I am considering installing a cylinder and boiler in a garage. I may
use two 3 kilowatt immersions. I need to take some cable from the
Consumer Unit to the garage underground. Supplying the boiler,
immersion, lights and sockets in there is more than what a direct
burial 2.5mm cable can provide. Doubling up two of these cables is cost
effective as heavy direct burial cable is expensive. Is it within regs
to have these cables on one 42A mcb at the CU and take it to a garage
CU in the garage and then take all the circuits off the Garage CU?
Makes sense to me.

Or is it best to have each cable on an mcb at the CU and no garage CU
with just two isolators as the cable enters the garage?

Any views?

TIA

wrote:

Doubling up two of these cables

If you mean using conductors in parallel on the same circuit, that is
generally frowned on.

heavy direct burial cable is expensive.

1.5mm 2 core SWA £0.88/m
2.5mm 2 core SWA £0.91/m
4.0mm 2 core SWA £1.20/m
6.0mm 2 core SWA £1.60/m

From http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...SWA/index.html
seems proportionately cheaper to me

Or is it best to have each cable on an mcb at the CU and no garage CU
with just two isolators as the cable enters the garage?

If you really want to use multiple cables then that would appear to be a
better way of doing it.

Andy Burns wrote:
wrote:

Doubling up two of these cables

If you mean using conductors in parallel on the same circuit, that is
generally frowned on.

heavy direct burial cable is expensive.

1.5mm 2 core SWA £0.88/m
2.5mm 2 core SWA £0.91/m
4.0mm 2 core SWA £1.20/m
6.0mm 2 core SWA £1.60/m

From http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...SWA/index.html
seems proportionately cheaper to me

Or is it best to have each cable on an mcb at the CU and no garage CU
with just two isolators as the cable enters the garage?

If you really want to use multiple cables then that would appear to be a
better way of doing it.

Thanks Andy. The 6mm 3 core will be difficult to bend. I intend to take
the cable up from the ground and through the wall. Dark coloured
plastic conduit will make it neater rising and going through the wall.
Do you have any recommendations on the conduit to use?

TIA.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
wrote:

I am considering installing a cylinder and boiler in a garage. I may
use two 3 kilowatt immersions. I need to take some cable from the
Consumer Unit to the garage underground. Supplying the boiler,
immersion, lights and sockets in there is more than what a direct
burial 2.5mm cable can provide. Doubling up two of these cables is
cost effective as heavy direct burial cable is expensive. Is it
within regs to have these cables on one 42A mcb at the CU and take it
to a garage CU in the garage and then take all the circuits off the
Garage CU? Makes sense to me.

Or is it best to have each cable on an mcb at the CU and no garage CU
with just two isolators as the cable enters the garage?

Any views?

TIA

Surely, one 6mm SWA cable would be best - and probably cheaper than 2 x
2.5mm cables. The problem with doubling is that if a poor contact develops
where they are connected to the CUs, one cable can end up taking all the
current - and will then overheat.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

Andy Burns wrote:
wrote:

Doubling up two of these cables


If you mean using conductors in parallel on the same circuit, that is
generally frowned on.

But is this any different from a ring main in essence?

heavy direct burial cable is expensive.


1.5mm 2 core SWA £0.88/m
2.5mm 2 core SWA £0.91/m
4.0mm 2 core SWA £1.20/m
6.0mm 2 core SWA £1.60/m

From http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...SWA/index.html
seems proportionately cheaper to me

Or is it best to have each cable on an mcb at the CU and no garage CU
with just two isolators as the cable enters the garage?


If you really want to use multiple cables then that would appear to be a
better way of doing it.

Agreed.

Steve.

On 28 Dec 2006 08:42:43 -0800, wrote:


Thanks Andy. The 6mm 3 core will be difficult to bend. I intend to take
the cable up from the ground and through the wall. Dark coloured
plastic conduit will make it neater rising and going through the wall.
Do you have any recommendations on the conduit to use?

TIA.

Just drill upward at about 60 degrees, below where you want to mount the CU.
Then cold chisel out the inside bends

Andy

In article m,
wrote:
Doubling up two of these cables is cost
effective as heavy direct burial cable is expensive.

