I haven't done any paint stripping for about 30 years.
I have the stringers if some stairs to strip... see photo...

www.gillandroy.com/diy/paintstrip

Not the handrails/newels etc - they are all going,
just the stringers..

I would imagine technology has improved in 30 years.

There are multiple layers of gloss going back to the 60's.

Whats the best way to tackle this ?

Thanks,
Roy

On 2006-08-12 19:56:28 +0100, "RzB" said:

I haven't done any paint stripping for about 30 years.
I have the stringers if some stairs to strip... see photo...

www.gillandroy.com/diy/paintstrip

Not the handrails/newels etc - they are all going,
just the stringers..

I would imagine technology has improved in 30 years.

There are multiple layers of gloss going back to the 60's.

Whats the best way to tackle this ?

Thanks,
Roy

Nitromors.

It's relatively pernicious stuff and will remove all the layers of
paint but may need more than one application. Generally on a
relatively flat surface without twiddly bits like this, it should work
well.

There is a chemical solvent in a gel, the gel being to stop it
evaporating too quickly. It can be made much more effective by
treating smallish areas (maybe 0.5m^2 at a time) and covering in cling
film.

The carpet will need to be removed and the floor below protected very
well with plastic sheet.

You need plenty of ventilation, so this is the right time of year to do
the job. Also it will wreck cotton clothes if left in contact so old
ones are needed. Disposable plastic gloves are important too. It
will burn on the skin after a while if allowed to contact it. I
always keep a bucket of water handy as well, just in case. Water stops
its action immediately and is useful if you accidentally get any on
your hands.

RzB wrote:
I haven't done any paint stripping for about 30 years.
I have the stringers if some stairs to strip... see photo...

www.gillandroy.com/diy/paintstrip

Not the handrails/newels etc - they are all going,
just the stringers..

I would imagine technology has improved in 30 years.

There are multiple layers of gloss going back to the 60's.

Whats the best way to tackle this ?

Thanks,
Roy

Nitromors and baco (tin foil) dampened down over the nitromors to keep it
moist whilst it burns through the paint.
As stated you could use cling film but tin foil is a better as it doesn't
peel off as does cling film

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
RzB wrote:

I haven't done any paint stripping for about 30 years.
I have the stringers if some stairs to strip... see photo...

www.gillandroy.com/diy/paintstrip

Not the handrails/newels etc - they are all going,
just the stringers..

I would imagine technology has improved in 30 years.

There are multiple layers of gloss going back to the 60's.

Whats the best way to tackle this ?

Thanks,
Roy


I'm sure that Andy and the 3rd Earl are right about Nitromors.

But I was concerned about the newels and handrails. Are you replacing them
with something different? If not, you staircase will be in breach of
building regs. [Actually, the LHS looks as if it may be, already!]
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
RzB wrote:
I haven't done any paint stripping for about 30 years.
I have the stringers if some stairs to strip... see photo...

www.gillandroy.com/diy/paintstrip

Not the handrails/newels etc - they are all going,
just the stringers..

I would imagine technology has improved in 30 years.

There are multiple layers of gloss going back to the 60's.

Whats the best way to tackle this ?

Thanks,
Roy

Nitromors and baco (tin foil) dampened down over the nitromors to keep it
moist whilst it burns through the paint.
As stated you could use cling film but tin foil is a better as it doesn't
peel off as does cling film


Nitromors will go straight through cling film, or any plastic. I think
Andy was referring to the water based surfactant type of stripper. Never
used it but I guess it's the same thing I've seen the council use on
graffiti

RzB wrote:
I haven't done any paint stripping for about 30 years.
I have the stringers if some stairs to strip... see photo...

www.gillandroy.com/diy/paintstrip

Not the handrails/newels etc - they are all going,
just the stringers..

I would imagine technology has improved in 30 years.

There are multiple layers of gloss going back to the 60's.

Whats the best way to tackle this ?

I would have thought dismantling it and sending it to a stripper would
be the quickest way in the long run. Doesn't look like it would be too
difficult

On 2006-08-12 23:32:33 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
RzB wrote:
I haven't done any paint stripping for about 30 years.
I have the stringers if some stairs to strip... see photo...

www.gillandroy.com/diy/paintstrip

Not the handrails/newels etc - they are all going,
just the stringers..

I would imagine technology has improved in 30 years.

There are multiple layers of gloss going back to the 60's.

