I have a Bradford White 50 gallon hot water heater and it has been in
service for about 4 years and never been cleaned. Recently I noticed
the water coming out from the hot water faucet is yellow/brown (cold
water faucet has clear water). It is either corroded pipes or sediment
build up from the hot water tank. I tried different hot water faucet
around the house and they are all coming out with stained water so my
bet is the water heater needs to be flushed or cleaned.

Looking through the user manual I do not see a step by step procedure
for doing this but I know it is not just connecting a garden hose to the
spout and turn it on and let the water drain. There are heating
elements at the top and middle of the tank and I don't think I can just
drain the tank like that. Do I need to disconnect the power to the tank
first? Do I need to turn off the water supply into the tank? What can
I do to "stir" up the sediment while I drain it to get the most junk out
of it? Really would appreciate if someone can provide a step by step
guideline or if there is any resource online I can learn from.

Thanks in advance,

Cuse

"I know it is" "just connecting a garden hose to the
spout and turn it on and let the water drain".
Sounds like you've got it now.
Cold water comes in the top, hot water goes out the top.
If there's sediment, it stays behind.
The cold water goes by way of a dip tube towards the bottom.
So you connect the hose, open the valve, and let the cold water
coming in provide the turbulance to help clear the sediment.
Run it for about 15 seconds, close the valve, let it all rest for an
hour or so, do it again. Repeat as necessary, and on Christmas
and 4th of July, repeat before seeing it being necessary.

Cuse wrote in message
...
I have a Bradford White 50 gallon hot water heater and it has been in
service for about 4 years and never been cleaned. Recently I noticed
the water coming out from the hot water faucet is yellow/brown (cold
water faucet has clear water). It is either corroded pipes or sediment
build up from the hot water tank. I tried different hot water faucet
around the house and they are all coming out with stained water so my
bet is the water heater needs to be flushed or cleaned.

Looking through the user manual I do not see a step by step procedure
for doing this but I know it is not just connecting a garden hose to the
spout and turn it on and let the water drain. There are heating
elements at the top and middle of the tank and I don't think I can just
drain the tank like that. Do I need to disconnect the power to the tank
first? Do I need to turn off the water supply into the tank? What can
I do to "stir" up the sediment while I drain it to get the most junk out
of it? Really would appreciate if someone can provide a step by step
guideline or if there is any resource online I can learn from.

Thanks in advance,

Cuse

"I know it is" "just connecting a garden hose to the
spout and turn it on and let the water drain".
Sounds like you've got it now.
Cold water comes in the top, hot water goes out the top.
If there's sediment, it stays behind.
The cold water goes by way of a dip tube towards the bottom.
So you connect the hose, open the valve, and let the cold water
coming in provide the turbulance to help clear the sediment.
Run it for about 15 seconds, close the valve, let it all rest for an
hour or so, do it again. Repeat as necessary, and on Christmas
and 4th of July, repeat before seeing it being necessary.

Cuse wrote in message
...
I have a Bradford White 50 gallon hot water heater and it has been in
service for about 4 years and never been cleaned. Recently I noticed
the water coming out from the hot water faucet is yellow/brown (cold
water faucet has clear water). It is either corroded pipes or sediment
build up from the hot water tank. I tried different hot water faucet
around the house and they are all coming out with stained water so my
bet is the water heater needs to be flushed or cleaned.

Looking through the user manual I do not see a step by step procedure
for doing this but I know it is not just connecting a garden hose to the
spout and turn it on and let the water drain. There are heating
elements at the top and middle of the tank and I don't think I can just
drain the tank like that. Do I need to disconnect the power to the tank
first? Do I need to turn off the water supply into the tank? What can
I do to "stir" up the sediment while I drain it to get the most junk out
of it? Really would appreciate if someone can provide a step by step
guideline or if there is any resource online I can learn from.

Thanks in advance,

Cuse

If you want to be extra sure you're not going to
hurt anything, kill your water heater breakers before
doing the flush. Just in case you were able to make more
water go out than was coming in, and that you were
able to manage to let the water get down below the
first heater. Not very likely in a 15 second flush.
Or you can do it the way you're told to do it
http://www.chilipepperapp.com/flush.htm
I've done it that way, and found that the turbulance of
incoming water helped clear it better. Better to clear
stuff from near the drain valve by doing it the recommended
way first, though, since you haven't done it in several years.

Michael Baugh wrote in message
...
"I know it is" "just connecting a garden hose to the
spout and turn it on and let the water drain".
Sounds like you've got it now.
Cold water comes in the top, hot water goes out the top.
If there's sediment, it stays behind.
The cold water goes by way of a dip tube towards the bottom.
So you connect the hose, open the valve, and let the cold water
coming in provide the turbulance to help clear the sediment.
Run it for about 15 seconds, close the valve, let it all rest for an
hour or so, do it again. Repeat as necessary, and on Christmas
and 4th of July, repeat before seeing it being necessary.

Cuse wrote in message
...
I have a Bradford White 50 gallon hot water heater and it has been in
service for about 4 years and never been cleaned. Recently I noticed
the water coming out from the hot water faucet is yellow/brown (cold
water faucet has clear water). It is either corroded pipes or sediment
build up from the hot water tank. I tried different hot water faucet
around the house and they are all coming out with stained water so my
bet is the water heater needs to be flushed or cleaned.

Looking through the user manual I do not see a step by step procedure
for doing this but I know it is not just connecting a garden hose to the
spout and turn it on and let the water drain. There are heating
elements at the top and middle of the tank and I don't think I can just
drain the tank like that. Do I need to disconnect the power to the tank
first? Do I need to turn off the water supply into the tank? What can
I do to "stir" up the sediment while I drain it to get the most junk out
of it? Really would appreciate if someone can provide a step by step
guideline or if there is any resource online I can learn from.

Thanks in advance,

Cuse

If you want to be extra sure you're not going to
hurt anything, kill your water heater breakers before
doing the flush. Just in case you were able to make more
water go out than was coming in, and that you were
able to manage to let the water get down below the
first heater. Not very likely in a 15 second flush.
Or you can do it the way you're told to do it
http://www.chilipepperapp.com/flush.htm
I've done it that way, and found that the turbulance of
incoming water helped clear it better. Better to clear
stuff from near the drain valve by doing it the recommended
way first, though, since you haven't done it in several years.

Michael Baugh wrote in message
...
"I know it is" "just connecting a garden hose to the
spout and turn it on and let the water drain".
Sounds like you've got it now.
Cold water comes in the top, hot water goes out the top.
If there's sediment, it stays behind.
The cold water goes by way of a dip tube towards the bottom.
So you connect the hose, open the valve, and let the cold water
coming in provide the turbulance to help clear the sediment.
Run it for about 15 seconds, close the valve, let it all rest for an
hour or so, do it again. Repeat as necessary, and on Christmas
and 4th of July, repeat before seeing it being necessary.

Cuse wrote in message
...
I have a Bradford White 50 gallon hot water heater and it has been in
service for about 4 years and never been cleaned. Recently I noticed
the water coming out from the hot water faucet is yellow/brown (cold
water faucet has clear water). It is either corroded pipes or sediment
build up from the hot water tank. I tried different hot water faucet
around the house and they are all coming out with stained water so my
bet is the water heater needs to be flushed or cleaned.

Looking through the user manual I do not see a step by step procedure
for doing this but I know it is not just connecting a garden hose to the
spout and turn it on and let the water drain. There are heating
elements at the top and middle of the tank and I don't think I can just
drain the tank like that. Do I need to disconnect the power to the tank
first? Do I need to turn off the water supply into the tank? What can
I do to "stir" up the sediment while I drain it to get the most junk out
of it? Really would appreciate if someone can provide a step by step
guideline or if there is any resource online I can learn from.

Thanks in advance,

Cuse

I concur. You don't need to turn the power off with this
procedure, which probably all one needs to do. If after
this procedure one is not satisfied, then turn the power
off, turn the inlet valve off, open the drain valve (hose
attached), and pull the lever to open the relief valve. It
could take as long as an hour for the tank to completely
drain. Open the inlet valve and let flush for a minute or
two, close the relief valve, close the drain valve, and
after the tank is full, turn on the power.

Michael Baugh wrote:

"I know it is" "just connecting a garden hose to the
spout and turn it on and let the water drain".
Sounds like you've got it now.
Cold water comes in the top, hot water goes out the top.
If there's sediment, it stays behind.
The cold water goes by way of a dip tube towards the bottom.
So you connect the hose, open the valve, and let the cold water
coming in provide the turbulance to help clear the sediment.
Run it for about 15 seconds, close the valve, let it all rest for an
hour or so, do it again. Repeat as necessary, and on Christmas
and 4th of July, repeat before seeing it being necessary.

Cuse wrote in message
...
I have a Bradford White 50 gallon hot water heater and it has been in
service for about 4 years and never been cleaned. Recently I noticed
the water coming out from the hot water faucet is yellow/brown (cold
water faucet has clear water). It is either corroded pipes or sediment
build up from the hot water tank. I tried different hot water faucet
around the house and they are all coming out with stained water so my
bet is the water heater needs to be flushed or cleaned.

Looking through the user manual I do not see a step by step procedure
for doing this but I know it is not just connecting a garden hose to the
spout and turn it on and let the water drain. There are heating
elements at the top and middle of the tank and I don't think I can just
drain the tank like that. Do I need to disconnect the power to the tank
first? Do I need to turn off the water supply into the tank? What can
I do to "stir" up the sediment while I drain it to get the most junk out
of it? Really would appreciate if someone can provide a step by step
guideline or if there is any resource online I can learn from.

Thanks in advance,

Cuse

I concur. You don't need to turn the power off with this
procedure, which probably all one needs to do. If after
this procedure one is not satisfied, then turn the power
off, turn the inlet valve off, open the drain valve (hose
attached), and pull the lever to open the relief valve. It
could take as long as an hour for the tank to completely
drain. Open the inlet valve and let flush for a minute or
two, close the relief valve, close the drain valve, and
after the tank is full, turn on the power.

Michael Baugh wrote:

"I know it is" "just connecting a garden hose to the
spout and turn it on and let the water drain".
Sounds like you've got it now.
Cold water comes in the top, hot water goes out the top.
If there's sediment, it stays behind.
The cold water goes by way of a dip tube towards the bottom.
So you connect the hose, open the valve, and let the cold water
coming in provide the turbulance to help clear the sediment.
Run it for about 15 seconds, close the valve, let it all rest for an
hour or so, do it again. Repeat as necessary, and on Christmas
and 4th of July, repeat before seeing it being necessary.

Cuse wrote in message
...
I have a Bradford White 50 gallon hot water heater and it has been in
service for about 4 years and never been cleaned. Recently I noticed
the water coming out from the hot water faucet is yellow/brown (cold
water faucet has clear water). It is either corroded pipes or sediment
build up from the hot water tank. I tried different hot water faucet
around the house and they are all coming out with stained water so my
bet is the water heater needs to be flushed or cleaned.