Good grief.

At TLC prices 2.5mm TW&E is 0.97 gbp a metre. Assuming you want twice the
current carrying capacity, 6mm SWA is 1.60 a metre. And TW&E will require
additional protection.

Seems to me you've been listening to 'two combis' dribble too much.

--
*If you remember the '60s, you weren't really there

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

wrote:
I am considering installing a cylinder and boiler in a garage. I may
use two 3 kilowatt immersions. I need to take some cable from the
Consumer Unit to the garage underground. Supplying the boiler,
immersion, lights and sockets in there is more than what a direct
burial 2.5mm cable can provide. Doubling up two of these cables is cost
effective as heavy direct burial cable is expensive. Is it within regs
to have these cables on one 42A mcb at the CU and take it to a garage
CU in the garage and then take all the circuits off the Garage CU?
Makes sense to me.

Or is it best to have each cable on an mcb at the CU and no garage CU
with just two isolators as the cable enters the garage?

Any views?

TIA

two 2.5mm cables in a ring main can be protected by a 32A MCB not 42 if
you really meant that. Or did you mean 45? IME you should use one 6mm
subject to volt drop considerations.
Why do you plan to use two immersion heaters especially if you have a
boiler? You need to investigate diversity I think.
Have you thought out your earth / protection system?

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article m,
wrote:
Doubling up two of these cables is cost
effective as heavy direct burial cable is expensive.

Good grief.

At TLC prices 2.5mm TW&E is 0.97 gbp a metre. Assuming you want twice the
current carrying capacity, 6mm SWA is 1.60 a metre. And TW&E will require
additional protection.

Seems to me you've been listening to 'two combis' dribble too much.

I was wondering how the heating pipes were going to be laid between the
house and the garage, if the boiler is going to be used to heat the house.

Adam

In article m,
writes:
I am considering installing a cylinder and boiler in a garage. I may
use two 3 kilowatt immersions. I need to take some cable from the
Consumer Unit to the garage underground. Supplying the boiler,
immersion, lights and sockets in there is more than what a direct
burial 2.5mm cable can provide. Doubling up two of these cables is cost
effective as heavy direct burial cable is expensive. Is it within regs
to have these cables on one 42A mcb at the CU and take it to a garage
CU in the garage and then take all the circuits off the Garage CU?

No.

Or is it best to have each cable on an mcb at the CU and no garage CU
with just two isolators as the cable enters the garage?

Any views?

You have to conform to the "conductors in parallel" part of
the regs. In this case, you could probably do it by using
a pair of ganged breakers at the CU (so if one trips, it
switches off the other too). For more than two cables, you
would normally need a set of ganged breakers at both ends
of the parallel run. However, you will have to sit down and
work out all possible fault scenarios, and that the protective
devices are effective. The harder ones to meet are a short in
the cable near the CU, where the fault current is being back-
fed via the other conductor.

Another factor is that you will have to derate the cables
if you lay two together (derating factor) as they'll heat
each other up.

As someone else already said, you really don't want to go
this route...

--
Andrew Gabriel

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article m,
wrote:
Doubling up two of these cables is cost
effective as heavy direct burial cable is expensive.

Good

You need to eff off. This is for your own good.

In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article m,
wrote:
Doubling up two of these cables is cost
effective as heavy direct burial cable is expensive.

Good

You need to eff off. This is for your own good.

You need to seek treatment if your only contribution to a thread is this.
We all know you had some form of breakdown when you threatened to 'set'
the police on me. Perhaps it's time to go back to the doctor.

--
*Of course I'm against sin; I'm against anything that I'm too old to enjoy.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article m,
wrote:
Doubling up two of these cables is cost
effective as heavy direct burial cable is expensive.

Good

You need to eff off. This is for your own good.

You

You really do need to eff off. It will do you the world of good.

Doctor Drivel wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ews.net,
Doctor Drivel wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article m,
wrote:
Doubling up two of these cables is cost
effective as heavy direct burial cable is expensive.

Good

You need to eff off. This is for your own good.

You

You really do need to eff off. It will do you the world of good.

I agree. Dave Plowman should eff off as he is only of nusiance value.

ARWadsworth wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article m,
wrote:
Doubling up two of these cables is cost
effective as heavy direct burial cable is expensive.

Good grief.

At TLC prices 2.5mm TW&E is 0.97 gbp a metre. Assuming you want twice the
current carrying capacity, 6mm SWA is 1.60 a metre. And TW&E will require
additional protection.

Seems to me you've been listening to 'two combis' dribble too much.

I was wondering how the heating pipes were going to be laid between the
house and the garage, if the boiler is going to be used to heat the house.

Adam

Thanks to all. I will use one 6mm cable and a garage CU. I assume this
can enter via an angled hole through the footings rather than up from
the ground and through the wall. Is that so?

I am thinking of taking the water pipes underground through a 110mm
plastic pipe, with the water pipes being plastic, fully insulated and
500 mm deep. It will be simple enough to do, apart from some digging,
and save a lot of space in the house. It looks to be well worth it for
the space gains.

Thanks and happy new year to everyone on uk.d-i-y.

Another minor point. If the mains water pipe enters a detached garage,
then underground to the main house will it need a stop cock entering
the house as well as the garage?

On 2007-01-01 18:13:24 +0000, said:


ARWadsworth wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article m,
wrote:
Doubling up two of these cables is cost
effective as heavy direct burial cable is expensive.

Good grief.

At TLC prices 2.5mm TW&E is 0.97 gbp a metre. Assuming you want twice the
current carrying capacity, 6mm SWA is 1.60 a metre. And TW&E will require
additional protection.

Seems to me you've been listening to 'two combis' dribble too much.

I was wondering how the heating pipes were going to be laid between the
house and the garage, if the boiler is going to be used to heat the house.

Adam

Thanks to all. I will use one 6mm cable and a garage CU. I assume this
can enter via an angled hole through the footings rather than up from
the ground and through the wall. Is that so?

I am thinking of taking the water pipes underground through a 110mm
plastic pipe, with the water pipes being plastic, fully insulated and
500 mm deep. It will be simple enough to do, apart from some digging,
and save a lot of space in the house. It looks to be well worth it for
the space gains.

Thanks and happy new year to everyone on uk.d-i-y.

A few tips here (because I've done it)....

- 110mm pipe will not be large enough to fit two 22mm pipes with a
respectable amount
of insulation. The recommended amount of insulation is at least the
diameter of the pipes
so this comes to 66mm all up for each one. Standard insulation
thicknesses appear to be 9, 13, 19
and 25mm. You would have to go down to 9mm, which is not enough.
I used 160mm and there was then plenty of room.

- I used plastic barrier pipe in coil form and threaded it through so
that there were no joints in the underground
section. There needed to be one pipe elbow at one end and two at the
other. To assemble everything, it proved easiest to insulate and tape
each pipe and then to tape the two together at regular intervals to
make a bundle.
This was easy to thread through the underground soil pipe. The elbows
were put on afterwards with the pipe having been warmed wih hot water
first. It's much easier this way than trying to thread the individual
pipes through or to push or pull the bundle though.

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-01-01 18:13:24 +0000, said:


ARWadsworth wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article m,
wrote:
Doubling up two of these cables is cost
effective as heavy direct burial cable is expensive.

Good grief.

At TLC prices 2.5mm TW&E is 0.97 gbp a metre. Assuming you want twice
the
current carrying capacity, 6mm SWA is 1.60 a metre. And TW&E will
require
additional protection.

Seems to me you've been listening to 'two combis' dribble too much.

I was wondering how the heating pipes were going to be laid between the
house and the garage, if the boiler is going to be used to heat the
house.

Adam

Thanks to all. I will use one 6mm cable and a garage CU. I assume this
can enter via an angled hole through the footings rather than up from
the ground and through the wall. Is that so?

