I have had to re-plaster part of my shower room. This is about 25mm
thick and was done using browning and then finish plaster.
I am assuming that I need this to dry completey before I plaster. Once
this is done I should prime the surface.

I have read conflicting advice on this. The tiling faq

http://www.enigmatist.com/free/john49/tilefaq.htm
recommends the use of pva.

However, elsewhere I have read that this can cause problems if it gets
wet.

I would be interested to hear the views of the group on this.
Thanks
Tim

"Tim Decker" wrote in message
...
I have had to re-plaster part of my shower room. This is about 25mm
thick and was done using browning and then finish plaster.
I am assuming that I need this to dry completey before I plaster. Once
this is done I should prime the surface.

I have read conflicting advice on this. The tiling faq

http://www.enigmatist.com/free/john49/tilefaq.htm
recommends the use of pva.

However, elsewhere I have read that this can cause problems if it gets
wet.

I would be interested to hear the views of the group on this.
Thanks
Tim

Once plaster completely dry, PVA (5 to 1 or thereabout), and tile. I have
done 5 bathrooms and 7 kitchens this way over the last 5 years and haven't
had a problem yet.

JoeJoe wrote:
"Tim Decker" wrote in message
...
I have had to re-plaster part of my shower room. This is about 25mm
thick and was done using browning and then finish plaster.
I am assuming that I need this to dry completey before I plaster. Once
this is done I should prime the surface.

I have read conflicting advice on this. The tiling faq

http://www.enigmatist.com/free/john49/tilefaq.htm
recommends the use of pva.

However, elsewhere I have read that this can cause problems if it gets
wet.

I would be interested to hear the views of the group on this.
Thanks
Tim

Once plaster completely dry, PVA (5 to 1 or thereabout), and tile. I have
done 5 bathrooms and 7 kitchens this way over the last 5 years and haven't
had a problem yet.




IME standard tile adhesive sticks perfectly well to new plaster. It's
designed that way

In article ,
Tim Decker writes:
I have had to re-plaster part of my shower room. This is about 25mm
thick and was done using browning and then finish plaster.
I am assuming that I need this to dry completey before I plaster. Once
this is done I should prime the surface.

I have read conflicting advice on this. The tiling faq

http://www.enigmatist.com/free/john49/tilefaq.htm
recommends the use of pva.

However, elsewhere I have read that this can cause problems if it gets
wet.

I would be interested to hear the views of the group on this.

You have to check the instructions for the adhesive you use.
None are likely to recommend PVA as it's water soluable, which
is not a smart move in a shower. You shouldn't need anything
on new plaster as the surface will be stable, and the adhesive
will contain its own bonding agent anyway. Just check it's
suitable for use on plaster (most are nowadays).

I would suggest using a waterproofer/plasticiser in the grout,
such as BAL Admix GT1, although this is more important on
untanked plasterboard walls.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Dec 18, 3:19 pm, (Andrew Gabriel)
wrote:
In article ,
Tim Decker writes:

I have had to re-plaster part of my shower room. This is about 25mm
thick and was done using browning and then finish plaster.
I am assuming that I need this to dry completey before I plaster. Once
this is done I should prime the surface.

I have read conflicting advice on this. The tiling faq

http://www.enigmatist.com/free/john49/tilefaq.htm
recommends the use of pva.

However, elsewhere I have read that this can cause problems if it gets
wet.

I would be interested to hear the views of the group on this.

You have to check the instructions for the adhesive you use.
None are likely to recommend PVA as it's water soluable,

Except when it's waterproof?

MBQ

In article ,
"Man at B&Q" writes:
On Dec 18, 3:19 pm, (Andrew Gabriel)
wrote:
In article ,
Tim Decker writes:

I have had to re-plaster part of my shower room. This is about 25mm
thick and was done using browning and then finish plaster.
I am assuming that I need this to dry completey before I plaster. Once
this is done I should prime the surface.

