter, the plug in water cooled type please?


They all work more or less.

I got the cheapest at the builders mercahnts. Its on its second cutting
disk, but I have done a lot of marble, sandstone, quartzite..and indeed
whatever took her fancy at the local tiling emporium ;-)

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Samantha Booth wrote:
"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...
Is it OK to tile onto plasterboard in the bathroom. I have all PB walls
and want to tile from the exsisting two rows up to the ceiling in plain
white tiles.

Is it OK to do this?

Thanks Sam


I have bought some Dunlop waterproof ready mixed grout from Screwfix.
Also bought a rubber pro float. Will be using BAL I think. Is that
Lithofin Grout Protector available on the high street? Also can anyone
here recommend a tile cutter, the plug in water cooled type please?
They all work more or less.

I got the cheapest at the builders mercahnts. Its on its second cutting
disk, but I have done a lot of marble, sandstone, quartzite..and indeed
whatever took her fancy at the local tiling emporium ;-)
Whats the other option other than the electric wet ones? I will have a few
tiles to cut, natural stone ones mainly

Samantha Booth wrote:

"George" wrote in message
m...

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...

Is it OK to tile onto plasterboard in the bathroom. I have all PB walls

and

want to tile from the exsisting two rows up to the ceiling in plain white
tiles.

Is it OK to do this?

Thanks Sam



Problem there sammy is...when you come to change the tiles? you will
destroy
the plasterboard. ;-(



hey if i am putting them on they are staying put lol i am welding them in
place

If you change you mind then post again on here about tiling over tiles.
Simple :-)

Dave

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
One of the proper adhesives (ready mixed) from a reputable brand like
Bal, Nicobond, Ardex etc. Avoid the "Fix N Grout" all in one products.

Homebase waterproof fix and grout is a very good adhesive. You don't, of
course, have to use it as a grout. It was on offer recently so good value.
Dunno if it still is.

--
*Be nice to your kids. They'll choose your nursing home.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
George wrote:
Is it OK to tile onto plasterboard in the bathroom. I have all PB walls
and
want to tile from the exsisting two rows up to the ceiling in plain white
tiles.

Is it OK to do this?

Thanks Sam



Problem there sammy is...when you come to change the tiles? you will
destroy the plasterboard. ;-(

If it's not got to be skimmed it's easy enough to replace.

--
* I like you. You remind me of when I was young and stupid

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Samantha Booth wrote:

Whats the other option other than the electric wet ones? I will have a
few tiles to cut, natural stone ones mainly

My Plasplugs one has been used for marble brick and sandstone. Even cut
some concrete slabs with it.

--
*(over a sketch of the titanic) "The boat sank - get over it

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
One of the proper adhesives (ready mixed) from a reputable brand like
Bal, Nicobond, Ardex etc. Avoid the "Fix N Grout" all in one products.

Homebase waterproof fix and grout is a very good adhesive. You don't, of
course, have to use it as a grout. It was on offer recently so good value.
Dunno if it still is.

Problem with most of them, is even if they stick well, they don't
control slip that well.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Samantha Booth wrote:

I have bought some Dunlop waterproof ready mixed grout from Screwfix. Also
bought a rubber pro float. Will be using BAL I think. Is that Lithofin Grout
Protector available on the high street? Also can anyone here recommend a

Not seen it on in the shops. Easy to order from here though:

http://www.extensive.co.uk/section.php/9/0

tile cutter, the plug in water cooled type please?

I quite like my plasplugs one...

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Samantha Booth wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Samantha Booth wrote:
"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...
Is it OK to tile onto plasterboard in the bathroom. I have all PB walls
and want to tile from the exsisting two rows up to the ceiling in plain
white tiles.

Is it OK to do this?

Thanks Sam

I have bought some Dunlop waterproof ready mixed grout from Screwfix.
Also bought a rubber pro float. Will be using BAL I think. Is that
Lithofin Grout Protector available on the high street? Also can anyone
here recommend a tile cutter, the plug in water cooled type please?
They all work more or less.

I got the cheapest at the builders mercahnts. Its on its second cutting
disk, but I have done a lot of marble, sandstone, quartzite..and indeed
whatever took her fancy at the local tiling emporium ;-)
Whats the other option other than the electric wet ones? I will have a few
tiles to cut, natural stone ones mainly

A decent Norton hard material disk in a small angle grinder with a
straight edge can work well on tricky tiles. However expect to pay £50
for the disk, and be prepared to do the cutting outside!)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Samantha Booth wrote:
"George" wrote in message
m...
"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...
Is it OK to tile onto plasterboard in the bathroom. I have all PB walls
and
want to tile from the exsisting two rows up to the ceiling in plain white
tiles.