Looking through the user manual I do not see a step by step procedure
for doing this but I know it is not just connecting a garden hose to the
spout and turn it on and let the water drain. There are heating
elements at the top and middle of the tank and I don't think I can just
drain the tank like that. Do I need to disconnect the power to the tank
first? Do I need to turn off the water supply into the tank? What can
I do to "stir" up the sediment while I drain it to get the most junk out
of it? Really would appreciate if someone can provide a step by step
guideline or if there is any resource online I can learn from.

Thanks in advance,

Cuse

Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.
However this did not stop me from draining the tank since the worst can
happen is the tank will not be completely drain since cold water will
keep coming in as I drain from the bottom.

So I turned off all power to the house, opened the temp relief valve,
connect a hose to the drain, and open the drain. Hot water came out and
I can feel the tank draining fast. However I do not seem to hear or
feel any cold water re-entering the tank. I let it drained for about 30
minutes and then I closed the drain. Now I know the tank is quite empty
- I can push it a little and it tipped a bit.

Only no water is entering the tank!

I opened the hot water faucet in one of the bathrooms, nothing.

I waited 30 minutes, nothing.

I think the tank is dead. Somehow cold water has stopped entering that
tank.

I cannot turn the power back on, the heating element will burn out. I
don't know which switch the heater is on - this was why I turned off all
power to start with.

I am not sure what to do now. What I am seeing makes no sense. The
cold water valve should be opened.

Is it possible that this 50 gallon heater refills super quietly and it
takes a few hours? This seems to be the only logical explanation but my
gut feeling tells me it is not refilling now.

Any idea? I am getting desperate.

Thanks,

Cuse

George E. Cawthon wrote:

I concur. You don't need to turn the power off with this
procedure, which probably all one needs to do. If after
this procedure one is not satisfied, then turn the power
off, turn the inlet valve off, open the drain valve (hose
attached), and pull the lever to open the relief valve. It
could take as long as an hour for the tank to completely
drain. Open the inlet valve and let flush for a minute or
two, close the relief valve, close the drain valve, and
after the tank is full, turn on the power.

Michael Baugh wrote:


"I know it is" "just connecting a garden hose to the
spout and turn it on and let the water drain".
Sounds like you've got it now.
Cold water comes in the top, hot water goes out the top.
If there's sediment, it stays behind.
The cold water goes by way of a dip tube towards the bottom.
So you connect the hose, open the valve, and let the cold water
coming in provide the turbulance to help clear the sediment.
Run it for about 15 seconds, close the valve, let it all rest for an
hour or so, do it again. Repeat as necessary, and on Christmas
and 4th of July, repeat before seeing it being necessary.

Cuse wrote in message
...


I have a Bradford White 50 gallon hot water heater and it has been in
service for about 4 years and never been cleaned. Recently I noticed
the water coming out from the hot water faucet is yellow/brown (cold
water faucet has clear water). It is either corroded pipes or sediment
build up from the hot water tank. I tried different hot water faucet
around the house and they are all coming out with stained water so my
bet is the water heater needs to be flushed or cleaned.

Looking through the user manual I do not see a step by step procedure
for doing this but I know it is not just connecting a garden hose to the
spout and turn it on and let the water drain. There are heating
elements at the top and middle of the tank and I don't think I can just
drain the tank like that. Do I need to disconnect the power to the tank
first? Do I need to turn off the water supply into the tank? What can
I do to "stir" up the sediment while I drain it to get the most junk out
of it? Really would appreciate if someone can provide a step by step
guideline or if there is any resource online I can learn from.

Thanks in advance,

Cuse

Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.
However this did not stop me from draining the tank since the worst can
happen is the tank will not be completely drain since cold water will
keep coming in as I drain from the bottom.

So I turned off all power to the house, opened the temp relief valve,
connect a hose to the drain, and open the drain. Hot water came out and
I can feel the tank draining fast. However I do not seem to hear or
feel any cold water re-entering the tank. I let it drained for about 30
minutes and then I closed the drain. Now I know the tank is quite empty
- I can push it a little and it tipped a bit.

Only no water is entering the tank!

I opened the hot water faucet in one of the bathrooms, nothing.

I waited 30 minutes, nothing.

I think the tank is dead. Somehow cold water has stopped entering that
tank.

I cannot turn the power back on, the heating element will burn out. I
don't know which switch the heater is on - this was why I turned off all
power to start with.

I am not sure what to do now. What I am seeing makes no sense. The
cold water valve should be opened.

Is it possible that this 50 gallon heater refills super quietly and it
takes a few hours? This seems to be the only logical explanation but my
gut feeling tells me it is not refilling now.

Any idea? I am getting desperate.

Thanks,

Cuse

George E. Cawthon wrote:

I concur. You don't need to turn the power off with this
procedure, which probably all one needs to do. If after
this procedure one is not satisfied, then turn the power
off, turn the inlet valve off, open the drain valve (hose
attached), and pull the lever to open the relief valve. It
could take as long as an hour for the tank to completely
drain. Open the inlet valve and let flush for a minute or
two, close the relief valve, close the drain valve, and
after the tank is full, turn on the power.

Michael Baugh wrote:


"I know it is" "just connecting a garden hose to the
spout and turn it on and let the water drain".
Sounds like you've got it now.
Cold water comes in the top, hot water goes out the top.
If there's sediment, it stays behind.
The cold water goes by way of a dip tube towards the bottom.
So you connect the hose, open the valve, and let the cold water
coming in provide the turbulance to help clear the sediment.
Run it for about 15 seconds, close the valve, let it all rest for an
hour or so, do it again. Repeat as necessary, and on Christmas
and 4th of July, repeat before seeing it being necessary.

Cuse wrote in message
...


I have a Bradford White 50 gallon hot water heater and it has been in
service for about 4 years and never been cleaned. Recently I noticed
the water coming out from the hot water faucet is yellow/brown (cold
water faucet has clear water). It is either corroded pipes or sediment
build up from the hot water tank. I tried different hot water faucet
around the house and they are all coming out with stained water so my
bet is the water heater needs to be flushed or cleaned.

Looking through the user manual I do not see a step by step procedure
for doing this but I know it is not just connecting a garden hose to the
spout and turn it on and let the water drain. There are heating
elements at the top and middle of the tank and I don't think I can just
drain the tank like that. Do I need to disconnect the power to the tank
first? Do I need to turn off the water supply into the tank? What can
I do to "stir" up the sediment while I drain it to get the most junk out
of it? Really would appreciate if someone can provide a step by step
guideline or if there is any resource online I can learn from.

Thanks in advance,

Cuse

"Cuse" wrote in message
...
Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.


you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id probably try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

"Cuse" wrote in message
...
Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.


you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id probably try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way and not
different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my kitchen,
I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling. If I turned
off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house will cause this,
but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the draining.
Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 % (vertical) right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:

"Cuse" wrote in message
...


Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.




you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id probably try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way and not
different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my kitchen,
I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling. If I turned
off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house will cause this,
but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the draining.
Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 % (vertical) right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:

"Cuse" wrote in message
...


Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.




you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id probably try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the water
shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like crazy.
There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should I open
the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the water
drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain and
valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the tank
until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:

This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way and not
different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 % (vertical)
right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:

"Cuse" wrote in message
...


Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.




you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id probably
try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the water
shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like crazy.
There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should I open
the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the water
drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain and
valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the tank
until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:

This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way and not
different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 % (vertical)
right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:

"Cuse" wrote in message
...


Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.




you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id probably
try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

At this point I have no hot water. I turned on the hot water faucet,
nothing comes out. Not a drop. I turned on the cold water faucet, and
water comes out ok. If I put the lever in the middle, the faucet is
singing.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:

It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the
water shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like
crazy. There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should
I open the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the
water drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain
and valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the
tank until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:

This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way and
not different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 %
(vertical) right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:

"Cuse" wrote in message
...


Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.





you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id
probably try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

At this point I have no hot water. I turned on the hot water faucet,
nothing comes out. Not a drop. I turned on the cold water faucet, and
water comes out ok. If I put the lever in the middle, the faucet is
singing.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:

It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the
water shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like
crazy. There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should
I open the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the
water drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain
and valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the
tank until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:

This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way and
not different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 %
(vertical) right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:

"Cuse" wrote in message
...


Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.





you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id
probably try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

after waiting several hours still no hot water coming out the faucet.
Something has seriously went wrong and I have no clue what.

If I turn on the cold water faucet in the kitchen the heater will make
noises.

Is it possible after I switched off the main breaker for the house, it
will cause the heater to turn itself off? This Bradford White 50
gallong heater has two panels (one on top and one at the bottom). If I
unscrew them there is a red button and a whitel button inside each
panel. Not sure what those are. It is possible I need to re-activate
something?

Any help would be appreciated. My wife is yelling at me for making a
perfectly good water heater bad now.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:

It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the
water shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like
crazy. There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should
I open the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the
water drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain
and valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the
tank until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:

This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way and
not different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 %
(vertical) right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:

"Cuse" wrote in message
...


Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.





you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id
probably try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

after waiting several hours still no hot water coming out the faucet.
Something has seriously went wrong and I have no clue what.

If I turn on the cold water faucet in the kitchen the heater will make
noises.

Is it possible after I switched off the main breaker for the house, it
will cause the heater to turn itself off? This Bradford White 50
gallong heater has two panels (one on top and one at the bottom). If I
unscrew them there is a red button and a whitel button inside each
panel. Not sure what those are. It is possible I need to re-activate
something?

Any help would be appreciated. My wife is yelling at me for making a
perfectly good water heater bad now.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:

It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the
water shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like
crazy. There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should
I open the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the
water drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain
and valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the
tank until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:

This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way and
not different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 %
(vertical) right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:

"Cuse" wrote in message
...


Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.





you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id
probably try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

Yes you need a tap opened to fill the tank. If you open the
kitchen faucet to hot water, (or any other faucet) the tank
should fill and then water would come out the open faucet.
Since that doesn't happen, you either didn't wait long
enough, or the coldwater valve is not letting water into the
hot water tank. It sound like that has happened and by now
you have probably burned up the heating element (which
should make little or no noise).

Hopefully you closed the relief valve. You could have left
it open until water started running out of it. Btw, the
ho****er tank is 220v, so you don't need to turn off all
electricity to the whole house, just turn off the 220
breakers.

You recognized a problem with the cold water valve at the
tank and failed to do anything. Big mistake.

Your next step is to turn the water off at the street and
replace the coldwater valve at the water heater. Before you
do that, again turn the handle and make sure the stem is
turning. If the stem is not turning, remove the handle and
put vice grips on the stem and turn it. After you get the
valve fixed or replaced, you can turn the water on, fill the
tank, and see if the heater elements are working. If after
and hour or two you get very cold water, the elements are
burned out and you will have to drain the tank and replace
the elements. Should you do that? I'm not sure, maybe just
buy a replacement tank for $150.

Cuse wrote:

It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the water
shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like crazy.
There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should I open
the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the water
drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain and
valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the tank
until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:

This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way and not
different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 % (vertical)
right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:

"Cuse" wrote in message
...


Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.




you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id probably
try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

Yes you need a tap opened to fill the tank. If you open the
kitchen faucet to hot water, (or any other faucet) the tank
should fill and then water would come out the open faucet.
Since that doesn't happen, you either didn't wait long
enough, or the coldwater valve is not letting water into the
hot water tank. It sound like that has happened and by now
you have probably burned up the heating element (which
should make little or no noise).

Hopefully you closed the relief valve. You could have left
it open until water started running out of it. Btw, the
ho****er tank is 220v, so you don't need to turn off all
electricity to the whole house, just turn off the 220
breakers.

You recognized a problem with the cold water valve at the
tank and failed to do anything. Big mistake.

Your next step is to turn the water off at the street and
replace the coldwater valve at the water heater. Before you
do that, again turn the handle and make sure the stem is
turning. If the stem is not turning, remove the handle and
put vice grips on the stem and turn it. After you get the
valve fixed or replaced, you can turn the water on, fill the
tank, and see if the heater elements are working. If after
and hour or two you get very cold water, the elements are
burned out and you will have to drain the tank and replace
the elements. Should you do that? I'm not sure, maybe just
buy a replacement tank for $150.

Cuse wrote:

It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the water
shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like crazy.
There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should I open
the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the water
drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain and
valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the tank
until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:

This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way and not
different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 % (vertical)
right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:

"Cuse" wrote in message
...


Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.




you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id probably
try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

Thanks. I did not know I need to open the tap to fill the tank. Of all
the step by step water tank drain instructions never did they mention
this. I do feel the tank is now full of water, but is lacking pressure
to push the water through the line.

The shower at the most downstream end does not even drip a drop of water
when I turn it on now. It has a pressure balanced valve so I figured if
I have no hot water pressure it will not run at all. The sink faucet
has normal cold water, and no hot water. But if I go back to the
kitchen (which is the closest to the water heater) and turn that on, the
bathroom faucet will now have water out with the lever on hot. Granted,
the water is cold, but now my worries is not so much hot water, is this
exercise seems to have cause the entire house water pressure to drop or
somehow air has gotten into the system.

Cuse

George E. Cawthon wrote:

Yes you need a tap opened to fill the tank. If you open the
kitchen faucet to hot water, (or any other faucet) the tank
should fill and then water would come out the open faucet.
Since that doesn't happen, you either didn't wait long
enough, or the coldwater valve is not letting water into the
hot water tank. It sound like that has happened and by now
you have probably burned up the heating element (which
should make little or no noise).

Hopefully you closed the relief valve. You could have left
it open until water started running out of it. Btw, the
ho****er tank is 220v, so you don't need to turn off all
electricity to the whole house, just turn off the 220
breakers.

You recognized a problem with the cold water valve at the
tank and failed to do anything. Big mistake.

Your next step is to turn the water off at the street and
replace the coldwater valve at the water heater. Before you
do that, again turn the handle and make sure the stem is
turning. If the stem is not turning, remove the handle and
put vice grips on the stem and turn it. After you get the
valve fixed or replaced, you can turn the water on, fill the
tank, and see if the heater elements are working. If after
and hour or two you get very cold water, the elements are
burned out and you will have to drain the tank and replace
the elements. Should you do that? I'm not sure, maybe just
buy a replacement tank for $150.

Cuse wrote:


It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the water
shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like crazy.
There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should I open
the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the water
drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain and
valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the tank
until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:



This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way and not
different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 % (vertical)
right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:



"Cuse" wrote in message
...




Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.




you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id probably
try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

Thanks. I did not know I need to open the tap to fill the tank. Of all
the step by step water tank drain instructions never did they mention
this. I do feel the tank is now full of water, but is lacking pressure
to push the water through the line.

The shower at the most downstream end does not even drip a drop of water
when I turn it on now. It has a pressure balanced valve so I figured if
I have no hot water pressure it will not run at all. The sink faucet
has normal cold water, and no hot water. But if I go back to the
kitchen (which is the closest to the water heater) and turn that on, the
bathroom faucet will now have water out with the lever on hot. Granted,
the water is cold, but now my worries is not so much hot water, is this
exercise seems to have cause the entire house water pressure to drop or
somehow air has gotten into the system.

Cuse

George E. Cawthon wrote:

Yes you need a tap opened to fill the tank. If you open the
kitchen faucet to hot water, (or any other faucet) the tank
should fill and then water would come out the open faucet.
Since that doesn't happen, you either didn't wait long
enough, or the coldwater valve is not letting water into the
hot water tank. It sound like that has happened and by now
you have probably burned up the heating element (which
should make little or no noise).

Hopefully you closed the relief valve. You could have left
it open until water started running out of it. Btw, the
ho****er tank is 220v, so you don't need to turn off all
electricity to the whole house, just turn off the 220
breakers.

You recognized a problem with the cold water valve at the
tank and failed to do anything. Big mistake.

Your next step is to turn the water off at the street and
replace the coldwater valve at the water heater. Before you
do that, again turn the handle and make sure the stem is
turning. If the stem is not turning, remove the handle and
put vice grips on the stem and turn it. After you get the
valve fixed or replaced, you can turn the water on, fill the
tank, and see if the heater elements are working. If after
and hour or two you get very cold water, the elements are
burned out and you will have to drain the tank and replace
the elements. Should you do that? I'm not sure, maybe just
buy a replacement tank for $150.

Cuse wrote:


It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the water
shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like crazy.
There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should I open
the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the water
drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain and
valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the tank
until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:



This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way and not
different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 % (vertical)
right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:



"Cuse" wrote in message
...




Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.




you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id probably
try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

If at any time you drained the water level down below a heater,
it will likely have burned itself up, and they can be replaced.

If you replace a valve, I suggest using a ball valve instead of a gate
or other style valve.

Start at the beginning. Under each of the cover plates, there are
round things that are individual thermostats. One for each of the
heaters.

Is the line coming into the house, the one at the main water cutoff valve,
steel or copper line?


Cuse wrote in message
...
Thanks. I did not know I need to open the tap to fill the tank. Of all
the step by step water tank drain instructions never did they mention
this. I do feel the tank is now full of water, but is lacking pressure
to push the water through the line.

The shower at the most downstream end does not even drip a drop of water
when I turn it on now. It has a pressure balanced valve so I figured if
I have no hot water pressure it will not run at all. The sink faucet
has normal cold water, and no hot water. But if I go back to the
kitchen (which is the closest to the water heater) and turn that on, the
bathroom faucet will now have water out with the lever on hot. Granted,
the water is cold, but now my worries is not so much hot water, is this
exercise seems to have cause the entire house water pressure to drop or
somehow air has gotten into the system.

Cuse

George E. Cawthon wrote:

Yes you need a tap opened to fill the tank. If you open the
kitchen faucet to hot water, (or any other faucet) the tank
should fill and then water would come out the open faucet.
Since that doesn't happen, you either didn't wait long
enough, or the coldwater valve is not letting water into the
hot water tank. It sound like that has happened and by now
you have probably burned up the heating element (which
should make little or no noise).

Hopefully you closed the relief valve. You could have left
it open until water started running out of it. Btw, the
ho****er tank is 220v, so you don't need to turn off all
electricity to the whole house, just turn off the 220
breakers.

You recognized a problem with the cold water valve at the
tank and failed to do anything. Big mistake.

Your next step is to turn the water off at the street and
replace the coldwater valve at the water heater. Before you
do that, again turn the handle and make sure the stem is
turning. If the stem is not turning, remove the handle and
put vice grips on the stem and turn it. After you get the
valve fixed or replaced, you can turn the water on, fill the
tank, and see if the heater elements are working. If after
and hour or two you get very cold water, the elements are
burned out and you will have to drain the tank and replace
the elements. Should you do that? I'm not sure, maybe just
buy a replacement tank for $150.

Cuse wrote:


It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the water
shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like crazy.
There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should I open
the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the water
drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain and
valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the tank
until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:



This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way and not
different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 % (vertical)
right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:



"Cuse" wrote in message
...




Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.




you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id probably
try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

If at any time you drained the water level down below a heater,
it will likely have burned itself up, and they can be replaced.

If you replace a valve, I suggest using a ball valve instead of a gate
or other style valve.

Start at the beginning. Under each of the cover plates, there are
round things that are individual thermostats. One for each of the
heaters.

Is the line coming into the house, the one at the main water cutoff valve,
steel or copper line?


Cuse wrote in message
...
Thanks. I did not know I need to open the tap to fill the tank. Of all
the step by step water tank drain instructions never did they mention
this. I do feel the tank is now full of water, but is lacking pressure
to push the water through the line.

The shower at the most downstream end does not even drip a drop of water
when I turn it on now. It has a pressure balanced valve so I figured if
I have no hot water pressure it will not run at all. The sink faucet
has normal cold water, and no hot water. But if I go back to the
kitchen (which is the closest to the water heater) and turn that on, the
bathroom faucet will now have water out with the lever on hot. Granted,
the water is cold, but now my worries is not so much hot water, is this
exercise seems to have cause the entire house water pressure to drop or
somehow air has gotten into the system.

Cuse

George E. Cawthon wrote:

Yes you need a tap opened to fill the tank. If you open the
kitchen faucet to hot water, (or any other faucet) the tank
should fill and then water would come out the open faucet.
Since that doesn't happen, you either didn't wait long
enough, or the coldwater valve is not letting water into the
hot water tank. It sound like that has happened and by now
you have probably burned up the heating element (which
should make little or no noise).

Hopefully you closed the relief valve. You could have left
it open until water started running out of it. Btw, the
ho****er tank is 220v, so you don't need to turn off all
electricity to the whole house, just turn off the 220
breakers.

You recognized a problem with the cold water valve at the
tank and failed to do anything. Big mistake.

Your next step is to turn the water off at the street and
replace the coldwater valve at the water heater. Before you
do that, again turn the handle and make sure the stem is
turning. If the stem is not turning, remove the handle and
put vice grips on the stem and turn it. After you get the
valve fixed or replaced, you can turn the water on, fill the
tank, and see if the heater elements are working. If after
and hour or two you get very cold water, the elements are
burned out and you will have to drain the tank and replace
the elements. Should you do that? I'm not sure, maybe just
buy a replacement tank for $150.

Cuse wrote:


It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the water
shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like crazy.
There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should I open
the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the water
drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain and
valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the tank
until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:



This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way and not
different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 % (vertical)
right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:



"Cuse" wrote in message
...




Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.




you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id probably
try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

Michael Baugh wrote:

If at any time you drained the water level down below a heater,
it will likely have burned itself up, and they can be replaced.

If you replace a valve, I suggest using a ball valve instead of a gate
or other style valve.

I will keep this in mind.


Start at the beginning. Under each of the cover plates, there are
round things that are individual thermostats. One for each of the
heaters.

Is the line coming into the house, the one at the main water cutoff valve,
steel or copper line?


Galvanized steel I think, but painted.

Here are the diagnosis I have done so far.

I left the power to the heater on last night, and this morning I felt
the hot and water copper pipes that comes out of the heater. They were
both hot. This tells me the heating elements are working and the water
inside the tank is hot.

I then turned off the power to the heater.

I then opened the kitchen faucet (hot side) for 30 seconds. Water came
out, hot water, but the pressure is very low, I would say the hot water
flow rate is about 10% of the cold water flow rate. Then it practically
reduced to a dizzle after 10 seconds.

I went back into the garage and felt the copper pipe section after the
valve. It felt cold now. This tells me while I had the kitchen faucet
on, hot water was drawn from the heater and cold water entered the
heater and now the pipe contains new cold water. The valve was not
closed. I also turned on the kitchen faucet for another 30 seconds,
shut it odd and listen closely to the copper pipe, I can hear water
flowing through it.

I feel the tank is full but there is no water pressure to deliver the
hot water.

Next, I decide to look at the valve to see may be there is a partial
blockage.

I used a marker to place a dot on the shaft of the valve stem. I turned
the valve and it moved. So this tells me it is not the handle By the
way the stop valve is a T connection, brass, says "Mueller Streamline
3/4 200 WOG" not sure if this means anything. All it tells me is that
it is 3/4". It has a blue, circular handle. I am not sure if it is a
ball valve, or a gate valve, or a compression valve. All I know is that
when I turned the handle in both directions, the shaft does turn with
it, but the shaft does not go higher or lower like I am tightening or
loosening it.

I turned off water supply to the house, the unscrew the nut on top. The
seems to loosen the handle but nothing else. I retightened it.

Next, I tried to open the bigger nut at the bottom, I think the call it
the "valve stem"? But I cannot. If I turn it real hard it starts to
stress the copper pipe. If I try to steady the valve itself while I do
this, it is impossible, the heater is located at the corner of the
garage and the connection is right above. The angle is such that I
cannot do this by myself. I am not sure about getting a plumber. Last
time when the heater was installed, the plumber had to solder a pipe
inside the wall, it burned the insulation and started a fire that went
all the way to the ceiling.

I just cannot figure out what is wrong. The most logical explanation is
that the stop valve is bad (or is clogged) but is partially opened,
could this account for all the pressure loss?

Sum


Cuse wrote in message
...


Thanks. I did not know I need to open the tap to fill the tank. Of all
the step by step water tank drain instructions never did they mention
this. I do feel the tank is now full of water, but is lacking pressure
to push the water through the line.

The shower at the most downstream end does not even drip a drop of water
when I turn it on now. It has a pressure balanced valve so I figured if
I have no hot water pressure it will not run at all. The sink faucet
has normal cold water, and no hot water. But if I go back to the
kitchen (which is the closest to the water heater) and turn that on, the
bathroom faucet will now have water out with the lever on hot. Granted,
the water is cold, but now my worries is not so much hot water, is this
exercise seems to have cause the entire house water pressure to drop or
somehow air has gotten into the system.

Cuse

George E. Cawthon wrote:



Yes you need a tap opened to fill the tank. If you open the
kitchen faucet to hot water, (or any other faucet) the tank
should fill and then water would come out the open faucet.
Since that doesn't happen, you either didn't wait long
enough, or the coldwater valve is not letting water into the
hot water tank. It sound like that has happened and by now
you have probably burned up the heating element (which
should make little or no noise).

Hopefully you closed the relief valve. You could have left
it open until water started running out of it. Btw, the
ho****er tank is 220v, so you don't need to turn off all
electricity to the whole house, just turn off the 220
breakers.

You recognized a problem with the cold water valve at the
tank and failed to do anything. Big mistake.

Your next step is to turn the water off at the street and
replace the coldwater valve at the water heater. Before you
do that, again turn the handle and make sure the stem is
turning. If the stem is not turning, remove the handle and
put vice grips on the stem and turn it. After you get the
valve fixed or replaced, you can turn the water on, fill the
tank, and see if the heater elements are working. If after
and hour or two you get very cold water, the elements are
burned out and you will have to drain the tank and replace
the elements. Should you do that? I'm not sure, maybe just
buy a replacement tank for $150.

Cuse wrote:




It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the water
shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like crazy.
There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should I open
the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the water
drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain and
valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the tank
until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:





This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way and not
different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 % (vertical)
right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:





"Cuse" wrote in message
...






Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.





you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id probably
try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

Michael Baugh wrote:

If at any time you drained the water level down below a heater,
it will likely have burned itself up, and they can be replaced.

If you replace a valve, I suggest using a ball valve instead of a gate
or other style valve.

I will keep this in mind.


Start at the beginning. Under each of the cover plates, there are
round things that are individual thermostats. One for each of the
heaters.

Is the line coming into the house, the one at the main water cutoff valve,
steel or copper line?


Galvanized steel I think, but painted.

Here are the diagnosis I have done so far.

I left the power to the heater on last night, and this morning I felt
the hot and water copper pipes that comes out of the heater. They were
both hot. This tells me the heating elements are working and the water
inside the tank is hot.

I then turned off the power to the heater.

I then opened the kitchen faucet (hot side) for 30 seconds. Water came
out, hot water, but the pressure is very low, I would say the hot water
flow rate is about 10% of the cold water flow rate. Then it practically
reduced to a dizzle after 10 seconds.

I went back into the garage and felt the copper pipe section after the
valve. It felt cold now. This tells me while I had the kitchen faucet
on, hot water was drawn from the heater and cold water entered the
heater and now the pipe contains new cold water. The valve was not
closed. I also turned on the kitchen faucet for another 30 seconds,
shut it odd and listen closely to the copper pipe, I can hear water
flowing through it.

I feel the tank is full but there is no water pressure to deliver the
hot water.

Next, I decide to look at the valve to see may be there is a partial
blockage.

I used a marker to place a dot on the shaft of the valve stem. I turned
the valve and it moved. So this tells me it is not the handle By the
way the stop valve is a T connection, brass, says "Mueller Streamline
3/4 200 WOG" not sure if this means anything. All it tells me is that
it is 3/4". It has a blue, circular handle. I am not sure if it is a
ball valve, or a gate valve, or a compression valve. All I know is that
when I turned the handle in both directions, the shaft does turn with
it, but the shaft does not go higher or lower like I am tightening or
loosening it.

I turned off water supply to the house, the unscrew the nut on top. The
seems to loosen the handle but nothing else. I retightened it.

Next, I tried to open the bigger nut at the bottom, I think the call it
the "valve stem"? But I cannot. If I turn it real hard it starts to
stress the copper pipe. If I try to steady the valve itself while I do
this, it is impossible, the heater is located at the corner of the
garage and the connection is right above. The angle is such that I
cannot do this by myself. I am not sure about getting a plumber. Last
time when the heater was installed, the plumber had to solder a pipe
inside the wall, it burned the insulation and started a fire that went
all the way to the ceiling.

I just cannot figure out what is wrong. The most logical explanation is
that the stop valve is bad (or is clogged) but is partially opened,
could this account for all the pressure loss?

Sum


Cuse wrote in message
...


Thanks. I did not know I need to open the tap to fill the tank. Of all
the step by step water tank drain instructions never did they mention
this. I do feel the tank is now full of water, but is lacking pressure
to push the water through the line.

The shower at the most downstream end does not even drip a drop of water
when I turn it on now. It has a pressure balanced valve so I figured if
I have no hot water pressure it will not run at all. The sink faucet
has normal cold water, and no hot water. But if I go back to the
kitchen (which is the closest to the water heater) and turn that on, the
bathroom faucet will now have water out with the lever on hot. Granted,
the water is cold, but now my worries is not so much hot water, is this
exercise seems to have cause the entire house water pressure to drop or
somehow air has gotten into the system.

Cuse

George E. Cawthon wrote:



Yes you need a tap opened to fill the tank. If you open the
kitchen faucet to hot water, (or any other faucet) the tank
should fill and then water would come out the open faucet.
Since that doesn't happen, you either didn't wait long
enough, or the coldwater valve is not letting water into the
hot water tank. It sound like that has happened and by now
you have probably burned up the heating element (which
should make little or no noise).

Hopefully you closed the relief valve. You could have left
it open until water started running out of it. Btw, the
ho****er tank is 220v, so you don't need to turn off all
electricity to the whole house, just turn off the 220
breakers.

You recognized a problem with the cold water valve at the
tank and failed to do anything. Big mistake.

Your next step is to turn the water off at the street and
replace the coldwater valve at the water heater. Before you
do that, again turn the handle and make sure the stem is
turning. If the stem is not turning, remove the handle and
put vice grips on the stem and turn it. After you get the
valve fixed or replaced, you can turn the water on, fill the
tank, and see if the heater elements are working. If after
and hour or two you get very cold water, the elements are
burned out and you will have to drain the tank and replace
the elements. Should you do that? I'm not sure, maybe just
buy a replacement tank for $150.

Cuse wrote:




It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the water
shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like crazy.
There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should I open
the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the water
drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain and
valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the tank
until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:





This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way and not
different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 % (vertical)
right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:





"Cuse" wrote in message
...






Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.





you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id probably
try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

Michael Baugh wrote:

If at any time you drained the water level down below a heater,
it will likely have burned itself up, and they can be replaced.

If you replace a valve, I suggest using a ball valve instead of a gate
or other style valve.

I will keep this in mind.


Start at the beginning. Under each of the cover plates, there are
round things that are individual thermostats. One for each of the
heaters.

Is the line coming into the house, the one at the main water cutoff valve,
steel or copper line?


Galvanized steel I think, but painted.

Here are the diagnosis I have done so far.

I left the power to the heater on last night, and this morning I felt
the hot and water copper pipes that comes out of the heater. They were
both hot. This tells me the heating elements are working and the water
inside the tank is hot.

I then turned off the power to the heater.

I then opened the kitchen faucet (hot side) for 30 seconds. Water came
out, hot water, but the pressure is very low, I would say the hot water
flow rate is about 10% of the cold water flow rate. Then it practically
reduced to a dizzle after 10 seconds.

I went back into the garage and felt the copper pipe section after the
valve. It felt cold now. This tells me while I had the kitchen faucet
on, hot water was drawn from the heater and cold water entered the
heater and now the pipe contains new cold water. The valve was not
closed. I also turned on the kitchen faucet for another 30 seconds,
shut it odd and listen closely to the copper pipe, I can hear water
flowing through it.

I feel the tank is full but there is no water pressure to deliver the
hot water.

Next, I decide to look at the valve to see may be there is a partial
blockage.

I used a marker to place a dot on the shaft of the valve stem. I turned
the valve and it moved. So this tells me it is not the handle By the
way the stop valve is a T connection, brass, says "Mueller Streamline
3/4 200 WOG" not sure if this means anything. All it tells me is that
it is 3/4". It has a blue, circular handle. I am not sure if it is a
ball valve, or a gate valve, or a compression valve. All I know is that
when I turned the handle in both directions, the shaft does turn with
it, but the shaft does not go higher or lower like I am tightening or
loosening it.

I turned off water supply to the house, the unscrew the nut on top. The
seems to loosen the handle but nothing else. I retightened it.

Next, I tried to open the bigger nut at the bottom, I think the call it
the "valve stem"? But I cannot. If I turn it real hard it starts to
stress the copper pipe. If I try to steady the valve itself while I do
this, it is impossible, the heater is located at the corner of the
garage and the connection is right above. The angle is such that I
cannot do this by myself. I am not sure about getting a plumber. Last
time when the heater was installed, the plumber had to solder a pipe
inside the wall, it burned the insulation and started a fire that went
all the way to the ceiling.

I just cannot figure out what is wrong. The most logical explanation is
that the stop valve is bad (or is clogged) but is partially opened,
could this account for all the pressure loss?

Cuse


Cuse wrote in message
...


Thanks. I did not know I need to open the tap to fill the tank. Of all
the step by step water tank drain instructions never did they mention
this. I do feel the tank is now full of water, but is lacking pressure
to push the water through the line.

The shower at the most downstream end does not even drip a drop of water
when I turn it on now. It has a pressure balanced valve so I figured if
I have no hot water pressure it will not run at all. The sink faucet
has normal cold water, and no hot water. But if I go back to the
kitchen (which is the closest to the water heater) and turn that on, the
bathroom faucet will now have water out with the lever on hot. Granted,
the water is cold, but now my worries is not so much hot water, is this
exercise seems to have cause the entire house water pressure to drop or
somehow air has gotten into the system.

Cuse

George E. Cawthon wrote:



Yes you need a tap opened to fill the tank. If you open the
kitchen faucet to hot water, (or any other faucet) the tank
should fill and then water would come out the open faucet.
Since that doesn't happen, you either didn't wait long
enough, or the coldwater valve is not letting water into the
hot water tank. It sound like that has happened and by now
you have probably burned up the heating element (which
should make little or no noise).

Hopefully you closed the relief valve. You could have left
it open until water started running out of it. Btw, the
ho****er tank is 220v, so you don't need to turn off all
electricity to the whole house, just turn off the 220
breakers.

You recognized a problem with the cold water valve at the
tank and failed to do anything. Big mistake.

Your next step is to turn the water off at the street and
replace the coldwater valve at the water heater. Before you
do that, again turn the handle and make sure the stem is
turning. If the stem is not turning, remove the handle and
put vice grips on the stem and turn it. After you get the
valve fixed or replaced, you can turn the water on, fill the
tank, and see if the heater elements are working. If after
and hour or two you get very cold water, the elements are
burned out and you will have to drain the tank and replace
the elements. Should you do that? I'm not sure, maybe just
buy a replacement tank for $150.

Cuse wrote:




It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the water
shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like crazy.
There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should I open
the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the water
drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain and
valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the tank
until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:





This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way and not
different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 % (vertical)
right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:





"Cuse" wrote in message
...






Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.





you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id probably
try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

Michael Baugh wrote:

If at any time you drained the water level down below a heater,
it will likely have burned itself up, and they can be replaced.

If you replace a valve, I suggest using a ball valve instead of a gate
or other style valve.

I will keep this in mind.


Start at the beginning. Under each of the cover plates, there are
round things that are individual thermostats. One for each of the
heaters.

Is the line coming into the house, the one at the main water cutoff valve,
steel or copper line?


Galvanized steel I think, but painted.

Here are the diagnosis I have done so far.

I left the power to the heater on last night, and this morning I felt
the hot and water copper pipes that comes out of the heater. They were
both hot. This tells me the heating elements are working and the water
inside the tank is hot.

I then turned off the power to the heater.

I then opened the kitchen faucet (hot side) for 30 seconds. Water came
out, hot water, but the pressure is very low, I would say the hot water
flow rate is about 10% of the cold water flow rate. Then it practically
reduced to a dizzle after 10 seconds.

I went back into the garage and felt the copper pipe section after the
valve. It felt cold now. This tells me while I had the kitchen faucet
on, hot water was drawn from the heater and cold water entered the
heater and now the pipe contains new cold water. The valve was not
closed. I also turned on the kitchen faucet for another 30 seconds,
shut it odd and listen closely to the copper pipe, I can hear water
flowing through it.

I feel the tank is full but there is no water pressure to deliver the
hot water.

Next, I decide to look at the valve to see may be there is a partial
blockage.

I used a marker to place a dot on the shaft of the valve stem. I turned
the valve and it moved. So this tells me it is not the handle By the
way the stop valve is a T connection, brass, says "Mueller Streamline
3/4 200 WOG" not sure if this means anything. All it tells me is that
it is 3/4". It has a blue, circular handle. I am not sure if it is a
ball valve, or a gate valve, or a compression valve. All I know is that
when I turned the handle in both directions, the shaft does turn with
it, but the shaft does not go higher or lower like I am tightening or
loosening it.

I turned off water supply to the house, the unscrew the nut on top. The
seems to loosen the handle but nothing else. I retightened it.

Next, I tried to open the bigger nut at the bottom, I think the call it
the "valve stem"? But I cannot. If I turn it real hard it starts to
stress the copper pipe. If I try to steady the valve itself while I do
this, it is impossible, the heater is located at the corner of the
garage and the connection is right above. The angle is such that I
cannot do this by myself. I am not sure about getting a plumber. Last
time when the heater was installed, the plumber had to solder a pipe
inside the wall, it burned the insulation and started a fire that went
all the way to the ceiling.

I just cannot figure out what is wrong. The most logical explanation is
that the stop valve is bad (or is clogged) but is partially opened,
could this account for all the pressure loss?

Cuse


Cuse wrote in message
...


Thanks. I did not know I need to open the tap to fill the tank. Of all
the step by step water tank drain instructions never did they mention
this. I do feel the tank is now full of water, but is lacking pressure
to push the water through the line.

The shower at the most downstream end does not even drip a drop of water
when I turn it on now. It has a pressure balanced valve so I figured if
I have no hot water pressure it will not run at all. The sink faucet
has normal cold water, and no hot water. But if I go back to the
kitchen (which is the closest to the water heater) and turn that on, the
bathroom faucet will now have water out with the lever on hot. Granted,
the water is cold, but now my worries is not so much hot water, is this
exercise seems to have cause the entire house water pressure to drop or
somehow air has gotten into the system.

Cuse

George E. Cawthon wrote:



Yes you need a tap opened to fill the tank. If you open the
kitchen faucet to hot water, (or any other faucet) the tank
should fill and then water would come out the open faucet.
Since that doesn't happen, you either didn't wait long
enough, or the coldwater valve is not letting water into the
hot water tank. It sound like that has happened and by now
you have probably burned up the heating element (which
should make little or no noise).

Hopefully you closed the relief valve. You could have left
it open until water started running out of it. Btw, the
ho****er tank is 220v, so you don't need to turn off all
electricity to the whole house, just turn off the 220
breakers.

You recognized a problem with the cold water valve at the
tank and failed to do anything. Big mistake.

Your next step is to turn the water off at the street and
replace the coldwater valve at the water heater. Before you
do that, again turn the handle and make sure the stem is
turning. If the stem is not turning, remove the handle and
put vice grips on the stem and turn it. After you get the
valve fixed or replaced, you can turn the water on, fill the
tank, and see if the heater elements are working. If after
and hour or two you get very cold water, the elements are
burned out and you will have to drain the tank and replace
the elements. Should you do that? I'm not sure, maybe just
buy a replacement tank for $150.

Cuse wrote:




It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the water
shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like crazy.
There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should I open
the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the water
drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain and
valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the tank
until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:





This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way and not
different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 % (vertical)
right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:





"Cuse" wrote in message
...






Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.





you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id probably
try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

I guess there is another logical explanation. Somehow the draining of
the tank induced a leak somewhere in the hot water pipes which accounts
for the complete loss of pressure?

Also does the hot water heater add any pressure to the pipes? Is there
any mechanism in the heater to add pressure? The heater saids "Bradford
White HydroJet..." is there something inside that may need to provide
the pressure?

Cuse

Cuse wrote:

Michael Baugh wrote:

If at any time you drained the water level down below a heater,
it will likely have burned itself up, and they can be replaced.

If you replace a valve, I suggest using a ball valve instead of a gate
or other style valve.

I will keep this in mind.


Start at the beginning. Under each of the cover plates, there are
round things that are individual thermostats. One for each of the
heaters.

Is the line coming into the house, the one at the main water cutoff
valve,
steel or copper line?


Galvanized steel I think, but painted.

Here are the diagnosis I have done so far.

I left the power to the heater on last night, and this morning I felt
the hot and water copper pipes that comes out of the heater. They were
both hot. This tells me the heating elements are working and the water
inside the tank is hot.

I then turned off the power to the heater.

I then opened the kitchen faucet (hot side) for 30 seconds. Water came
out, hot water, but the pressure is very low, I would say the hot water
flow rate is about 10% of the cold water flow rate. Then it practically
reduced to a dizzle after 10 seconds.

I went back into the garage and felt the copper pipe section after the
valve. It felt cold now. This tells me while I had the kitchen faucet
on, hot water was drawn from the heater and cold water entered the
heater and now the pipe contains new cold water. The valve was not
closed. I also turned on the kitchen faucet for another 30 seconds,
shut it odd and listen closely to the copper pipe, I can hear water
flowing through it.

I feel the tank is full but there is no water pressure to deliver the
hot water.

Next, I decide to look at the valve to see may be there is a partial
blockage.

I used a marker to place a dot on the shaft of the valve stem. I turned
the valve and it moved. So this tells me it is not the handle By the
way the stop valve is a T connection, brass, says "Mueller Streamline
3/4 200 WOG" not sure if this means anything. All it tells me is that
it is 3/4". It has a blue, circular handle. I am not sure if it is a
ball valve, or a gate valve, or a compression valve. All I know is that
when I turned the handle in both directions, the shaft does turn with
it, but the shaft does not go higher or lower like I am tightening or
loosening it.

I turned off water supply to the house, the unscrew the nut on top. The
seems to loosen the handle but nothing else. I retightened it.

Next, I tried to open the bigger nut at the bottom, I think the call it
the "valve stem"? But I cannot. If I turn it real hard it starts to
stress the copper pipe. If I try to steady the valve itself while I do
this, it is impossible, the heater is located at the corner of the
garage and the connection is right above. The angle is such that I
cannot do this by myself. I am not sure about getting a plumber. Last
time when the heater was installed, the plumber had to solder a pipe
inside the wall, it burned the insulation and started a fire that went
all the way to the ceiling.

I just cannot figure out what is wrong. The most logical explanation is
that the stop valve is bad (or is clogged) but is partially opened,
could this account for all the pressure loss?

