Hi

Vaillant turbomax plus 824e, installed 2000.

The diverter valve seems to be stuck on central heating mode. If I turn
on DHW, the boiler ignites, no cold water but the CH flow pipe gets
hot. I also followed the boiler's manual - the spindle in the diverter
valve moves (so it is trying to divert) i.e. everything 'in the chain'
works except the last stage. From what I have read, this part seems to
be one of the weak points of my particular model.

Replacing the part itself seems very easy so I went out and got a
replacement! The initial steps seem OK: boiler off, electricity off,
all valves closed.

My query is about releasing the water pressure and repressurising the
system post-installation. I presume refilling the system is just
opening all the valves, electricity on, boiler itself on, turning on
all radiators, pressurise using the little key-operated thing
underneath the boiler, bleed and check pressure until ok again. I have
done something similar when the pressure was a bit low but not 'from
scratch' if you see what I mean but from what I understand it's exactly
the same principle. Is this right?

Here's the other thing: I have never drained a boiler before and,
unfortunately, the manual has a picture (on page 32) but not the
instructions that go with it! To drain, I hoped would be a case of
shutting off all the valves on the pipes, then opening up another valve
at the bottommost point of the boiler (i.e. like a car radiator!). I
also see two pressure relief valves on the flow and return pipes of the
central heating. Are both of these what I should be using?

I'll get someone in if anyone advises me to do so (for instance, I did
read somewhere that said not to do this unless you have a bit of
experience because e.g. the boiler's isolation sometimes leak) but I
think, if I can make sure I have the releasing and repressurising steps
clear, this seems to be one of the sensible DIY tasks that can be done
with boilers.

Thanks for any help or advice,

Emma.

wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi

Vaillant turbomax plus 824e, installed 2000.

The diverter valve seems to be stuck on central heating mode. If I turn
on DHW, the boiler ignites, no cold water but the CH flow pipe gets
hot. I also followed the boiler's manual - the spindle in the diverter
valve moves (so it is trying to divert) i.e. everything 'in the chain'
works except the last stage. From what I have read, this part seems to
be one of the weak points of my particular model.

Replacing the part itself seems very easy so I went out and got a
replacement! The initial steps seem OK: boiler off, electricity off,
all valves closed.

My query is about releasing the water pressure and repressurising the
system post-installation. I presume refilling the system is just
opening all the valves, electricity on, boiler itself on, turning on
all radiators, pressurise using the little key-operated thing
underneath the boiler, bleed and check pressure until ok again. I have
done something similar when the pressure was a bit low but not 'from
scratch' if you see what I mean but from what I understand it's exactly
the same principle. Is this right?

Here's the other thing: I have never drained a boiler before and,
unfortunately, the manual has a picture (on page 32) but not the
instructions that go with it! To drain, I hoped would be a case of
shutting off all the valves on the pipes, then opening up another valve
at the bottommost point of the boiler (i.e. like a car radiator!). I
also see two pressure relief valves on the flow and return pipes of the
central heating. Are both of these what I should be using?

I'll get someone in if anyone advises me to do so (for instance, I did
read somewhere that said not to do this unless you have a bit of
experience because e.g. the boiler's isolation sometimes leak) but I
think, if I can make sure I have the releasing and repressurising steps
clear, this seems to be one of the sensible DIY tasks that can be done
with boilers.

Thanks for any help or advice,

Emma.


Hi Emma,

Before draining down etc, take the motor unit off your existing valve and
see if you can move the valve manually. Quite often it is the motor unit
that has failed.
If the valve is OK then you might be lucky in that the new motor will fit
the old valve.or you might have to return the new valve whole and get the
right brand of replacement motor unit.
You might not get this at a DIY shed but a prpoer plumbers merchant or
heating specialist should be able to help you to find the right part.Take
the old one along with you.

hth

Bob

wrote:

hot. I also followed the boiler's manual - the spindle in the diverter
valve moves (so it is trying to divert) i.e. everything 'in the chain'
works except the last stage. From what I have read, this part seems to
be one of the weak points of my particular model.

It sounds like you should be able to just replace the motor rather than
the whole valve. If that is the case then there will be no need to drain
down.

Depending on how the boiler is plumbed you may find that you have stop
valves on the central heating flow and return pipes (sometimes built
into the point where the pipe connects to the boiler. If this is the
case then you can shut these off, and turn off the mains water to
isolate the valve again without needing a full drain down,

Have a look at the sealed system FAQ for details on refilling etc:

http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

wrote:
Hi

Vaillant turbomax plus 824e, installed 2000.

The diverter valve seems to be stuck on central heating mode.

If you do a search through previous posts, there is some good advice on
changing the valve in this particular boiler.
I have done so myself and it was a very simple job; if you use the
shutoff valves provided, then it's only necessary to drain the boiler
itself. Though, as you point out, some have said that they may leak -
though they didn't for me.
Refilling is then just "topping up" and bleeding where necessary.
I personally wouldn't turn the power back on until it's full of water
and the shutoff valves are open though...

Lee

--
Email address is valid, but is unlikely to be read.

