ARWadsworth wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article m,
wrote:
Doubling up two of these cables is cost
effective as heavy direct burial cable is expensive.

Good grief.

At TLC prices 2.5mm TW&E is 0.97 gbp a metre. Assuming you want twice the
current carrying capacity, 6mm SWA is 1.60 a metre. And TW&E will require
additional protection.

Seems to me you've been listening to 'two combis' dribble too much.

I was wondering how the heating pipes were going to be laid between the
house and the garage, if the boiler is going to be used to heat the house.

Adam

Thanks to all. I will use one 6mm cable and a garage CU. I assume this
can enter via an angled hole through the footings rather than up from
the ground and through the wall. Is that so?

I am thinking of taking the water pipes underground through a 110mm
plastic pipe, with the water pipes being plastic, fully insulated and
500 mm deep. It will be simple enough to do, apart from some digging,
and save a lot of space in the house. It looks to be well worth it for
the space gains.

Thanks and happy new year to everyone on uk.d-i-y.

On 2007-01-01 18:13:24 +0000, said:


ARWadsworth wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article m,
wrote:
Doubling up two of these cables is cost
effective as heavy direct burial cable is expensive.

Good grief.

At TLC prices 2.5mm TW&E is 0.97 gbp a metre. Assuming you want twice the
current carrying capacity, 6mm SWA is 1.60 a metre. And TW&E will require
additional protection.

Seems to me you've been listening to 'two combis' dribble too much.

I was wondering how the heating pipes were going to be laid between the
house and the garage, if the boiler is going to be used to heat the house.

Adam

Thanks to all. I will use one 6mm cable and a garage CU. I assume this
can enter via an angled hole through the footings rather than up from
the ground and through the wall. Is that so?

I am thinking of taking the water pipes underground through a 110mm
plastic pipe, with the water pipes being plastic, fully insulated and
500 mm deep. It will be simple enough to do, apart from some digging,
and save a lot of space in the house. It looks to be well worth it for
the space gains.

Thanks and happy new year to everyone on uk.d-i-y.

A few tips here (because I've done it)....

- 110mm pipe will not be large enough to fit two 22mm pipes with a
respectable amount
of insulation. The recommended amount of insulation is at least the
diameter of the pipes
so this comes to 66mm all up for each one. Standard insulation
thicknesses appear to be 9, 13, 19
and 25mm. You would have to go down to 9mm, which is not enough.
I used 160mm and there was then plenty of room.

- I used plastic barrier pipe in coil form and threaded it through so
that there were no joints in the underground
section. There needed to be one pipe elbow at one end and two at the
other. To assemble everything, it proved easiest to insulate and tape
each pipe and then to tape the two together at regular intervals to
make a bundle.
This was easy to thread through the underground soil pipe. The elbows
were put on afterwards with the pipe having been warmed wih hot water
first. It's much easier this way than trying to thread the individual
pipes through or to push or pull the bundle though.

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-01-01 18:13:24 +0000, said:


ARWadsworth wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article m,
wrote:
Doubling up two of these cables is cost
effective as heavy direct burial cable is expensive.

Good grief.

At TLC prices 2.5mm TW&E is 0.97 gbp a metre. Assuming you want twice
the
current carrying capacity, 6mm SWA is 1.60 a metre. And TW&E will
require
additional protection.

Seems to me you've been listening to 'two combis' dribble too much.

I was wondering how the heating pipes were going to be laid between the
house and the garage, if the boiler is going to be used to heat the
house.

Adam

Thanks to all. I will use one 6mm cable and a garage CU. I assume this
can enter via an angled hole through the footings rather than up from
the ground and through the wall. Is that so?

I am thinking of taking the water pipes underground through a 110mm
plastic pipe, with the water pipes being plastic, fully insulated and
500 mm deep. It will be simple enough to do, apart from some digging,
and save a lot of space in the house. It looks to be well worth it for
the space gains.

Thanks and happy new year to everyone on uk.d-i-y.

A few tips here (because I've done it)....

- 110mm pipe will not be large enough to fit two 22mm pipes with a
respectable amount
of insulation. The recommended amount of insulation is at least the
diameter of the pipes
so this comes to 66mm all up for each one. Standard insulation
thicknesses appear to be 9, 13, 19
and 25mm. You would have to go down to 9mm, which is not enough.
I used 160mm and there was then plenty of room.

- I used plastic barrier pipe in coil form and threaded it through so that
there were no joints in the underground
section. There needed to be one pipe elbow at one end and two at the
other. To assemble everything, it proved easiest to insulate and tape
each pipe and then to tape the two together at regular intervals to make a
bundle.
This was easy to thread through the underground soil pipe. The elbows
were put on afterwards with the pipe having been warmed wih hot water
first. It's much easier this way than trying to thread the individual
pipes through or to push or pull the bundle though.

Matt, you have been on the new years pop. You said you taped the pipes
together and pushed it through. Is that so? You can get larger plastic
undergound pipes than 110mm. Put on the thickest lagging you can and fill
the large conduit pipe with vermiculite. It would be beneficial to cover
the underground conduit pipe with underground Jablite foam to prevent heat
loss to the colder earth on the top of the pipe.

On 2007-01-01 19:36:46 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message ...
On 2007-01-01 18:13:24 +0000, said:

A few tips here (because I've done it)....

- 110mm pipe will not be large enough to fit two 22mm pipes with a
respectable amount
of insulation. The recommended amount of insulation is at least the
diameter of the pipes
so this comes to 66mm all up for each one. Standard insulation
thicknesses appear to be 9, 13, 19
and 25mm. You would have to go down to 9mm, which is not enough.
I used 160mm and there was then plenty of room.

- I used plastic barrier pipe in coil form and threaded it through so
that there were no joints in the underground
section. There needed to be one pipe elbow at one end and two at the
other. To assemble everything, it proved easiest to insulate and tape
each pipe and then to tape the two together at regular intervals to
make a bundle.
This was easy to thread through the underground soil pipe. The elbows
were put on afterwards with the pipe having been warmed wih hot water
first. It's much easier this way than trying to thread the individual
pipes through or to push or pull the bundle though.

Matt, you have been on the new years pop.

Boot on other foot or in mouth?


You said you taped the pipes together and pushed it through. Is that
so? You can get larger plastic undergound pipes than 110mm. Put on the
thickest lagging you can and fill the large conduit pipe with
vermiculite. It would be beneficial to cover the underground conduit
pipe with underground Jablite foam to prevent heat loss to the colder
earth on the top of the pipe.

Why don't you read the post before commenting?

1) I proposed insulating each pipe first, *then* taping the two
insulated pipes together. The latter was simply for convenience of
threading the pipes through the drainage pipe. If you try to feed
them separately, the insulation sleeves inevitably rub against one
another over part of the way and it becomes difficult to push the
second pipe through. How do I know this? It's what I tried to begin
with. In the end, I took out the single first pipe and taped the pair
together. After that, feeding the bundled pipe through was easy.

2) I suggested use of 160mm pipe precisely because it allows more
insulation around the pipes.

3) Have you ever done any of this?

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-01-01 19:36:46 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-01-01 18:13:24 +0000, said:

A few tips here (because I've done it)....

- 110mm pipe will not be large enough to fit two 22mm pipes with a
respectable amount
of insulation. The recommended amount of insulation is at least the
diameter of the pipes
so this comes to 66mm all up for each one. Standard insulation
thicknesses appear to be 9, 13, 19
and 25mm. You would have to go down to 9mm, which is not enough.
I used 160mm and there was then plenty of room.

- I used plastic barrier pipe in coil form and threaded it through so
that there were no joints in the underground
section. There needed to be one pipe elbow at one end and two at the
other. To assemble everything, it proved easiest to insulate and tape
each pipe and then to tape the two together at regular intervals to make
a bundle.
This was easy to thread through the underground soil pipe. The elbows
were put on afterwards with the pipe having been warmed wih hot water
first. It's much easier this way than trying to thread the individual
pipes through or to push or pull the bundle though.

Matt, you have been on the new years pop.

Boot on other foot or in mouth?


You said you taped the pipes together and pushed it through. Is that so?
You can get larger plastic undergound pipes than 110mm. Put on the
thickest lagging you can and fill the large conduit pipe with
vermiculite. It would be beneficial to cover the underground conduit
pipe with underground Jablite foam to prevent heat loss to the colder
earth on the top of the pipe.

Why don't you read the post before commenting?

1) I proposed insulating each pipe first, *then* taping the two insulated
pipes together. The latter was simply for convenience of threading the
pipes through the drainage pipe. If you try to feed them separately,
the insulation sleeves inevitably rub against one another over part of the
way and it becomes difficult to push the second pipe through. How do I
know this? It's what I tried to begin with. In the end, I took out the
single first pipe and taped the pair together. After that, feeding the
bundled pipe through was easy.

2) I suggested use of 160mm pipe precisely because it allows more
insulation around the pipes.

3) Have you ever done any of this?

Matt, not like you I'm glad to say.

On 2007-01-01 22:29:22 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message ...
On 2007-01-01 19:36:46 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message ...
On 2007-01-01 18:13:24 +0000, said:

A few tips here (because I've done it)....