Whats the best way to tackle this ?

Thanks,
Roy

Nitromors and baco (tin foil) dampened down over the nitromors to keep it
moist whilst it burns through the paint.
As stated you could use cling film but tin foil is a better as it doesn't
peel off as does cling film


Nitromors will go straight through cling film, or any plastic. I think
Andy was referring to the water based surfactant type of stripper.
Never used it but I guess it's the same thing I've seen the council use
on graffiti

No it's fine with cling film and not the toy version either......

On 2006-08-12 22:11:37 +0100, "Roger Mills" said:

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
RzB wrote:

I haven't done any paint stripping for about 30 years.
I have the stringers if some stairs to strip... see photo...

www.gillandroy.com/diy/paintstrip

Not the handrails/newels etc - they are all going,
just the stringers..

I would imagine technology has improved in 30 years.

There are multiple layers of gloss going back to the 60's.

Whats the best way to tackle this ?

Thanks,
Roy


I'm sure that Andy and the 3rd Earl are right about Nitromors.

But I was concerned about the newels and handrails. Are you replacing
them with something different? If not, you staircase will be in breach
of building regs. [Actually, the LHS looks as if it may be, already!]

Existing house...... Building regulations not retroactive..... ???

"Andy Hall" wrote in message

=== clip


Nitromors.

It's relatively pernicious stuff and will remove all the layers of paint
but may need more than one application. Generally on a relatively flat
surface without twiddly bits like this, it should work well.

There is a chemical solvent in a gel, the gel being to stop it evaporating
too quickly. It can be made much more effective by treating smallish
areas (maybe 0.5m^2 at a time) and covering in cling film.

The carpet will need to be removed and the floor below protected very well
with plastic sheet.

You need plenty of ventilation, so this is the right time of year to do
the job. Also it will wreck cotton clothes if left in contact so old
ones are needed. Disposable plastic gloves are important too. It will
burn on the skin after a while if allowed to contact it. I always keep a
bucket of water handy as well, just in case. Water stops its action
immediately and is useful if you accidentally get any on your hands.


Hmmm - No magic wand then...

BTW - Floor and carpet have already gone...

Thanks for the advice. I think Nitromors was arount 30 years ago.
Is this and improved version or the same stuff?

Thanks for your help,
Roy

wrote in message
"Roger Mills" wrote:

But I was concerned about the newels and handrails. Are you replacing
them
with something different? If not, you staircase will be in breach of
building regs. [Actually, the LHS looks as if it may be, already!]

The RHS looks as if it would pass a 100mm sphere, so is non compliant
anyway.

Is the glass on the LHS safety glass?

--
B Thumbs

Yes - the handrails are to be replaced - you are correct - they
are not compliant. The LH side is not compliant either.. as you
can see it's sort of open plan with no rail etc. The gap between
the stringer and the glass is also more than 100mm.

When I'm done the RH side will be compliant. I'm not intending
to do anything with the LH side. I could add another set of spindles
and a hand rail but that would look awful.

Not sure about the glass - they are big double glazed units.

We have been in the house 18 years and three boisterous boys have
grown up in it, survived and flown the nest.....

Do I need to notify BC if fitting new hand rails/spindles?

Thanks,
Roy

On 2006-08-13 09:39:13 +0100, "RzB" said:

"Andy Hall" wrote in message

=== clip


Nitromors.

It's relatively pernicious stuff and will remove all the layers of
paint but may need more than one application. Generally on a
relatively flat surface without twiddly bits like this, it should work
well.

There is a chemical solvent in a gel, the gel being to stop it
evaporating too quickly. It can be made much more effective by
treating smallish areas (maybe 0.5m^2 at a time) and covering in cling
film.

The carpet will need to be removed and the floor below protected very
well with plastic sheet.

You need plenty of ventilation, so this is the right time of year to do
the job. Also it will wreck cotton clothes if left in contact so old
ones are needed. Disposable plastic gloves are important too. It
will burn on the skin after a while if allowed to contact it. I
always keep a bucket of water handy as well, just in case. Water stops
its action immediately and is useful if you accidentally get any on
your hands.


Hmmm - No magic wand then...

BTW - Floor and carpet have already gone...

Thanks for the advice. I think Nitromors was arount 30 years ago.
Is this and improved version or the same stuff?

Thanks for your help,
Roy

There are a few variants for different purposes, but broadly the recipe
is the same.