I have read conflicting advice on this. The tiling faq

http://www.enigmatist.com/free/john49/tilefaq.htm
recommends the use of pva.

However, elsewhere I have read that this can cause problems if it gets
wet.

I would be interested to hear the views of the group on this.

You have to check the instructions for the adhesive you use.
None are likely to recommend PVA as it's water soluable,

Except when it's waterproof?

Waterproof/Exterior PVA (which is really EVA) is only waterproof
inside a mortar mix (and it's only a bit more waterproof than PVA).
Other than that, I'm not sure what you're referring to.

If you want to create a waterproof barrier (e.g. on plasterboard),
use one of the tanking products designed for the purpose. If you
just want a bonding agent, that's already in the tile adhesive,
and it sticks rock hard to anything (as anyone who's tried to get
a misplaced bit off will testify;-).

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

JoeJoe wrote:
"Tim Decker" wrote in message
...
I have had to re-plaster part of my shower room. This is about 25mm
thick and was done using browning and then finish plaster.
I am assuming that I need this to dry completey before I plaster. Once
this is done I should prime the surface.

I have read conflicting advice on this. The tiling faq

http://www.enigmatist.com/free/john49/tilefaq.htm
recommends the use of pva.

However, elsewhere I have read that this can cause problems if it gets
wet.

I would be interested to hear the views of the group on this.
Thanks
Tim

Once plaster completely dry, PVA (5 to 1 or thereabout), and tile. I have
done 5 bathrooms and 7 kitchens this way over the last 5 years and haven't
had a problem yet.



OTOH I slapped tiles onto fresh plaster within days with no further
preparation at all, and they are fine also.

A lot probably depends on the tile cement. I found 'evostik waterproof'
which is like 'no more nails' in a tub. Its the best yet.

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Tim Decker writes:
I have had to re-plaster part of my shower room. This is about 25mm
thick and was done using browning and then finish plaster.
I am assuming that I need this to dry completey before I plaster. Once
this is done I should prime the surface.

I have read conflicting advice on this. The tiling faq

http://www.enigmatist.com/free/john49/tilefaq.htm
recommends the use of pva.

However, elsewhere I have read that this can cause problems if it gets
wet.

I would be interested to hear the views of the group on this.

You have to check the instructions for the adhesive you use.
None are likely to recommend PVA as it's water soluable, which
is not a smart move in a shower.

That's why the tiles and the grout are there. To keep the plaster walls dry.

If ANY water gets to plaster you are in deep doggy-doos.Never mind the PVA.



You shouldn't need anything
on new plaster as the surface will be stable, and the adhesive
will contain its own bonding agent anyway. Just check it's
suitable for use on plaster (most are nowadays).

I would suggest using a waterproofer/plasticiser in the grout,
such as BAL Admix GT1, although this is more important on
untanked plasterboard walls.

On Dec 18, 7:12 pm, (Andrew Gabriel)
wrote:
In article ,
"Man at B&Q" writes:





On Dec 18, 3:19 pm, (Andrew Gabriel)
wrote:
In article ,
Tim Decker writes:

I have had to re-plaster part of my shower room. This is about 25mm
thick and was done using browning and then finish plaster.
I am assuming that I need this to dry completey before I plaster. Once
this is done I should prime the surface.

I have read conflicting advice on this. The tiling faq

http://www.enigmatist.com/free/john49/tilefaq.htm
recommends the use of pva.

However, elsewhere I have read that this can cause problems if it gets
wet.

I would be interested to hear the views of the group on this.

You have to check the instructions for the adhesive you use.
None are likely to recommend PVA as it's water soluable,

Except when it's waterproof?

Waterproof/Exterior PVA (which is really EVA) is only waterproof
inside a mortar mix (and it's only a bit more waterproof than PVA).
Other than that, I'm not sure what you're referring to.

Thanks, nor was I really, hence it was a question rather than a
statement.

MBQ