Hello,

I am needing to construct a door frame for a 7'x7' garage door. Any
pointers on how to make the strongest best frame possible?

The timber merchant advised me to use 3"x3" wood and to treat it
myself. He said anything bigger would be too big and heavy. Do you
agree?

Is any treatment better than any other?

Another merchant said not to take the frame to ground level so it does
not get damp, but I'm not sure that I can do this; after all, if I
leave a gap, doesn't that give thieves a point to insert a crow bar?

How do I make a suitable mortise? is it time to buy a router? How deep
should the mortise be?

What frame fixings shall I use: are some more secure than others?

Thank you very much.

Fred wrote:
Hello,

I am needing to construct a door frame for a 7'x7' garage door. Any
pointers on how to make the strongest best frame possible?

The timber merchant advised me to use 3"x3" wood and to treat it
myself. He said anything bigger would be too big and heavy. Do you
agree?

Is any treatment better than any other?

Another merchant said not to take the frame to ground level so it does
not get damp, but I'm not sure that I can do this; after all, if I
leave a gap, doesn't that give thieves a point to insert a crow bar?

How do I make a suitable mortise? is it time to buy a router? How deep
should the mortise be?

What frame fixings shall I use: are some more secure than others?

Thank you very much.

A screwed half lap joint would be easier, and only needs a handsaw. If
this is an up and over door, there are probably plenty of places to
insert a crowbar. Alternatively, whack a load of grease on the end where
it meets the ground.
Best to make a 4 sided structure and brace the corners. Something this
size will creep out of square if you don't make it rigid. The bottom bit
can be a piece of scrap but it keeps everything square while you fix it.

what make of garage door are you fitting,if a torsion spring do not use a
half lap joint as they are too weak.a through and through mortice and tenon
is normal.

You can buy ready made frames in timber.if installing timber a piece of
slate under the frame stops any water

Or if a new door pay a little extra and have a metal frame door comes
prefitted and it makes installation much easier.

On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 17:48:49 -0000, "ALex" wrote:

what make of garage door are you fitting,if a torsion spring do not use a
half lap joint as they are too weak.a through and through mortice and tenon
is normal.

Thank you everyone for your help so far.

I'm a bit confused because I've got one vote for a half lap joint and
another against it. Can anyone break the deadlock?

I'm not sure that the existing frame has a mortice. I think it's just
two bits of wood screwed together; I think that's known as a full lap?
My worry was that this might twist

You can buy ready made frames in timber

I have seen these for sale but they cost £80, whereas the wood to make
them probably costs a quarter of this.

Or if a new door pay a little extra and have a metal frame door comes
prefitted and it makes installation much easier.

That was my first choice but they are not available until February.

Fred wrote:
Hello,

I am needing to construct a door frame for a 7'x7' garage door. Any
pointers on how to make the strongest best frame possible?

The timber merchant advised me to use 3"x3" wood and to treat it
myself. He said anything bigger would be too big and heavy. Do you
agree?

3" x 3" would be Ok but I would tend to use 4" x 2" - presuming that you are
using timber doors. If you are using prefabricated up-and-over doors, then
you can adjust the frame thickness to accomadate different sized doors and
opening.

Is any treatment better than any other?

You can use Vac-Vac treated or tanalised timber for the frame as both can be
painted.

Another merchant said not to take the frame to ground level so it does
not get damp, but I'm not sure that I can do this; after all, if I
leave a gap, doesn't that give thieves a point to insert a crow bar?

Leave a 3/4" gap between the frame and floor - it stops the end grain
'sucking' up rain water.

There is no security risk here.

How do I make a suitable mortise? is it time to buy a router? How deep
should the mortise be?

Don't bother forking out for a router - inmy opinion it is next to useless
for a job like this.

I would use a haunched mortise and tenon joint - as opposed to a plain one.
See the following tinypic links for an idea of the construction:

Plain M/T - http://i13.tinypic.com/81qf19h.jpg

Haunched M/T - http://i8.tinypic.com/7xbjleo.jpg

Tools required:

Drill and bit of the correct size.
A couple of chisels:
Hammer:
Saw.
Set Square.
Mortice gauge (optional as this can be set out with a sliding set square).
Bench or workmate.
A bit of patience.

What frame fixings shall I use: are some more secure than others?

Simple wall plugs and screws - of the correct size.

Hope this gives you some idea Fred.


Brian G

On 17 Dec, 16:12, Fred wrote:
Hello,

I am needing to construct a door frame for a 7'x7' garage door. Any
pointers on how to make the strongest best frame possible?

The timber merchant advised me to use 3"x3" wood and to treat it
myself. He said anything bigger would be too big and heavy. Do you
agree?

Is any treatment better than any other?

Another merchant said not to take the frame to ground level so it does
not get damp, but I'm not sure that I can do this; after all, if I
leave a gap, doesn't that give thieves a point to insert a crow bar?

How do I make a suitable mortise? is it time to buy a router? How deep
should the mortise be?

What frame fixings shall I use: are some more secure than others?

Thank you very much.

This is quite a heavy door to make of wood. Think of your front door
- have you ever taken it off and rehung it - and then double it plus
as with that size you will need not only a centre brace but cross
bracing to that as well to keep it square. If it is indeed an 'up and
over', how do know that the springs are strong enough to take a wooden
door ?

If you haven't done any major wood work before, this is a bit of an
ambitious project to start on. If I was doing this, and I've recently
built 4 shed doors, I would go and find a friendly carpenter/joiner/
cabinet maker to give me some advise on timber size, joints,
bracing ,etc. even with my level of hands-on experience - and I have
routers, bench circular saw, etc.

I need too think how to word this tactfully, but basically the lack of
detail and variability of the advise so far given would make me think
that those giving advise so far have not undertaken such a task and
are trying to be helpful. Anyone who had built such a structure, or
anything near it, would know exactly the suitable timber sizes, etc.

So my advise - go and get some from a professional.

Rob
Rob

There are other forums where there are specialist areas to ask such
questions - DIYNot.com, and the woodworking section of
ukworkshop.co.uk.

On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 18:35:06 -0000, "Brian G"
wrote:

You can use Vac-Vac treated or tanalised timber for the frame as both can be
painted.

I called a couple of local merchants but they could only supply
untreated wood.

How do I make a suitable mortise? is it time to buy a router? How deep
should the mortise be?

Don't bother forking out for a router - inmy opinion it is next to useless
for a job like this.

Thanks for the links.

I think there is some confusion here about what I am trying to do. To
clarify I had a metal canopy door which has broken (see my other
post). It had been problematic for a while so we decided to replace
the whole thing. To clarify it will be an off-the-shelf metal canopy
door but it needs a sturdy wooden frame. I think the other reply
suggests I am making an up-and-over door, I'm not, it's just the frame
that I will be making.

Thanks.