I want to fit an MK Masterseal weatherproof socket for powering garden
tools, and will be ordering it from TLC:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MK56480.html

This will be conveniently attached to the wall immediately "behind" my
CU, so I can take a spur straight through the wall from the
(RCD-protected) downstairs ring. The cable will enter the socket box
from behind.

I take it this can be done using standard 2.5mm^2 T&E?

Also, without having the socket in my hands it's hard to tell: what
'extras' do I need to buy in terms of grommets/glands etc? I can see
several bits on the TLC site! Or is everything I need provided?

Thanks
David

Lobster wrote:
I want to fit an MK Masterseal weatherproof socket for powering garden
tools, and will be ordering it from TLC:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MK56480.html

This will be conveniently attached to the wall immediately "behind" my
CU, so I can take a spur straight through the wall from the
(RCD-protected) downstairs ring. The cable will enter the socket box
from behind.

I take it this can be done using standard 2.5mm^2 T&E?

In your case, yup - since the cable won't be exposed outside.

Also, without having the socket in my hands it's hard to tell: what
'extras' do I need to buy in terms of grommets/glands etc? I can see
several bits on the TLC site! Or is everything I need provided?

Probably got all you need. To seal the cable entry at the back I would
normally mount them on a splodge of silicone so that any water running
down the wall can not get behind it. You could also use one of the
waterproof plastic glands - although you will need to drill a big enough
hole on the outside of the wall to take the width of the gland.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Lobster wrote:
I want to fit an MK Masterseal weatherproof socket for powering garden
tools, and will be ordering it from TLC:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MK56480.html

This will be conveniently attached to the wall immediately "behind" my
CU, so I can take a spur straight through the wall from the
(RCD-protected) downstairs ring. The cable will enter the socket box
from behind.

I take it this can be done using standard 2.5mm^2 T&E?

Also, without having the socket in my hands it's hard to tell: what
'extras' do I need to buy in terms of grommets/glands etc? I can see
several bits on the TLC site! Or is everything I need provided?

Thanks
David
I have the double version of this.
It has no knockouts on the back; so I brought the cable out through the
wall in rigid conduit leaving about 2 cm proud, drilled the back of the
box and siliconed the conduit in.
I think it gives a neat finish with no extra fittings or careful
measuring required.

In article ,
Lobster writes:
I want to fit an MK Masterseal weatherproof socket for powering garden
tools, and will be ordering it from TLC:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MK56480.html

That one remains weatherproof when there's something plugged
in to it. If you won't be using it in the rain, there are
cheaper ones which are weatherproof only when nothing is
plugged in. If it's just for mowing the lawn, that's
usually good enough.

This will be conveniently attached to the wall immediately "behind" my
CU, so I can take a spur straight through the wall from the
(RCD-protected) downstairs ring. The cable will enter the socket box
from behind.

I take it this can be done using standard 2.5mm^2 T&E?

Also, without having the socket in my hands it's hard to tell: what
'extras' do I need to buy in terms of grommets/glands etc? I can see
several bits on the TLC site! Or is everything I need provided?

I would buy an MK grommet for T&E (has a small slot in the
middle which stretches around T&E).

I fitted a double pole 20A isolating switch inside in the dry.
This enables you to disconnect the outdoor circuitry if it happens
to get damp and trip the RCD. Might also prevent anyone else
stealing your electricity via that socket.

You could also make the socket a TT circuit by it having it's
own earth rod outside.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Lobster wrote:
I want to fit an MK Masterseal weatherproof socket for powering garden
tools, and will be ordering it from TLC:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MK56480.html

This will be conveniently attached to the wall immediately "behind" my
CU, so I can take a spur straight through the wall from the
(RCD-protected) downstairs ring. The cable will enter the socket box
from behind.

I take it this can be done using standard 2.5mm^2 T&E?

Yes, or even in singles if you put a bit of conduit through the wall.

Also, without having the socket in my hands it's hard to tell: what
'extras' do I need to buy in terms of grommets/glands etc? I can see
several bits on the TLC site! Or is everything I need provided?

