In article ,
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
Yes I do, but it's a woodworking one used for fairly precise work.

Interesting thought. I guess that the guard arrangements are
different as well

Pick up a cheap model and use it for cutting disc,grinding disc,thats
what I've done with this Taiwan effort.

I've got a basic compound mitre wood saw from B&Q which I think is down to
about 30 quid these days and don't use because I've got a sliding one with
a bigger blade. Wonder if there's a metal cutting disc that would fit? The
speed isn't a million miles away from an angle grinder - certainly no
faster.

--
*It's o.k. to laugh during sexŒ.Œ.just don't point!

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Guy King wrote:

The message
from John Rumm contains these words:


Though my current 330mm chopsaw blade has gone through 20 slices of 50 x
3 square box, dozens of bits of 50x5 flat and 50x50x3 and x5 angle and
is still not fully through.


Is that an abrasive or a diamond disc?


Abrasive.

That's pretty good going for an abrasive. What brand of disc is it?

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

The message
from John Rumm contains these words:

Abrasive.

That's pretty good going for an abrasive. What brand of disc is it?

Dunno - hang on, I'll wander down the garden and look.

Only a tiny shred of label left. Had a blue painted core.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
Yes I do, but it's a woodworking one used for fairly precise work.

Interesting thought. I guess that the guard arrangements are
different as well

Pick up a cheap model and use it for cutting disc,grinding disc,thats
what I've done with this Taiwan effort.

I've got a basic compound mitre wood saw from B&Q which I think is
down to about 30 quid these days and don't use because I've got a
sliding one with a bigger blade. Wonder if there's a metal cutting
disc that would fit? The speed isn't a million miles away from an
angle grinder - certainly no faster.

The wood cutter on this Taiwan effort was 210mm the nearest metal cutter I
could find was 180mm at Machinemart,but it done the job and I can now cut
steel pipe perfect and at right angles also. :-)

--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

John Rumm wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Yes. It transforms a cheap angle grinder into a useful tool. The
blades don't last for ever but they do last for a very long time. More
usefully they don't wear down smaller like abrasive cut-off discs,


Eventually they do..

To be fair they probably can't quite! ;-)

abrasives are abrasive all the way to the hub, diamond discs usually
only have a cutting edge that is at most 1cm deep and once that is worn
away you are black to a plain steel disc.


Precisely.

In article ,
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
I've got a basic compound mitre wood saw from B&Q which I think is
down to about 30 quid these days and don't use because I've got a
sliding one with a bigger blade. Wonder if there's a metal cutting
disc that would fit? The speed isn't a million miles away from an
angle grinder - certainly no faster.

The wood cutter on this Taiwan effort was 210mm the nearest metal cutter
I could find was 180mm at Machinemart,but it done the job and I can now
cut steel pipe perfect and at right angles also. :-)

Right - I'll give it a try. It's lying unused under the workbench. It was
simply too small for most of the wood cutting I do, but would be fine for
most metal stuff.

--
*Cover me. I'm changing lanes.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Guy King wrote:

The message
from John Rumm contains these words:


Abrasive.


That's pretty good going for an abrasive. What brand of disc is it?


Dunno - hang on, I'll wander down the garden and look.

Only a tiny shred of label left. Had a blue painted core.

Norton possibly? Their diamond stone cutting discs take plenty of
punishment before giving up.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Sat, 15 Jul 2006 22:44:52 +0100, Andy Hall wrote:

A hacksaw is going to become boring for doing this quite quickly I think so I
am looking for a faster alternative.

Get down to Lidl pronto - they should still have a few of last week's
angle grinder stand. That and a cut-off disk is a usable way to cut
this sort of stock.

Otherwise (if this is going to be a habit) then the 150ish quid bandsaws
(Sealey, Clarke et al) are dead handy and not too expensive. More use
than a power hacksaw, certainly (I use both, and the Rapidor hacksaw
only ever gets used for 2" thick unobtainium)

Don't get a reciprocating saw. They cut OK, but clamping is a pain. So
the results are poor, the noise is horrendous and the vibration will
shake your fillings out.

The message
from John Rumm contains these words:

Dunno - hang on, I'll wander down the garden and look.

Only a tiny shred of label left. