Hi All,

I have recently bought 3 x 'Slimline' (100l) water butts and hooked
one to the main down pipe with one of those water diverter fittings.

The first decent batch of rain filled the first butt and that in turn
filled the second (not got the 3rd coupled yet, can't find the
connection kits easily?).

Question to those who know how these (passive) diverters work [1]
*is*, would the back pressure of cross filling the second butt mean it
wouldn't fill as efficiently as it filled the first?

I was thinking it might be better to split the feed *before* it enters
the butts .. or 'daisy chain the feed across the input of all 3 butts
(assuming that would reduce any chance of back pressure slowing the
feed)?

All the best ...

T i m

[1] It's not a condensing boiler so Dr Drivel need not reply and yes,
there may be an 'alt.obscure.noreplies' ng Mr Bacon but I'm happy here
thanks! ;-)

"T i m" wrote

I have recently bought 3 x 'Slimline' (100l) water butts and hooked
..............snip

In theory, provided the connection pipes between the butts are large enough
to self vent (ie not restrict flow) and the butts are vented themselves (so
back pressure cannot develop), it shouldn't make a difference.
BUT practice can be a different thing.
Despite your reluctance, you may get replies and other suggestions from real
experience at uk.rec.gardening, very practical lot there I've found.

Phil

"T i m" wrote in message
...
Hi All,

I have recently bought 3 x 'Slimline' (100l) water butts and hooked
one to the main down pipe with one of those water diverter fittings.

The first decent batch of rain filled the first butt and that in turn
filled the second (not got the 3rd coupled yet, can't find the
connection kits easily?).

Question to those who know how these (passive) diverters work [1]
*is*, would the back pressure of cross filling the second butt mean it
wouldn't fill as efficiently as it filled the first?

If it's one of the well known makes it will work perfectly, don't mess with
it.

I don't understand why you can't find the connection kits ...

Mary

The message
from AJH contains these words:

Keep a well fitting lid or you may be plagued by gnats.

And risk drowning curious cats who jump up for a look, fall in and can't
get out.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

T i m wrote:
Hi All,

I have recently bought 3 x 'Slimline' (100l) water butts and hooked
one to the main down pipe with one of those water diverter fittings.

The first decent batch of rain filled the first butt and that in turn
filled the second (not got the 3rd coupled yet, can't find the
connection kits easily?).

Question to those who know how these (passive) diverters work [1]
*is*, would the back pressure of cross filling the second butt mean it
wouldn't fill as efficiently as it filled the first?

I was thinking it might be better to split the feed *before* it enters
the butts .. or 'daisy chain the feed across the input of all 3 butts
(assuming that would reduce any chance of back pressure slowing the
feed)?

All the best ...

T i m

[1] It's not a condensing boiler so Dr Drivel need not reply and yes,
there may be an 'alt.obscure.noreplies' ng Mr Bacon but I'm happy here
thanks! ;-)


First time I've ever seen anyone ask about the hydrodynamics of their
butt.

The connecting pipe between 2 butts, the lower it is the sooner the 2nd
butt starts filling, so the less of a problem there would be.

I would not mess with the divertor, this will cause further problems.


NT

wrote:

T i m wrote:
Hi All,

I have recently bought 3 x 'Slimline' (100l) water butts and hooked
one to the main down pipe with one of those water diverter fittings.

The first decent batch of rain filled the first butt and that in turn
filled the second (not got the 3rd coupled yet, can't find the
connection kits easily?).

Question to those who know how these (passive) diverters work [1]
*is*, would the back pressure of cross filling the second butt mean
it wouldn't fill as efficiently as it filled the first?

I was thinking it might be better to split the feed *before* it
enters the butts .. or 'daisy chain the feed across the input of all
3 butts (assuming that would reduce any chance of back pressure
slowing the feed)?

All the best ...

T i m

[1] It's not a condensing boiler so Dr Drivel need not reply and yes,
there may be an 'alt.obscure.noreplies' ng Mr Bacon but I'm happy
here
thanks! ;-)


First time I've ever seen anyone ask about the hydrodynamics of their
butt.