- 110mm pipe will not be large enough to fit two 22mm pipes with a
respectable amount
of insulation. The recommended amount of insulation is at least the
diameter of the pipes
so this comes to 66mm all up for each one. Standard insulation
thicknesses appear to be 9, 13, 19
and 25mm. You would have to go down to 9mm, which is not enough.
I used 160mm and there was then plenty of room.

- I used plastic barrier pipe in coil form and threaded it through so
that there were no joints in the underground
section. There needed to be one pipe elbow at one end and two at the
other. To assemble everything, it proved easiest to insulate and tape
each pipe and then to tape the two together at regular intervals to
make a bundle.
This was easy to thread through the underground soil pipe. The elbows
were put on afterwards with the pipe having been warmed wih hot water
first. It's much easier this way than trying to thread the individual
pipes through or to push or pull the bundle though.

Matt, you have been on the new years pop.

Boot on other foot or in mouth?


You said you taped the pipes together and pushed it through. Is that
so? You can get larger plastic undergound pipes than 110mm. Put on the
thickest lagging you can and fill the large conduit pipe with
vermiculite. It would be beneficial to cover the underground conduit
pipe with underground Jablite foam to prevent heat loss to the colder
earth on the top of the pipe.

Why don't you read the post before commenting?

1) I proposed insulating each pipe first, *then* taping the two
insulated pipes together. The latter was simply for convenience of
threading the pipes through the drainage pipe. If you try to feed
them separately, the insulation sleeves inevitably rub against one
another over part of the way and it becomes difficult to push the
second pipe through. How do I know this? It's what I tried to begin
with. In the end, I took out the single first pipe and taped the pair
together. After that, feeding the bundled pipe through was easy.

2) I suggested use of 160mm pipe precisely because it allows more
insulation around the pipes.

3) Have you ever done any of this?

Matt, not like you I'm glad to say.

Not like anything, as far as I can make out....

Of course, we don't need to remind everyone of the "little incident"
with the plastic pipe and the hacksaw, do we? That seems to be your one
and only excursion from the armchair.

On Mon, 1 Jan 2007 22:33:52 +0000, Andy Hall
wrote:

Of course, we don't need to remind everyone of the "little incident"
with the plastic pipe and the hacksaw, do we? That seems to be your one
and only excursion from the armchair.

What "was" this incident? I've seen plenty of references to it, but I
must've missed the original, since a certain person is kf'd and I only
see responses to his postings ...

--
Frank Erskine

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-01-01 22:29:22 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-01-01 19:36:46 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-01-01 18:13:24 +0000, said:

A few tips here (because I've done it)....

- 110mm pipe will not be large enough to fit two 22mm pipes with a
respectable amount
of insulation. The recommended amount of insulation is at least the
diameter of the pipes
so this comes to 66mm all up for each one. Standard insulation
thicknesses appear to be 9, 13, 19
and 25mm. You would have to go down to 9mm, which is not enough.
I used 160mm and there was then plenty of room.

- I used plastic barrier pipe in coil form and threaded it through so
that there were no joints in the underground
section. There needed to be one pipe elbow at one end and two at the
other. To assemble everything, it proved easiest to insulate and
tape each pipe and then to tape the two together at regular intervals
to make a bundle.
This was easy to thread through the underground soil pipe. The elbows
were put on afterwards with the pipe having been warmed wih hot water
first. It's much easier this way than trying to thread the individual
pipes through or to push or pull the bundle though.

Matt, you have been on the new years pop.

Boot on other foot or in mouth?


You said you taped the pipes together and pushed it through. Is that
so? You can get larger plastic undergound pipes than 110mm. Put on the
thickest lagging you can and fill the large conduit pipe with
vermiculite. It would be beneficial to cover the underground conduit
pipe with underground Jablite foam to prevent heat loss to the colder
earth on the top of the pipe.

Why don't you read the post before commenting?

1) I proposed insulating each pipe first, *then* taping the two
insulated pipes together. The latter was simply for convenience of
threading the pipes through the drainage pipe. If you try to feed
them separately, the insulation sleeves inevitably rub against one
another over part of the way and it becomes difficult to push the second
pipe through. How do I know this? It's what I tried to begin with.
In the end, I took out the single first pipe and taped the pair
together. After that, feeding the bundled pipe through was easy.

2) I suggested use of 160mm pipe precisely because it allows more
insulation around the pipes.

3) Have you ever done any of this?

Matt, not like you I'm glad to say.

Not like anything, as far as I can make out....

Matt, you know nothing about these things.

snip tripe by Matt