I am thinking of taking the water pipes underground through a 110mm
plastic pipe, with the water pipes being plastic, fully insulated and
500 mm deep. It will be simple enough to do, apart from some digging,
and save a lot of space in the house. It looks to be well worth it for
the space gains.

Thanks and happy new year to everyone on uk.d-i-y.

A few tips here (because I've done it)....

- 110mm pipe will not be large enough to fit two 22mm pipes with a
respectable amount
of insulation. The recommended amount of insulation is at least the
diameter of the pipes
so this comes to 66mm all up for each one. Standard insulation
thicknesses appear to be 9, 13, 19
and 25mm. You would have to go down to 9mm, which is not enough.
I used 160mm and there was then plenty of room.

- I used plastic barrier pipe in coil form and threaded it through so that
there were no joints in the underground
section. There needed to be one pipe elbow at one end and two at the
other. To assemble everything, it proved easiest to insulate and tape
each pipe and then to tape the two together at regular intervals to make a
bundle.
This was easy to thread through the underground soil pipe. The elbows
were put on afterwards with the pipe having been warmed wih hot water
first. It's much easier this way than trying to thread the individual
pipes through or to push or pull the bundle though.

Matt, you have been on the new years pop. You said you taped the pipes
together and pushed it through. Is that so? You can get larger plastic
undergound pipes than 110mm. Put on the thickest lagging you can and fill
the large conduit pipe with vermiculite. It would be beneficial to cover
the underground conduit pipe with underground Jablite foam to prevent heat
loss to the colder earth on the top of the pipe.

On 2007-01-01 19:36:46 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message ...
On 2007-01-01 18:13:24 +0000, said:

A few tips here (because I've done it)....

- 110mm pipe will not be large enough to fit two 22mm pipes with a
respectable amount
of insulation. The recommended amount of insulation is at least the
diameter of the pipes
so this comes to 66mm all up for each one. Standard insulation
thicknesses appear to be 9, 13, 19
and 25mm. You would have to go down to 9mm, which is not enough.
I used 160mm and there was then plenty of room.

- I used plastic barrier pipe in coil form and threaded it through so
that there were no joints in the underground
section. There needed to be one pipe elbow at one end and two at the
other. To assemble everything, it proved easiest to insulate and tape
each pipe and then to tape the two together at regular intervals to
make a bundle.
This was easy to thread through the underground soil pipe. The elbows
were put on afterwards with the pipe having been warmed wih hot water
first. It's much easier this way than trying to thread the individual
pipes through or to push or pull the bundle though.

Matt, you have been on the new years pop.

Boot on other foot or in mouth?


You said you taped the pipes together and pushed it through. Is that
so? You can get larger plastic undergound pipes than 110mm. Put on the
thickest lagging you can and fill the large conduit pipe with
vermiculite. It would be beneficial to cover the underground conduit
pipe with underground Jablite foam to prevent heat loss to the colder
earth on the top of the pipe.

Why don't you read the post before commenting?

1) I proposed insulating each pipe first, *then* taping the two
insulated pipes together. The latter was simply for convenience of
threading the pipes through the drainage pipe. If you try to feed
them separately, the insulation sleeves inevitably rub against one
another over part of the way and it becomes difficult to push the
second pipe through. How do I know this? It's what I tried to begin
with. In the end, I took out the single first pipe and taped the pair
together. After that, feeding the bundled pipe through was easy.

2) I suggested use of 160mm pipe precisely because it allows more
insulation around the pipes.

3) Have you ever done any of this?

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-01-01 19:36:46 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-01-01 18:13:24 +0000, said:

A few tips here (because I've done it)....

- 110mm pipe will not be large enough to fit two 22mm pipes with a
respectable amount
of insulation. The recommended amount of insulation is at least the
diameter of the pipes
so this comes to 66mm all up for each one. Standard insulation
thicknesses appear to be 9, 13, 19
and 25mm. You would have to go down to 9mm, which is not enough.
I used 160mm and there was then plenty of room.

- I used plastic barrier pipe in coil form and threaded it through so
that there were no joints in the underground
section. There needed to be one pipe elbow at one end and two at the
other. To assemble everything, it proved easiest to insulate and tape
each pipe and then to tape the two together at regular intervals to make
a bundle.
This was easy to thread through the underground soil pipe. The elbows
were put on afterwards with the pipe having been warmed wih hot water
first. It's much easier this way than trying to thread the individual
pipes through or to push or pull the bundle though.

Matt, you have been on the new years pop.

Boot on other foot or in mouth?


You said you taped the pipes together and pushed it through. Is that so?
You can get larger plastic undergound pipes than 110mm. Put on the
thickest lagging you can and fill the large conduit pipe with
vermiculite. It would be beneficial to cover the underground conduit
pipe with underground Jablite foam to prevent heat loss to the colder
earth on the top of the pipe.

Why don't you read the post before commenting?

1) I proposed insulating each pipe first, *then* taping the two insulated
pipes together. The latter was simply for convenience of threading the
pipes through the drainage pipe. If you try to feed them separately,
the insulation sleeves inevitably rub against one another over part of the
way and it becomes difficult to push the second pipe through. How do I
know this? It's what I tried to begin with. In the end, I took out the
single first pipe and taped the pair together. After that, feeding the
bundled pipe through was easy.

2) I suggested use of 160mm pipe precisely because it allows more
insulation around the pipes.

3) Have you ever done any of this?

Matt, not like you I'm glad to say.

On 2007-01-01 22:29:22 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message ...
On 2007-01-01 19:36:46 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message ...
On 2007-01-01 18:13:24 +0000, said:

A few tips here (because I've done it)....

- 110mm pipe will not be large enough to fit two 22mm pipes with a
respectable amount
of insulation. The recommended amount of insulation is at least the
diameter of the pipes
so this comes to 66mm all up for each one. Standard insulation
thicknesses appear to be 9, 13, 19
and 25mm. You would have to go down to 9mm, which is not enough.
I used 160mm and there was then plenty of room.

- I used plastic barrier pipe in coil form and threaded it through so
that there were no joints in the underground
section. There needed to be one pipe elbow at one end and two at the
other. To assemble everything, it proved easiest to insulate and tape
each pipe and then to tape the two together at regular intervals to
make a bundle.
This was easy to thread through the underground soil pipe. The elbows
were put on afterwards with the pipe having been warmed wih hot water
first. It's much easier this way than trying to thread the individual
pipes through or to push or pull the bundle though.

Matt, you have been on the new years pop.

Boot on other foot or in mouth?


You said you taped the pipes together and pushed it through. Is that
so? You can get larger plastic undergound pipes than 110mm. Put on the
thickest lagging you can and fill the large conduit pipe with
vermiculite. It would be beneficial to cover the underground conduit
pipe with underground Jablite foam to prevent heat loss to the colder
earth on the top of the pipe.

Why don't you read the post before commenting?

1) I proposed insulating each pipe first, *then* taping the two
insulated pipes together. The latter was simply for convenience of
threading the pipes through the drainage pipe. If you try to feed
them separately, the insulation sleeves inevitably rub against one
another over part of the way and it becomes difficult to push the
second pipe through. How do I know this? It's what I tried to begin
with. In the end, I took out the single first pipe and taped the pair
together. After that, feeding the bundled pipe through was easy.

2) I suggested use of 160mm pipe precisely because it allows more
insulation around the pipes.

3) Have you ever done any of this?

Matt, not like you I'm glad to say.

Not like anything, as far as I can make out....

Of course, we don't need to remind everyone of the "little incident"
with the plastic pipe and the hacksaw, do we? That seems to be your one
and only excursion from the armchair.

On Mon, 1 Jan 2007 22:33:52 +0000, Andy Hall
wrote:

Of course, we don't need to remind everyone of the "little incident"
with the plastic pipe and the hacksaw, do we? That seems to be your one
and only excursion from the armchair.

What "was" this incident? I've seen plenty of references to it, but I
must've missed the original, since a certain person is kf'd and I only
see responses to his postings ...

--
Frank Erskine

On 2007-01-01 23:24:05 +0000, Frank Erskine
said:

On Mon, 1 Jan 2007 22:33:52 +0000, Andy Hall
wrote:

Of course, we don't need to remind everyone of the "little incident"
with the plastic pipe and the hacksaw, do we? That seems to be your one
and only excursion from the armchair.

What "was" this incident? I've seen plenty of references to it, but I
must've missed the original, since a certain person is kf'd and I only
see responses to his postings ...

A cause celebre..

Well.... the short version is that he claims that he was doing some
plumbing repair for a neighbour, friend,...
involving the use of some plastic push-fit plumbing fittings. All
of the manufacturers of these things specify that a proper pipe cutter
(slicing type, with or without ratchet) should be used.

Our friend didn't have one of these and used a hacksaw instead. The
net result was that a substantial ****ing of water ensued followed by
an attempt to blame the manufacturer.

Suffice it to say that he has never lived down his one and only attempt
at practical DIY.

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-01-01 22:29:22 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-01-01 19:36:46 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-01-01 18:13:24 +0000, said:

A few tips here (because I've done it)....

- 110mm pipe will not be large enough to fit two 22mm pipes with a
respectable amount
of insulation. The recommended amount of insulation is at least the
diameter of the pipes
so this comes to 66mm all up for each one. Standard insulation
thicknesses appear to be 9, 13, 19
and 25mm. You would have to go down to 9mm, which is not enough.
I used 160mm and there was then plenty of room.

- I used plastic barrier pipe in coil form and threaded it through so
that there were no joints in the underground
section. There needed to be one pipe elbow at one end and two at the
other. To assemble everything, it proved easiest to insulate and
tape each pipe and then to tape the two together at regular intervals
to make a bundle.
This was easy to thread through the underground soil pipe. The elbows
were put on afterwards with the pipe having been warmed wih hot water
first. It's much easier this way than trying to thread the individual
pipes through or to push or pull the bundle though.

Matt, you have been on the new years pop.

Boot on other foot or in mouth?


You said you taped the pipes together and pushed it through. Is that
so? You can get larger plastic undergound pipes than 110mm. Put on the
thickest lagging you can and fill the large conduit pipe with
vermiculite. It would be beneficial to cover the underground conduit
pipe with underground Jablite foam to prevent heat loss to the colder
earth on the top of the pipe.

Why don't you read the post before commenting?

1) I proposed insulating each pipe first, *then* taping the two
insulated pipes together. The latter was simply for convenience of
threading the pipes through the drainage pipe. If you try to feed
them separately, the insulation sleeves inevitably rub against one
another over part of the way and it becomes difficult to push the second
pipe through. How do I know this? It's what I tried to begin with.
In the end, I took out the single first pipe and taped the pair
together. After that, feeding the bundled pipe through was easy.

2) I suggested use of 160mm pipe precisely because it allows more
insulation around the pipes.

3) Have you ever done any of this?

Matt, not like you I'm glad to say.

Not like anything, as far as I can make out....

Matt, you know nothing about these things.

snip tripe by Matt

On Mon, 1 Jan 2007 23:53:18 +0000, Andy Hall
wrote:

On 2007-01-01 23:24:05 +0000, Frank Erskine
said:

On Mon, 1 Jan 2007 22:33:52 +0000, Andy Hall
wrote:

Of course, we don't need to remind everyone of the "little incident"
with the plastic pipe and the hacksaw, do we? That seems to be your one
and only excursion from the armchair.

What "was" this incident? I've seen plenty of references to it, but I
must've missed the original, since a certain person is kf'd and I only
see responses to his postings ...

A cause celebre..

Well.... the short version is that he claims that he was doing some
plumbing repair for a neighbour, friend,...
involving the use of some plastic push-fit plumbing fittings. All
of the manufacturers of these things specify that a proper pipe cutter
(slicing type, with or without ratchet) should be used.

Our friend didn't have one of these and used a hacksaw instead. The
net result was that a substantial ****ing of water ensued followed by
an attempt to blame the manufacturer.

The manufacturer of the hacksaw?

Wonderful, innit - especially as a pipe slicer probably costs less
than a hacksaw.

I'm sure that in the last ten years or so I've used a pipe slicer (or
a pipe cutter) more than I've used a hacksaw (at least for "domestic"
jobs).

Is DD's neighbour still a friend? Or his his "friend" still a
neighbour?

--
Frank Erskine
Sunderland

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-01-01 23:24:05 +0000, Frank Erskine

What "was" this incident? I've seen plenty of references to it, but I
must've missed the original, since a certain person is kf'd and I only
see responses to his postings ...

A cause celebre..

Oh Matt is prattling tanked up...he goes on...

Well.... the short version is that he claims that he was doing some
plumbing repair for a neighbour, friend,...

Matt, yes.

involving the use of some plastic push-fit plumbing fittings. All of
the manufacturers of these things specify that a proper pipe cutter
(slicing type, with or without ratchet) should be used.

Matt, they do not. Hepworth posted on here and said you do not have to.
Matt, goes on....inanely.....

Our friend didn't have one of these and used a hacksaw instead.

Matt. but trimmed off to a perfect unburred squared end, as an am the
ultimate craftsman - as Hepworth said you can do Matt - remember.... He
can't at his age. Matt continues to ramble away full of new year cheer.....

The net result was that a substantial ****ing of water ensued followed by
an attempt to blame the manufacturer.

Matt, wrong again. The olive was pushed out by the pipe - you know this
Matt. Sirry irriot - Matt. Common occurence on plastic pushfits, one of the
reasons professionals don't use them...but Matt does....all the time.
Prefessionals tend to use brass compression on plastic pipes.

His house must be like the house that Jack (sorry Matt) built.

On Mon, 01 Jan 2007 23:24:05 +0000, Frank Erskine wrote:

What "was" this incident? I've seen plenty of references to it, but I
must've missed the original, since a certain person is kf'd and I only
see responses to his postings ...

He tried to use pushfit fittings and plastic tube. Despite the clear
instructions from the maker to use a pipe cutter and to *not* use a hacksaw
to cut the tube, Drivel used a hacksaw to cut the tube.

Then the fitting leaked. Drivel blamed this on the manufacturer of the
fitting. OTOH experience of everyone here was that if a tube has burrs on
it (caused by using a hacksaw) the burrs will scratch the sealing O-ring in
the push-fit fitting and cause a leak, or worse the burred tube will
displace the O-ring from its location and cause a massive leak.

Drivel has ever since argued that he is right and everyone else including
the manufacturer is wrong. Total number of people reading this group who
have had problems with pushfit, 1. Drivel and no one else.

I've just finished plumbing a barn using 100% pushfit. It was fast, easy
and using a decent tube cutter (cost £12) I was able to get through the job
far faster than I could install copper tube.

BTW, when challenged about this Drivel gets nasty and starts to call others
"amateurs". This from a man who didn't possess a plastic tube cutter, or to
be honest a clue.

"Frank Erskine" wrote in message
...

I'm sure that in the last ten years or so I've used a pipe slicer (or
a pipe cutter) more than I've used a hacksaw (at least for "domestic"
jobs).

A pipe slicer on plastic pipe?
http://tinyurl.com/ydmzuw

Not another one!!!!!

"Steve Firth" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 01 Jan 2007 23:24:05 +0000, Frank Erskine wrote:

What "was" this incident? I've seen plenty of references to it, but I
must've missed the original, since a certain person is kf'd and I only
see responses to his postings ...

He

Please eff off as you are a total plantpot, many on the group think so:
http://tinyurl.com/y862g3

You are very popular indeed. For your own good it is best you eff off.

wrote in message
ups.com...
Another minor point. If the mains water pipe enters a detached garage,
then underground to the main house will it need a stop cock entering
the house as well as the garage?

Yes.

In article ,
Steve Firth wrote:
BTW, when challenged about this Drivel gets nasty and starts to call
others "amateurs". This from a man who didn't possess a plastic tube
cutter, or to be honest a clue.

