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Default tying off a ring outlet

Hi again all,

Another quick electrical wiring question. I'm about to change the wiring
on my boiler, so that the existing mains power source (which is on my
kitchen's ring) is unused and hanging in the breeze. I am putting a
blanking plate over where the cable to the boiler came from.

Obviously it's not going to be acceptable to leave the wires just lying
there. What is the correct way to isolate the wires so that they are not
touching anything, is it ok to use a screw terminal block ?
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Geronimo W. Christ Esq wrote:

is it ok to use a screw terminal block ?


Yes, as long as it's a 30A one, and it's protected behind the blank face
plate so it still remains accessible in future.
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In article ,
Geronimo W. Christ Esq wrote:
Another quick electrical wiring question. I'm about to change the wiring
on my boiler, so that the existing mains power source (which is on my
kitchen's ring) is unused and hanging in the breeze. I am putting a
blanking plate over where the cable to the boiler came from.


Obviously it's not going to be acceptable to leave the wires just lying
there. What is the correct way to isolate the wires so that they are not
touching anything, is it ok to use a screw terminal block ?


It will require different treatment if part of the ring or now an unused
spur off it. If a spur, I'd disconnect at source. If the ring itself, use
30 amp connector blocks and insulate well. They must remain accessible via
a cover, etc.

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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On Fri, 10 Nov 2006 18:13:17 UTC, Andy Burns
wrote:

Geronimo W. Christ Esq wrote:

is it ok to use a screw terminal block ?


Yes, as long as it's a 30A one, and it's protected behind the blank face
plate so it still remains accessible in future.


Why a 30A one? Surelt it's best to use one that suits the size of the
cable???
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Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

It will require different treatment if part of the ring or now an unused
spur off it. If a spur, I'd disconnect at source. If the ring itself, use
30 amp connector blocks and insulate well. They must remain accessible via
a cover, etc.


Thankyou Dave, and Andy.

Looking at it, I'm pretty sure it is a spur (there's only one cable so I
guess it's not a ring) but I don't want to remove it as it may be useful
in the future. I'll put a connector block on it and wrap it with tape,
and stick a blank plate on.

Thanks again.




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On Fri, 10 Nov 2006 21:26:30 UTC, "Geronimo W. Christ Esq"
wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

It will require different treatment if part of the ring or now an unused
spur off it. If a spur, I'd disconnect at source. If the ring itself, use
30 amp connector blocks and insulate well. They must remain accessible via
a cover, etc.


Thankyou Dave, and Andy.

Looking at it, I'm pretty sure it is a spur (there's only one cable so I
guess it's not a ring) but I don't want to remove it as it may be useful
in the future. I'll put a connector block on it and wrap it with tape,
and stick a blank plate on.


I assumed it was a spur, hence my comment about using a smaller
connector block. 15A would be OK, and will match the wire size better.

I'd forget the tape; it's inside a box that's screwed shut, same as any
electrical accessory. It'll probably only go yucky and sticky.

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Default tying off a ring outlet

Bob Eager wrote:

I assumed it was a spur, hence my comment about using a smaller
connector block. 15A would be OK, and will match the wire size better.

I'd forget the tape; it's inside a box that's screwed shut, same as any
electrical accessory. It'll probably only go yucky and sticky.


Thanks for that, Bob.

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In article ,
Geronimo W. Christ Esq wrote:
Looking at it, I'm pretty sure it is a spur (there's only one cable so I
guess it's not a ring) but I don't want to remove it as it may be useful
in the future. I'll put a connector block on it and wrap it with tape,
and stick a blank plate on.


No need to remove it, but you could still disconnect where it's spurred
off. Having live circuits going nowhere is bad practice, IMHO.

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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Bob Eager wrote:

Why a 30A one?


Because the title said "ring outlet" not "spur outlet"

Surely it's best to use one that suits the size of the
cable?


Which would be 2.5 t+e for a ring, and thereby require 30A block, no?
chances are the spur would still be in 2.5 t+e anyway ...
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On Sun, 12 Nov 2006 08:46:44 UTC, Andy Burns
wrote:

Bob Eager wrote:

Why a 30A one?


Because the title said "ring outlet" not "spur outlet"

Surely it's best to use one that suits the size of the
cable?


Which would be 2.5 t+e for a ring, and thereby require 30A block, no?
chances are the spur would still be in 2.5 t+e anyway ...


Yes, but 30A is a bit big for a single wire of that size. Better grip
with 15A.
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On 12 Nov 2006 13:53:34 GMT someone who may be "Bob Eager"
wrote this:-

Which would be 2.5 t+e for a ring, and thereby require 30A block, no?
chances are the spur would still be in 2.5 t+e anyway ...


Yes, but 30A is a bit big for a single wire of that size.


One might think so, if not aware of how to use them.

Better grip with 15A.


Why? Provided the connector is used properly the grip should be much
the same in either case.

However, if this is a spur disconnecting it at the other end would
be advisable. Alternatively, a switched fused connection unit ready
for some other gadget could be put on the spur.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
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http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54
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On Sun, 12 Nov 2006 14:08:45 UTC, David Hansen
wrote:

On 12 Nov 2006 13:53:34 GMT someone who may be "Bob Eager"
wrote this:-

Which would be 2.5 t+e for a ring, and thereby require 30A block, no?
chances are the spur would still be in 2.5 t+e anyway ...


Yes, but 30A is a bit big for a single wire of that size.


One might think so, if not aware of how to use them.


Excellent, a personal attack.

Better grip with 15A.


Why? Provided the connector is used properly the grip should be much
the same in either case.


Too easy for the wire to be incorrectly placed, to one side.

However, if this is a spur disconnecting it at the other end would
be advisable. Alternatively, a switched fused connection unit ready
for some other gadget could be put on the spur.


That's already been discussed and it seemed pointless to rehearse it
again. To some extent I agree, although opening up the point where the
spur is taken off might be an unnecessary disturbance.
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On 12 Nov 2006 14:49:01 GMT someone who may be "Bob Eager"
wrote this:-

One might think so, if not aware of how to use them.


Excellent, a personal attack.


Nice try, but incorrect. It was a general point, a personal attack
would have been... personal, "you don't know how to use one", is an
example.

Why? Provided the connector is used properly the grip should be much
the same in either case.


Too easy for the wire to be incorrectly placed, to one side.


That goes back to being aware of how to use them.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54
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On Sun, 12 Nov 2006 15:49:10 UTC, David Hansen
wrote:

On 12 Nov 2006 14:49:01 GMT someone who may be "Bob Eager"
wrote this:-

One might think so, if not aware of how to use them.


Excellent, a personal attack.


Nice try, but incorrect. It was a general point, a personal attack
would have been... personal, "you don't know how to use one", is an
example.


MRD.

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In article ,
David Hansen wrote:
Yes, but 30A is a bit big for a single wire of that size.


One might think so, if not aware of how to use them.


Better grip with 15A.


Why? Provided the connector is used properly the grip should be much
the same in either case.


I've always found it curious that a 15 amp connector strip has a hole size
approximately the same as a socket terminal, while a 30 amp type is much
larger.

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


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David Hansen wrote:

However, if this is a spur disconnecting it at the other end would
be advisable. Alternatively, a switched fused connection unit ready
for some other gadget could be put on the spur.


In the end this is actually what I did. I removed the cable (which was
twin C+E) that was being "switched" completely. The mains supply to the
spur is still connected to the switched FCU, with the fuse removed for
paranoia's sake.

Thanks for your help, everyone.
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