The connecting pipe between 2 butts, the lower it is the sooner the
2nd butt starts filling, so the less of a problem there would be.

I would not mess with the divertor, this will cause further problems.


NT

I have four butts at the corners of the greenhouse. They are simply
connected together with hose from tap to tap - with "T" pieces. They
fill together and the water can be drawn off from a tap on one of the
"T"s. If they should start to overflow the lowest butt overflow drips
into yet another open butt which we'll use for washing pots - if it
ever does overflow. So far they've seen us through all this dry weather
- it rained the day after I fitted them - for keeping the tomato
waterbed automatically topped up and for some vegetable watering too.

I should mention that they don't just get water from the greenhouse
roof. One is also top fed through a ball valve by hose from another
higher level butt which collects water from the garage roof. Next year
I'll probably fit more high level butts to collect water off the house
roof. That's a bit more difficult as the gutters and down pipes are
cast iron.

Edgar

"Guy King" wrote in message
...
The message
from AJH contains these words:

Keep a well fitting lid or you may be plagued by gnats.

And risk drowning curious cats who jump up for a look, fall in and can't
get out.

More likely small birds - I seem to have to fish them from our uncovered
dolly tub every spring :-(

Mary

"Edgar Iredale" wrote in message
...
wrote:

T i m wrote:
Hi All,

I have recently bought 3 x 'Slimline' (100l) water butts and hooked
one to the main down pipe with one of those water diverter fittings.

The first decent batch of rain filled the first butt and that in turn
filled the second (not got the 3rd coupled yet, can't find the
connection kits easily?).

Question to those who know how these (passive) diverters work [1]
*is*, would the back pressure of cross filling the second butt mean
it wouldn't fill as efficiently as it filled the first?

I was thinking it might be better to split the feed *before* it
enters the butts .. or 'daisy chain the feed across the input of all
3 butts (assuming that would reduce any chance of back pressure
slowing the feed)?

All the best ...

T i m

[1] It's not a condensing boiler so Dr Drivel need not reply and yes,
there may be an 'alt.obscure.noreplies' ng Mr Bacon but I'm happy
here
thanks! ;-)


First time I've ever seen anyone ask about the hydrodynamics of their
butt.

The connecting pipe between 2 butts, the lower it is the sooner the
2nd butt starts filling, so the less of a problem there would be.

I would not mess with the divertor, this will cause further problems.


NT

I have four butts at the corners of the greenhouse. They are simply
connected together with hose from tap to tap - with "T" pieces. They
fill together and the water can be drawn off from a tap on one of the
"T"s. If they should start to overflow the lowest butt overflow drips
into yet another open butt which we'll use for washing pots - if it
ever does overflow. So far they've seen us through all this dry weather
- it rained the day after I fitted them - for keeping the tomato
waterbed automatically topped up and for some vegetable watering too.

I should mention that they don't just get water from the greenhouse
roof. One is also top fed through a ball valve by hose from another
higher level butt which collects water from the garage roof. Next year
I'll probably fit more high level butts to collect water off the house
roof. That's a bit more difficult as the gutters and down pipes are
cast iron.

It's worth it.

We collect water from the house roof and from next door's very large garage
roof, the greenhouse roof (both sides) too. I've watered vegetables all
during this hot dry spell - except in the greenhouse which has a trickle
hose coming from one butt. That keeps the soil moist without the need for
extra watering.

I feel very smug :-) But we'll be getting more soon to collect from our own
garage roof and two sheds.

Mary

Edgar

The message t
from "Mary Fisher" contains these words:

More likely small birds - I seem to have to fish them from our uncovered
dolly tub every spring :-(

Have you thought of making a cover for it?

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 08:34:06 +0100, "TheScullster"
wrote:


"T i m" wrote

I have recently bought 3 x 'Slimline' (100l) water butts and hooked
.............snip

In theory, provided the connection pipes between the butts are large enough
to self vent (ie not restrict flow) and the butts are vented themselves (so
back pressure cannot develop), it shouldn't make a difference.

