I'm bought some concealed (Euro?) hinges from Screwfix for the doors of
a row of bathroom units I'm making:
http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=2QAWLRQQVY30OCSTHZOSFFY?_dync harset=UTF-8&fh_search=19361+&x=10&y=8

Now, I've fitted these things from scratch in the past, but I now can't
figure out how the hell to do it! Must be getting old :-(

Which component do you fit first - frame or door ? - and how do you get
the positioning correct? There's no info that came with mine to give
any inkling, and Google is unfriendly on the matter today.

David

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Lobster wrote:

I'm bought some concealed (Euro?) hinges from Screwfix for the doors
of a row of bathroom units I'm making:
http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=2QAWLRQQVY30OCSTHZOSFFY?_dync harset=UTF-8&fh_search=19361+&x=10&y=8

Now, I've fitted these things from scratch in the past, but I now
can't figure out how the hell to do it! Must be getting old :-(

Which component do you fit first - frame or door ? - and how do you
get the positioning correct? There's no info that came with mine to
give any inkling, and Google is unfriendly on the matter today.

David

Fit to the door first. Get a door and a free sidewall, and hold the door in
the correct closed position relative to the sidewall . Then offer up a hinge
in the closed position, and determine how far from the edge of the door it
needs to be. Then drill the recesses in the door and fix the hinges to the
door. Finally, offer the door plus hinges up to the free sidewall and
determine where to attach the arms of the hinges to the sidewall.

If you get it more or less right, the hinges are usually adjustable in two
of the 3 planes - so you can 'fine tune' them.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

On Mon, 12 May 2008 17:18:17 +0100, Lobster wrote:

I'm bought some concealed (Euro?) hinges from Screwfix for the doors of
a row of bathroom units I'm making:
http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=2QAWLRQQVY30OCSTHZOSFFY?_dync harset=UTF-8&fh_search=19361+&x=10&y=8

Now, I've fitted these things from scratch in the past, but I now can't
figure out how the hell to do it! Must be getting old :-(

Which component do you fit first - frame or door ? - and how do you get
the positioning correct? There's no info that came with mine to give
any inkling, and Google is unfriendly on the matter today.

David

==================================
It's worth making a dummy door from an offcut.

Mark the position of the hinge (on the dummy door)with the outer edge of
the hinge about 1/8" (3mm) from the edge. Drill and fix the hinge to the
dummy and then fix the other part of the hinge (the bit which will attach
to cupboard carcase) to the main hinge and position in the mid position of
its adjustable range. Place the dummy door complete with hinge in position
against the carcase and use the hinge to mark the position of the hinge.
Fix the dummy door in the marked position and check to see that it opens
and closes correctly. Adjust as necessary. Make another dummy if necessary
to finalise the correct position of the hinge on the door - the 1/8"
suggested above is a good starting point.

Cic.
--
===================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
===================================

Lobster wrote:
I'm bought some concealed (Euro?) hinges from Screwfix for the doors of
a row of bathroom units I'm making:
http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=2QAWLRQQVY30OCSTHZOSFFY?_dync harset=UTF-8&fh_search=19361+&x=10&y=8


Now, I've fitted these things from scratch in the past, but I now can't
figure out how the hell to do it! Must be getting old :-(

Which component do you fit first - frame or door ? - and how do you get
the positioning correct? There's no info that came with mine to give
any inkling, and Google is unfriendly on the matter today.


David,

I bought one of these:

http://www.isaaclord.co.uk/productDetail.aspx?product=3113&subCat=000

Decide on position for door part (critical to get door edge to hole
spacing right - depends on material thicknesses). I think most of mine
have had centres 100mm up or down from door edge and a gap of something
like 3 to 5 mm from edge of door to edge of hole. (Need to check that.)

Fit the door parts of the hinges. (I usually smear some PVA inside the
35mm holes and let them dry before fitting the hinges themselves.) Put
both hinges into their holes and use a long straight edge to make sure
they align with each other. Screw into place.

Place door alongside main cupboard. Mark exact position of hinges. Using
template (above) you can mark both sides of the hinge or the midpoint.

Used template to mark and/or make holes for screws. (Or laboriously
measure, check, measure, check and eventually mark and drill.)

Fit the cupboard parts.

Assemble. (With the Clip Top this is just snapping them into place -
none of this hold in place and tighten an awkward screw.)