The correct way to do this is to discard the back box which comes with
the socket and use a 56504 GRY rear entry box instead. This, which TLC
don't seem to stock, has a central 20 mm entry in the back and no
knockouts round the sides. You can then fit either a 56462 BLK conduit
adaptor or a 56461 BLK shaped PVC cable entry grommet, both of which TLC
do list.

An alternative would be to use the 56541 grommet in the bottom entry
position (Ob. ooo err) bringing the cable out through the wall just
underneath the socket.

--
Andy

Owain wrote:

Discard, oh deary me.

Oh, terribly sorry, how about "set aside" instead? Set aside for about
15 years usually, then discard...

--
Andy

In article ,
Lobster wrote:
I want to fit an MK Masterseal weatherproof socket for powering garden
tools, and will be ordering it from TLC:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MK56480.html

This will be conveniently attached to the wall immediately "behind" my
CU, so I can take a spur straight through the wall from the
(RCD-protected) downstairs ring. The cable will enter the socket box
from behind.

I take it this can be done using standard 2.5mm^2 T&E?

Also, without having the socket in my hands it's hard to tell: what
'extras' do I need to buy in terms of grommets/glands etc? I can see
several bits on the TLC site! Or is everything I need provided?

I chased mine partially into the brick - it looked terribly vulnerable
surface mounted.

--
*The beatings will continue until morale improves *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tue, 06 May 2008 00:11:54 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

I chased mine partially into the brick - it looked terribly vulnerable
surface mounted.

Yes - mine is above where the extension ladder lives and was bound to be smashed
so put it in large diecast box (with ali door).

Geo

On May 5, 10:15 pm, andrew@a17 (Andrew Gabriel) wrote:

I fitted a double pole 20A isolating switch inside in the dry.
This enables you to disconnect the outdoor circuitry if it happens
to get damp and trip the RCD. Might also prevent anyone else
stealing your electricity via that socket.

....or burglars using your electricity to power their power tools to
break in! That really would be adding insult to injury!

Mathew

In message
,
Mathew Newton writes
On May 5, 10:15 pm, andrew@a17 (Andrew Gabriel) wrote:

I fitted a double pole 20A isolating switch inside in the dry.
This enables you to disconnect the outdoor circuitry if it happens
to get damp and trip the RCD. Might also prevent anyone else
stealing your electricity via that socket.

...or burglars using your electricity to power their power tools to
break in! That really would be adding insult to injury!

Hmm... I find battery powered angle grinders more worrying than bolt
croppers:-(

regards

--
Tim Lamb

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
In message
,
Mathew Newton writes
On May 5, 10:15 pm, andrew@a17 (Andrew Gabriel) wrote:

I fitted a double pole 20A isolating switch inside in the dry.
This enables you to disconnect the outdoor circuitry if it happens
to get damp and trip the RCD. Might also prevent anyone else
stealing your electricity via that socket.

...or burglars using your electricity to power their power tools to
break in! That really would be adding insult to injury!

Hmm... I find battery xxxxx xxxxx xxxxx more worrying than bolt
croppers:-(

Shhhh!!

Is there a lock out there that can stand a couple of minutes with a diamond
disc?

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Lobster writes:
I want to fit an MK Masterseal weatherproof socket for powering garden
tools, and will be ordering it from TLC:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MK56480.html

That one remains weatherproof when there's something plugged
in to it. If you won't be using it in the rain, there are
cheaper ones which are weatherproof only when nothing is
plugged in. If it's just for mowing the lawn, that's
usually good enough.

Many thanks for all the advice - notably the above which has saved me a
tenner (hadn't realised there were different grades available like this)!

So, taking advantage of the nice weather to fit it this afternoon. Am
curious about the instructions though. The back-box has two earthing
terminals - given that this is obviously a plastic box, when would they
be required?

The instructions are as follows:

"2.3.1 Sockets
In spur configuration we recommend feed cable of 1.5 sq. mm for the
single socket and 2.5 sq. mm for the double socket. If the unit is to
form part of a ring then incoming and outgoing cables must both be 2.5
sq. mm (with the double socket we recommend that the incoming and
outgoing cables can be connected to one socket each with a 2.5 sq. mm
bridging cable between the two sockets.

Use back box earthing terminals to maintain earth continuity where
required."