Ok ..

BUT practice can be a different thing.

Indeed. My thoughts were as the fist butt fills the water trickles
freely from the diverter into the butt. As the butt fills to then over
the level of the input fitting the water stops 'trickling and starts
backing up to the threshold level of the diverter. Once it reaches the
top level of the diverter the flow stops into the butt and then
'overflows' the diverter, down the down pipe.

At the point a link pipe would be filling the second butt the water
would already have stopped 'trickling' into the first butt and
therefore already seeing some resistance to filling?


Despite your reluctance, you may get replies and other suggestions from real
experience at uk.rec.gardening, very practical lot there I've found.

No reluctance to try elsewhere Phil .. just an 'in' n/g joke here ..
;-)

All the best ..

T i m

On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 10:06:11 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:


"T i m" wrote in message
.. .
Hi All,

I have recently bought 3 x 'Slimline' (100l) water butts and hooked
one to the main down pipe with one of those water diverter fittings.

The first decent batch of rain filled the first butt and that in turn
filled the second (not got the 3rd coupled yet, can't find the
connection kits easily?).

Question to those who know how these (passive) diverters work [1]
*is*, would the back pressure of cross filling the second butt mean it
wouldn't fill as efficiently as it filled the first?

If it's one of the well known makes it will work perfectly, don't mess with
it.
I won't ..

I don't understand why you can't find the connection kits ...

I know .. ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 11:59:57 +0100, AJH wrote:

On Thu, 27 Jul 2006 21:04:28 GMT, T i m wrote:

I was thinking it might be better to split the feed *before* it enters
the butts .. or 'daisy chain the feed across the input of all 3 butts
(assuming that would reduce any chance of back pressure slowing the
feed)?

To avoid unsightly Tees and possible difficulties finding one to fit
why not daisy chain the second and third butts at a slightly lower
level? The first will then set the level and the others will settle
out at the same.

Hmm, I did think of that except these butts have a 'pattern' on them
and moulded connection points at the top only?

Keep a well fitting lid or you may be plagued by gnats.

As seen on any buckets of water that are left about .. ;-( Luckily
these butts come with lids that take yer nails off when you try to
remove them. ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 17:47:31 +0100, Guy King
wrote:

The message
from AJH contains these words:

Keep a well fitting lid or you may be plagued by gnats.

And risk drowning curious cats who jump up for a look, fall in and can't
get out.

Much though I like animals I'm not sure I'd miss a few of the cats
that just use my garden as a toilet. Shame we don't still have the
lurcher as he didn't know about the 'right to roam' thing ;-)

All the best ...

T i m

"T i m" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 08:34:06 +0100, "TheScullster"
wrote:


"T i m" wrote

I have recently bought 3 x 'Slimline' (100l) water butts and hooked
.............snip

In theory, provided the connection pipes between the butts are large
enough
to self vent (ie not restrict flow) and the butts are vented themselves
(so
back pressure cannot develop), it shouldn't make a difference.

Ok ..

BUT practice can be a different thing.

Indeed. My thoughts were as the fist butt fills the water trickles
freely from the diverter into the butt. As the butt fills to then over
the level of the input fitting the water stops 'trickling and starts
backing up to the threshold level of the diverter. Once it reaches the
top level of the diverter the flow stops into the butt and then
'overflows' the diverter, down the down pipe.

At the point a link pipe would be filling the second butt the water
would already have stopped 'trickling' into the first butt and
therefore already seeing some resistance to filling?

Not if you fit it according to instructions.

Mary

On 28 Jul 2006 12:01:13 -0700, wrote:

First time I've ever seen anyone ask about the hydrodynamics of their
butt.

Hey, there's a first time for everything ;-)

The connecting pipe between 2 butts, the lower it is the sooner the 2nd
butt starts filling, so the less of a problem there would be.

