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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#41
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Damp course for victorian terraced house
On 1 Nov, 16:08, Pete C wrote:
On Nov 1, 11:58 am, wrote: Dear meow2, Particulars (of misinformation) please? Chris G Don't worry he's a period property 'loony' Interesting site here BTW: http://www.konrad-fischer-info.de/2auffen.htm cheers, Pete. Thank you Pete for your kind explanation. I was a bit suprised at the unfounded nature of the allegation and look forward to a reasoned response with facts and/or supportive evidence to substantiate what meow2 has said about my post. Absent that, readers will be able to make their own judgements. As a scientist I am always willing to listen to a reasoned argument and change my mind. Chris G |
#42
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Damp course for victorian terraced house
On 30 Oct, 18:02, wrote:
3) get at least three free surveys - select using the following criteria a) full members of the PCA (ex BWPDA) b) offering GPT back up guarantee c) most importantly insist the surveyor has the CSRT qualifiation these three will not ensure you get a good survey but will cut out an awful lot of crap Not misinformation, per se, as you could actually do this and get the right result for the building. Not the best in information either though is it? If you did this there is a very strong likelihood you would get 3 quotes for work. You are essentially recommending that if you think you may have rising damp get an opinion from 3 commissioned sellers of them to check. Now one may be honest, but thats a risk as big as suggesting you get 3 doubleglazing salesmen to give you an honest appraisal of your windows. How about suggesting that the person pay for a destructive test to confirm the wall is actually damp, rather than go through the whole: resistance meter SUGGESTS it's damp, put a cDPC in wall is still showing signs of damp attempt to claim on lovely GPT backed guarentee CSRT qualified surveyor turns up again and this time does a destructive test on the wall destructive test DETERMINES its damp (...or not) process? Surely that has to be better than relying on commissioned salesmen and risking uneccessary works? Disclaimer: I undertake the works described, am not currently a PCA member because the company I work for is not. The PCA has independent non-commissioned surveyors listed on their website. There are excellent surveyors working for companies that make them sell on commission, promoting free surveys perpetuates the problems described in this thread, worse still: promoting companies that have a commissioned sales business model perpetuates the poor public perception of the industry as a whole. My opinion, not necessarily that of the company I work for. M Green |
#43
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Damp course for victorian terraced house
wrote:
On 31 Oct, 10:57, wrote: wrote: On 29 Oct, 12:14, "Chris Styles" wrote: Hi, A friend is looking to buy a Victorian Terraced house, and it doesn't have a damp course. After spinning her an elaborate story about having the entire house sliced out of the terrace and lifted up on blocks while a damp course is fitted, I promised to ask around to find out how much she should expect to pay to have a chemical DPC done. I seem to recall someone else having the chemical DPC, and it requiring a certain amount of replastering to be done after, because the plaster had to be stripped back at the bottom of the wall. Is this normal (or even anything to do with the DPC?) Any hints, tips gratefully received. Chris Dear Chris An awful lot of unscientific, unsubtantiated assertions are made about rising damp. You do not have to look further than the opinions expressed above to get a feel of it. As best I can I will give you a resume of what happens. Rising damp is caused by the migration of a solution of inorganic salts from the ground into the plaster and bricks of a wall over a long period of time - decades. It is NOT water per se that is the problem but the water that is abstracted from the atmosphere at times of high RH. The reason the BRE experiment did not work is probably because the chaps doing it could not reproduce the conditions in a building over a period of say 50 years. I happen to know most of them and they are not the only ones to have tried the idea of putting brick columns in ponds of water and testing dpcs this way. ~The University of the South Bank did a similar experiment with similar lack of sucess and drew a disimilar conclusion. Rising damp does exist. It is not particularly rare. The problem is the specialists do egg it a lot and class bridged dpcs and latereral penetration as rising damp. That may account for more than 50% of the houses treated - unnecessarily! Plastering is NOT always needed and not necessarily for 1 m - the standard distance. That is normally to protect the interests of the company rather than the client. When my firm was contracting in this field (1979) we did it for 1 year and decided that it was simply not worth doing because the profit margin was too low and most of the houses we visited did not have true rising damp needing treatment. We got calls out for condensation - pipe leaks - bridge dpcs - you name it! your friend needs to do several things 1) establish that there really is no dpc - they have been mandatory since 1886 and could have been bridged by soil and concrete paths 2) IF NO dpc - then borrow or buy a damp meter and plot readings in all walls on an isometric sketch of the affected areas over a period of several months at times of high and low RH. Any variation in the tide mark indicates RD. There should be a pattern of readings starting from the top of no damp at say 1 m down to very damp at say 800 mm then slightly damp below that at the top of the skirting. check the skirtings - are they wet (greater than say 14 w/w ) if so you may have some form of dampness 3) get at least three free surveys - select using the following criteria a) full members of the PCA (ex BWPDA) b) offering GPT back up guarantee c) most importantly insist the surveyor has the CSRT qualifiation these three will not ensure you get a good survey but will cut out an awful lot of crap 4) USE YOUR COMMONSENSE in intermpreting the results and dont take them as Gospel - most firms have their intersts at heart 5) If there is dampness but the plaster is not visually damaged - take a risk - put in the dpc but delay the replastering for a year and see if it dries out - that saves a lot of money 6) understand that the rising damp does not occur in the bricks so drilling the bricks is a waste of time- It occurs in the mortar. Ask the firm if they drill the bricks (trick question) If they say "Yes" show them the door and explain that you wanted someone who understood they needed to drill the mortar not the brick to put the hydrophobic layer in the mortar 7) the best dpc (in my opinion) is one using a silane based compound - trade name "Dryzone" from Safeguard Chemicals - you can buy it and diy See the website Costs - these vary from firm to firm but a good diy can negotiate reductions by taking off skirtings where needed for them and doing the hacking off themselves 8) read up on the BWPDA (now PCA) code of practice for DPC s which is similar to that of the BS which is also worth reading Both are a bit out of date but show the principles. Come back to me if you need further help Chris fair bit of misinformationn here too NT- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Dear meow2, Particulars (of misinformation) please? Chris G last time I wrote about this it took a couple of hours, so not really. Theres a damp faq on http://periodpropertyshop.co.uk/phpB...wforum.php?f=1 , but the sites down, and no idea if it'll resurrect or not. Some things just take more than a couple minutes to sum up. NT |