Is it OK to do this?

Thanks Sam


Problem there sammy is...when you come to change the tiles? you will
destroy
the plasterboard. ;-(


hey if i am putting them on they are staying put lol i am welding them in
place

You can always abrade the surface and tile over them anyway.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
Samantha Booth wrote:

I have bought some Dunlop waterproof ready mixed grout from Screwfix.
Also bought a rubber pro float. Will be using BAL I think. Is that
Lithofin Grout Protector available on the high street? Also can anyone
here recommend a

Not seen it on in the shops. Easy to order from here though:

http://www.extensive.co.uk/section.php/9/0

tile cutter, the plug in water cooled type please?

I quite like my plasplugs one...

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Hi John

Having looked at he site they do manual and electric ones. Which one do you
have. I must say the manual one looks real easy to use but dont want to
break more tiles than I lay.

Samantha Booth wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Samantha Booth wrote:
"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...
Is it OK to tile onto plasterboard in the bathroom. I have all PB
walls and want to tile from the exsisting two rows up to the
ceiling in plain white tiles.

Is it OK to do this?

Thanks Sam


I have bought some Dunlop waterproof ready mixed grout from
Screwfix. Also bought a rubber pro float. Will be using BAL I
think. Is that Lithofin Grout Protector available on the high
street? Also can anyone here recommend a tile cutter, the plug in
water cooled type please? They all work more or less.

I got the cheapest at the builders mercahnts. Its on its second
cutting disk, but I have done a lot of marble, sandstone,
quartzite..and indeed whatever took her fancy at the local tiling
emporium ;-)
Whats the other option other than the electric wet ones? I will have
a few tiles to cut, natural stone ones mainly

The manual ones - score & snap - are much faster than an electric tile saw,
which abrades rather than cuts a tile. They will only do straight cuts &
wont cope with thin strips off the edge of the tile - it will crack.

Electric ones will cut thin strips, cutouts even rough curves but are slow &
make a mess.

Not sure about natural stone on a score & snap, don't think it would work.

If you are doing a fair amount of tiling, best to have both types. I'm sure
there is more info on the FAQ or Wiki thingy.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Samantha Booth wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Samantha Booth wrote:
"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...
Is it OK to tile onto plasterboard in the bathroom. I have all PB
walls and want to tile from the exsisting two rows up to the
ceiling in plain white tiles.

Is it OK to do this?

Thanks Sam

I have bought some Dunlop waterproof ready mixed grout from
Screwfix. Also bought a rubber pro float. Will be using BAL I
think. Is that Lithofin Grout Protector available on the high
street? Also can anyone here recommend a tile cutter, the plug in
water cooled type please? They all work more or less.
I got the cheapest at the builders mercahnts. Its on its second
cutting disk, but I have done a lot of marble, sandstone,
quartzite..and indeed whatever took her fancy at the local tiling
emporium ;-)
Whats the other option other than the electric wet ones? I will have
a few tiles to cut, natural stone ones mainly

The manual ones - score & snap - are much faster than an electric tile saw,
which abrades rather than cuts a tile. They will only do straight cuts &
wont cope with thin strips off the edge of the tile - it will crack.

Electric ones will cut thin strips, cutouts even rough curves but are slow &
make a mess.

Not sure about natural stone on a score & snap, don't think it would work.

If you are doing a fair amount of tiling, best to have both types. I'm sure
there is more info on the FAQ or Wiki thingy.


I only found score and snap worked on fairly thin tiles: and even then
not that well. Useless on thibck tiles, tiles with relief surfaces, and
natural stome prodes.


Since getting the electric, I simply don't use score and snap.

If you are a pro, and do a lot of plain white bathrooms, its probably a
fast way to do it. For anyone else, use the electric.

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
Homebase waterproof fix and grout is a very good adhesive. You don't,
of course, have to use it as a grout. It was on offer recently so good
value. Dunno if it still is.

Problem with most of them, is even if they stick well, they don't
control slip that well.

Are you saying there are some you could use for a heavy tile which won't
then slip down the wall if not supported below? Sounds like magic to me.
;-)

--
*A closed mouth gathers no feet.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
Homebase waterproof fix and grout is a very good adhesive. You don't,
of course, have to use it as a grout. It was on offer recently so good
value. Dunno if it still is.

Problem with most of them, is even if they stick well, they don't
control slip that well.

