Just redecorated our living room. After we'd put all the furniture back, I
noticed that there was a screw in the wall where we are no longer going to
hang a picture, (due to new furniture etc).

I removed the screw, filled the hole, and rubbed down. This left a patch of
wall about 40 mm square that needed repainting. I got out the paint I'd used
to decorate and painted over the patch. The paint has a silk finish, but after
it dried it left a matt border around the patch. I repainted, going out a
little further, guess what ? Now I've got a 100 mm square patch, with a matt
border.

What has gone wrong, I've done this many times before, and never been able to
see the join, even a couple of years after the original paint job. The paint
is just bog standard Dulux Silk Emulsion, at this rate I'm going to have to
re-paint the whole wall again.

Any ideas how I can fix ?

--
Mark
Please replace invalid and invalid with gmx and net to reply.

On Wed, 28 Nov 2007 21:56:36 +0000, Mark Carver
wrote:

Just redecorated our living room. After we'd put all the furniture back, I
noticed that there was a screw in the wall where we are no longer going to
hang a picture, (due to new furniture etc).

I removed the screw, filled the hole, and rubbed down. This left a patch of
wall about 40 mm square that needed repainting. I got out the paint I'd used
to decorate and painted over the patch. The paint has a silk finish, but after
it dried it left a matt border around the patch. I repainted, going out a
little further, guess what ? Now I've got a 100 mm square patch, with a matt
border.

What has gone wrong, I've done this many times before, and never been able to
see the join, even a couple of years after the original paint job. The paint
is just bog standard Dulux Silk Emulsion, at this rate I'm going to have to
re-paint the whole wall again.

Any ideas how I can fix ?

Find a new picture to go over it?

--
http://www.orderonlinepickupinstore.co.uk
Ah fetch it yourself if you can't wait for delivery
http://www.freedeliveryuk.co.uk
Or get it delivered for free

Mark Carver wrote:
Just redecorated our living room. After we'd put all the furniture back,
I noticed that there was a screw in the wall where we are no longer
going to hang a picture, (due to new furniture etc).

I removed the screw, filled the hole, and rubbed down. This left a patch
of wall about 40 mm square that needed repainting. I got out the paint
I'd used to decorate and painted over the patch. The paint has a silk
finish, but after it dried it left a matt border around the patch. I
repainted, going out a little further, guess what ? Now I've got a 100
mm square patch, with a matt border.

What has gone wrong, I've done this many times before, and never been
able to see the join, even a couple of years after the original paint
job. The paint is just bog standard Dulux Silk Emulsion, at this rate
I'm going to have to re-paint the whole wall again.

Any ideas how I can fix ?

Well at lest you didn';t do what I did this morning. Grab the paint
start slapping it around and then notice it smelt odd..
I had slapped Farrow and Ball eggshell *oil* paint on instead of emulsion!

I've painted over it with emulsion: hope it works..

However, back to your point...the new paint is showing up a shade
cleaner than the old. I'm going to let it dry completely. Hope that
section of wall doesn't have to be totally redone.

Mark Carver wrote:
Just redecorated our living room. After we'd put all the furniture back,
I noticed that there was a screw in the wall where we are no longer
going to hang a picture, (due to new furniture etc).

I removed the screw, filled the hole, and rubbed down. This left a patch
of wall about 40 mm square that needed repainting. I got out the paint
I'd used to decorate and painted over the patch. The paint has a silk
finish, but after it dried it left a matt border around the patch. I
repainted, going out a little further, guess what ? Now I've got a 100
mm square patch, with a matt border.

What has gone wrong, I've done this many times before, and never been
able to see the join, even a couple of years after the original paint
job. The paint is just bog standard Dulux Silk Emulsion, at this rate
I'm going to have to re-paint the whole wall again.

Any ideas how I can fix ?

Not sure if this will work, but it has worked very successfully in
another job.

Take a 2 inch cube of clean foam (end of a small cheap bath sponge
should work) and dab one side into the paint, to load it. Starting at
the center, work outwards, rotating around the center of the spot, until
you run out of paint. This point should be after the outside of the
mark. If you run out of paint before this point, start again at the
middle and work outwards that much faster The net result is a shading,
by thickness, of the paint.

I hope it works for you.

Dave

Dave wrote:

Mark Carver wrote:

Just redecorated our living room. After we'd put all the furniture
back, I noticed that there was a screw in the wall where we are no
longer going to hang a picture, (due to new furniture etc).

I removed the screw, filled the hole, and rubbed down. This left a
patch of wall about 40 mm square that needed repainting. I got out the
paint I'd used to decorate and painted over the patch. The paint has a
silk finish, but after it dried it left a matt border around the
patch. I repainted, going out a little further, guess what ? Now I've
got a 100 mm square patch, with a matt border.

What has gone wrong, I've done this many times before, and never been
able to see the join, even a couple of years after the original paint
job. The paint is just bog standard Dulux Silk Emulsion, at this rate
I'm going to have to re-paint the whole wall again.

