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Default Replacing Floorboards

Hi all

Having had the plumbers in and lifted additional boards for wiring, I now
need to put something back down.
The original boards are non-standard 3-1/2" wide jobbies, so if I try to
replace with available boards I have to get cut-down 4-1/2" versions (so I
lose the tongue or groove).
My thought is to replace 2 or 3 adjacent damaged boards with one wide board
to reduce the number of joints and hopefully lessen the creaking.
Much of this is on the landing and therefore sees plenty of heavy foot
traffic.
I prefer to avoid materials that "blow" as soon as water gets near them, so
can anyone suggest best materials for this please?

The current boards are 19mm thick from memory.

I am also mindful of the fact that these boards will not be "tied in" to the
remaining floor due to lack of tongue and groove interlock.
Will this lead to a springier floor?
Is there any way around this?

TIA

Phil


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Default Replacing Floorboards


TheScullster wrote:

Hi all

Having had the plumbers in and lifted additional boards for wiring, I now
need to put something back down.
The original boards are non-standard 3-1/2" wide jobbies, so if I try to
replace with available boards I have to get cut-down 4-1/2" versions (so I
lose the tongue or groove).
My thought is to replace 2 or 3 adjacent damaged boards with one wide board
to reduce the number of joints and hopefully lessen the creaking.
Much of this is on the landing and therefore sees plenty of heavy foot
traffic.
I prefer to avoid materials that "blow" as soon as water gets near them, so
can anyone suggest best materials for this please?

The current boards are 19mm thick from memory.

I am also mindful of the fact that these boards will not be "tied in" to the
remaining floor due to lack of tongue and groove interlock.
Will this lead to a springier floor?
Is there any way around this?

TIA


I thought that the only purpose that the t&g serves is to stop drafts.
When I replace boards with the t&g broken I glue a piece of wood to the
bottom of the two adjacent boards, mainly to stop me dropping small
things under the floor as I can't imagine that there are huge drafts
coming through where a board has been replaced for plumbing access.

Kevin

Phil


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Default Replacing Floorboards

in my experience most older properties dont have t&g boards, and the
floors aren't too springy (I find thats usually caused by problems with
the joists/girders)
If its going under carpet etc just get flooring grade chipboard




TheScullster wrote:
Hi all

Having had the plumbers in and lifted additional boards for wiring, I now
need to put something back down.
The original boards are non-standard 3-1/2" wide jobbies, so if I try to
replace with available boards I have to get cut-down 4-1/2" versions (so I
lose the tongue or groove).
My thought is to replace 2 or 3 adjacent damaged boards with one wide board
to reduce the number of joints and hopefully lessen the creaking.
Much of this is on the landing and therefore sees plenty of heavy foot
traffic.
I prefer to avoid materials that "blow" as soon as water gets near them, so
can anyone suggest best materials for this please?

The current boards are 19mm thick from memory.

I am also mindful of the fact that these boards will not be "tied in" to the
remaining floor due to lack of tongue and groove interlock.
Will this lead to a springier floor?
Is there any way around this?

TIA

Phil


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Default Replacing Floorboards

TheScullster wrote:

Hi all

Having had the plumbers in and lifted additional boards for wiring, I now
need to put something back down.
The original boards are non-standard 3-1/2" wide jobbies, so if I try to
replace with available boards I have to get cut-down 4-1/2" versions (so I
lose the tongue or groove).
My thought is to replace 2 or 3 adjacent damaged boards with one wide board
to reduce the number of joints and hopefully lessen the creaking.
Much of this is on the landing and therefore sees plenty of heavy foot
traffic.
I prefer to avoid materials that "blow" as soon as water gets near them, so
can anyone suggest best materials for this please?

The current boards are 19mm thick from memory.

I am also mindful of the fact that these boards will not be "tied in" to the
remaining floor due to lack of tongue and groove interlock.
Will this lead to a springier floor?
Is there any way around this?

TIA

Phil


Usually the boards are pine and can be replaced with more pine. However
if you put new boards down theyre going to be a real eyesore mixed with
the old. Better to get ye to a reclaim yard and get the right boards,
otherwise it'll look bad for decades to come.

T&G doesnt reduce floor springiness, but it does improve performance in
a fire by stopping smoke. You could repolace 3 old boards with 2 newer
if necessary, but its worth ringing round and see if you can get board
as original, then it'll look decent.

You dont say if this'll be on view, but if so and you cant find boards
as per original, I'd take some old boards and cut them down, and not
worry about the ts & gs.


NT



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Default Replacing Floorboards


wrote


Usually the boards are pine and can be replaced with more pine. However
if you put new boards down theyre going to be a real eyesore mixed with
the old. Better to get ye to a reclaim yard and get the right boards,
otherwise it'll look bad for decades to come.

T&G doesnt reduce floor springiness, but it does improve performance in
a fire by stopping smoke. You could repolace 3 old boards with 2 newer
if necessary, but its worth ringing round and see if you can get board
as original, then it'll look decent.

You dont say if this'll be on view, but if so and you cant find boards
as per original, I'd take some old boards and cut them down, and not
worry about the ts & gs.


Thanks to NT et al

Sorry should have included, house is 1970s, so it is unlikely that I will
want to expose the floor as a "feature".
Is flooring grade chipboard reasonably water resistant, or will it
disintegrate in the event of a radiator leak or pipe burst?

Phil


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Default Replacing Floorboards

TheScullster wrote:
wrote

Usually the boards are pine and can be replaced with more pine. However
if you put new boards down theyre going to be a real eyesore mixed with
the old. Better to get ye to a reclaim yard and get the right boards,
otherwise it'll look bad for decades to come.

T&G doesnt reduce floor springiness, but it does improve performance in
a fire by stopping smoke. You could repolace 3 old boards with 2 newer
if necessary, but its worth ringing round and see if you can get board
as original, then it'll look decent.

You dont say if this'll be on view, but if so and you cant find boards
as per original, I'd take some old boards and cut them down, and not
worry about the ts & gs.


Thanks to NT et al

Sorry should have included, house is 1970s, so it is unlikely that I will
want to expose the floor as a "feature".
Is flooring grade chipboard reasonably water resistant, or will it
disintegrate in the event of a radiator leak or pipe burst?

Phil



Use a water resistant grade
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Default Replacing Floorboards

TheScullster wrote:
wrote


Usually the boards are pine and can be replaced with more pine. However
if you put new boards down theyre going to be a real eyesore mixed with
the old. Better to get ye to a reclaim yard and get the right boards,
otherwise it'll look bad for decades to come.

T&G doesnt reduce floor springiness, but it does improve performance in
a fire by stopping smoke. You could repolace 3 old boards with 2 newer
if necessary, but its worth ringing round and see if you can get board
as original, then it'll look decent.

You dont say if this'll be on view, but if so and you cant find boards
as per original, I'd take some old boards and cut them down, and not
worry about the ts & gs.


Thanks to NT et al

Sorry should have included, house is 1970s, so it is unlikely that I will
want to expose the floor as a "feature".
Is flooring grade chipboard reasonably water resistant, or will it
disintegrate in the event of a radiator leak or pipe burst?

Phil


Standard stuff isnt at all water resistant. One wetting and its a mess.
The green stuff I dont know, not really used it.


NT

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