Are you saying there are some you could use for a heavy tile which won't
then slip down the wall if not supported below? Sounds like magic to me.
;-)


Suction rather than magic. IME the slip only lasts for about 5 minutes,
so you can either give them an upward shove or pop a couple of nails in
if you're likely to forget

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Samantha Booth wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Samantha Booth wrote:
"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...
Is it OK to tile onto plasterboard in the bathroom. I have all PB
walls and want to tile from the exsisting two rows up to the
ceiling in plain white tiles.

Is it OK to do this?

Thanks Sam

I have bought some Dunlop waterproof ready mixed grout from
Screwfix. Also bought a rubber pro float. Will be using BAL I
think. Is that Lithofin Grout Protector available on the high
street? Also can anyone here recommend a tile cutter, the plug in
water cooled type please? They all work more or less.
I got the cheapest at the builders mercahnts. Its on its second
cutting disk, but I have done a lot of marble, sandstone,
quartzite..and indeed whatever took her fancy at the local tiling
emporium ;-)
Whats the other option other than the electric wet ones? I will have
a few tiles to cut, natural stone ones mainly

The manual ones - score & snap - are much faster than an electric tile
saw, which abrades rather than cuts a tile. They will only do
straight cuts & wont cope with thin strips off the edge of the tile -
it will crack.

Electric ones will cut thin strips, cutouts even rough curves but are
slow & make a mess.

Not sure about natural stone on a score & snap, don't think it would
work.

If you are doing a fair amount of tiling, best to have both types.
I'm sure there is more info on the FAQ or Wiki thingy.


I only found score and snap worked on fairly thin tiles: and even then
not that well. Useless on thibck tiles, tiles with relief surfaces, and
natural stome prodes.


Since getting the electric, I simply don't use score and snap.

If you are a pro, and do a lot of plain white bathrooms, its probably a
fast way to do it. For anyone else, use the electric.

Snappers work perfectly well on ceramic floor tiles, with or without a
relief pattern. Okay, taking 5mm off ish't possible but 20mm and above
is fine. Of course, the decent ones cost more than the cheap saws but
they are just so much faster. The saw only comes out for fiddly cuts.

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...

"Samantha Booth" wrote in message
...
Is it OK to tile onto plasterboard in the bathroom. I have all PB walls
and want to tile from the exsisting two rows up to the ceiling in plain
white tiles.

Is it OK to do this?

Thanks Sam


I have bought some Dunlop waterproof ready mixed grout from Screwfix. Also
bought a rubber pro float. Will be using BAL I think. Is that Lithofin
Grout Protector available on the high street? Also can anyone here
recommend a tile cutter, the plug in water cooled type please?


Tungsten wheeled glass cutter and a matchstick should be fine.

In article ,
stuart noble wrote:
Are you saying there are some you could use for a heavy tile which
won't then slip down the wall if not supported below? Sounds like
magic to me. ;-)


Suction rather than magic. IME the slip only lasts for about 5 minutes,
so you can either give them an upward shove or pop a couple of nails in
if you're likely to forget

Right. In which case the Homebase stuff passes that test. I dunno where
you get all those fancy adhesives round here so a shed suits me better -
especially on a Sunday or evening.

--
*Therapy is expensive, poppin' bubble wrap is cheap! You choose.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
dennis@home wrote:
I have bought some Dunlop waterproof ready mixed grout from Screwfix.
Also bought a rubber pro float. Will be using BAL I think. Is that
Lithofin Grout Protector available on the high street? Also can
anyone here recommend a tile cutter, the plug in water cooled type
please?


Tungsten wheeled glass cutter and a matchstick should be fine.

You need to try that with some decent tiles. You'll fail.

--
*Half the people in the world are below average.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
stuart noble wrote:
Are you saying there are some you could use for a heavy tile which
won't then slip down the wall if not supported below? Sounds like
magic to me. ;-)


Suction rather than magic. IME the slip only lasts for about 5 minutes,
so you can either give them an upward shove or pop a couple of nails in
if you're likely to forget

Right. In which case the Homebase stuff passes that test. I dunno where
you get all those fancy adhesives round here so a shed suits me better -
especially on a Sunday or evening.


Ready mixed stuff in tubs is always expensive compared to the powdered
forms, partly because the lightweight fillers they use are better mixed
by machine

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
dennis@home wrote:
I have bought some Dunlop waterproof ready mixed grout from Screwfix.
Also bought a rubber pro float. Will be using BAL I think. Is that
Lithofin Grout Protector available on the high street? Also can
anyone here recommend a tile cutter, the plug in water cooled type
please?


