Hi,

I have an external corner to cut for some skirting. The angle I have
found by the "drawing two lines on the floor" method. The angle is 95
degrees.

But my mitre saw and hand mitre only go to 45 degrees. I need an angle
of 47.5 degrees.

So without going out and buying a more expensive saw what is the best
way for cutting at angles greater than 90 degrees.


Thanks,

Graham

Graham Jones wrote:
Hi,

I have an external corner to cut for some skirting. The angle I have
found by the "drawing two lines on the floor" method. The angle is 95
degrees.

But my mitre saw and hand mitre only go to 45 degrees. I need an angle
of 47.5 degrees.

So without going out and buying a more expensive saw what is the best
way for cutting at angles greater than 90 degrees.

I'd use an hand saw but you could pack it out and use filler to make
the angle right.

Weatherlawyer wrote:
Graham Jones wrote:
Hi,

I have an external corner to cut for some skirting. The angle I have
found by the "drawing two lines on the floor" method. The angle is 95
degrees.

But my mitre saw and hand mitre only go to 45 degrees. I need an angle
of 47.5 degrees.

So without going out and buying a more expensive saw what is the best
way for cutting at angles greater than 90 degrees.

I'd use an hand saw but you could pack it out and use filler to make
the angle right.


I am trying to get away from filler. I have, for the first time, butt
and scribed the internal mitres and it looks so much better. Being in a
hallway all the angles will be visible. I can't hide them behind a
bed/wardrobe etc !!

Graham

Graham Jones wrote:
Hi,

I have an external corner to cut for some skirting. The angle I have
found by the "drawing two lines on the floor" method. The angle is 95
degrees.

But my mitre saw and hand mitre only go to 45 degrees. I need an angle
of 47.5 degrees.

So without going out and buying a more expensive saw what is the best
way for cutting at angles greater than 90 degrees.


Thanks,

Graham

Graham,

As you say... without buying another saw!
The best way would be to make your own mitre block. I assume you have a
protractor or a carpenters sliding bevel
(http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Main/P...ductID=35754)?

Mark your angle on a spare bit of skirting or suitable plank off-cut
(needs to be as high as or higher than the skirting you are cutting.
Mark all the way round and cut through carefully with a nice sharp
tenon saw. Then fix the two halves you are left with onto a length of
timber, so they are in an upright position and the two faces of the cut
you made are apart slightly more than the width of the blade you will
be using to cut the mitre. A bit of a pain, I know, but you then have a
template that will allow you to do some practice runs. If the resulting
angle is slightly undercut, you can always use a sharp block-plane to
finely hone the cheeks of the angled cut. Remember, as long as the
outer corners meet presicely the rest will be hidden.

HTH
deano.

deano wrote:
Graham Jones wrote:
Hi,

I have an external corner to cut for some skirting. The angle I have
found by the "drawing two lines on the floor" method. The angle is 95
degrees.

But my mitre saw and hand mitre only go to 45 degrees. I need an angle
of 47.5 degrees.

So without going out and buying a more expensive saw what is the best
way for cutting at angles greater than 90 degrees.


Thanks,

Graham

Graham,

As you say... without buying another saw!
The best way would be to make your own mitre block. I assume you have a
protractor or a carpenters sliding bevel
(http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Main/P...ductID=35754)?

Mark your angle on a spare bit of skirting or suitable plank off-cut
(needs to be as high as or higher than the skirting you are cutting.
Mark all the way round and cut through carefully with a nice sharp
tenon saw. Then fix the two halves you are left with onto a length of
timber, so they are in an upright position and the two faces of the cut
you made are apart slightly more than the width of the blade you will
be using to cut the mitre. A bit of a pain, I know, but you then have a
template that will allow you to do some practice runs. If the resulting
angle is slightly undercut, you can always use a sharp block-plane to
finely hone the cheeks of the angled cut. Remember, as long as the
outer corners meet presicely the rest will be hidden.

HTH
deano.


thanks deano, I might give that a go this weekend.

deano wrote:
Remember, as long as the outer corners meet presicely the rest will be hidden.

HTH
deano.

Alternatively, make the angle a true 90° for this and all other such
external corners, and allow the skirting to sit away from the wall as a
result. You can then fill in behind the gaps this leaves with
decorators caulk. Once painted the same colour as your walls, the
transition between wall and skirting will be invisible and your mitred
corners (which stand out the most if Torus or Ogee and if coloured in
great contrast to your walls) will look beautiful. Remember, background
decor receeds and detail stands out!

HTAH
deano.