True, and I might force the situation by raising the first butt a few
mm above the second and that above the third etc (I can't move the
inlet / outlet positions as they are moulded in to some degree).
However, the last butt would end up filled very high so I might have
to fine tune it a bit?

I would not mess with the divertor, this will cause further problems.

I hadn't intended to .. only the output hoses etc ..

All the best ..

T i m

"Guy King" wrote in message
...
The message t
from "Mary Fisher" contains these words:

More likely small birds - I seem to have to fish them from our uncovered
dolly tub every spring :-(

Have you thought of making a cover for it?

Yes, but birds do tend to use it as a watering point. We have lots of
others, dedicated and otherwise, by the way :-) A large bird bath, two hen
waterers (which are used), various other vessels round the garden are all
used but birds seem to have their favourite watering holes, just like humans
really. It's so much fun to watch through the kitchen window.

We covered it with chicken wire this spring and that seemed to work.

Mary

"T i m" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 11:59:57 +0100, AJH wrote:

On Thu, 27 Jul 2006 21:04:28 GMT, T i m wrote:



Keep a well fitting lid or you may be plagued by gnats.

As seen on any buckets of water that are left about .. ;-( Luckily
these butts come with lids that take yer nails off when you try to
remove them. ;-)

You won't need to remove the lids!

Mary

All the best ..

T i m

On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 21:39:30 +0100, Edgar Iredale
wrote:


I have four butts at the corners of the greenhouse. They are simply
connected together with hose from tap to tap - with "T" pieces. They
fill together and the water can be drawn off from a tap on one of the
"T"s.

Ok, so far so good ...

If they should start to overflow the lowest butt overflow drips
into yet another open butt which we'll use for washing pots - if it
ever does overflow.


Neat .. ;-)

So far they've seen us through all this dry weather
- it rained the day after I fitted them - for keeping the tomato
waterbed automatically topped up and for some vegetable watering too.

Nice ..

I should mention that they don't just get water from the greenhouse
roof. One is also top fed through a ball valve by hose from another
higher level butt which collects water from the garage roof. Next year
I'll probably fit more high level butts to collect water off the house
roof. That's a bit more difficult as the gutters and down pipes are
cast iron.

I am thinking of doing similar sometime ;-)

Anyway, back to your low coupled solution .. yes that would resolve my
question but I felt it could leave the system vulnerable if you had a
leak anywhere .. effectively draining the entire system? ;-(

All the best ..

T i m

On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 23:18:26 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:



Not if you fit it according to instructions.

sigh

T i m

On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 23:22:42 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:


"T i m" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 11:59:57 +0100, AJH wrote:

On Thu, 27 Jul 2006 21:04:28 GMT, T i m wrote:



Keep a well fitting lid or you may be plagued by gnats.

As seen on any buckets of water that are left about .. ;-( Luckily
these butts come with lids that take yer nails off when you try to
remove them. ;-)

You won't need to remove the lids!

You are right?

T i m

The message t
from "Mary Fisher" contains these words:

Have you thought of making a cover for it?

Yes, but birds do tend to use it as a watering point.

So hang a bit of chicken wire over the edge for them to clamber out on.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

On Sat, 29 Jul 2006 00:37:54 +0100, Owain
wrote:

T i m wrote:
Indeed. My thoughts were as the fist butt

Is that a technical term?

googles

Ah.

LOL

T i m

T i m wrote:

8------------

Anyway, back to your low coupled solution .. yes that would resolve my
question but I felt it could leave the system vulnerable if you had a
leak anywhere .. effectively draining the entire system? ;-(

All the best ..

T i m

Well it hasn't leaked yet. They had to be linked at the bottom anyway
because I wanted to be able to draw water off automatically for the
tomato bed and didn't want to have to manually switch between butts. I
put the thing up just before going on an unusually long holiday and had
little idea how quickly the water would get used.

I'm really quite pleased as this is the first time I've been completely
successful with automatic watering for the tomatoes. Previously I used
systems off the mains but whether they were the flush type or steady
drip ones they always clogged up.

