Geoff,

I have a Wickes Combi 2000 (a re-badged Halstead Quattro)- the boiler goes
through the normal ignition sequence when there is a call for heat (either
DHW or CH) but whilst the burner ignites, the flame never goes to maximum.

The DHW and CH thermistors appear to be operating normally.

There is no output from the driver board (a Honeywell 4115B 1168, Halstead
part 500563)to the Modureg. The solenoid is not open circuit and the burner
ignites fully when the spindle on the Modureg is pushed in by hand.

The manufacturers fault finding charts suggest that the driver board is
replaced.

I have removed the board - there are no obvious blown components, cracked or
shorted tracks. I think it possible that it might have got splashed with
water but there is no evidence of this.

Do you think that replacing the board will likely solve the problem?

If so, do you have a spare board in stock?

If you have, can I drop in to the unit and swap the board for a recon
tomorrow? (Any chance of a guided tour if you aren't too busy?)

If I don't get a reply tonight, I'll try calling you tomorrow.

Many thanks,
Adrian Berry

In message , Adrian Berry
writes
Geoff,

I have a Wickes Combi 2000 (a re-badged Halstead Quattro)- the boiler goes
through the normal ignition sequence when there is a call for heat (either
DHW or CH) but whilst the burner ignites, the flame never goes to maximum.

The DHW and CH thermistors appear to be operating normally.

OK

There is no output from the driver board (a Honeywell 4115B 1168, Halstead
part 500563)to the Modureg.

You are looking for up to 28v I take it

The solenoid is not open circuit and the burner
ignites fully when the spindle on the Modureg is pushed in by hand.

The manufacturers fault finding charts suggest that the driver board is
replaced.

If the main valve is operating and the sensors are OK, then that would
be the logical conclusion


I have removed the board - there are no obvious blown components, cracked or
shorted tracks. I think it possible that it might have got splashed with
water but there is no evidence of this.

Do you think that replacing the board will likely solve the problem?

From what you have said above, it sounds like it

Electronics doesn't always die with a bang


If so, do you have a spare board in stock?

I think I have one


If you have, can I drop in to the unit and swap the board for a recon
tomorrow? (Any chance of a guided tour if you aren't too busy?)

Give me a ring - 01923 229224


If I don't get a reply tonight, I'll try calling you tomorrow.

Many thanks,
Adrian Berry



--
geoff

Thanks Geoff,

I'll call you tomorrow.

By the way, I have had dealings with Solent Plastics on Ebay - excellent
firm and proper industrial plastic boxes and crates. I actually dealt with
them directly "off Ebay" by creditcard, which is just as well since they
don't seem to have anything on auction at the moment. Full contact deatils
and indication of products at:-
http://members.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewUserPage&userid=solentplastics

I found in my searches that you have a competitor! Did you know about
adlinkuk (.com) in Wembley? I feel safe in mentioning this as I can't
imagine any regular user of uk.d-i-y using them!

Thanks for replying, see you tomorrow.

Adrian

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , Adrian Berry
writes
Geoff,

I have a Wickes Combi 2000 (a re-badged Halstead Quattro)- the boiler goes
through the normal ignition sequence when there is a call for heat (either
DHW or CH) but whilst the burner ignites, the flame never goes to maximum.

The DHW and CH thermistors appear to be operating normally.

OK

There is no output from the driver board (a Honeywell 4115B 1168, Halstead
part 500563)to the Modureg.

You are looking for up to 28v I take it

The solenoid is not open circuit and the burner
ignites fully when the spindle on the Modureg is pushed in by hand.

The manufacturers fault finding charts suggest that the driver board is
replaced.

If the main valve is operating and the sensors are OK, then that would be
the logical conclusion


I have removed the board - there are no obvious blown components, cracked
or
shorted tracks. I think it possible that it might have got splashed with
water but there is no evidence of this.

Do you think that replacing the board will likely solve the problem?

From what you have said above, it sounds like it

Electronics doesn't always die with a bang


If so, do you have a spare board in stock?

I think I have one


If you have, can I drop in to the unit and swap the board for a recon
tomorrow? (Any chance of a guided tour if you aren't too busy?)

Give me a ring - 01923 229224


If I don't get a reply tonight, I'll try calling you tomorrow.

Many thanks,
Adrian Berry



--
geoff

The message
from raden contains these words:

Electronics doesn't always die with a bang

Nor do they always let the magic blue smoke out even gently.

I used to fix tape modules for Rediffusion, and the commonest
electronics fault was an output transistor that just turned up its toes.
Generally it was mechanical though - grime and wear.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

In message , Adrian Berry
writes
Thanks Geoff,

I'll call you tomorrow.


Modureg - take the loom connector off the pcb and check for a short
circuit (testing the loom also). Something is pulling the volts down on
the pcb output. I don't think that there is a problem with the ign pcb

I would expect to see a couple of kilohms on the modureg


--
geoff

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , Adrian Berry
writes
Thanks Geoff,

I'll call you tomorrow.


Modureg - take the loom connector off the pcb and check for a short
circuit (testing the loom also). Something is pulling the volts down on
the pcb output. I don't think that there is a problem with the ign pcb

I would expect to see a couple of kilohms on the modureg


--
geoff

I tested the modureg resistance last night - can't remember the value but it
seemed right at the time, definitely not a short.

One wire from the driver pcb goes direct to the modureg, the other goes to
the ignition board and thence to the other modureg terminal.

The driver board appears to produce about 32V at the modureg output pins and
the voltage seems constant rather than modulating (using a DMM with fairly
slow sampling). This is when the modureg is disconnected and so the board is
driving an open circuit.

The two modureg leads on the ignition board appear to be connected across
the normally open contacts of a relay (not absolutely sure as I don't know
the pinouts).

The relay contacts do not appear to change state when I would expect the
modureg to be operating. I can't really tell if the relay is actuating but
the contacts are remaining open or if it is not actuating at all.

Essentially, the modureg control voltage is not passing through the ignition
board's relay contacts.

Several of the resistors on the ignition board look overheated with the pcb
looking quite brown around them - however the values are stable, no open or
closed circuits.

One of the diodes seemed to present a high resistance in both directions!

I have put it all together for now, CH switched off and the piston that
should be operated by by the modureg is held in with a bit of sticky tape -
not fantastic but at least I have hot water.

I think I need a new ignition board - unless you have any brilliant ideas?



Regards.,
Adrian

In message , Adrian Berry
writes

I'll call you tomorrow.


Modureg - take the loom connector off the pcb and check for a short
circuit (testing the loom also). Something is pulling the volts down on
the pcb output. I don't think that there is a problem with the ign pcb

I would expect to see a couple of kilohms on the modureg

I tested the modureg resistance last night - can't remember the value but it
seemed right at the time, definitely not a short.

But did you test at the loom connector that goes into the pcb or at the
gas valve ?

I have put it all together for now, CH switched off and the piston that
should be operated by by the modureg is held in with a bit of sticky tape -
not fantastic but at least I have hot water.

I think I need a new ignition board - unless you have any brilliant ideas?

I think we're running out of options

.... Monday

--
geoff

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , Adrian Berry
writes

I'll call you tomorrow.


Modureg - take the loom connector off the pcb and check for a short
circuit (testing the loom also). Something is pulling the volts down on
the pcb output. I don't think that there is a problem with the ign pcb

I would expect to see a couple of kilohms on the modureg

I tested the modureg resistance last night - can't remember the value but
it
seemed right at the time, definitely not a short.

But did you test at the loom connector that goes into the pcb or at the
gas valve ?


Checked the resistance across the terminals of the solenoid with no loom
connected.

Too awkward to measure the output voltage on the pcb as I didn't want to
disconnect the thermistos which are on the same loom.

The output voltage is fine measured at the ends of the loom furthest from
the driver pcb i.e. one lead on the modureg and one lead where it enters the
ignition pcb. The volts just don't go through the ignition pcb to the other
modureg terminal.



I have put it all together for now, CH switched off and the piston that
should be operated by by the modureg is held in with a bit of sticky
tape -
not fantastic but at least I have hot water.

I think I need a new ignition board - unless you have any brilliant ideas?

I think we're running out of options

... Monday

--
geoff


Adrian

In message , Adrian Berry
writes
I tested the modureg resistance last night - can't remember the value but
it
seemed right at the time, definitely not a short.

But did you test at the loom connector that goes into the pcb or at the
gas valve ?


Checked the resistance across the terminals of the solenoid with no loom
connected.

Too awkward to measure the output voltage on the pcb as I didn't want to
disconnect the thermistos which are on the same loom.


NO

remove the molex connector from the pcb, measure the resistance across
the pins which go to the mod. The idea is to test the whole path, there
might be a short to earth caused by a chaffed cable or something silly



--
geoff

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , Adrian Berry
writes
I tested the modureg resistance last night - can't remember the value
but
it
seemed right at the time, definitely not a short.

But did you test at the loom connector that goes into the pcb or at the
gas valve ?


Checked the resistance across the terminals of the solenoid with no loom
connected.

Too awkward to measure the output voltage on the pcb as I didn't want to
disconnect the thermistos which are on the same loom.


NO

remove the molex connector from the pcb, measure the resistance across the
pins which go to the mod. The idea is to test the whole path, there might
be a short to earth caused by a chaffed cable or something silly


OK but if I do that it will read open circuit as only one lead goes from the
driver molex to the mod, one lead goes from the driver molex to the ignition
molex and one lead from the ignition molex to the mod.

On the ignition board, the two molex pins are connected through some realay
contacts which appear to be permanently open.



--
geoff

In message , Adrian Berry
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , Adrian Berry
writes
I tested the modureg resistance last night - can't remember the value
but
it
seemed right at the time, definitely not a short.

But did you test at the loom connector that goes into the pcb or at the
gas valve ?


Checked the resistance across the terminals of the solenoid with no loom
connected.

Too awkward to measure the output voltage on the pcb as I didn't want to
disconnect the thermistos which are on the same loom.


NO

remove the molex connector from the pcb, measure the resistance across the
pins which go to the mod. The idea is to test the whole path, there might
be a short to earth caused by a chaffed cable or something silly


OK but if I do that it will read open circuit as only one lead goes from the
driver molex to the mod, one lead goes from the driver molex to the ignition
molex and one lead from the ignition molex to the mod.

On the ignition board, the two molex pins are connected through some realay
contacts which appear to be permanently open.

Aha - hopefully located the fault then


--
geoff