Which brings me to another query. This doesn't apply to me as I have a
single socket, but what on earth is the bit about using a bridging cable
in a double socket? Surely it can't mean that this is necessary for the
continuity of the ring to be maintained, or, apart from anything else,
it would be compulsory rather than recommended? (FWIW the double socket
is at:
http://www.timeguard.com/product/outdoor-power/powerseal-sockets/outdoor-twin-gang-socket)

Just curious!
David

"Lobster" wrote in message
...
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Lobster writes:
I want to fit an MK Masterseal weatherproof socket for powering garden
tools, and will be ordering it from TLC:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MK56480.html

That one remains weatherproof when there's something plugged
in to it. If you won't be using it in the rain, there are
cheaper ones which are weatherproof only when nothing is
plugged in. If it's just for mowing the lawn, that's
usually good enough.

Many thanks for all the advice - notably the above which has saved me a
tenner (hadn't realised there were different grades available like this)!

So, taking advantage of the nice weather to fit it this afternoon. Am
curious about the instructions though. The back-box has two earthing
terminals - given that this is obviously a plastic box, when would they
be required?

The instructions are as follows:

"2.3.1 Sockets
In spur configuration we recommend feed cable of 1.5 sq. mm for the
single socket and 2.5 sq. mm for the double socket. If the unit is to
form part of a ring then incoming and outgoing cables must both be 2.5
sq. mm (with the double socket we recommend that the incoming and
outgoing cables can be connected to one socket each with a 2.5 sq. mm
bridging cable between the two sockets.

Use back box earthing terminals to maintain earth continuity where
required."

Which brings me to another query. This doesn't apply to me as I have a
single socket, but what on earth is the bit about using a bridging cable
in a double socket? Surely it can't mean that this is necessary for the
continuity of the ring to be maintained, or, apart from anything else,
it would be compulsory rather than recommended? (FWIW the double socket
is at:

http://www.timeguard.com/product/out...ets/outdoor-tw
in-gang-socket)

Just curious!
David

The two terminals are for use on high integrity, multi-computer
installations where the total earth leakage current is 10mA and above, as I
recall. The double socket probably comes without the necessary links/bridges
beteween the two 13A socket outlets. I wouldn't recommend the use of 1.5mm²
cable from a final ring circuit.
Regards

Owain wrote:
Lobster wrote:
So, taking advantage of the nice weather to fit it this afternoon. Am
curious about the instructions though. The back-box has two earthing
terminals - given that this is obviously a plastic box, when would
they be required?

When wiring a lightswitch or other accessory which does not need an
earth. Are both terminals marked for earth, or could one be used for
looping the lighting circuit?

Can't remember the markings, and I ain't unscrewing it all now! ;-)

Which brings me to another query. This doesn't apply to me as I have a
single socket, but what on earth is the bit about using a bridging
cable in a double socket? Surely it can't mean that this is necessary
for the continuity of the ring to be maintained, or, apart from
anything else, it would be compulsory rather than recommended? (FWIW
the double socket is at:
http://www.timeguard.com/product/outdoor-power/powerseal-sockets/outdoor-twin-gang-socket)


It looks as though the double socket is two single sockets mounted on
the same faceplate, without internal links between the two.

Well I did wonder about that possibility, but wouldn't that make the
bridge really pretty important, rather than just the mealy-mouthed
'recommended'? Admittedly I can't think of any other reason though.

David

Lobster wrote:

Which brings me to another query. This doesn't apply to me as I have a
single socket, but what on earth is the bit about using a bridging cable
in a double socket? Surely it can't mean that this is necessary for the
continuity of the ring to be maintained, or, apart from anything else,
it would be compulsory rather than recommended? (FWIW the double socket
is at:
http://www.timeguard.com/product/outdoor-power/powerseal-sockets/outdoor-twin-gang-socket)


The double socket may in fact be two singles each with their own
independent and non connected terminals. Hence with a ring you could
connect one leag to each socket and then need to bridge them (equally
you could connect both to one, and then need a bridge to provide power
to the other socket rather than maintain ring continuity.

However I agree the wording is poor.

The earth terminals are probably there as the backbox will be used in a
number applications like for use with light switches etc.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/