In article ,
Graham Jones writes:
Hi,

I have an external corner to cut for some skirting. The angle I have
found by the "drawing two lines on the floor" method. The angle is 95
degrees.

But my mitre saw and hand mitre only go to 45 degrees. I need an angle
of 47.5 degrees.

So without going out and buying a more expensive saw what is the best
way for cutting at angles greater than 90 degrees.

I usually cut at 45 degrees and then fine tune with a belt sander.
Cut slightly longer than you need to allow for losing some on the
sander. In practice, no corners ever seem to be exactly 90 degrees
anyway.

--
Andrew Gabriel

Graham Jones wrote:

But my mitre saw and hand mitre only go to 45 degrees. I need an angle
of 47.5 degrees.

Why not put a small piece of timber near the sawblade, between the
skirting and the guide at the back, to get the right angle. Use a clamp
to hold the skirting firmly against the guide while cutting.

Graham Jones wrote:
Hi,

I have an external corner to cut for some skirting. The angle I have
found by the "drawing two lines on the floor" method. The angle is 95
degrees.

But my mitre saw and hand mitre only go to 45 degrees. I need an angle
of 47.5 degrees.

So without going out and buying a more expensive saw what is the best
way for cutting at angles greater than 90 degrees.


Thanks,

Graham

Are you using this type of saw?
http://tinyurl.co.uk/kidz

If so it can give you that angle of 47.5 if you think about it ;-) ie you
do the reverse of cutting from the normal way.
Depending which way the cut is going to be,left or right?
You turn the skirting upside down and make the cut from the back of the
saw.
Bit more tricky in cutting it this way but hey it can be done on that type
of saw.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
Graham Jones wrote:
Hi,

I have an external corner to cut for some skirting. The angle I have
found by the "drawing two lines on the floor" method. The angle is 95
degrees.

But my mitre saw and hand mitre only go to 45 degrees. I need an angle
of 47.5 degrees.

So without going out and buying a more expensive saw what is the best
way for cutting at angles greater than 90 degrees.


Thanks,

Graham

Are you using this type of saw?
http://tinyurl.co.uk/kidz

If so it can give you that angle of 47.5 if you think about it ;-) ie you
do the reverse of cutting from the normal way.
Depending which way the cut is going to be,left or right?
You turn the skirting upside down and make the cut from the back of the
saw.
Bit more tricky in cutting it this way but hey it can be done on that type
of saw.

Now I'm confused. Surely a mitre saw, drop saw etc will cut an angle
from anywhere between 45 degrees and 135 degrees. So 47.5 is a piece of
cake.
My suggestion was for cutting an angle of less than 45 degrees, which
would be hard without my suggestion of using a spacer (away from the
blade) and a clamp.

Matty F wrote:
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
Graham Jones wrote:
Hi,

I have an external corner to cut for some skirting. The angle I have
found by the "drawing two lines on the floor" method. The angle is
95 degrees.

But my mitre saw and hand mitre only go to 45 degrees. I need an
angle of 47.5 degrees.

So without going out and buying a more expensive saw what is the
best way for cutting at angles greater than 90 degrees.


Thanks,

Graham

Are you using this type of saw?
http://tinyurl.co.uk/kidz

If so it can give you that angle of 47.5 if you think about it ;-)
ie you do the reverse of cutting from the normal way.
Depending which way the cut is going to be,left or right?
You turn the skirting upside down and make the cut from the back of
the saw.
Bit more tricky in cutting it this way but hey it can be done on
that type of saw.

Now I'm confused. Surely a mitre saw, drop saw etc will cut an angle
from anywhere between 45 degrees and 135 degrees. So 47.5 is a piece
of cake.
My suggestion was for cutting an angle of less than 45 degrees, which
would be hard without my suggestion of using a spacer (away from the
blade) and a clamp.

A blond moment on my part. :-) too many sleepless nights lately,however
putting an 1/4" piece of wood at the back of skirting and saw at max (45
degrees) should get you that 2.5 degrees more.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

"Graham Jones" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have an external corner to cut for some skirting. The angle I have found
by the "drawing two lines on the floor" method. The angle is 95 degrees.

But my mitre saw and hand mitre only go to 45 degrees. I need an angle of
47.5 degrees.

So without going out and buying a more expensive saw what is the best way
for cutting at angles greater than 90 degrees.


Thanks,

Graham

It would work if you set the saw to 42½° and turn the timber over, pretend
the back side is the face. (The opposite angle to 95° being 85°) I'm not
sure which way your saw operates, so this may not be a problem, but watch
the blade doesn't pull out the grain on the face side. A fine toothed blade
would be best.

