The wallpaper I put up on new studwork walls in my kitchen and
bathroom, several years ago, has been coming unstuck at the edges,
probably helped by steam from cooking and showering.

The wallpaper was vinyl. What do you think I might have done wrong,
and how can I avoid the same thing happening next time? (I have now
ripped all the peeling wallpaper off and am preparing to re-paper.)

Thank you,

Mike D

Mike D wrote:
The wallpaper I put up on new studwork walls in my kitchen and
bathroom, several years ago, has been coming unstuck at the edges,
probably helped by steam from cooking and showering.

The wallpaper was vinyl.


What do you think I might have done wrong

Put wallpaper up in a kitchen and bathroom.


and how can I avoid the same thing happening next time?

By not putting wallpaper up in kitchens and bathrooms (or anywhere else,
preferably).


I have now ripped all the peeling wallpaper off

That is excellent news.


and am preparing to re-paper.)

And undo all your good work?


--
Grunff
Low temperature Stirling engine:
http://www.shinyshack.com/product.php?prid=211027

On Wed, 20 Jun 2007 16:13:01 +0100, Grunff wrote:

By not putting wallpaper up in kitchens and bathrooms (or anywhere else,
preferably).

Normally, I'd agree, but in this case, it was the easy way to finish a
studwork wall!

I have seen walpaper that has stayed stuck down in a steamy bathroom
with no extractor... so there must be a way to achieve it.

Mike

Mike D wrote:

On Wed, 20 Jun 2007 16:13:01 +0100, Grunff wrote:

By not putting wallpaper up in kitchens and bathrooms (or anywhere else,
preferably).

Normally, I'd agree, but in this case, it was the easy way to finish a
studwork wall!

I have seen walpaper that has stayed stuck down in a steamy bathroom
with no extractor... so there must be a way to achieve it.

Must be, we have thick vinyl paper in our kitchen. It was up when we
moved in back in '99. Still up, still looks good which is why we haven't
changed it.

Peter

--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country
www.the-brights.net

On Wed, 20 Jun 2007 16:13:01 +0100, Grunff wrote:

What do you think I might have done wrong

Put wallpaper up in a kitchen and bathroom.


and how can I avoid the same thing happening next time?

By not putting wallpaper up in kitchens and bathrooms (or anywhere else,
preferably).

The more I think about your comments, the more I am swayed by them!
Is there a really thick emulsion paint that will hide such things as
not-completely-removed wallpaper and not-very-skillful skimmed joints
in plasterboard?

I could use artex, but it seems evident that most people hate artex on
walls.

A really thick emulsion that can be applied with a normal roller would
be a good solution... Anyone know whee I can get some? Or.... does
anyone know of a way to thicken up standard emulsion. (I have gallons
of the stuff; more than I need). Maybe the addition of some kind of
filler powder?

Cheers,

Mike

On 21 Jun, 12:48, Mike D wrote:
On Wed, 20 Jun 2007 16:13:01 +0100, Grunff wrote:
What do you think I might have done wrong

Put wallpaper up in a kitchen and bathroom.

and how can I avoid the same thing happening next time?

By not putting wallpaper up in kitchens and bathrooms (or anywhere else,
preferably).

The more I think about your comments, the more I am swayed by them!
Is there a really thick emulsion paint that will hide such things as
not-completely-removed wallpaper and not-very-skillful skimmed joints
in plasterboard?

I could use artex, but it seems evident that most people hate artex on
walls.

A really thick emulsion that can be applied with a normal roller would
be a good solution... Anyone know whee I can get some? Or.... does
anyone know of a way to thicken up standard emulsion. (I have gallons
of the stuff; more than I need). Maybe the addition of some kind of
filler powder?

Cheers,

Mike

No. Such coatings do exist, but theyre only used in industrial
buildings - with good reason. The results are dreadful. Just skim it.


NT

wrote:
On 21 Jun, 12:48, Mike D wrote:
On Wed, 20 Jun 2007 16:13:01 +0100, Grunff wrote:
What do you think I might have done wrong
Put wallpaper up in a kitchen and bathroom.
and how can I avoid the same thing happening next time?
By not putting wallpaper up in kitchens and bathrooms (or anywhere else,
preferably).
The more I think about your comments, the more I am swayed by them!
Is there a really thick emulsion paint that will hide such things as
not-completely-removed wallpaper and not-very-skillful skimmed joints
in plasterboard?

I could use artex, but it seems evident that most people hate artex on
walls.

A really thick emulsion that can be applied with a normal roller would
be a good solution... Anyone know whee I can get some? Or.... does
anyone know of a way to thicken up standard emulsion. (I have gallons
of the stuff; more than I need). Maybe the addition of some kind of
filler powder?

Cheers,

Mike

No. Such coatings do exist, but theyre only used in industrial
buildings - with good reason. The results are dreadful. Just skim it.


NT


Things like Polyripple are available in the sheds and how they look
depends on the way you apply them. A plain roller will give you the
equivalent of a "thick" emulsion but IME they often highlight
imperfections rather than hide them

On Thu, 21 Jun 2007 05:37:30 -0700, wrote:

A really thick emulsion that can be applied with a normal roller would
be a good solution... Anyone know whee I can get some? Or.... does
anyone know of a way to thicken up standard emulsion. (I have gallons
of the stuff; more than I need). Maybe the addition of some kind of
filler powder?

Cheers,

Mike

No. Such coatings do exist, but theyre only used in industrial
buildings - with good reason. The results are dreadful. Just skim it.

Sounds like a good idea - thanks! You mean a 3mm-thick layer of new
plaster all over? I just wish I knew how. I already have the plaster
and the steel float etc. All I need now is the know-how! Anyone know
of an online crash course in skim-plastering - like a video clip or
something? I'm sure I could quickly learn.

Mike

"Mike D" wrote

The wallpaper I put up on new studwork walls in my kitchen and
bathroom, several years ago, has been coming unstuck at the edges,
probably helped by steam from cooking and showering.

Problems with lack of ventilation in steam filled rooms start with pealing
paper and lead to mildew, mould and other nasties.
Solutions
1. Fit well specified extractors with correct size smooth bore ducts (not
concertina tube) to external exhaust point.
2. Re-paper with good quality adhesive or preferably tile walls.

Phil

On Wed, 20 Jun 2007 16:24:03 +0100, "TheScullster"
wrote:

Re-paper with good quality adhesive

I did look for an adhesive that claimed to be suited to bathrooms,
but was surprised to find nothing at local DIY store. They did have
something called "extra strong", so I bought that. Hopefully if I mix
on the strong side, it'll work better than the last time.

Mike

On Wed, 20 Jun 2007 17:38:54 +0100, Mike D
wrote:

On Wed, 20 Jun 2007 16:24:03 +0100, "TheScullster"
wrote:

Re-paper with good quality adhesive

I did look for an adhesive that claimed to be suited to bathrooms,
but was surprised to find nothing at local DIY store. They did have
something called "extra strong", so I bought that. Hopefully if I mix
on the strong side, it'll work better than the last time.

PS... one thing I (probably) did wrong was overlap the paper. I guess
that was asking for trouble, since I can't see walpaper paste sticking
properly to vinyl. I guess the correct way would be to but the edge of
each strip to the next one, yes?

Mike

Mike D wrote:


PS... one thing I (probably) did wrong was overlap the paper. I guess
that was asking for trouble, since I can't see walpaper paste sticking
properly to vinyl. I guess the correct way would be to but the edge of
each strip to the next one, yes?


Yes. Overlapping may work on paper, but vinyl to vinyl requires a
special adhesive.
How did you manage to match the pattern using overlaps?

When I hung vinyl in my bathroom, I used really heavy-weight stuff, and
pasted the wall, not the paper. Then I carefully matched the pattern,
butted the edges, smoothed - and finally, used a small roller at the
seams, but not TOO vigorously, or too much paste would have squeezed out.

Sheila

On Wed, 20 Jun 2007 13:27:51 -0400, S Viemeister
wrote:

properly to vinyl. I guess the correct way would be to but the edge of
each strip to the next one, yes?


Yes. Overlapping may work on paper, but vinyl to vinyl requires a
special adhesive.
How did you manage to match the pattern using overlaps?

It was a sort of small-scale pattern, so you could overlap it and
still get the pattern to match up.

When I hung vinyl in my bathroom, I used really heavy-weight stuff, and
pasted the wall, not the paper. Then I carefully matched the pattern,
butted the edges, smoothed - and finally, used a small roller at the
seams, but not TOO vigorously, or too much paste would have squeezed out.

Thank you for the tip. I might try something like that.

Mike

S Viemeister wrote:
Mike D wrote:


PS... one thing I (probably) did wrong was overlap the paper. I guess
that was asking for trouble, since I can't see walpaper paste sticking
properly to vinyl. I guess the correct way would be to but the edge of
each strip to the next one, yes?


Yes. Overlapping may work on paper, but vinyl to vinyl requires a
special adhesive.

Pva glue. Pound Shop

How did you manage to match the pattern using overlaps?

When I hung vinyl in my bathroom, I used really heavy-weight stuff, and
pasted the wall, not the paper. Then I carefully matched the pattern,
butted the edges, smoothed - and finally, used a small roller at the
seams, but not TOO vigorously, or too much paste would have squeezed out.

Sheila