The interconnecting hoses are just pushed over the butt taps and haven't
even needed clips. The "T" pieces are branded ones for linking hoses
(Gardena I think) and just push on but have a kind of clip that wedges
the pipe in position. Apart from the butts themselves those "T" pieces
were the most expensive part of the whole thing. If I hadn't been in
quite such a hurry I'd have made my own from solder "T"s and bits of
15mm pipe. But then I'd have felt the need for jubilee clips too.

Edgar

On Sat, 29 Jul 2006 07:07:16 +0100, Edgar Iredale
wrote:

T i m wrote:

8------------

Anyway, back to your low coupled solution .. yes that would resolve my
question but I felt it could leave the system vulnerable if you had a
leak anywhere .. effectively draining the entire system? ;-(

All the best ..

T i m

Well it hasn't leaked yet.

No, indeed, but *should* you get a pipe get pulled off It would drain
the whole system wouldn't it? ;-(


They had to be linked at the bottom anyway
because I wanted to be able to draw water off automatically for the
tomato bed and didn't want to have to manually switch between butts.

I think it's a good idea (ignoring the small risk above etc).
I
put the thing up just before going on an unusually long holiday and had
little idea how quickly the water would get used.

Do water meters need much 'pressure' do you know ... always
interesting to actually measure these things ('if you can measure it
you can manage it' sorta thing)?

I'm really quite pleased as this is the first time I've been completely
successful with automatic watering for the tomatoes. Previously I used
systems off the mains but whether they were the flush type or steady
drip ones they always clogged up.

So how do you do the 'automatic' bit please Edgar?

The interconnecting hoses are just pushed over the butt taps and haven't
even needed clips.

My 'slimline' butts have what looks like an ideal tap for that purpose
too ;-)

The "T" pieces are branded ones for linking hoses
(Gardena I think) and just push on but have a kind of clip that wedges
the pipe in position.

I thought the larger Hoselock 'T's' (for their irrigation system)
might do the trick .. ?


Apart from the butts themselves those "T" pieces
were the most expensive part of the whole thing. If I hadn't been in
quite such a hurry I'd have made my own from solder "T"s and bits of
15mm pipe. But then I'd have felt the need for jubilee clips too.

There are times when d-i-y isn't better or cheaper ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

T i m wrote:

8------

No, indeed, but *should* you get a pipe get pulled off It would drain
the whole system wouldn't it? ;-(

I doubt they'll pull off easily - the taps have a hose ridge. But there
are always jubilee clips for the pessimistic.


8------
Do water meters need much 'pressure' do you know ... always
interesting to actually measure these things ('if you can measure it
you can manage it' sorta thing)?

Not the kind where you use a jug and a watch. But I didn't have time to
measure so just arranged for the bed to overflow if it got too much
water.


8-------
So how do you do the 'automatic' bit please Edgar?

Easy. just run a pipe into the bed with a tap in line and turn the tap
low. The idea is that the bed retains a low level of water in the
gravel. If the water runs too much there's an overflow route.
When I've used mains water I've always been concerned to save wasting it
and had to set the flow very slow - hence they clog. This time I felt
able to be more extravagant with water.



The interconnecting hoses are just pushed over the butt taps and
haven't even needed clips.

My 'slimline' butts have what looks like an ideal tap for that purpose
too ;-)

Our butts are the Council subsidised ones and came complete with stand,
lid, tap and downpipe connector.


The "T" pieces are branded ones for linking hoses
(Gardena I think) and just push on but have a kind of clip that wedges
the pipe in position.

I thought the larger Hoselock 'T's' (for their irrigation system)
might do the trick .. ?
I think they were more expensive but if you've got them ...



Apart from the butts themselves those "T" pieces
were the most expensive part of the whole thing. If I hadn't been in
quite such a hurry I'd have made my own from solder "T"s and bits of
15mm pipe. But then I'd have felt the need for jubilee clips too.

There are times when d-i-y isn't better or cheaper ;-)
It would have been cheaper as I already had all the bits. Better? I
don't know. Either would have worked.


Edgar

"Guy King" wrote in message
...
The message t
from "Mary Fisher" contains these words:

Have you thought of making a cover for it?

Yes, but birds do tend to use it as a watering point.

So hang a bit of chicken wire over the edge for them to clamber out on.

See another post :-)

"T i m" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 23:22:42 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:


"T i m" wrote in message
. ..
On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 11:59:57 +0100, AJH wrote:

On Thu, 27 Jul 2006 21:04:28 GMT, T i m wrote:



Keep a well fitting lid or you may be plagued by gnats.

As seen on any buckets of water that are left about .. ;-( Luckily
these butts come with lids that take yer nails off when you try to
remove them. ;-)

You won't need to remove the lids!

You are right?

Well - why should you ned to remover the lids?

Mary

T i m

"T i m" wrote in message
...

....


I'm really quite pleased as this is the first time I've been completely
successful with automatic watering for the tomatoes. Previously I used
systems off the mains but whether they were the flush type or steady
drip ones they always clogged up.

So how do you do the 'automatic' bit please Edgar?

We have some timers which we bought from Lidl a long time ago for about 50p
each, they can be programmed but we haven't used them yet because we've
never been away for more than a few days in dry weather. I bet there's some
such device.


There are times when d-i-y isn't better or cheaper ;-)

More satisfying though.

Mary

"Edgar Iredale" wrote in message
...


...

When I've used mains water I've always been concerned to save wasting it
and had to set the flow very slow - hence they clog. This time I felt
able to be more extravagant with water.

So have we, it's a very good feeling.

It also saves hauling cans around or standing with a hose, which is probably
the most boring job I can think of.

Cue for new thread :-)

Mary

On Sat, 29 Jul 2006 09:02:39 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:


"T i m" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 23:22:42 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:


"T i m" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 11:59:57 +0100, AJH wrote:

On Thu, 27 Jul 2006 21:04:28 GMT, T i m wrote:



Keep a well fitting lid or you may be plagued by gnats.

As seen on any buckets of water that are left about .. ;-( Luckily
these butts come with lids that take yer nails off when you try to
remove them. ;-)

You won't need to remove the lids!

You are right?

Well - why should you ned to remover the lids?

Erm, to fit the fittings ... to check the level ... ?

T i m

On Sat, 29 Jul 2006 09:06:04 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:



There are times when d-i-y isn't better or cheaper ;-)

More satisfying though.

Always?

I generally *like* to d-i-y but will always take a production solution
when prudent to do so (time / cost / features etc).

And if the 'bought' solution fits the above then I find *that* more
satisfying that trying to d-i-y ?

All the best ..

T i m

"T i m" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 Jul 2006 09:02:39 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:


"T i m" wrote in message
. ..
On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 23:22:42 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:


"T i m" wrote in message
m...
On Fri, 28 Jul 2006 11:59:57 +0100, AJH wrote:

On Thu, 27 Jul 2006 21:04:28 GMT, T i m wrote:



Keep a well fitting lid or you may be plagued by gnats.

As seen on any buckets of water that are left about .. ;-( Luckily
these butts come with lids that take yer nails off when you try to
remove them. ;-)

You won't need to remove the lids!

You are right?

Well - why should you need to remover the lids?

Erm, to fit the fittings ... to check the level ... ?

Fit the fittings before putting on the lid.

Why do you need to check the level - except from curiosity?

If you're collecting rain water you won't need to fill the butt* and if the
diverter is fitted properly it won't overflow.

* our lids have openings on the top to drain rainwater which falls on the
lids!

Don't worry about your pretty little nails, you won't damage your extensions
or lacquer :-)

Mary

"T i m" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 Jul 2006 09:06:04 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:



There are times when d-i-y isn't better or cheaper ;-)

More satisfying though.

Always?