Yes. It's always struck me as strange that dribble has claimed at various
times to be a heating engineer of many years experience, but is always
going on about the new cheap tools he's just bought. And of course not
having a plastic pipe cutter. Even worse not having the skill to cut
plastic pipe and trim the end properly without one - as say in an
emergency.

Notice the similarity with 'timegoesby'? He claims to make a living out of
doing up houses for sale - yet seems to regularly ask the most basic of
questions. And doesn't seem to know the cost of materials. And has the
same sort of poor English. Methinks they may share socks...

--
*No sentence fragments *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In message , Frank Erskine
writes
On Mon, 1 Jan 2007 23:53:18 +0000, Andy Hall
wrote:
A cause celebre..

Well.... the short version is that he claims that he was doing some
plumbing repair for a neighbour, friend,...
involving the use of some plastic push-fit plumbing fittings. All
of the manufacturers of these things specify that a proper pipe cutter
(slicing type, with or without ratchet) should be used.

Our friend didn't have one of these and used a hacksaw instead. The
net result was that a substantial ****ing of water ensued followed by
an attempt to blame the manufacturer.

The manufacturer of the hacksaw?

Wonderful, innit - especially as a pipe slicer probably costs less
than a hacksaw.

I'm sure that in the last ten years or so I've used a pipe slicer (or
a pipe cutter) more than I've used a hacksaw (at least for "domestic"
jobs).

Is DD's neighbour still a friend? Or his his "friend" still a
neighbour?

He prolly never sees the neighbour now as

a) he's been sectioned

and

b) his neighbour has now (of necessity) become an Olympic swimmer)
--
geoff

On Tue, 02 Jan 2007 01:05:18 +0000 (GMT), Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

Notice the similarity with 'timegoesby'? He claims to make a living out of
doing up houses for sale - yet seems to regularly ask the most basic of
questions. And doesn't seem to know the cost of materials. And has the
same sort of poor English. Methinks they may share socks...

There's no doubt that they are the same person. He's made several slips in
the past by responding in the wrong persona. There's another sock as well,
that one chooses to make false representations about some sort of engine
snake oil. He claims that this product is used by Lancashire police.

What he didn't know is that I work with Lancashire Police at their Hutton
Hall Headquarters. I went to the garage to ask about the claim for this
"Cataclean" petrol additive and they told me that they had never endorsed
the product and that anyone who said they did was not telling the truth.

On Tue, 2 Jan 2007 00:53:58 -0000, Doctor Drivel wrote:

wrote in message
ups.com...
Another minor point. If the mains water pipe enters a detached garage,
then underground to the main house will it need a stop cock entering
the house as well as the garage?

Yes.

Talking to yourself Drivel? It's a sign of madness. As to be honest are
each of your posts to Usenet.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Steve Firth wrote:
BTW, when challenged about this Drivel gets nasty and starts to call
others "amateurs". This from a man who didn't possess a plastic tube
cutter, or to be honest a clue.

Yes.

Please eff off as you are a total plantpot

"Steve Firth" wrote in message
...


Please eff off as you are a total plantpot, many on the group think so:
http://tinyurl.com/y862g3

You are very popular indeed. For your own good it is best you eff off. See
the nurse.

"Steve Firth" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 2 Jan 2007 00:53:58 -0000, Doctor Drivel wrote:

wrote in message
ups.com...
Another minor point. If the mains water pipe enters a detached garage,
then underground to the main house will it need a stop cock entering
the house as well as the garage?

Yes.

Talking

Please eff off as you are a total plantpot, many on the group think so:
http://tinyurl.com/y862g3

You are very popular indeed. For your own good it is best you eff off. See
the nurse at the clinic.

"raden" wrote in message
...

b) his neighbour has now (of necessity) become an Olympic swimmer)

Maxie, I see you have been banned from DIYNot for spamming. Fabulous Maxie.
Fabulous.

Are you still drunk?

On Tue, 2 Jan 2007 02:35:52 -0000, Doctor Drivel wrote:

Please

http://tinyurl.com/ydknrx

On Tue, 2 Jan 2007 02:37:17 -0000, Doctor Drivel wrote:

Please

http://tinyurl.com/ydknrx