Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
![]() |
|
UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill and plug
the sorrounding wall? Cheers, Rick |
#2
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"R D S" wrote in message
... Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill and plug the sorrounding wall? Cheers, Rick When i fitted a new door opening i tried tacking the architrave at first but i didn't think it was secure enough, i found a combination of tacks and grab adhesive to be best solution. But the walls were brand new and flush..... hope this helps. Tom |
#3
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "R D S" wrote in message ... Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill and plug the sorrounding wall? Cheers, Rick Grab adhesive and "Quick Clamps" |
#4
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]() R D S wrote: Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill and plug the sorrounding wall? Cheers, Rick Gripfill :-) once its gone off you'd have to pull chunks of the wall off if you wanted to remove them !! |
#5
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Mirror plates are good fixings but you'll have to polyfilla over the bit
that goes into the wall. Andy. "Staffbull" wrote in message ups.com... R D S wrote: Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill and plug the sorrounding wall? Cheers, Rick Gripfill :-) once its gone off you'd have to pull chunks of the wall off if you wanted to remove them !! |
#6
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
R D S wrote:
Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill and plug the sorrounding wall? Cheers, Rick tack it to the casing - it's there for decorative purposes only and doesn't need to be solid...fixing it to the casing minimises gaps when the timber dries / shrinks / both - if it's fixed to the wall, expect gaps |
#7
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
R D S wrote: Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill and plug the sorrounding wall? Cheers, Rick Tack it to the door frame. If it's narrow, it will only *just* overlap the brick/plaster - so there's no scope for fixing to that. -- Cheers, Roger ______ Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks. PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP! |
#8
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Roger Mills wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion, R D S wrote: Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill and plug the sorrounding wall? Cheers, Rick Tack it to the door frame. If it's narrow, it will only *just* overlap the brick/plaster - so there's no scope for fixing to that. Most architrave is 2-3" wide. Gripfil gives you time to line up the mitres properly. I can't see that any other fixing is required |
#9
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Stuart Noble wrote: Roger Mills wrote: In an earlier contribution to this discussion, R D S wrote: Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill and plug the sorrounding wall? Cheers, Rick Tack it to the door frame. If it's narrow, it will only *just* overlap the brick/plaster - so there's no scope for fixing to that. Most architrave is 2-3" wide. Gripfil gives you time to line up the mitres properly. I can't see that any other fixing is required 3" is bl**dy wide for architrave - my skirting boards are only 3"! Most of the acrchitraves in my house are a bit under 1 1/4" so, when fitted to a 1" wide frame 1/4" back from the inner edge, there is about 3/4" on the frame and 1/2" extending over the frame/plaster joint. There's no problem lining up the mitres - just fit the verticals before cutting the mitres on the horizontal bit at the top. -- Cheers, Roger ______ Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks. PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP! |
#10
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Phil L wrote: R D S wrote: Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill and plug the sorrounding wall? Cheers, Rick tack it to the casing - it's there for decorative purposes only and doesn't need to be solid...fixing it to the casing minimises gaps when the timber dries / shrinks / both - if it's fixed to the wall, expect gaps I've seen a home gym apparatus that clamps onto the architrave and is designed to hold an adult's weight. Let alone how much you will weigh with all those extra stones of muscle they promise ! Simon. |
#11
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
sm_jamieson wrote: Phil L wrote: R D S wrote: Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill and plug the sorrounding wall? Cheers, Rick tack it to the casing - it's there for decorative purposes only and doesn't need to be solid...fixing it to the casing minimises gaps when the timber dries / shrinks / both - if it's fixed to the wall, expect gaps I've seen a home gym apparatus that clamps onto the architrave and is designed to hold an adult's weight. Let alone how much you will weigh with all those extra stones of muscle they promise ! Simon. If it clamps right through the doorway onto the architrave both sides it should be ok. If it only clamps to *one* piece of architrave I wouldn't fancy it - *however* the architrave is attacked to the frame! -- Cheers, Roger ______ Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks. PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP! |
#12
![]()
Posted to uk.d-i-y
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Roger Mills wrote: In an earlier contribution to this discussion, Stuart Noble wrote: Roger Mills wrote: In an earlier contribution to this discussion, R D S wrote: Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill and plug the sorrounding wall? Cheers, Rick Tack it to the door frame. If it's narrow, it will only *just* overlap the brick/plaster - so there's no scope for fixing to that. Most architrave is 2-3" wide. Gripfil gives you time to line up the mitres properly. I can't see that any other fixing is required 3" is bl**dy wide for architrave - my skirting boards are only 3"! Most of the acrchitraves in my house are a bit under 1 1/4" so, when fitted to a 1" wide frame 1/4" back from the inner edge, there is about 3/4" on the frame and 1/2" extending over the frame/plaster joint. There's no problem lining up the mitres - just fit the verticals before cutting the mitres on the horizontal bit at the top. -- Cheers, Roger ______ Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks. PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP! my architrave is 3" taurus to mate with the 6" taurus skirtings. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Laminate flooring under door architrave | UK diy | |||
2 gang architrave blanking plate | UK diy | |||
Victorian Architrave | UK diy | |||
Retro fitting TRV's - new valve fitting type | UK diy | |||
Laminate Floor and Architrave Question | UK diy |