On Sun, 12 Nov 2006 04:40:07 -0800, wrote:

Hi

Vaillant turbomax plus 824e, installed 2000.

The diverter valve seems to be stuck on central heating mode. If I turn
on DHW, the boiler ignites, no cold water but the CH flow pipe gets
hot. I also followed the boiler's manual - the spindle in the diverter
valve moves (so it is trying to divert) i.e. everything 'in the chain'
works except the last stage. From what I have read, this part seems to
be one of the weak points of my particular model.

Replacing the part itself seems very easy so I went out and got a
replacement! The initial steps seem OK: boiler off, electricity off,
all valves closed.

My query is about releasing the water pressure and repressurising the
system post-installation. I presume refilling the system is just
opening all the valves, electricity on, boiler itself on, turning on
all radiators, pressurise using the little key-operated thing
underneath the boiler, bleed and check pressure until ok again. I have
done something similar when the pressure was a bit low but not 'from
scratch' if you see what I mean but from what I understand it's exactly
the same principle. Is this right?

Here's the other thing: I have never drained a boiler before and,
unfortunately, the manual has a picture (on page 32) but not the
instructions that go with it! To drain, I hoped would be a case of
shutting off all the valves on the pipes, then opening up another valve
at the bottommost point of the boiler (i.e. like a car radiator!). I
also see two pressure relief valves on the flow and return pipes of the
central heating. Are both of these what I should be using?

I'll get someone in if anyone advises me to do so (for instance, I did
read somewhere that said not to do this unless you have a bit of
experience because e.g. the boiler's isolation sometimes leak) but I
think, if I can make sure I have the releasing and repressurising steps
clear, this seems to be one of the sensible DIY tasks that can be done
with boilers.

Thanks for any help or advice,

Emma.


It seems to be a stock fault with the earlier T/max+s that have the
turquoise knobs. The replacement unit seems to be reliable. The problem is
the motor seems to fail to drive the valve properly - I don't even know if
you could even get just a motor.

The flow and return pipes have isolators on them which operate by 1/4 of a
turn and are screwdriver or allen key operated (4mm? AF). There are two
little drain points on side of the flow and return isolators which you can
fit a small rubber tube to or just put a bucket under.

After refilling turn both the isolators on, turn the gas off (1/4 turn
with screwdriver) and put the heating on. The system will quieten down in
about 30 seconds and you can then risk the gas back on.

Check the SealedCH FAQ for all the background info.


--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html
Gas Fitting Standards Docs he http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFittingStandards

Ed Sirett wrote:
On Sun, 12 Nov 2006 04:40:07 -0800, wrote:

Hi

Vaillant turbomax plus 824e, installed 2000.

The diverter valve seems to be stuck on central heating mode. If I turn
on DHW, the boiler ignites, no cold water but the CH flow pipe gets
hot. I also followed the boiler's manual - the spindle in the diverter
valve moves (so it is trying to divert) i.e. everything 'in the chain'
works except the last stage. From what I have read, this part seems to
be one of the weak points of my particular model.

Replacing the part itself seems very easy so I went out and got a
replacement! The initial steps seem OK: boiler off, electricity off,
all valves closed.

My query is about releasing the water pressure and repressurising the
system post-installation. I presume refilling the system is just
opening all the valves, electricity on, boiler itself on, turning on
all radiators, pressurise using the little key-operated thing
underneath the boiler, bleed and check pressure until ok again. I have
done something similar when the pressure was a bit low but not 'from
scratch' if you see what I mean but from what I understand it's exactly
the same principle. Is this right?

Here's the other thing: I have never drained a boiler before and,
unfortunately, the manual has a picture (on page 32) but not the
instructions that go with it! To drain, I hoped would be a case of
shutting off all the valves on the pipes, then opening up another valve
at the bottommost point of the boiler (i.e. like a car radiator!). I
also see two pressure relief valves on the flow and return pipes of the
central heating. Are both of these what I should be using?

I'll get someone in if anyone advises me to do so (for instance, I did
read somewhere that said not to do this unless you have a bit of
experience because e.g. the boiler's isolation sometimes leak) but I
think, if I can make sure I have the releasing and repressurising steps
clear, this seems to be one of the sensible DIY tasks that can be done
with boilers.

Thanks for any help or advice,

Emma.


It seems to be a stock fault with the earlier T/max+s that have the
turquoise knobs. The replacement unit seems to be reliable. The problem is
the motor seems to fail to drive the valve properly - I don't even know if
you could even get just a motor.

The flow and return pipes have isolators on them which operate by 1/4 of a
turn and are screwdriver or allen key operated (4mm? AF). There are two
little drain points on side of the flow and return isolators which you can
fit a small rubber tube to or just put a bucket under.

After refilling turn both the isolators on, turn the gas off (1/4 turn
with screwdriver) and put the heating on. The system will quieten down in
about 30 seconds and you can then risk the gas back on.

Hi

Apologies for large delay in responding. Firstly, thanks to all who
responded - would just like to say thanks and give some good news: I
did it myself and there are no problems so far!

If it wasn't for this newsgroup, I wouldn't have had the confidence to
have a try, even after diagnosing the problem and deciding it shouldn't
be too bad to do given that the dodgy part was quite accessible.

I have to admit, I was quite nervous as I shut the whole thing off,
drained the boiler, put the new part in and restarted!

Only one mistake really, before restarting I forgot to turn the flow
back on and the boiler temperature reading shot right up to nearly 100
degrees after igniting! I presume this was because there was no water
in there :-( I turned it off quickly and am hoping there wasn't any
permanent damage.

After that scare, everything went well and I now have a properly
working boiler again and nicely bled radiators etc. Saying that, it's
still too mild to have the heating on (in London anyway), but at least
I know it works fine!

Thanks to all respondents and this newsgroup - I feel like tackling all
the other jobs I have now!

Cheers,

Emma.

On Mon, 27 Nov 2006 13:27:13 -0800, wrote:

Ed Sirett wrote:
On Sun, 12 Nov 2006 04:40:07 -0800, wrote:

Hi

Vaillant turbomax plus 824e, installed 2000.

The diverter valve seems to be stuck on central heating mode. If I turn
on DHW, the boiler ignites, no cold water but the CH flow pipe gets
hot. I also followed the boiler's manual - the spindle in the diverter
valve moves (so it is trying to divert) i.e. everything 'in the chain'
works except the last stage. From what I have read, this part seems to
be one of the weak points of my particular model.

Replacing the part itself seems very easy so I went out and got a
replacement! The initial steps seem OK: boiler off, electricity off,
all valves closed.

My query is about releasing the water pressure and repressurising the
system post-installation. I presume refilling the system is just
opening all the valves, electricity on, boiler itself on, turning on
all radiators, pressurise using the little key-operated thing
underneath the boiler, bleed and check pressure until ok again. I have
done something similar when the pressure was a bit low but not 'from
scratch' if you see what I mean but from what I understand it's exactly
the same principle. Is this right?

Here's the other thing: I have never drained a boiler before and,
unfortunately, the manual has a picture (on page 32) but not the
instructions that go with it! To drain, I hoped would be a case of
shutting off all the valves on the pipes, then opening up another valve
at the bottommost point of the boiler (i.e. like a car radiator!). I
also see two pressure relief valves on the flow and return pipes of the
central heating. Are both of these what I should be using?

I'll get someone in if anyone advises me to do so (for instance, I did
read somewhere that said not to do this unless you have a bit of
experience because e.g. the boiler's isolation sometimes leak) but I
think, if I can make sure I have the releasing and repressurising steps
clear, this seems to be one of the sensible DIY tasks that can be done
with boilers.

Thanks for any help or advice,

Emma.


It seems to be a stock fault with the earlier T/max+s that have the
turquoise knobs. The replacement unit seems to be reliable. The problem is
the motor seems to fail to drive the valve properly - I don't even know if
you could even get just a motor.

The flow and return pipes have isolators on them which operate by 1/4 of a
turn and are screwdriver or allen key operated (4mm? AF). There are two
little drain points on side of the flow and return isolators which you can
fit a small rubber tube to or just put a bucket under.

After refilling turn both the isolators on, turn the gas off (1/4 turn
with screwdriver) and put the heating on. The system will quieten down in
about 30 seconds and you can then risk the gas back on.

Hi

Apologies for large delay in responding. Firstly, thanks to all who
responded - would just like to say thanks and give some good news: I
did it myself and there are no problems so far!

If it wasn't for this newsgroup, I wouldn't have had the confidence to
have a try, even after diagnosing the problem and deciding it shouldn't
be too bad to do given that the dodgy part was quite accessible.

I have to admit, I was quite nervous as I shut the whole thing off,
drained the boiler, put the new part in and restarted!

Only one mistake really, before restarting I forgot to turn the flow
back on and the boiler temperature reading shot right up to nearly 100
degrees after igniting! I presume this was because there was no water
in there :-( I turned it off quickly and am hoping there wasn't any
permanent damage.

After that scare, everything went well and I now have a properly
working boiler again and nicely bled radiators etc. Saying that, it's
still too mild to have the heating on (in London anyway), but at least
I know it works fine!

Thanks to all respondents and this newsgroup - I feel like tackling all
the other jobs I have now!


You must have put the water back in first or the boiler would not have
lit. I tend to be paranoid [1] that the boiler is going to melt down unless
I get all the air out first, hence my recommendation to turn the gas off
on the boiler until it's all quietened down.

[1] Born out of experience. Earlier this year I sprayed leak detector at a
gas valve looking for a gas leak (on a Potterton spit) The leak was
elsewhere and got fixed. I left the customer, both he and I happy. Later
the customer complains that his whole house has been plunged into
darkness. Turns out that the whole house is protected by one 30mA RCD. The
gas valve was now about 10k Ohms to earth after I had sprayed it. A hair
dryer did not make things much better. Whining that the electrical
installation was substandard would not have made it work so I lost £103 for
a new gas valve.

Education is expensive but cheaper than ignorance.

--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html
Gas Fitting Standards Docs he http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFittingStandards