We've got a wood burning stove in our house. Or at least, I assume it's a
wood burner, as the previous owners put it in. What affects what I can put
in it (ie, can I chuck coal in?) and so on?

Doki wrote:
We've got a wood burning stove in our house. Or at least, I assume it's
a wood burner, as the previous owners put it in. What affects what I can
put in it (ie, can I chuck coal in?) and so on?

You can burn almost anything in a woodburner..but beware going over
temperature if you end up with a blast furnace that will melt its glass
and cast iron..

The flue specs are higher on wood burners than on coal fires..and soot
and ash is less if you use smokeless fuel or even coke.

Ive seen people use a mixture.
Wood starts easier, but good coal saves lugging so many logs around...

On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 16:19:44 -0000, "Doki" wrote:

We've got a wood burning stove in our house. Or at least, I assume it's a
wood burner, as the previous owners put it in. What affects what I can put
in it (ie, can I chuck coal in?) and so on?

They come in various grades. Some are only suitable for wood or a
token stoking with other hotter fuels.

If badly cast, they can crack if overheated.

Do some research on the model and see.

"EricP" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 16:19:44 -0000, "Doki" wrote:

We've got a wood burning stove in our house. Or at least, I assume it's a
wood burner, as the previous owners put it in. What affects what I can put
in it (ie, can I chuck coal in?) and so on?

They come in various grades. Some are only suitable for wood or a
token stoking with other hotter fuels.

If badly cast, they can crack if overheated.

Do some research on the model and see.


As I understand it any cast iron stove is at risk of cracking if
over-stoked. I have read it said many times that stoves made from welded
sheet steel, even though usually cheaper, are more robust.

Is their a makers mark on the stove?


H

In article ,
Doki wrote:
We've got a wood burning stove in our house. Or at least, I assume it's a
wood burner, as the previous owners put it in. What affects what I can put
in it (ie, can I chuck coal in?) and so on?

You probably won't burn coal effectively unless there is a grate with
a gap underneath it. It it doesn't have a grate, then it's wood only.

Gordon

Doki wrote:
We've got a wood burning stove in our house. Or at least, I assume
it's a wood burner, as the previous owners put it in. What affects
what I can put in it (ie, can I chuck coal in?) and so on?

I have a Stovex "Brunel"* and it happily burns coal and wood. I was told you
can tell a coal burner by the type of lining. Basically if it has no
firebrick lining on the back and sides it is for wood only.
Note: be careful, modern firebrick can be very soft almost as soft as
polystyrene. But is cheap & easy to replace.
Get advice on what type of coal though. I put in some power station freebee
stuff, left it unattended for a while and it got so hot it bubbled the
enamel. I normaly use Anthracite doubles and phurnacite mixed, plus wood.

Slatts

*
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_b...2CB-stove.html

"EricP" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 16:19:44 -0000, "Doki" wrote:

We've got a wood burning stove in our house. Or at least, I assume it's a
wood burner, as the previous owners put it in. What affects what I can put
in it (ie, can I chuck coal in?) and so on?

They come in various grades. Some are only suitable for wood or a
token stoking with other hotter fuels.

If badly cast, they can crack if overheated.

Do some research on the model and see.

No makers marks as far as I can see. Are they normally prominent?

"Gordon Henderson" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Doki wrote:
We've got a wood burning stove in our house. Or at least, I assume it's a
wood burner, as the previous owners put it in. What affects what I can put
in it (ie, can I chuck coal in?) and so on?

You probably won't burn coal effectively unless there is a grate with
a gap underneath it. It it doesn't have a grate, then it's wood only.

It's got a grate and a draught control below it, and also a control to alter
the amount of air going up the chimney.

"Sla#s" wrote in
:

Doki wrote:
We've got a wood burning stove in our house. Or at least, I assume
it's a wood burner, as the previous owners put it in. What affects
what I can put in it (ie, can I chuck coal in?) and so on?





If it has fire bricks as well as a grate it is safe to assume it is
multifuel as most woodburners are unlined. Phurnacite is a fuel that will
burn in most closed stoves
Chris

Doki wrote:

No makers marks as far as I can see. Are they normally prominent?