Tungsten wheeled glass cutter and a matchstick should be fine.

You need to try that with some decent tiles. You'll fail.

More like some cr@p tiles and it will fail.
But you probably don't think ease of fitting counts.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
Homebase waterproof fix and grout is a very good adhesive. You don't,
of course, have to use it as a grout. It was on offer recently so good
value. Dunno if it still is.

Problem with most of them, is even if they stick well, they don't
control slip that well.

Are you saying there are some you could use for a heavy tile which won't
then slip down the wall if not supported below? Sounds like magic to me.
;-)

With some of the better adhesives the lighter weight tiles will simply
stick and stay put. Heavy ones will always need extra help.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Samantha Booth wrote:

Having looked at he site they do manual and electric ones. Which one do you
have. I must say the manual one looks real easy to use but dont want to
break more tiles than I lay.

Yes good point - plasplugs make both.

http://www.plasplugs.com/cutting.html

Go for one of the bigger more serious looking score and snap ones that
let you get plenty of leverage on the wheel and auto snaps the tiles.

I have the "COMPACT CONTRACTOR (CTC330)"

For the electric I just have the small one - I bought it for a
particular job for which that size was adequate. If I were choosing a
general purpose machine I would probably go for a larger one.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

dennis@home wrote:

Tungsten wheeled glass cutter and a matchstick should be fine.

OK for a one off if you have nothing better.

Not the way to do a full room. Having the built in sliding fence and
cutting guides on a decent cutter makes for much better repeat accuracy,
its also far quicker and easier, and you can make cuts you will not
manage with any degree of repeatability using match sticks.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 2008-07-10 20:16:20 +0100, John Rumm said:

dennis@home wrote:

Tungsten wheeled glass cutter and a matchstick should be fine.

OK for a one off if you have nothing better.

Not the way to do a full room. Having the built in sliding fence and
cutting guides on a decent cutter makes for much better repeat
accuracy, its also far quicker and easier, and you can make cuts you
will not manage with any degree of repeatability using match sticks.

Not suitable for stone either - especially the softer ones. The edges
will crumble. An electric saw is pretty much essential with stone.
Water and moving slowly an steadily is the route to success.

In article 4876775e@qaanaaq,
Andy Hall wrote:
Not suitable for stone either - especially the softer ones. The edges
will crumble. An electric saw is pretty much essential with stone.
Water and moving slowly an steadily is the route to success.

I wonder how good those ones are where the saw slides on runners rather
than you moving the tile? They're a lot bigger - but would make cutting
large tiles at an angle easy.

--
*I started out with nothing... and I still have most of it.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 2008-07-10 23:58:39 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
said:

In article 4876775e@qaanaaq,
Andy Hall wrote:
Not suitable for stone either - especially the softer ones. The edges
will crumble. An electric saw is pretty much essential with stone.
Water and moving slowly an steadily is the route to success.

I wonder how good those ones are where the saw slides on runners rather
than you moving the tile? They're a lot bigger - but would make cutting
large tiles at an angle easy.

I've seen them used by professionals. Rubi seems to be the popular
brand, and they wil cut large stone tiles at an angle.

You can do this on the smaller ones but it's more difficult. The main
thing is to go slowly but steadily and plenty of water.

In article 48770d57@qaanaaq,
Andy Hall wrote:
On 2008-07-10 23:58:39 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
said:

In article 4876775e@qaanaaq,
Andy Hall wrote:
Not suitable for stone either - especially the softer ones. The
edges will crumble. An electric saw is pretty much essential with
stone. Water and moving slowly an steadily is the route to success.

I wonder how good those ones are where the saw slides on runners rather
than you moving the tile? They're a lot bigger - but would make cutting
large tiles at an angle easy.

I've seen them used by professionals. Rubi seems to be the popular
brand, and they wil cut large stone tiles at an angle.

You can do this on the smaller ones but it's more difficult. The main
thing is to go slowly but steadily and plenty of water.

The only way with large tiles is to cut freehand. My Plasplugs has a guide
for angled cutting but only works with small tiles and isn't very
accurate. Of course that might be more the operator. ;-)

--
*Real men don't waste their hormones growing hair

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 09/07/2008 21:29 Samantha Booth wrote:

Also can anyone here recommend a
tile cutter, the plug in water cooled type please?

I got a £30 Focus DIY own brand last year and it's worked fine. Great
for cutting L shapes. I fitted a new blade after ~50 boxes of tiles!

Just try to avoid using it in the garage with the door open in February!

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F