Fitting architrave
 

Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill and plug
the sorrounding wall?

Cheers,


Rick

Fitting architrave
 

"R D S" wrote in message
...
Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill and
plug the sorrounding wall?

Cheers,


Rick
When i fitted a new door opening i tried tacking the architrave at first but
i didn't think it was secure enough, i found a combination of tacks and grab
adhesive to be best solution. But the walls were brand new and flush.....
hope this helps.

Tom

Fitting architrave
 

"R D S" wrote in message
...
Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill and
plug the sorrounding wall?

Cheers,


Rick

Grab adhesive and "Quick Clamps"

Fitting architrave
 

R D S wrote:
Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill and plug
the sorrounding wall?

Cheers,


Rick

Gripfill :-) once its gone off you'd have to pull chunks of the wall
off if you wanted to remove them !!

Fitting architrave
 

Mirror plates are good fixings but you'll have to polyfilla over the bit
that goes into the wall.

Andy.

"Staffbull" wrote in message
ups.com...

R D S wrote:
Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill and
plug
the sorrounding wall?

Cheers,


Rick

Gripfill :-) once its gone off you'd have to pull chunks of the wall
off if you wanted to remove them !!

Fitting architrave
 

R D S wrote:
Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill
and plug the sorrounding wall?

Cheers,


Rick

tack it to the casing - it's there for decorative purposes only and doesn't
need to be solid...fixing it to the casing minimises gaps when the timber
dries / shrinks / both - if it's fixed to the wall, expect gaps

Fitting architrave
 

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
R D S wrote:

Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill
and plug the sorrounding wall?

Cheers,


Rick

Tack it to the door frame. If it's narrow, it will only *just* overlap the
brick/plaster - so there's no scope for fixing to that.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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Fitting architrave
 

Roger Mills wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
R D S wrote:

Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill
and plug the sorrounding wall?

Cheers,


Rick

Tack it to the door frame. If it's narrow, it will only *just* overlap the
brick/plaster - so there's no scope for fixing to that.

Most architrave is 2-3" wide. Gripfil gives you time to line up the
mitres properly. I can't see that any other fixing is required

Fitting architrave
 

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Stuart Noble wrote:

Roger Mills wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
R D S wrote:

Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill
and plug the sorrounding wall?

Cheers,


Rick

Tack it to the door frame. If it's narrow, it will only *just*
overlap the brick/plaster - so there's no scope for fixing to that.

Most architrave is 2-3" wide. Gripfil gives you time to line up the
mitres properly. I can't see that any other fixing is required

3" is bl**dy wide for architrave - my skirting boards are only 3"!

Most of the acrchitraves in my house are a bit under 1 1/4" so, when fitted
to a 1" wide frame 1/4" back from the inner edge, there is about 3/4" on the
frame and 1/2" extending over the frame/plaster joint. There's no problem
lining up the mitres - just fit the verticals before cutting the mitres on
the horizontal bit at the top.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

Fitting architrave
 

Phil L wrote:

R D S wrote:
Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill
and plug the sorrounding wall?

Cheers,


Rick

tack it to the casing - it's there for decorative purposes only and doesn't
need to be solid...fixing it to the casing minimises gaps when the timber
dries / shrinks / both - if it's fixed to the wall, expect gaps

I've seen a home gym apparatus that clamps onto the architrave and is
designed to hold an adult's weight.
Let alone how much you will weigh with all those extra stones of muscle
they promise !
Simon.

Fitting architrave
 

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
sm_jamieson wrote:

Phil L wrote:

R D S wrote:
Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill
and plug the sorrounding wall?

Cheers,


Rick

tack it to the casing - it's there for decorative purposes only and
doesn't need to be solid...fixing it to the casing minimises gaps
when the timber dries / shrinks / both - if it's fixed to the wall,
expect gaps

I've seen a home gym apparatus that clamps onto the architrave and is
designed to hold an adult's weight.
Let alone how much you will weigh with all those extra stones of
muscle they promise !
Simon.

If it clamps right through the doorway onto the architrave both sides it
should be ok.

If it only clamps to *one* piece of architrave I wouldn't fancy it -
*however* the architrave is attacked to the frame!
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

Fitting architrave
 

Roger Mills wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Stuart Noble wrote:

Roger Mills wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
R D S wrote:

Is it better to tack architrave to the door/window casing or drill
and plug the sorrounding wall?

Cheers,


Rick

Tack it to the door frame. If it's narrow, it will only *just*
overlap the brick/plaster - so there's no scope for fixing to that.

Most architrave is 2-3" wide. Gripfil gives you time to line up the
mitres properly. I can't see that any other fixing is required

3" is bl**dy wide for architrave - my skirting boards are only 3"!

Most of the acrchitraves in my house are a bit under 1 1/4" so, when fitted
to a 1" wide frame 1/4" back from the inner edge, there is about 3/4" on the
frame and 1/2" extending over the frame/plaster joint. There's no problem
lining up the mitres - just fit the verticals before cutting the mitres on
the horizontal bit at the top.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

my architrave is 3" taurus to mate with the 6" taurus skirtings.