In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
wrote:

On 10 Jan,
wrote:

I had problems overnight with a Honeywell 2 port zone valve on my s+
plan system. The boiler was remaining on, due to a failed
micro-switch.


Brain fart theree, I meant Danfoss, not Honeywell.

I replaced the micro-switch, but feel the valve needs
repacement/refurbishment, as there were signs of water leaking from
the shaft seal.

The valve has lasted 6 years or so, Is this a reasonable life?

One of the other valves is a (newer) Drayton one.

The Honeywell valves

Again should read Danfoss, not Honeywell.

have a non-standard thread on the compression joints, so if I go for
another make this will necessitate removing the olives in a confined
space difficult to get to.

I have had a lot of trouble with Honeywell

Again read Danfoss.

3 port valve micro-switches in the past, but this is the fuirst
failure of a 2 port valve.

Should I replace like for like, or would I gain any advantage
changing to (say) Drayton valves.

I should have got more sleep, rather than pratting around at 2 am
trying to work out why the boiler was on when there was no demand for
heat.

I would replace like with like for the sake of easy installation. I don't
think that Danfoss valves are any worse than any other make.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
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On Tue, 10 Jan 2006 14:37:56 -0000, Set Square wrote:

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
wrote:

On 10 Jan,
wrote:

I had problems overnight with a Honeywell 2 port zone valve on my s+
plan system. The boiler was remaining on, due to a failed
micro-switch.


Brain fart theree, I meant Danfoss, not Honeywell.

I replaced the micro-switch, but feel the valve needs
repacement/refurbishment, as there were signs of water leaking from
the shaft seal.

The valve has lasted 6 years or so, Is this a reasonable life?

One of the other valves is a (newer) Drayton one.

The Honeywell valves

Again should read Danfoss, not Honeywell.

have a non-standard thread on the compression joints, so if I go for
another make this will necessitate removing the olives in a confined
space difficult to get to.

I have had a lot of trouble with Honeywell

Again read Danfoss.

3 port valve micro-switches in the past, but this is the fuirst
failure of a 2 port valve.

Should I replace like for like, or would I gain any advantage
changing to (say) Drayton valves.

I should have got more sleep, rather than pratting around at 2 am
trying to work out why the boiler was on when there was no demand for
heat.

I would replace like with like for the sake of easy installation. I don't
think that Danfoss valves are any worse than any other make.

The disadvantage with the danfoss valves is that they are metal against
metal. If there is any crud or corrosion, then the valve can easily become
stuck fast.

With honeywell valves then you have the rubber ball against a metal seat
which is more tolerant to debris.



--
Geosolar, Cambridge. Gas central heating installations.
High quality ATAG boilers www.geosolar.co.uk

I think I'll order a full Danfoss valve from Screwfix, and just replace
the
body, hoping it has the same threads as the old one.

As luck would have it, I have just had a new Danfoss zone valve arrive this
morning. I would be happy to see if the threads are the standard compression
pitch or something weird if you can wait until this evening when I get home.
Let me know if you would be interested.

Christian.

The old Danfoss thread is about 3tpi greater than the standard BS thread.

My new Danfoss valve has a thread that is substantially finer than a
standard compression coupler.

HTH.

Christian.