Any ideas how I can fix ?

Not sure if this will work, but it has worked very successfully in
another job.

Take a 2 inch cube of clean foam (end of a small cheap bath sponge
should work) and dab one side into the paint, to load it. Starting at
the center, work outwards, rotating around the center of the spot, until
you run out of paint. This point should be after the outside of the
mark. If you run out of paint before this point, start again at the
middle and work outwards that much faster The net result is a shading,
by thickness, of the paint.

I hope it works for you.

Dave
I should have specified a dabbing effect when painting, not the
rotational effect that my post implied.

Dave

On Nov 29, 12:32 am, Dave wrote:

Take a 2 inch cube of clean foam (end of a small cheap bath sponge
should work) and dab one side into the paint, to load it. Starting at
the center, work outwards, rotating around the center of the spot, until
you run out of paint. This point should be after the outside of the
mark. If you run out of paint before this point, start again at the
middle and work outwards that much faster The net result is a shading,
by thickness, of the paint.

Just before we sold our house, I had to re-paint parts of the master
bedroom walls, not least because the staircase for the new loft
conversion had intruded. I had also filled the screw holes from some
hand-built shelving that was taking with me.I took a strip of yellow-
painted lining paper from the wall, to the paint matching thingy in
B&Q. The paint I got as a result looked OK as it went on, but once it
had dried, it was distinctly more lemony than the original paint. I
ended up painting half of two walls, using windows as the dividing
point, and one wall in the bay alongside a chimney breast. Where the
two paints met, I feathered it over a large area. I could see the
difference clearly, but such are the variations of natural light and
shade in the room, it's not immediately obvious. I wonder if the new
owners have noticed yet...

Regards
Richard

"geraldthehamster" wrote in message
...
On Nov 29, 12:32 am, Dave wrote:

Take a 2 inch cube of clean foam (end of a small cheap bath sponge
should work) and dab one side into the paint, to load it. Starting at
the center, work outwards, rotating around the center of the spot, until
you run out of paint. This point should be after the outside of the
mark. If you run out of paint before this point, start again at the
middle and work outwards that much faster The net result is a shading,
by thickness, of the paint.

Just before we sold our house, I had to re-paint parts of the master
bedroom walls, not least because the staircase for the new loft
conversion had intruded. I had also filled the screw holes from some
hand-built shelving that was taking with me.I took a strip of yellow-
painted lining paper from the wall, to the paint matching thingy in
B&Q. The paint I got as a result looked OK as it went on, but once it
had dried, it was distinctly more lemony than the original paint. I
ended up painting half of two walls, using windows as the dividing
point, and one wall in the bay alongside a chimney breast. Where the
two paints met, I feathered it over a large area. I could see the
difference clearly, but such are the variations of natural light and
shade in the room, it's not immediately obvious. I wonder if the new
owners have noticed yet...

Regards
Richard

They've probably repainted it and didn't care anyway because they don't like
your ghastly colours! (ie they are not their ghastly colours) )


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

Dave wrote:

Take a 2 inch cube of clean foam (end of a small cheap bath sponge
should work) and dab one side into the paint, to load it. Starting at
the center, work outwards, rotating around the center of the spot,
until you run out of paint. This point should be after the outside of
the mark. If you run out of paint before this point, start again at
the middle and work outwards that much faster The net result is a
shading, by thickness, of the paint.
I should have specified a dabbing effect when painting, not the
rotational effect that my post implied.

Thanks Dave,

Tried that, and it's done the trick. Now the lamp shades are back on it's
impossible to spot what I've done, despite knowing I've done it. In daylight
today, and before I tried your trick, I couldn't see the problem anyway.

Thanks for all of the replies.


--
Mark
Please replace invalid and invalid with gmx and net to reply.

geraldthehamster wrote:
On Nov 29, 12:32 am, Dave wrote:


Take a 2 inch cube of clean foam (end of a small cheap bath sponge
should work) and dab one side into the paint, to load it. Starting at
the center, work outwards, rotating around the center of the spot, until
you run out of paint. This point should be after the outside of the
mark. If you run out of paint before this point, start again at the
middle and work outwards that much faster The net result is a shading,
by thickness, of the paint.


Just before we sold our house, I had to re-paint parts of the master
bedroom walls, not least because the staircase for the new loft
conversion had intruded. I had also filled the screw holes from some
hand-built shelving that was taking with me.I took a strip of yellow-
painted lining paper from the wall, to the paint matching thingy in
B&Q. The paint I got as a result looked OK as it went on, but once it
had dried, it was distinctly more lemony than the original paint. I
ended up painting half of two walls, using windows as the dividing
point, and one wall in the bay alongside a chimney breast. Where the
two paints met, I feathered it over a large area. I could see the
difference clearly, but such are the variations of natural light and
shade in the room, it's not immediately obvious. I wonder if the new
owners have noticed yet...

LOL

When I had the caretakers job at school, I had one corridor that had 4
different shades of yellow on the walls. No one ever noticed :-)

Dave