I think so, if it can be done. I can't make a computer so I buy one, for
instance :-)

I generally *like* to d-i-y but will always take a production solution
when prudent to do so (time / cost / features etc).

See above.

And if the 'bought' solution fits the above then I find *that* more
satisfying that trying to d-i-y ?

Well, I wish I COULD make a computer!

Mary

All the best ..

T i m

Mary Fisher wrote:

8------

We have some timers which we bought from Lidl a long time ago for
about 50p each, they can be programmed but we haven't used them yet
because we've never been away for more than a few days in dry weather.
I bet there's some such device.

8------

The timers we looked at needed mains water pressure. When I asked nobody
knew that but eventually one garden centre 'phoned the manufacturers
and they said they'd be unsuitable for use with butts. I rather think
that what is needed is an electric gate valve. Nothing with small holes
seems to work for long under low pressure conditions or where the water
isn't clean - and off roofs it isn't (Which BTW is one reason why the
lids sometimes have to come off - to clear out the sediment.).

Edgar

T i m wrote:
On 28 Jul 2006 12:01:13 -0700, wrote:

First time I've ever seen anyone ask about the hydrodynamics of their
butt.

Hey, there's a first time for everything ;-)

No sht

I would have thought that low coupling enabling all the water to be
accessible was mostly a positive thing. High coupling means manually
changing from butt to butt any time you want to use whats there. Given
that low coupling solves the fill problem I'd go with that.

I dont know what level your divertor will fill to, but if its anything
less than brim full, dropping the other 2 butts slightly would make
them truly full, thus capture more water. Staggering sounds like a good
idea to me for that reason. And if you'd drunk 3 buttfulls you'd be
staggering! I'd just have 1 butt first and see how high it fills.

Bung a few leaves in a fine mesh washbag into butt 1 (on a hook so you
can lift it out) and you've got dilute plant food.


NT

T i m wrote:
On 28 Jul 2006 12:01:13 -0700, wrote:

First time I've ever seen anyone ask about the hydrodynamics of their
butt.

Hey, there's a first time for everything ;-)

No sht

I would have thought that low coupling enabling all the water to be
accessible was mostly a positive thing. High coupling means manually
changing from butt to butt any time you want to use whats there. Given
that low coupling solves the fill problem I'd go with that.

I dont know what level your divertor will fill to, but if its anything
less than brim full, dropping the other 2 butts slightly would make
them truly full, thus capture more water. Staggering sounds like a good
idea to me for that reason. And if you'd drunk 3 buttfulls you'd be
staggering! I'd just have 1 butt first and see how high it fills.

Bung a few leaves in a fine mesh washbag into butt 1 (on a hook so you
can lift it out) and you've got dilute plant food.

Oh, one more thing: if you take your output from butt 3 you ensure
throughflow and minimise stagnation.


NT

Mary Fisher wrote:
"T i m" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 Jul 2006 09:06:04 +0100, "Mary Fisher"
wrote:


If Britain gets any less competitive we'll end up diying fridges.

NT

The message t
from "Mary Fisher" contains these words:

If you're collecting rain water you won't need to fill the butt* and if the
diverter is fitted properly it won't overflow.

Amazing how many are fitted with the take-off point in the downspout
above the required level in the butt Often a foot or so above the lid!
I've even been told by one owner (my mother) that the instructions
specifically said to do this - which I find a little hard to believe.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

The message t
from "Mary Fisher" contains these words:

Well, I wish I COULD make a computer!

They're dead easy to put together from readily available bits - and
plenty of websites and magazine articles available to show you how. In
most cases it's little more then Lego.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

The message . com
from contains these words:

I dont know what level your divertor will fill to, but if its anything
less than brim full, dropping the other 2 butts slightly would make
them truly full, thus capture more water. Staggering sounds like a good
idea to me for that reason. And if you'd drunk 3 buttfulls you'd be
staggering! I'd just have 1 butt first and see how high it fills.

About one brick-thickness would be ideal - just right for a brick plinth.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.