Cuse


Cuse wrote in message
...


Thanks. I did not know I need to open the tap to fill the tank. Of
all
the step by step water tank drain instructions never did they mention
this. I do feel the tank is now full of water, but is lacking pressure
to push the water through the line.

The shower at the most downstream end does not even drip a drop of
water
when I turn it on now. It has a pressure balanced valve so I
figured if
I have no hot water pressure it will not run at all. The sink faucet
has normal cold water, and no hot water. But if I go back to the
kitchen (which is the closest to the water heater) and turn that on,
the
bathroom faucet will now have water out with the lever on hot.
Granted,
the water is cold, but now my worries is not so much hot water, is this
exercise seems to have cause the entire house water pressure to drop or
somehow air has gotten into the system.

Cuse

George E. Cawthon wrote:



Yes you need a tap opened to fill the tank. If you open the
kitchen faucet to hot water, (or any other faucet) the tank
should fill and then water would come out the open faucet.
Since that doesn't happen, you either didn't wait long
enough, or the coldwater valve is not letting water into the
hot water tank. It sound like that has happened and by now
you have probably burned up the heating element (which
should make little or no noise).

Hopefully you closed the relief valve. You could have left
it open until water started running out of it. Btw, the
ho****er tank is 220v, so you don't need to turn off all
electricity to the whole house, just turn off the 220
breakers.

You recognized a problem with the cold water valve at the
tank and failed to do anything. Big mistake.

Your next step is to turn the water off at the street and
replace the coldwater valve at the water heater. Before you
do that, again turn the handle and make sure the stem is
turning. If the stem is not turning, remove the handle and
put vice grips on the stem and turn it. After you get the
valve fixed or replaced, you can turn the water on, fill the
tank, and see if the heater elements are working. If after
and hour or two you get very cold water, the elements are
burned out and you will have to drain the tank and replace
the elements. Should you do that? I'm not sure, maybe just
buy a replacement tank for $150.

Cuse wrote:




It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled
now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started
and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the
water
shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like crazy.
There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should I open
the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the
water
drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain and
valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the tank
until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:





This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way
and not
different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house
will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 %
(vertical)
right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:





"Cuse" wrote in message
...






Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it
kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all
as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some
reason.





you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id
probably
try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

I guess there is another logical explanation. Somehow the draining of
the tank induced a leak somewhere in the hot water pipes which accounts
for the complete loss of pressure?

Also does the hot water heater add any pressure to the pipes? Is there
any mechanism in the heater to add pressure? The heater saids "Bradford
White HydroJet..." is there something inside that may need to provide
the pressure?

Cuse

Cuse wrote:

Michael Baugh wrote:

If at any time you drained the water level down below a heater,
it will likely have burned itself up, and they can be replaced.

If you replace a valve, I suggest using a ball valve instead of a gate
or other style valve.

I will keep this in mind.


Start at the beginning. Under each of the cover plates, there are
round things that are individual thermostats. One for each of the
heaters.

Is the line coming into the house, the one at the main water cutoff
valve,
steel or copper line?


Galvanized steel I think, but painted.

Here are the diagnosis I have done so far.

I left the power to the heater on last night, and this morning I felt
the hot and water copper pipes that comes out of the heater. They were
both hot. This tells me the heating elements are working and the water
inside the tank is hot.

I then turned off the power to the heater.

I then opened the kitchen faucet (hot side) for 30 seconds. Water came
out, hot water, but the pressure is very low, I would say the hot water
flow rate is about 10% of the cold water flow rate. Then it practically
reduced to a dizzle after 10 seconds.

I went back into the garage and felt the copper pipe section after the
valve. It felt cold now. This tells me while I had the kitchen faucet
on, hot water was drawn from the heater and cold water entered the
heater and now the pipe contains new cold water. The valve was not
closed. I also turned on the kitchen faucet for another 30 seconds,
shut it odd and listen closely to the copper pipe, I can hear water
flowing through it.

I feel the tank is full but there is no water pressure to deliver the
hot water.

Next, I decide to look at the valve to see may be there is a partial
blockage.

I used a marker to place a dot on the shaft of the valve stem. I turned
the valve and it moved. So this tells me it is not the handle By the
way the stop valve is a T connection, brass, says "Mueller Streamline
3/4 200 WOG" not sure if this means anything. All it tells me is that
it is 3/4". It has a blue, circular handle. I am not sure if it is a
ball valve, or a gate valve, or a compression valve. All I know is that
when I turned the handle in both directions, the shaft does turn with
it, but the shaft does not go higher or lower like I am tightening or
loosening it.

I turned off water supply to the house, the unscrew the nut on top. The
seems to loosen the handle but nothing else. I retightened it.

Next, I tried to open the bigger nut at the bottom, I think the call it
the "valve stem"? But I cannot. If I turn it real hard it starts to
stress the copper pipe. If I try to steady the valve itself while I do
this, it is impossible, the heater is located at the corner of the
garage and the connection is right above. The angle is such that I
cannot do this by myself. I am not sure about getting a plumber. Last
time when the heater was installed, the plumber had to solder a pipe
inside the wall, it burned the insulation and started a fire that went
all the way to the ceiling.

I just cannot figure out what is wrong. The most logical explanation is
that the stop valve is bad (or is clogged) but is partially opened,
could this account for all the pressure loss?

Cuse


Cuse wrote in message
...


Thanks. I did not know I need to open the tap to fill the tank. Of
all
the step by step water tank drain instructions never did they mention
this. I do feel the tank is now full of water, but is lacking pressure
to push the water through the line.

The shower at the most downstream end does not even drip a drop of
water
when I turn it on now. It has a pressure balanced valve so I
figured if
I have no hot water pressure it will not run at all. The sink faucet
has normal cold water, and no hot water. But if I go back to the
kitchen (which is the closest to the water heater) and turn that on,
the
bathroom faucet will now have water out with the lever on hot.
Granted,
the water is cold, but now my worries is not so much hot water, is this
exercise seems to have cause the entire house water pressure to drop or
somehow air has gotten into the system.

Cuse

George E. Cawthon wrote:



Yes you need a tap opened to fill the tank. If you open the
kitchen faucet to hot water, (or any other faucet) the tank
should fill and then water would come out the open faucet.
Since that doesn't happen, you either didn't wait long
enough, or the coldwater valve is not letting water into the
hot water tank. It sound like that has happened and by now
you have probably burned up the heating element (which
should make little or no noise).

Hopefully you closed the relief valve. You could have left
it open until water started running out of it. Btw, the
ho****er tank is 220v, so you don't need to turn off all
electricity to the whole house, just turn off the 220
breakers.

You recognized a problem with the cold water valve at the
tank and failed to do anything. Big mistake.

Your next step is to turn the water off at the street and
replace the coldwater valve at the water heater. Before you
do that, again turn the handle and make sure the stem is
turning. If the stem is not turning, remove the handle and
put vice grips on the stem and turn it. After you get the
valve fixed or replaced, you can turn the water on, fill the
tank, and see if the heater elements are working. If after
and hour or two you get very cold water, the elements are
burned out and you will have to drain the tank and replace
the elements. Should you do that? I'm not sure, maybe just
buy a replacement tank for $150.

Cuse wrote:




It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled
now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started
and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the
water
shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like crazy.
There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should I open
the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the
water
drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain and
valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the tank
until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:





This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way
and not
different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house
will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 %
(vertical)
right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:





"Cuse" wrote in message
...






Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it
kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all
as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some
reason.





you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id
probably
try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

One more thing. The pressure relief valve is connected to a copper pipe
that goes inside the wall. I remember when I drained the tank I heard a
lot of noise coming from behind the wall (which I thought was strange at
the time). Could there be some sort of reverse siphoning going on from
the drain? Or am I going nuts?

Cuse

Cuse wrote:

Michael Baugh wrote:

If at any time you drained the water level down below a heater,
it will likely have burned itself up, and they can be replaced.

If you replace a valve, I suggest using a ball valve instead of a gate
or other style valve.

I will keep this in mind.


Start at the beginning. Under each of the cover plates, there are
round things that are individual thermostats. One for each of the
heaters.

Is the line coming into the house, the one at the main water cutoff
valve,
steel or copper line?


Galvanized steel I think, but painted.

Here are the diagnosis I have done so far.

I left the power to the heater on last night, and this morning I felt
the hot and water copper pipes that comes out of the heater. They were
both hot. This tells me the heating elements are working and the water
inside the tank is hot.

I then turned off the power to the heater.

I then opened the kitchen faucet (hot side) for 30 seconds. Water came
out, hot water, but the pressure is very low, I would say the hot water
flow rate is about 10% of the cold water flow rate. Then it practically
reduced to a dizzle after 10 seconds.

I went back into the garage and felt the copper pipe section after the
valve. It felt cold now. This tells me while I had the kitchen faucet
on, hot water was drawn from the heater and cold water entered the
heater and now the pipe contains new cold water. The valve was not
closed. I also turned on the kitchen faucet for another 30 seconds,
shut it odd and listen closely to the copper pipe, I can hear water
flowing through it.

I feel the tank is full but there is no water pressure to deliver the
hot water.

Next, I decide to look at the valve to see may be there is a partial
blockage.

I used a marker to place a dot on the shaft of the valve stem. I turned
the valve and it moved. So this tells me it is not the handle By the
way the stop valve is a T connection, brass, says "Mueller Streamline
3/4 200 WOG" not sure if this means anything. All it tells me is that
it is 3/4". It has a blue, circular handle. I am not sure if it is a
ball valve, or a gate valve, or a compression valve. All I know is that
when I turned the handle in both directions, the shaft does turn with
it, but the shaft does not go higher or lower like I am tightening or
loosening it.

I turned off water supply to the house, the unscrew the nut on top. The
seems to loosen the handle but nothing else. I retightened it.

Next, I tried to open the bigger nut at the bottom, I think the call it
the "valve stem"? But I cannot. If I turn it real hard it starts to
stress the copper pipe. If I try to steady the valve itself while I do
this, it is impossible, the heater is located at the corner of the
garage and the connection is right above. The angle is such that I
cannot do this by myself. I am not sure about getting a plumber. Last
time when the heater was installed, the plumber had to solder a pipe
inside the wall, it burned the insulation and started a fire that went
all the way to the ceiling.

I just cannot figure out what is wrong. The most logical explanation is
that the stop valve is bad (or is clogged) but is partially opened,
could this account for all the pressure loss?

Cuse


Cuse wrote in message
...


Thanks. I did not know I need to open the tap to fill the tank. Of
all
the step by step water tank drain instructions never did they mention
this. I do feel the tank is now full of water, but is lacking pressure
to push the water through the line.

The shower at the most downstream end does not even drip a drop of
water
when I turn it on now. It has a pressure balanced valve so I
figured if
I have no hot water pressure it will not run at all. The sink faucet
has normal cold water, and no hot water. But if I go back to the
kitchen (which is the closest to the water heater) and turn that on,
the
bathroom faucet will now have water out with the lever on hot.
Granted,
the water is cold, but now my worries is not so much hot water, is this
exercise seems to have cause the entire house water pressure to drop or
somehow air has gotten into the system.

Cuse

George E. Cawthon wrote:



Yes you need a tap opened to fill the tank. If you open the
kitchen faucet to hot water, (or any other faucet) the tank
should fill and then water would come out the open faucet.
Since that doesn't happen, you either didn't wait long
enough, or the coldwater valve is not letting water into the
hot water tank. It sound like that has happened and by now
you have probably burned up the heating element (which
should make little or no noise).

Hopefully you closed the relief valve. You could have left
it open until water started running out of it. Btw, the
ho****er tank is 220v, so you don't need to turn off all
electricity to the whole house, just turn off the 220
breakers.

You recognized a problem with the cold water valve at the
tank and failed to do anything. Big mistake.

Your next step is to turn the water off at the street and
replace the coldwater valve at the water heater. Before you
do that, again turn the handle and make sure the stem is
turning. If the stem is not turning, remove the handle and
put vice grips on the stem and turn it. After you get the
valve fixed or replaced, you can turn the water on, fill the
tank, and see if the heater elements are working. If after
and hour or two you get very cold water, the elements are
burned out and you will have to drain the tank and replace
the elements. Should you do that? I'm not sure, maybe just
buy a replacement tank for $150.

Cuse wrote:




It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled
now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started
and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the
water
shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like crazy.
There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should I open
the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the
water
drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain and
valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the tank
until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:





This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way
and not
different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house
will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 %
(vertical)
right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:





"Cuse" wrote in message
...






Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it
kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all
as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some
reason.





you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id
probably
try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

One more thing. The pressure relief valve is connected to a copper pipe
that goes inside the wall. I remember when I drained the tank I heard a
lot of noise coming from behind the wall (which I thought was strange at
the time). Could there be some sort of reverse siphoning going on from
the drain? Or am I going nuts?

Cuse

Cuse wrote:

Michael Baugh wrote:

If at any time you drained the water level down below a heater,
it will likely have burned itself up, and they can be replaced.

If you replace a valve, I suggest using a ball valve instead of a gate
or other style valve.

I will keep this in mind.


Start at the beginning. Under each of the cover plates, there are
round things that are individual thermostats. One for each of the
heaters.

Is the line coming into the house, the one at the main water cutoff
valve,
steel or copper line?


Galvanized steel I think, but painted.

Here are the diagnosis I have done so far.

I left the power to the heater on last night, and this morning I felt
the hot and water copper pipes that comes out of the heater. They were
both hot. This tells me the heating elements are working and the water
inside the tank is hot.

I then turned off the power to the heater.

I then opened the kitchen faucet (hot side) for 30 seconds. Water came
out, hot water, but the pressure is very low, I would say the hot water
flow rate is about 10% of the cold water flow rate. Then it practically
reduced to a dizzle after 10 seconds.

I went back into the garage and felt the copper pipe section after the
valve. It felt cold now. This tells me while I had the kitchen faucet
on, hot water was drawn from the heater and cold water entered the
heater and now the pipe contains new cold water. The valve was not
closed. I also turned on the kitchen faucet for another 30 seconds,
shut it odd and listen closely to the copper pipe, I can hear water
flowing through it.

I feel the tank is full but there is no water pressure to deliver the
hot water.

Next, I decide to look at the valve to see may be there is a partial
blockage.

I used a marker to place a dot on the shaft of the valve stem. I turned
the valve and it moved. So this tells me it is not the handle By the
way the stop valve is a T connection, brass, says "Mueller Streamline
3/4 200 WOG" not sure if this means anything. All it tells me is that
it is 3/4". It has a blue, circular handle. I am not sure if it is a
ball valve, or a gate valve, or a compression valve. All I know is that
when I turned the handle in both directions, the shaft does turn with
it, but the shaft does not go higher or lower like I am tightening or
loosening it.

I turned off water supply to the house, the unscrew the nut on top. The
seems to loosen the handle but nothing else. I retightened it.

Next, I tried to open the bigger nut at the bottom, I think the call it
the "valve stem"? But I cannot. If I turn it real hard it starts to
stress the copper pipe. If I try to steady the valve itself while I do
this, it is impossible, the heater is located at the corner of the
garage and the connection is right above. The angle is such that I
cannot do this by myself. I am not sure about getting a plumber. Last
time when the heater was installed, the plumber had to solder a pipe
inside the wall, it burned the insulation and started a fire that went
all the way to the ceiling.

I just cannot figure out what is wrong. The most logical explanation is
that the stop valve is bad (or is clogged) but is partially opened,
could this account for all the pressure loss?

Cuse


Cuse wrote in message
...


Thanks. I did not know I need to open the tap to fill the tank. Of
all
the step by step water tank drain instructions never did they mention
this. I do feel the tank is now full of water, but is lacking pressure
to push the water through the line.

The shower at the most downstream end does not even drip a drop of
water
when I turn it on now. It has a pressure balanced valve so I
figured if
I have no hot water pressure it will not run at all. The sink faucet
has normal cold water, and no hot water. But if I go back to the
kitchen (which is the closest to the water heater) and turn that on,
the
bathroom faucet will now have water out with the lever on hot.
Granted,
the water is cold, but now my worries is not so much hot water, is this
exercise seems to have cause the entire house water pressure to drop or
somehow air has gotten into the system.

Cuse

George E. Cawthon wrote:



Yes you need a tap opened to fill the tank. If you open the
kitchen faucet to hot water, (or any other faucet) the tank
should fill and then water would come out the open faucet.
Since that doesn't happen, you either didn't wait long
enough, or the coldwater valve is not letting water into the
hot water tank. It sound like that has happened and by now
you have probably burned up the heating element (which
should make little or no noise).

Hopefully you closed the relief valve. You could have left
it open until water started running out of it. Btw, the
ho****er tank is 220v, so you don't need to turn off all
electricity to the whole house, just turn off the 220
breakers.

You recognized a problem with the cold water valve at the
tank and failed to do anything. Big mistake.

Your next step is to turn the water off at the street and
replace the coldwater valve at the water heater. Before you
do that, again turn the handle and make sure the stem is
turning. If the stem is not turning, remove the handle and
put vice grips on the stem and turn it. After you get the
valve fixed or replaced, you can turn the water on, fill the
tank, and see if the heater elements are working. If after
and hour or two you get very cold water, the elements are
burned out and you will have to drain the tank and replace
the elements. Should you do that? I'm not sure, maybe just
buy a replacement tank for $150.

Cuse wrote:




It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled
now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started
and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the
water
shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like crazy.
There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should I open
the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the
water
drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain and
valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the tank
until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:





This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way
and not
different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house
will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 %
(vertical)
right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:





"Cuse" wrote in message
...






Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it
kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all
as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some
reason.





you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id
probably
try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

Is it possible somehow when the water was drained it caused some
sediment to be stirred up and one big piece is somehow flushed into the
hot water outlet and stucked somewhere, causing the reduced pressure?

Sum

Michael Baugh wrote:

If at any time you drained the water level down below a heater,
it will likely have burned itself up, and they can be replaced.

If you replace a valve, I suggest using a ball valve instead of a gate
or other style valve.

Start at the beginning. Under each of the cover plates, there are
round things that are individual thermostats. One for each of the
heaters.

Is the line coming into the house, the one at the main water cutoff valve,
steel or copper line?


Cuse wrote in message
...


Thanks. I did not know I need to open the tap to fill the tank. Of all
the step by step water tank drain instructions never did they mention
this. I do feel the tank is now full of water, but is lacking pressure
to push the water through the line.

The shower at the most downstream end does not even drip a drop of water
when I turn it on now. It has a pressure balanced valve so I figured if
I have no hot water pressure it will not run at all. The sink faucet
has normal cold water, and no hot water. But if I go back to the
kitchen (which is the closest to the water heater) and turn that on, the
bathroom faucet will now have water out with the lever on hot. Granted,
the water is cold, but now my worries is not so much hot water, is this
exercise seems to have cause the entire house water pressure to drop or
somehow air has gotten into the system.

Cuse

George E. Cawthon wrote:



Yes you need a tap opened to fill the tank. If you open the
kitchen faucet to hot water, (or any other faucet) the tank
should fill and then water would come out the open faucet.
Since that doesn't happen, you either didn't wait long
enough, or the coldwater valve is not letting water into the
hot water tank. It sound like that has happened and by now
you have probably burned up the heating element (which
should make little or no noise).

Hopefully you closed the relief valve. You could have left
it open until water started running out of it. Btw, the
ho****er tank is 220v, so you don't need to turn off all
electricity to the whole house, just turn off the 220
breakers.

You recognized a problem with the cold water valve at the
tank and failed to do anything. Big mistake.

Your next step is to turn the water off at the street and
replace the coldwater valve at the water heater. Before you
do that, again turn the handle and make sure the stem is
turning. If the stem is not turning, remove the handle and
put vice grips on the stem and turn it. After you get the
valve fixed or replaced, you can turn the water on, fill the
tank, and see if the heater elements are working. If after
and hour or two you get very cold water, the elements are
burned out and you will have to drain the tank and replace
the elements. Should you do that? I'm not sure, maybe just
buy a replacement tank for $150.

Cuse wrote:




It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the water
shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like crazy.
There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should I open
the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the water
drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain and
valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the tank
until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:





This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way and not
different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 % (vertical)
right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:





"Cuse" wrote in message
...






Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.





you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id probably
try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

Is it possible somehow when the water was drained it caused some
sediment to be stirred up and one big piece is somehow flushed into the
hot water outlet and stucked somewhere, causing the reduced pressure?

Sum

Michael Baugh wrote:

If at any time you drained the water level down below a heater,
it will likely have burned itself up, and they can be replaced.

If you replace a valve, I suggest using a ball valve instead of a gate
or other style valve.

Start at the beginning. Under each of the cover plates, there are
round things that are individual thermostats. One for each of the
heaters.

Is the line coming into the house, the one at the main water cutoff valve,
steel or copper line?


Cuse wrote in message
...


Thanks. I did not know I need to open the tap to fill the tank. Of all
the step by step water tank drain instructions never did they mention
this. I do feel the tank is now full of water, but is lacking pressure
to push the water through the line.

The shower at the most downstream end does not even drip a drop of water
when I turn it on now. It has a pressure balanced valve so I figured if
I have no hot water pressure it will not run at all. The sink faucet
has normal cold water, and no hot water. But if I go back to the
kitchen (which is the closest to the water heater) and turn that on, the
bathroom faucet will now have water out with the lever on hot. Granted,
the water is cold, but now my worries is not so much hot water, is this
exercise seems to have cause the entire house water pressure to drop or
somehow air has gotten into the system.

