Hi all,

We got a new front door which is about a yard further forward than the
old one.

On the basis of the story that I heard about the Japanese leaving
their Dyson's out in the living room as an art work, I tried the same
line with leaving the consumer unit where it is now.

Didn't work. I'm not allowed out till I move it. (Nephew: "What did
you do now?)

Challenge/problem?



Moving it to new location, down and over means down stairs cables too
long, upstairs too short.


Too long, no probs: Snip, snip and Bob's your aunty.


Upstairs ones, I'll have to cross cables over each other in order to
reconnect to consumer unit.

Is this regulation, allowed, frowned on, or what?


Francis

On 2006-10-21 11:39:16 +0100, said:

Hi all,

We got a new front door which is about a yard further forward than the
old one.

On the basis of the story that I heard about the Japanese leaving
their Dyson's out in the living room as an art work, I tried the same
line with leaving the consumer unit where it is now.
Didn't work. I'm not allowed out till I move it. (Nephew: "What did
you do now?)

Challenge/problem?



Moving it to new location, down and over means down stairs cables too
long, upstairs too short.


Too long, no probs: Snip, snip and Bob's your aunty.


Upstairs ones, I'll have to cross cables over each other in order to
reconnect to consumer unit.

Is this regulation, allowed, frowned on, or what?


Francis

Why do you need to cross the cables over?

Are the cables for upstairs long enough or will you need to join them?
If so, then doing so with crimped joints unless you want to have a lot
of junction boxes on show would be a good way. Those would need to be
additionally insulated if outside the consumer unit.

Otherwise if the cables are long enough except for entering the
consumer unit at the wrong end (if that's what you meant), then it may
be possible with some consumer units to swap around all the MCBs and
incoming main switch to effectively a mirror of what you have now.

I guess it doesn't need to be said that if this is contemplated, the
main fuses at the meter should be pulled.

On Sat, 21 Oct 2006 11:49:09 +0100, Andy Hall
wrote:

On 2006-10-21 11:39:16 +0100, said:

Hi all,

We got a new front door which is about a yard further forward than the
old one.

On the basis of the story that I heard about the Japanese leaving
their Dyson's out in the living room as an art work, I tried the same
line with leaving the consumer unit where it is now.
Didn't work. I'm not allowed out till I move it. (Nephew: "What did
you do now?)

Challenge/problem?



Moving it to new location, down and over means down stairs cables too
long, upstairs too short.


Too long, no probs: Snip, snip and Bob's your aunty.


Upstairs ones, I'll have to cross cables over each other in order to
reconnect to consumer unit.

Is this regulation, allowed, frowned on, or what?


Francis

Why do you need to cross the cables over?

Are the cables for upstairs long enough or will you need to join them?
If so, then doing so with crimped joints unless you want to have a lot
of junction boxes on show would be a good way. Those would need to be
additionally insulated if outside the consumer unit.

Otherwise if the cables are long enough except for entering the
consumer unit at the wrong end (if that's what you meant), then it may
be possible with some consumer units to swap around all the MCBs and
incoming main switch to effectively a mirror of what you have now.

I guess it doesn't need to be said that if this is contemplated, the
main fuses at the meter should be pulled.





The whole house is coming up to it's re-wiring time, but it will be
next year before that project comes up.

Downstairs circuits are fine. ("Good, we'll be able to have hot turkey
for Christmas")


Some of the upstairs cables have enough lenght to reach board. Some
too short. I had thought of the mirror image thingy.

I'll try some art work.


I II
I II
I II
I II
L______II_____________
II I
II I
II I
II I
II I
______________________
I I
I CU I
----------------------------------

That's what I mean by cables crossing


I have junction boxes, connector blocks and those chocbox thingys
ready if I need to use them.

Apparently I'm going to build a nice little cupboard to house the
electrics.

If I go crimped (I'm sure there's a joke there?!) what tools do I
need? And what is acceptable insulation. Tape?

Also, I learned that if we put in a second electric shower I need some
sort of switch so two can't be on at the same time. Any ideas on what
they are called.

On 2006-10-21 12:43:17 +0100, said:

On Sat, 21 Oct 2006 11:49:09 +0100, Andy Hall
wrote:

On 2006-10-21 11:39:16 +0100, said:

Hi all,

We got a new front door which is about a yard further forward than the
old one.

On the basis of the story that I heard about the Japanese leaving
their Dyson's out in the living room as an art work, I tried the same
line with leaving the consumer unit where it is now.
Didn't work. I'm not allowed out till I move it. (Nephew: "What did
you do now?)

Challenge/problem?



Moving it to new location, down and over means down stairs cables too
long, upstairs too short.


