Can anyone recommend some kind of sealant or mastik suitable for
sealing cracks and joins in lead flashing?

Thank you,

Drake

In article ,
Drake wrote:
Can anyone recommend some kind of sealant or mastik suitable for
sealing cracks and joins in lead flashing?

Joints should be made in such a way as they don't leak. Cracks usually
mean poor workmanship - too long continuous lengths.

Why not simply replace it? Lead flashing is well within the scope of DIY,
and if done properly should have an extremely long life.

--
*Gargling is a good way to see if your throat leaks.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Thu, 10 May 2007 11:22:27 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

Joints should be made in such a way as they don't leak. Cracks usually
mean poor workmanship - too long continuous lengths.

Why not simply replace it? Lead flashing is well within the scope of DIY,
and if done properly should have an extremely long life.

Thanks for the suggestion but I'm not 100% sure that the overlap in
question is the source of the leak, so I don't want to go to too much
trouble at this stage. I'd like to try sealing the overlap first
rather than go to the trouble of replacing the lead. It is a rather
awkward piece of work, with large sheets of lead - part of the
perimeter of a flat roof.

Cheers,

Drake

On Thu, 10 May 2007 12:30:05 +0100, Drake wrote:

On Thu, 10 May 2007 11:22:27 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

Joints should be made in such a way as they don't leak. Cracks usually
mean poor workmanship - too long continuous lengths.

Why not simply replace it? Lead flashing is well within the scope of DIY,
and if done properly should have an extremely long life.

Thanks for the suggestion but I'm not 100% sure that the overlap in
question is the source of the leak, so I don't want to go to too much
trouble at this stage. I'd like to try sealing the overlap first rather
than go to the trouble of replacing the lead. It is a rather awkward piece
of work, with large sheets of lead - part of the perimeter of a flat roof.

Cheers,

Drake

==================================
'Evostik' flashband (or own brand from Wickes etc.) which comes in
different widths. This is pretty good as an interim repair and if applied
carefully it can last years. But, of course replacement is the best
solution with a life expectancy from lead of about 50 years.

Cic.

--
===================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
===================================

In article ,
Drake wrote:
On Thu, 10 May 2007 11:22:27 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

Joints should be made in such a way as they don't leak. Cracks usually
mean poor workmanship - too long continuous lengths.

Why not simply replace it? Lead flashing is well within the scope of DIY,
and if done properly should have an extremely long life.

Thanks for the suggestion but I'm not 100% sure that the overlap in
question is the source of the leak, so I don't want to go to too much
trouble at this stage. I'd like to try sealing the overlap first
rather than go to the trouble of replacing the lead. It is a rather
awkward piece of work, with large sheets of lead - part of the
perimeter of a flat roof.

If there are cracks in the lead it's likely due to large amounts of
expansion and contraction which should have be allowed for in the sheet
size. And like any expanding metal it has considerable force so I wish you
luck with a sealer.

Cheers,

Drake

--
*Procrastination is the art of keeping up with yesterday.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Thu, 10 May 2007 11:41:20 GMT, Cicero
wrote:

'Evostik' flashband (or own brand from Wickes etc.) which comes in
different widths. This is pretty good as an interim repair and if applied
carefully it can last years.

That sounds worth a try. Thank you!

Drake