Cuse

George E. Cawthon wrote:



Yes you need a tap opened to fill the tank. If you open the
kitchen faucet to hot water, (or any other faucet) the tank
should fill and then water would come out the open faucet.
Since that doesn't happen, you either didn't wait long
enough, or the coldwater valve is not letting water into the
hot water tank. It sound like that has happened and by now
you have probably burned up the heating element (which
should make little or no noise).

Hopefully you closed the relief valve. You could have left
it open until water started running out of it. Btw, the
ho****er tank is 220v, so you don't need to turn off all
electricity to the whole house, just turn off the 220
breakers.

You recognized a problem with the cold water valve at the
tank and failed to do anything. Big mistake.

Your next step is to turn the water off at the street and
replace the coldwater valve at the water heater. Before you
do that, again turn the handle and make sure the stem is
turning. If the stem is not turning, remove the handle and
put vice grips on the stem and turn it. After you get the
valve fixed or replaced, you can turn the water on, fill the
tank, and see if the heater elements are working. If after
and hour or two you get very cold water, the elements are
burned out and you will have to drain the tank and replace
the elements. Should you do that? I'm not sure, maybe just
buy a replacement tank for $150.

Cuse wrote:




It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the water
shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like crazy.
There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should I open
the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the water
drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain and
valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the tank
until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:





This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way and not
different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 % (vertical)
right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:





"Cuse" wrote in message
...






Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.





you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id probably
try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

Cuse wrote:

Is it possible somehow when the water was drained it caused some
sediment to be stirred up and one big piece is somehow flushed into the
hot water outlet and stucked somewhere, causing the reduced pressure?

Sum


It sounds like you have a gate valve and the somehow you
managed to pull the stem loose or something with the valve
mostly closed.

You keep looking for other answers, but everything you say
points to only one thing.

Repeat after me: It's the damn valve. I will replace the
valve. It will fix the problem. I will replace the valve, I
will replace the valve.

Cuse wrote:

Is it possible somehow when the water was drained it caused some
sediment to be stirred up and one big piece is somehow flushed into the
hot water outlet and stucked somewhere, causing the reduced pressure?

Sum


It sounds like you have a gate valve and the somehow you
managed to pull the stem loose or something with the valve
mostly closed.

You keep looking for other answers, but everything you say
points to only one thing.

Repeat after me: It's the damn valve. I will replace the
valve. It will fix the problem. I will replace the valve, I
will replace the valve.

The water heater serves as a settling basin for grit and debris,
but sometimes it manages to be mobilized. And sometimes
a cutoff valve, especially those dainty ones that are frequently
used under sinks and toilets, will lose a bit of itself or a chunk
of calcium, and it makes its way to the water use valve.

As a complete aside, I used a torch and solder on my plumbing
projects for over 30 years. But then, when I was redoing my
bathroom, I had Styrofoam in the walls and couldn't afford to
risk the torch. I found a 2-part epoxy product that's NFPA
approved for up to 2" pipes. I practiced with it, changed to use a bit,
and used it for all the redo, with not a single leak. Just thought I'd
mention that.

But rather than learning how to do plumbing right now with your wife
wanting to take a shower, I suggest getting a handyman or plumber
in to fix it. And I think the pressure equalizing valves really suck, so I
stay with discrete valves.

I ran separate lines to each of my fixtures, instead of having the cold
water
drop in the shower when a toilet was flushed.


Cuse wrote in message
...
Is it possible somehow when the water was drained it caused some
sediment to be stirred up and one big piece is somehow flushed into the
hot water outlet and stucked somewhere, causing the reduced pressure?

Sum

Michael Baugh wrote:

If at any time you drained the water level down below a heater,
it will likely have burned itself up, and they can be replaced.

If you replace a valve, I suggest using a ball valve instead of a gate
or other style valve.

Start at the beginning. Under each of the cover plates, there are
round things that are individual thermostats. One for each of the
heaters.

Is the line coming into the house, the one at the main water cutoff
valve,
steel or copper line?


Cuse wrote in message
...


Thanks. I did not know I need to open the tap to fill the tank. Of all
the step by step water tank drain instructions never did they mention
this. I do feel the tank is now full of water, but is lacking pressure
to push the water through the line.

The shower at the most downstream end does not even drip a drop of water
when I turn it on now. It has a pressure balanced valve so I figured if
I have no hot water pressure it will not run at all. The sink faucet
has normal cold water, and no hot water. But if I go back to the
kitchen (which is the closest to the water heater) and turn that on, the
bathroom faucet will now have water out with the lever on hot. Granted,
the water is cold, but now my worries is not so much hot water, is this
exercise seems to have cause the entire house water pressure to drop or
somehow air has gotten into the system.

Cuse

George E. Cawthon wrote:



Yes you need a tap opened to fill the tank. If you open the
kitchen faucet to hot water, (or any other faucet) the tank
should fill and then water would come out the open faucet.
Since that doesn't happen, you either didn't wait long
enough, or the coldwater valve is not letting water into the
hot water tank. It sound like that has happened and by now
you have probably burned up the heating element (which
should make little or no noise).

Hopefully you closed the relief valve. You could have left
it open until water started running out of it. Btw, the
ho****er tank is 220v, so you don't need to turn off all
electricity to the whole house, just turn off the 220
breakers.

You recognized a problem with the cold water valve at the
tank and failed to do anything. Big mistake.

Your next step is to turn the water off at the street and
replace the coldwater valve at the water heater. Before you
do that, again turn the handle and make sure the stem is
turning. If the stem is not turning, remove the handle and
put vice grips on the stem and turn it. After you get the
valve fixed or replaced, you can turn the water on, fill the
tank, and see if the heater elements are working. If after
and hour or two you get very cold water, the elements are
burned out and you will have to drain the tank and replace
the elements. Should you do that? I'm not sure, maybe just
buy a replacement tank for $150.

Cuse wrote:




It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the
water
shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like crazy.
There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should I open
the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the
water
drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain and
valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the tank
until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:





This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way and
not
different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 %
(vertical)
right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:





"Cuse" wrote in message
...






Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as
I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.





you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id
probably
try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.

The water heater serves as a settling basin for grit and debris,
but sometimes it manages to be mobilized. And sometimes
a cutoff valve, especially those dainty ones that are frequently
used under sinks and toilets, will lose a bit of itself or a chunk
of calcium, and it makes its way to the water use valve.

As a complete aside, I used a torch and solder on my plumbing
projects for over 30 years. But then, when I was redoing my
bathroom, I had Styrofoam in the walls and couldn't afford to
risk the torch. I found a 2-part epoxy product that's NFPA
approved for up to 2" pipes. I practiced with it, changed to use a bit,
and used it for all the redo, with not a single leak. Just thought I'd
mention that.

But rather than learning how to do plumbing right now with your wife
wanting to take a shower, I suggest getting a handyman or plumber
in to fix it. And I think the pressure equalizing valves really suck, so I
stay with discrete valves.

I ran separate lines to each of my fixtures, instead of having the cold
water
drop in the shower when a toilet was flushed.


Cuse wrote in message
...
Is it possible somehow when the water was drained it caused some
sediment to be stirred up and one big piece is somehow flushed into the
hot water outlet and stucked somewhere, causing the reduced pressure?

Sum

Michael Baugh wrote:

If at any time you drained the water level down below a heater,
it will likely have burned itself up, and they can be replaced.

If you replace a valve, I suggest using a ball valve instead of a gate
or other style valve.

Start at the beginning. Under each of the cover plates, there are
round things that are individual thermostats. One for each of the
heaters.

Is the line coming into the house, the one at the main water cutoff
valve,
steel or copper line?


Cuse wrote in message
...


Thanks. I did not know I need to open the tap to fill the tank. Of all
the step by step water tank drain instructions never did they mention
this. I do feel the tank is now full of water, but is lacking pressure
to push the water through the line.

The shower at the most downstream end does not even drip a drop of water
when I turn it on now. It has a pressure balanced valve so I figured if
I have no hot water pressure it will not run at all. The sink faucet
has normal cold water, and no hot water. But if I go back to the
kitchen (which is the closest to the water heater) and turn that on, the
bathroom faucet will now have water out with the lever on hot. Granted,
the water is cold, but now my worries is not so much hot water, is this
exercise seems to have cause the entire house water pressure to drop or
somehow air has gotten into the system.

Cuse

George E. Cawthon wrote:



Yes you need a tap opened to fill the tank. If you open the
kitchen faucet to hot water, (or any other faucet) the tank
should fill and then water would come out the open faucet.
Since that doesn't happen, you either didn't wait long
enough, or the coldwater valve is not letting water into the
hot water tank. It sound like that has happened and by now
you have probably burned up the heating element (which
should make little or no noise).

Hopefully you closed the relief valve. You could have left
it open until water started running out of it. Btw, the
ho****er tank is 220v, so you don't need to turn off all
electricity to the whole house, just turn off the 220
breakers.

You recognized a problem with the cold water valve at the
tank and failed to do anything. Big mistake.

Your next step is to turn the water off at the street and
replace the coldwater valve at the water heater. Before you
do that, again turn the handle and make sure the stem is
turning. If the stem is not turning, remove the handle and
put vice grips on the stem and turn it. After you get the
valve fixed or replaced, you can turn the water on, fill the
tank, and see if the heater elements are working. If after
and hour or two you get very cold water, the elements are
burned out and you will have to drain the tank and replace
the elements. Should you do that? I'm not sure, maybe just
buy a replacement tank for $150.

Cuse wrote:




It seems keeping the kitchen faucet running I got the tank filled now.
However I am not sure if it is partially filled or fully filled. I
took a chance after the filling sound stopped. The heater started and
the sound seems OK, sounds like a whirlpool being turned on.

After 10 minutes I still have my kitchen faucet running, then the
water
shot out with lower volume, higher volume, fluctuating like crazy.
There must be air and/or pressure imbalance somewhere. Should I open
the pressure relief valve on top of the tank?

What really happened?

When I drained the water I had the relief valve opened. so as the
water
drained is sucked air into the tank? and when I closed the drain and
valve the air in the tank prevented the water from entering the tank
until I turn the kitchen faucet on to draw air out? Is this right?

Confused and still not sure I will get hot water tonight.

Cuse

Cuse wrote:





This is unlikely. The resistance is about the same either way and
not
different from when I first touched it.

I did noticed something strange. If I turn on the water in my
kitchen, I hear activity inside the tank that sounds like refilling.
If I turned off the water, it stops. Not all faucet in my house will
cause this, but some of them. Why?

Some sort of pressure problem created by the draining?

I did pulled the tempearture pressure relief valve during the
draining. Pulling means pushing that lever until it is 90 %
(vertical)
right?

Cuse

SoCalMike wrote:





"Cuse" wrote in message
...






Problem...

I went to turn off the cold water and as I turned the valve it kept
turning. It does not seem to be tightening or loosening at all as
I
turned the valve either way. I think it is broken for some reason.





you probably tightened it shut, then stripped the handle. id
probably
try to
put some vicegrips on the stem, and reopen the valve.