I have now fitted Lama and FGV (and probably other) hinges. Mostly in
kit furniture but also in new work. My conclusion? Pay double. Get Blum
lay-on Clip Top hinges. Get the Blumotion soft close mechanism (shown on
that page) - one per door should suffice. Makes the cheapos supplied by
Wickes/B&Q/etc. look the cheap tat they are.

http://www.blum.com/gb/en/01/20/10/index.php

Reasons:
Quality of design and manufacture.
Ease of fitting and adjustment. Mostly just turning a screw - whereas
many others you have to undo a screw, adjust, tighten - repeatedly.
Availability of fitting template (cheap too!).
Availability of fitting details.
Available in an extraordinary range of wide opening and special versions.
Best soft close I have ever used.
Pretty good web site with lots of info. - when you work out how it is
structured.

The only negative I can come up with is price. (See Andy Hall's posts
passim. :-) )

"The quality remains long after the price is forgotten!"

Disclaimer: I do not have any shares in Blum. :-)

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

On 2008-05-12 20:46:11 +0100, Rod said:

Lobster wrote:
I'm bought some concealed (Euro?) hinges from Screwfix for the doors of
a row of bathroom units I'm making:
http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=2QAWLRQQVY30OCSTHZOSFFY?_dync harset=UTF-8&fh_search=19361+&x=10&y=8

Now,

I've fitted these things from scratch in the past, but I now can't
figure out how the hell to do it! Must be getting old :-(

Which component do you fit first - frame or door ? - and how do you get
the positioning correct? There's no info that came with mine to give
any inkling, and Google is unfriendly on the matter today.


David,

I bought one of these:

http://www.isaaclord.co.uk/productDetail.aspx?product=3113&subCat=000

Yes, well worth it to get the precise positioning/


Decide on position for door part (critical to get door edge to hole
spacing right - depends on material thicknesses). I think most of mine
have had centres 100mm up or down from door edge and a gap of something
like 3 to 5 mm from edge of door to edge of hole. (Need to check that.)

It also depends slightly on the model of hinge.

The hole needs to be drilled with a proper hinge cutter - not any old
Forstner bit. Otherwise there is a risk of the locating point
breaking through the material when the ole has reached the required
depth. I use a scrap of the frame material and set the whole thing
up on the drill press.



Fit the door parts of the hinges. (I usually smear some PVA inside the
35mm holes and let them dry before fitting the hinges themselves.) Put
both hinges into their holes and use a long straight edge to make sure
they align with each other. Screw into place.

Place door alongside main cupboard. Mark exact position of hinges.
Using template (above) you can mark both sides of the hinge or the
midpoint.

Used template to mark and/or make holes for screws. (Or laboriously
measure, check, measure, check and eventually mark and drill.)

Fit the cupboard parts.

Assemble. (With the Clip Top this is just snapping them into place -
none of this hold in place and tighten an awkward screw.)

I have now fitted Lama and FGV (and probably other) hinges. Mostly in
kit furniture but also in new work. My conclusion? Pay double. Get Blum
lay-on Clip Top hinges. Get the Blumotion soft close mechanism (shown
on that page) - one per door should suffice. Makes the cheapos supplied
by Wickes/B&Q/etc. look the cheap tat they are.

http://www.blum.com/gb/en/01/20/10/index.php

Reasons:
Quality of design and manufacture.
Ease of fitting and adjustment. Mostly just turning a screw - whereas
many others you have to undo a screw, adjust, tighten - repeatedly.
Availability of fitting template (cheap too!).
Availability of fitting details.
Available in an extraordinary range of wide opening and special versions.
Best soft close I have ever used.
Pretty good web site with lots of info. - when you work out how it is
structured.

The only negative I can come up with is price. (See Andy Hall's posts
passim. :-) )

"The quality remains long after the price is forgotten!"

Disclaimer: I do not have any shares in Blum. :-)

I've used exactly the same parts on my cloakroom cupboards as well as
other projects. The price of Blum stuff is more than that of the
cheap generics, but is virtually zero in the context of a complete
project or the time taken in making a new door.

It's also worth getting a copy of the Blum catalogue. Isaac Lord
will provide one on request, a well produced hardback book.

Cicero wrote:
On Mon, 12 May 2008 17:18:17 +0100, Lobster wrote:

I'm bought some concealed (Euro?) hinges from Screwfix for the doors of
a row of bathroom units I'm making:
http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=2QAWLRQQVY30OCSTHZOSFFY?_dync harset=UTF-8&fh_search=19361+&x=10&y=8

Now, I've fitted these things from scratch in the past, but I now can't
figure out how the hell to do it! Must be getting old :-(

Which component do you fit first - frame or door ? - and how do you get
the positioning correct? There's no info that came with mine to give
any inkling, and Google is unfriendly on the matter today.

David

==================================
It's worth making a dummy door from an offcut.

Mark the position of the hinge (on the dummy door)with the outer edge of
the hinge about 1/8" (3mm) from the edge. Drill and fix the hinge to the
dummy and then fix the other part of the hinge (the bit which will attach
to cupboard carcase) to the main hinge and position in the mid position of
its adjustable range. Place the dummy door complete with hinge in position
against the carcase and use the hinge to mark the position of the hinge.
Fix the dummy door in the marked position and check to see that it opens
and closes correctly. Adjust as necessary. Make another dummy if necessary
to finalise the correct position of the hinge on the door - the 1/8"
suggested above is a good starting point.

Thanks all. Looks like a dummy door is the way forward... I'm spitting
to see the Blum template at Isaac Lord though! It's a no-brainer: they
must be dirt cheap to produce, so why aren't they available for all such
hinges, even the dirt cheap ones like mine?

Blum for me next time... ;-)

David

Lobster wrote:
Cicero wrote:
On Mon, 12 May 2008 17:18:17 +0100, Lobster wrote:

I'm bought some concealed (Euro?) hinges from Screwfix for the doors of
a row of bathroom units I'm making:
http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=2QAWLRQQVY30OCSTHZOSFFY?_dync harset=UTF-8&fh_search=19361+&x=10&y=8


Now, I've fitted these things from scratch in the past, but I now can't
figure out how the hell to do it! Must be getting old :-(

Which component do you fit first - frame or door ? - and how do you get
the positioning correct? There's no info that came with mine to give
any inkling, and Google is unfriendly on the matter today.

David

==================================
It's worth making a dummy door from an offcut.

Mark the position of the hinge (on the dummy door)with the outer edge of
the hinge about 1/8" (3mm) from the edge. Drill and fix the hinge to the
dummy and then fix the other part of the hinge (the bit which will attach
to cupboard carcase) to the main hinge and position in the mid
position of
its adjustable range. Place the dummy door complete with hinge in
position
against the carcase and use the hinge to mark the position of the hinge.
Fix the dummy door in the marked position and check to see that it opens
and closes correctly. Adjust as necessary. Make another dummy if
necessary
to finalise the correct position of the hinge on the door - the 1/8"
suggested above is a good starting point.

Thanks all. Looks like a dummy door is the way forward... I'm spitting
to see the Blum template at Isaac Lord though! It's a no-brainer: they
must be dirt cheap to produce, so why aren't they available for all such
hinges, even the dirt cheap ones like mine?

Blum for me next time... ;-)

David,

It does work for the hinges used by B&Q which are, I think, cheapie FGV.
27mm from edge to holes.

The after-market style (cruciform) soft-close fitments supplied by
Wickes are made by Blum - but they are single action and fit on the
non-hinge side. Nowhere near as good as Blumotion. In fact, Wickes use a
mixture of Blum stuff (e.g. drawer mechanisms and soft-close) and
others (hinges).

The Clip Top hinges have the singular advantage that doors can easily be
removed and replaced at any time without even lifting a screwdriver and
without losing the adjustment position of the fitted door.

And you might care to have a quick look at my post of a month ago:

"Newsgroups: uk.d-i-y
From: Rod
Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 10:22:50 +0100
Local: Tues 15 Apr 2008 10:22
Subject: Fitting Blum Hinges


Recently I have fitted a few Blum hinges.

First pair, I carefully measured, remeasured, drilled, etc. Not too bad.
They work.

Second pair. I bought Blum template 65.5300 from Isaac Lord for £2-31
inc. Plonked on. Drilled through template (2.5mm). Fitted the plates.
Worked perfectly. Only measurement required is distance from top/bottom
of cabinet to hinge position. And even then you can simply place the
dorr (hinges attached) alongside the cabinet and draw along the sides of
the hinges. There are marks/edges on the template to align with edge or
centre lines done like that.

Doesn't do a lot but what it does it does well.

Apparently the template has to be ordered directly from Austria so they
might not be available from all stockists of Blum stuff.

I suspect that it might work with some other makes as well - the holes
are set 27mm from the cabinet edge and 32mm apart."

http://groups.google.co.uk/group/uk.d-i-y/browse_frm/thread/41bdc4e6bcc7f4e8/d6fd5f3161413f5a?lnk=st&q=#d6fd5f3161413f5a

And spit some more. :-)

If you want one but can't find one, email me.

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org