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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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robgraham wrote:
On 18 Mar, 16:04, Roger Hunt wrote: Clint Sharp wrote In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes Trouble is, according to the classic car mags, the jury's out on whether they actually work - unless they contain lead which most don't. An old engine builds up a coating of lead and this can last for a long time after the source is removed. You can still buy leaded fuel though. The places that sell it are few and far between but they do exist. http://www.leadedpetrol.co.uk/ -- Roger Hunt Quote from this website :- "That means you can advance the timing and raise the compression ratio or turbo boost higher with leaded petrol than is possible with unleaded or LRP, without detonation. That equals more power from your engine. If you are involved in racing where seconds count, that could be the edge you are looking for." I'm driving a 50 year old single cylinder cultivator !! Do I need to add anything more ? No. Run it on unleaded like everyine else does..and maybe retime it slightly. Those old engines run seriously rich anyway, which is anti-knocking in its own right,. they run low comp, and if the exhaust valve eats burn in another 50 years, there will still be enough metal in them to grind again. Rob |
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