Too long, no probs: Snip, snip and Bob's your aunty.


Upstairs ones, I'll have to cross cables over each other in order to
reconnect to consumer unit.

Is this regulation, allowed, frowned on, or what?


Francis

Why do you need to cross the cables over?

Are the cables for upstairs long enough or will you need to join them?
If so, then doing so with crimped joints unless you want to have a lot
of junction boxes on show would be a good way. Those would need to be
additionally insulated if outside the consumer unit.

Otherwise if the cables are long enough except for entering the
consumer unit at the wrong end (if that's what you meant), then it may
be possible with some consumer units to swap around all the MCBs and
incoming main switch to effectively a mirror of what you have now.

I guess it doesn't need to be said that if this is contemplated, the
main fuses at the meter should be pulled.





The whole house is coming up to it's re-wiring time, but it will be
next year before that project comes up.

Downstairs circuits are fine. ("Good, we'll be able to have hot turkey
for Christmas")


Some of the upstairs cables have enough lenght to reach board. Some
too short. I had thought of the mirror image thingy.

I'll try some art work.


I II
I II
I II
I II
L______II_____________
II I
II I
II I
II I
II I
______________________
I I
I CU I
----------------------------------

That's what I mean by cables crossing

I see. Assuming that the cables are all visible, I am not aware of
any issue provided that a neat job is made and they are properly
supported.





I have junction boxes, connector blocks and those chocbox thingys
ready if I need to use them.

Apparently I'm going to build a nice little cupboard to house the
electrics.

If it's all going into a cupboard the lack of neatness of using
junction boxes shouldn't be a big issue.

If you use chocolate block connectors, they need to go inside some kind
of enclosure and be adequately rated. The other issue with any of
these methods is to make sure that the wires, after being extended, end
up on the correct MCBs. Having connections for ring final circuits
ending up on more than one because they get mixed up is definitely to
be avoided. It would be a very good idea to get a multimeter and to
at least do continuity tests on ring circuits to make sure that that
hasn't happened.




If I go crimped (I'm sure there's a joke there?!) what tools do I
need? And what is acceptable insulation. Tape?

You need to have a proper crimping tool with ratchet mechanism and the
correct type of crimps. Tape is not a suitable insulating material.
Something like heatshrink sleeve or in this case having all of the
crimps in an enclosure would be ways to do it.


http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/DVDHCR15.html

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...ols/index.html

(the

butt connectors).





Also, I learned that if we put in a second electric shower I need some
sort of switch so two can't be on at the same time. Any ideas on what
they are called.

Do you not have any other means of doing a shower? Electric showers
aren't that great.

I haven't come across change over switches for the application you
describe. A better way would be to get the supply upgraded if you
only have an electric shower as an option.

On Sat, 21 Oct 2006 13:03:03 +0100, Andy Hall
wrote:


Snipped to


I II
I II
I II
I II
L______II_____________
II I
II I
II I
II I
II I
______________________
I I
I CU I
----------------------------------

That's what I mean by cables crossing

I see. Assuming that the cables are all visible, I am not aware of
any issue provided that a neat job is made and they are properly
supported.





I have junction boxes, connector blocks and those chocbox thingys
ready if I need to use them.

Apparently I'm going to build a nice little cupboard to house the
electrics.

If it's all going into a cupboard the lack of neatness of using
junction boxes shouldn't be a big issue.

If you use chocolate block connectors, they need to go inside some kind
of enclosure and be adequately rated. The other issue with any of
these methods is to make sure that the wires, after being extended, end
up on the correct MCBs. Having connections for ring final circuits
ending up on more than one because they get mixed up is definitely to
be avoided. It would be a very good idea to get a multimeter and to
at least do continuity tests on ring circuits to make sure that that
hasn't happened.




If I go crimped (I'm sure there's a joke there?!) what tools do I
need? And what is acceptable insulation. Tape?

You need to have a proper crimping tool with ratchet mechanism and the
correct type of crimps. Tape is not a suitable insulating material.
Something like heatshrink sleeve or in this case having all of the
crimps in an enclosure would be ways to do it.


http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/DVDHCR15.html

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...ols/index.html

(the

butt connectors).





Also, I learned that if we put in a second electric shower I need some
sort of switch so two can't be on at the same time. Any ideas on what
they are called.

Do you not have any other means of doing a shower? Electric showers
aren't that great.

I haven't come across change over switches for the application you
describe. A better way would be to get the supply upgraded if you
only have an electric shower as an option.



Thanks for all that, Andy.

I have a multi meter and checked the ring ciruits.