#44
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Damp course for victorian terraced house
On 31 Oct, 08:44, "nightjar" cpb@insert my surname here.me.uk
wrote: The theortical lift in a glass tube of 0.2mm diameter, which should be more effective at producing a straight lift from capillary action than the variable size passageways in a brick, is 14cm, although the theoritcal lift is not normally achieved. That suggests that either you have a reduced force of gravity in your house, or a higher than normal surface tension in your water, or it was not rising damp. There are some big wooden things growing in my garden which suggest that capillary action can be used to raise water a lot higher than 14 inches ... Ian |
#45
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Damp course for victorian terraced house
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Pete C wrote: On Nov 1, 11:58 am, wrote: Dear meow2, Particulars (of misinformation) please? Chris G Don't worry he's a period property 'loony' Interesting site here BTW: http://www.konrad-fischer-info.de/2auffen.htm cheers, Pete. Note two things Early on thee page he says "No ascending dampness by capillarity, but consequence of current splash-water, water sucking cement joints" = rising damp!. Look at the brick wall in the pool of water. Makes my case that modern cement is a DPC in itself . Note he has NOT used lime mortar here. Look at how sodden the brick is UP to the first mortar joint. Whilst I am happy to agree that many so called rising dmp problems are not, in older properties it does exist and is a serous isue IF you want to modernise them. If you leave the chimneys open, burn coal and don't plaster the walls or fit double glazing, why? that's how they were designed in the first place!. Draughty (well ventilated) and heated by a means that would RAPIDLY dehumidify them in winter, and with the windows wide open all summer, and no wood anywheree near the brcks..not that lasts more than 60 years, anyway. I think the buildings probably worked well when they were built, but lime mortar depends on it not oxidising all the way through. As long as the surface film prevents the interior drying out, it probably works as it should. IIRC there are Roman structures where mortar still hasn't fully dried. Unfortunately when it does dry it is no more useful than a mixture of sand and chalk. Frankly a victorian semi or terrace is my idea of hell anyway. I'd pull the ****ers down and build something better on the land personally. Couldn't agree more. Some round here have been done as replicas and, after a few years, you can't tell the difference. I wish someone would do mine. |
#46
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Damp course for victorian terraced house
The Real Doctor wrote:
On 31 Oct, 08:44, "nightjar" cpb@insert my surname here.me.uk wrote: The theortical lift in a glass tube of 0.2mm diameter, which should be more effective at producing a straight lift from capillary action than the variable size passageways in a brick, is 14cm, although the theoritcal lift is not normally achieved. That suggests that either you have a reduced force of gravity in your house, or a higher than normal surface tension in your water, or it was not rising damp. There are some big wooden things growing in my garden which suggest that capillary action can be used to raise water a lot higher than 14 inches ... :-) Ian |
#47
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Damp course for victorian terraced house
Huge wrote:
On 2007-11-02, The Real Doctor wrote: On 31 Oct, 08:44, "nightjar" cpb@insert my surname here.me.uk wrote: The theortical lift in a glass tube of 0.2mm diameter, which should be more effective at producing a straight lift from capillary action than the variable size passageways in a brick, is 14cm, although the theoritcal lift is not normally achieved. That suggests that either you have a reduced force of gravity in your house, or a higher than normal surface tension in your water, or it was not rising damp. There are some big wooden things growing in my garden which suggest that capillary action can be used to raise water a lot higher than 14 inches ... Water does not rise in trees solely by capillary action, I'm afraid. Maybe its the same thing n walls then ;-) |
#48
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Damp course for victorian terraced house
On Nov 1, 4:53 pm, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Pete C wrote: On Nov 1, 11:58 am, wrote: Dear meow2, Particulars (of misinformation) please? Chris G Don't worry he's a period property 'loony' Interesting site here BTW: http://www.konrad-fischer-info.de/2auffen.htm cheers, Pete. Note two things Early on thee page he says "No ascending dampness by capillarity, but consequence of current splash-water, water sucking cement joints" = rising damp!. Look at the brick wall in the pool of water. Makes my case that modern cement is a DPC in itself . Note he has NOT used lime mortar here. Look at how sodden the brick is UP to the first mortar joint. It's very easy to pick a few selective quotes. I suggest you read the rest of the article. MBQ |
#49
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Damp course for victorian terraced house
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#50
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Damp course for victorian terraced house
How about suggesting that the person pay for a destructive test to confirm the wall is actually damp, rather than go through the whole: These might be of use if there is reason to believe there is a damp problem, but doing one simply because a surveyor wants to offload responsibility and a salesman says they want to do some work isnt appropriate imho. Unless theres a realistic reason to believe otherwise, the problem normally isnt damp, its the damp game. NT |
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