Hi, My Mum has a fitted kitchen from the 70's. her gas oven is falling
apart (door doesn't fit etc. She'd like to get it replaced.

I know this is a stupid question, but I'm not entirely sure what you
do. Presumably.

1) If we replace with a gas oven , I buy the oven, get a fitter to
remove the old one and fit a new one.

2) If we replace with an electric one, then same as above but I also
need an electrician to run a new mains spur for the new oven, and the
gas fitter caps off the existing supply

Or do new ovens come with the option of a fitter.


To compound the problem the existing oven is 570mm wide by 850mm tall
which , it appears is no longer a popular size.

any general advice on what seems a bit of a logistical problem, would
be much appreciated.

"jives11" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi, My Mum has a fitted kitchen from the 70's. her gas oven is falling
apart (door doesn't fit etc. She'd like to get it replaced.

I know this is a stupid question, but I'm not entirely sure what you
do. Presumably.

1) If we replace with a gas oven , I buy the oven, get a fitter to
remove the old one and fit a new one.

Yes

2) If we replace with an electric one, then same as above but I also
need an electrician to run a new mains spur for the new oven, and the
gas fitter caps off the existing supply

Many electric ovens only need a 13 amp supply so could be plugged into an
exisitng power point.

It is electric cookers that need their own dedicated higher amperage supply

Or do new ovens come with the option of a fitter.


To compound the problem the existing oven is 570mm wide by 850mm tall
which , it appears is no longer a popular size.

All ovens should fit a standard 600mm wide carcass the dimensions given
often include the fascia which overlaps the side of the carcass

height is incidental as infill or ventilation grill can be fitted at the top
to fill any remaining gap

Hovever 600mm and 850 mm are standard height carcass measurements for
cookers


any general advice on what seems a bit of a logistical problem, would
be much appreciated.

On Wed, 08 Aug 2007 00:03:35 -0700 someone who may be jives11
wrote this:-

2) If we replace with an electric one, then same as above but I also
need an electrician to run a new mains spur for the new oven, and the
gas fitter caps off the existing supply

As has been said, it may well be possible to connect an electric
oven to an existing power circuit, though that depends on the rating
of the oven, the capacity of the circuit and how heavily it is
loaded. If all these are suitable then that will generally be the
cheapest option, though not one I would adopt if doing it myself.

If that is not possible then it is as well to provide a proper
cooker supply of 30A-45A. The cable and fittings will be more
expensive, but the labour is the same compared to a lower rated
supply. This will allow future flexibility in provision of hobs. I
am assuming that the oven and hob are reasonably close together,
within 4m of each other.



--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

On 8 Aug, 10:27, David Hansen wrote:
On Wed, 08 Aug 2007 00:03:35 -0700 someone who may be jives11
wrote this:-

2) If we replace with an electric one, then same as above but I also
need an electrician to run a new mains spur for the new oven, and the
gas fitter caps off the existing supply

As has been said, it may well be possible to connect an electric
oven to an existing power circuit, though that depends on the rating
of the oven, the capacity of the circuit and how heavily it is
loaded. If all these are suitable then that will generally be the
cheapest option, though not one I would adopt if doing it myself.

If that is not possible then it is as well to provide a proper
cooker supply of 30A-45A. The cable and fittings will be more
expensive, but the labour is the same compared to a lower rated
supply. This will allow future flexibility in provision of hobs. I
am assuming that the oven and hob are reasonably close together,
within 4m of each other.

--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

many thanks to all the input. I think the main issue is that the width
on the cavity in the current unit is 570mm and not 600 (this is from
the late 70's)

"jives11" wrote in message
oups.com...
On 8 Aug, 10:27, David Hansen wrote:
On Wed, 08 Aug 2007 00:03:35 -0700 someone who may be jives11
wrote this:-

2) If we replace with an electric one, then same as above but I also
need an electrician to run a new mains spur for the new oven, and the
gas fitter caps off the existing supply

As has been said, it may well be possible to connect an electric
oven to an existing power circuit, though that depends on the rating
of the oven, the capacity of the circuit and how heavily it is
loaded. If all these are suitable then that will generally be the
cheapest option, though not one I would adopt if doing it myself.

If that is not possible then it is as well to provide a proper
cooker supply of 30A-45A. The cable and fittings will be more
expensive, but the labour is the same compared to a lower rated
supply. This will allow future flexibility in provision of hobs. I
am assuming that the oven and hob are reasonably close together,
within 4m of each other.

--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

many thanks to all the input. I think the main issue is that the width
on the cavity in the current unit is 570mm and not 600 (this is from
the late 70's)


Modern cabinets are 600m external dimension so that a 600mm door covers the
edges, the internal dimension is therefore 570mm the difference being 2 x
15mm sides

And as I said previously the oven dimension given may include the width of
the fascia which would overlap the carcass sides. All built in ovens should
fit fine in a 570mm wide cavity

Tony