Peter


--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Peter Taylor wrote:

It would work if you set the saw to 42½° and turn the timber over, pretend
the back side is the face. (The opposite angle to 95° being 85°) I'm not
sure which way your saw operates, so this may not be a problem, but watch
the blade doesn't pull out the grain on the face side. A fine toothed blade
would be best.

I don't see why the timber needs to be turned over. All the mitre saws
and drop saws that I have seen, including the one at the URL below,
allow the blade to swing over a 90° angle from 45° to 135°, which
includes the 47½° that the OP wanted. So I don't see what the problem
is, assuming the 47½° angle is measured on the skirting after it is
cut. Maybe I'm confused again, but I don't think so

http://tinyurl.co.uk/kidz

Matty F wrote:
Peter Taylor wrote:

It would work if you set the saw to 42½° and turn the timber over,
pretend the back side is the face. (The opposite angle to 95° being
85°) I'm not sure which way your saw operates, so this may not be a
problem, but watch the blade doesn't pull out the grain on the face
side. A fine toothed blade would be best.

I don't see why the timber needs to be turned over. All the mitre saws
and drop saws that I have seen, including the one at the URL below,
allow the blade to swing over a 90° angle from 45° to 135°, which
includes the 47½° that the OP wanted. So I don't see what the problem
is, assuming the 47½° angle is measured on the skirting after it is
cut. Maybe I'm confused again, but I don't think so

http://tinyurl.co.uk/kidz

This type of saw is restricted when it comes to the butt end of the travel
ie 45 degrees,however you can get at least the 47 if you where to hold the
lever handle in the open position but its an hard thing to do as well as
cut at the same time.

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:

This type of saw is restricted when it comes to the butt end of the travel
ie 45 degrees,however you can get at least the 47 if you where to hold the
lever handle in the open position but its an hard thing to do as well as
cut at the same time.

Surely the angle being measured is that of the piece of timber once it
is cut.
90° would be the timber cut at a right angle.
It is very easy to cut any angle from 45° up to 135°, and 47° is
within that.
However 42° would be hard to cut. But that is not the OP's problem.

Graham Jones wrote:
Hi,

I have an external corner to cut for some skirting. The angle I have
found by the "drawing two lines on the floor" method. The angle is 95
degrees.

But my mitre saw and hand mitre only go to 45 degrees. I need an angle
of 47.5 degrees.

So without going out and buying a more expensive saw what is the best
way for cutting at angles greater than 90 degrees.


Thanks,

Graham

Put a scrap of hardboard or something behind the skirting at the end
you're cutting?
That said, it's always better to impose squareness and straightness on
wonky rooms and back fill. As Deano says, it's the detail you see

"Matty F" wrote in message
oups.com...
Peter Taylor wrote:

It would work if you set the saw to 42½° and turn the timber over,
pretend
the back side is the face. (The opposite angle to 95° being 85°) I'm not
sure which way your saw operates, so this may not be a problem, but watch
the blade doesn't pull out the grain on the face side. A fine toothed
blade
would be best.

I don't see why the timber needs to be turned over. All the mitre saws
and drop saws that I have seen, including the one at the URL below,
allow the blade to swing over a 90° angle from 45° to 135°, which
includes the 47½° that the OP wanted. So I don't see what the problem
is, assuming the 47½° angle is measured on the skirting after it is
cut. Maybe I'm confused again, but I don't think so

http://tinyurl.co.uk/kidz


Matt, yes your'e right. We're saying the same thing except that I was
thinking about a hand held electric circular saw, where the workpiece is
laid flat and the blade is tilted over in the vertical plane. With your
hand mitre saw, the workpice is held verically on edge and the blade is
angled in the horizontal plane.

The OP doesn't give the depth of his skirting, but using an electric saw
there's no limit. Does the hand mitre saw in your picture have the capacity
to hold a 6" or deeper skirting vertically on edge?

Peter


--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Peter Taylor wrote:
"Matty F" wrote in message
oups.com...

I don't see why the timber needs to be turned over. All the mitre saws
and drop saws that I have seen, including the one at the URL below,
allow the blade to swing over a 90° angle from 45° to 135°, which
includes the 47½° that the OP wanted. So I don't see what the problem
is, assuming the 47½° angle is measured on the skirting after it is
cut. Maybe I'm confused again, but I don't think so

http://tinyurl.co.uk/kidz


Matt, yes your'e right. We're saying the same thing except that I was
thinking about a hand held electric circular saw, where the workpiece is
laid flat and the blade is tilted over in the vertical plane. With your
hand mitre saw, the workpice is held verically on edge and the blade is
angled in the horizontal plane.

The OP doesn't give the depth of his skirting, but using an electric saw
there's no limit. Does the hand mitre saw in your picture have the capacity
to hold a 6" or deeper skirting vertically on edge?

That picture was mentioned by somebody else.
I have a drop saw that can cut only a 4" skirting, and a bench saw that
can cut skirting several feet high. But this is all beside the point.
Most saws can easily cut an angle down to 45° , so the desired 47½°
is also easy.

In my rough picture here, it's very hard to cut less than 45°, e.g.
along the red line and very easy to cut along the green line. Remember
that the OP said that his wall had a 95° angle.

http://i3.tinypic.com/3166b6b.jpg

Matty F wrote:
Peter Taylor wrote:
"Matty F" wrote in message
oups.com...

I don't see why the timber needs to be turned over. All the mitre saws
and drop saws that I have seen, including the one at the URL below,
allow the blade to swing over a 90° angle from 45° to 135°, which
includes the 47½° that the OP wanted. So I don't see what the problem
is, assuming the 47½° angle is measured on the skirting after it is
cut. Maybe I'm confused again, but I don't think so
http://tinyurl.co.uk/kidz

Matt, yes your'e right. We're saying the same thing except that I was
thinking about a hand held electric circular saw, where the workpiece is
laid flat and the blade is tilted over in the vertical plane. With your
hand mitre saw, the workpice is held verically on edge and the blade is
angled in the horizontal plane.

The OP doesn't give the depth of his skirting, but using an electric saw
there's no limit. Does the hand mitre saw in your picture have the capacity
to hold a 6" or deeper skirting vertically on edge?

That picture was mentioned by somebody else.
I have a drop saw that can cut only a 4" skirting, and a bench saw that
can cut skirting several feet high. But this is all beside the point.
Most saws can easily cut an angle down to 45° , so the desired 47½°
is also easy.

In my rough picture here, it's very hard to cut less than 45°, e.g.
along the red line and very easy to cut along the green line. Remember
that the OP said that his wall had a 95° angle.

http://i3.tinypic.com/3166b6b.jpg


I think your confusion may be my mistake. The angle could actually be
85°. The wall slopes inwards not outwards. The reason I initially said
95° is that dividing by two gives an angle 45 which is impossible for
most cheap mitre saws.

But to be honest I am still confused. If you imagine the walls bisecting
a circle then the greater angle from one wall to the other around the
corner is 275°.

Graham

Graham Jones wrote:

I think your confusion may be my mistake. The angle could actually be
85°. The wall slopes inwards not outwards. The reason I initially said
95° is that dividing by two gives an angle 45 which is impossible for
most cheap mitre saws.

But to be honest I am still confused. If you imagine the walls bisecting
a circle then the greater angle from one wall to the other around the
corner is 275°.

In that case it's an 85° angle and you need to cut the skirting 42.5°
which is hard to do, and what I assumed in the beginning was the
problem.

So if you can cut the skirting vertically in a mitre box or dropsaw,
just use a spacing block and a clamp, as in this diagram.
http://i7.tinypic.com/3y5gw7r.jpg

If the skirting is too high and you have to cut it with a Skilsaw
(which I think would be horribly inaccurate), you'll have to do it some
other way that some clever person may be able to invent

"Matty F" wrote in message
ups.com...

Graham Jones wrote:

I think your confusion may be my mistake. The angle could actually be
85°. The wall slopes inwards not outwards. The reason I initially said
95° is that dividing by two gives an angle 45 which is impossible for
most cheap mitre saws.

But to be honest I am still confused. If you imagine the walls bisecting
a circle then the greater angle from one wall to the other around the
corner is 275°.

: In that case it's an 85° angle and you need to cut the skirting 42.5°
: which is hard to do

Not if you use a Skilsaw set at 47½° and turn the work over, like I said in
the first place.

: If the skirting is too high and you have to cut it with a Skilsaw
: (which I think would be horribly inaccurate)

Not if you run the saw along a clamped fence.

Anyway, this is not precision engineering. Graham, assuming you are fixing
moulded softwood or MDF to be painted, I would suggest you cut the mitre at
45° any way you can and if this leaves any gaps in the joint that you're not
happy with, all you have to do is *very* lightly plane or sand off the cut
faces towards the rear edge to tighten the angle (it's called "easing"),
until you're happy with it. Maybe you could try it with a couple of scrap
ends first.

Peter





--
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