A generalisation but yes. I would be slightly concerned that this is
an inexpensive far-east import and might be a poorer quality casting.


The difference between wood and coal is that wood requires top air and
coal requires bottom. My Woodworm has a grate that can be moved to a
closed position or an open one respectively.

Rob

robgraham wrote:
Doki wrote:

No makers marks as far as I can see. Are they normally prominent?

A generalisation but yes. I would be slightly concerned that this is
an inexpensive far-east import and might be a poorer quality casting.


The difference between wood and coal is that wood requires top air and
coal requires bottom. My Woodworm has a grate that can be moved to a
closed position or an open one respectively.

Rob

I would say that coal *requires bottom*, but wood doesn't..certainly
wood burns BETTER, bottom fed.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...

The difference between wood and coal is that wood requires top air and
coal requires bottom. My Woodworm has a grate that can be moved to a
closed position or an open one respectively.

I would say that coal *requires bottom*, but wood doesn't..certainly wood
burns BETTER, bottom fed.

True, but modern clean burn stoves work by igniting the gases with hot air
from above. Apart from the exra air required to get it blazing all that is
required is this top air. So in that respect they burn better with air from
above.

--
Mike W

In article ,
Chris wrote:
"Sla#s" wrote in
:

Doki wrote:
We've got a wood burning stove in our house. Or at least, I assume
it's a wood burner, as the previous owners put it in. What affects
what I can put in it (ie, can I chuck coal in?) and so on?


If it has fire bricks as well as a grate it is safe to assume it is
multifuel as most woodburners are unlined. Phurnacite is a fuel that will
burn in most closed stoves

Our woodburner (Stovax) is lined on the sides, but hasn't got a grate!
(but thats OK, as we don't need to burn coal!)

Gordon

On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 16:19:44 -0000, "Doki" wrote:

We've got a wood burning stove in our house. Or at least, I assume it's a
wood burner, as the previous owners put it in. What affects what I can put
in it (ie, can I chuck coal in?) and so on?


Post a pic and someone might know which one it is.
--
Free Christmas Cards
http://www.christmasfreebies.co.uk/christmas-cards.htm
What I want for Christmas
http://www.christmasfreebies.co.uk/dear-boyfriend.htm

In article ,
visionset wrote:

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
. ..

The difference between wood and coal is that wood requires top air and
coal requires bottom. My Woodworm has a grate that can be moved to a
closed position or an open one respectively.

I would say that coal *requires bottom*, but wood doesn't..certainly wood
burns BETTER, bottom fed.

True, but modern clean burn stoves work by igniting the gases with hot air
from above. Apart from the exra air required to get it blazing all that is
required is this top air. So in that respect they burn better with air from
above.

This is how our Stovax works - you open up the vents at the bottom to
get it going then when it's nice and hot, you close them. There are air
vents along the back wall, near the top, and the internal ducting has
the incoming air passed over hot surfaces before it comes out the
holes. It keeps the front-glass nice and clean too.

Gordon

The message
from (Gordon Henderson) contains these words:

This is how our Stovax works - you open up the vents at the bottom to
get it going then when it's nice and hot, you close them. There are air
vents along the back wall, near the top, and the internal ducting has
the incoming air passed over hot surfaces before it comes out the
holes. It keeps the front-glass nice and clean too.

I used a Woodwarm like that while ago. Smashing it was.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

Doki wrote:

"Gordon Henderson" wrote in message
...

In article ,
Doki wrote:

We've got a wood burning stove in our house. Or at least, I assume
it's a
wood burner, as the previous owners put it in. What affects what I
can put
in it (ie, can I chuck coal in?) and so on?


You probably won't burn coal effectively unless there is a grate with
a gap underneath it. It it doesn't have a grate, then it's wood only.


It's got a grate and a draught control below it, and also a control to
alter the amount of air going up the chimney.

Keep the bit under the grate nice and clean and you can burn anything,
even old slippers if you want.
I've never heard of a stove glass melting though, I think that may be
from stopes.com.

If it's one of the Morso ones (like he
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_b...so-stoves.html )
you've got yourself a really good one. With winter coming up, you have
my deepest envy.

Z.