I'm in Ireland but have used TLC before, less expensive even adding
shipping than buying here. And sometimes quicker than getting to a
store. Go figure!

I have cable clips, and little plastic boxes which the connectors go
into (marked on the little plastic box "CHOC BOX"). Rating on them is
another thing. Tiny writing, I have to use a magnifying glass to read
them!

Having been in America this Summer, the Showers there have us spoilt.
I'm not sure what we gonna do.


How do the get the wiring so neat in all those pictures on websites
like Hager, ABB, Wylex etc!!!



Francis

On 2006-10-21 13:45:45 +0100, said:



Thanks for all that, Andy.

I have a multi meter and checked the ring ciruits.

I'm in Ireland but have used TLC before, less expensive even adding
shipping than buying here. And sometimes quicker than getting to a
store. Go figure!

I have cable clips, and little plastic boxes which the connectors go
into (marked on the little plastic box "CHOC BOX"). Rating on them is
another thing. Tiny writing, I have to use a magnifying glass to read
them!

You can also tell by size.


Having been in America this Summer, the Showers there have us spoilt.
I'm not sure what we gonna do.

If that's the case, you are going to be very disappointed with electric
showers - opposite end of the spectrum




How do the get the wiring so neat in all those pictures on websites
like Hager, ABB, Wylex etc!!!



Francis

wrote:
On Sat, 21 Oct 2006 11:49:09 +0100, Andy Hall
wrote:
On 2006-10-21 11:39:16 +0100, said:

line with leaving the consumer unit where it is now.
Didn't work. I'm not allowed out till I move it. (Nephew: "What did
you do now?)

Challenge/problem?

Youre not thinking laterally here. Buy a handmade knife switch, medium
size, put thick black cloth covered tails on it, mount it by the CU,
push the tails behind something, and declare youre not going anywhere
near the bloody thing.


If I go crimped (I'm sure there's a joke there?!) what tools do I
need? And what is acceptable insulation. Tape?

I think you'd best leave the whole thing well alone.


NT

On Sat, 21 Oct 2006 23:19:40 +0100, Owain
wrote:

wrote:
Challenge/problem?

Could be a significant problem if the new length of your meter tails is
longer than permitted by the local electricity company - in which case
yuo will have to install a switch-fuse by the meter and then run new tails.

If in England and Wales, Part P will apply.

Owain


The meter tails are no problem. they are same length for new location
of CU. It's the upstairs circuits that are problem.

In Ireland, so similar regs. Don't have Rocky Presscott ones (Yet!).

How come the Scots escaped Part P?


Francis

On 21 Oct 2006 17:45:21 -0700, wrote:

wrote:
On Sat, 21 Oct 2006 11:49:09 +0100, Andy Hall
wrote:
On 2006-10-21 11:39:16 +0100, said:

line with leaving the consumer unit where it is now.
Didn't work. I'm not allowed out till I move it. (Nephew: "What did
you do now?)

Challenge/problem?

Youre not thinking laterally here. Buy a handmade knife switch, medium
size, put thick black cloth covered tails on it, mount it by the CU,
push the tails behind something, and declare youre not going anywhere
near the bloody thing.


If I go crimped (I'm sure there's a joke there?!) what tools do I
need? And what is acceptable insulation. Tape?

I think you'd best leave the whole thing well alone.


NT




I've never been crimped

Andy Hall mentioned insulating the crimps.


Why is it called "INSULATING" tape?!


I could wire in some LEDs to cloth tails and say look, "Sparks"


Francis

In article ,
Owain writes:
wrote:
How come the Scots escaped Part P?

Because building regulations is a devolved matter.

In Scotland, that means devolved to a quango.

and they didn't escape -- actually they got theirs first (called
Part something-else as the letters are out of sync). However,
theirs was much more reasonable, i.e. without all the extra
red tape and expense.

--
Andrew Gabriel

On 22 Oct 2006 13:12:12 GMT, (Andrew
Gabriel) wrote:

In article ,
Owain writes:
wrote:
How come the Scots escaped Part P?

Because building regulations is a devolved matter.

In Scotland, that means devolved to a quango.

and they didn't escape -- actually they got theirs first (called
Part something-else as the letters are out of sync). However,
theirs was much more reasonable, i.e. without all the extra
red tape and expense.


To paraphrase Captain Jack Sparrow:

"That would be the Scots"

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Owain writes:
wrote:
How come the Scots escaped Part P?
Because building regulations is a devolved matter.

In Scotland, that means devolved to a quango.

and they didn't escape -- actually they got theirs first (called
Part something-else as the letters are out of sync). However,
theirs was much more reasonable, i.e. without all the extra
red tape and expense.

Surely that's brown tape now?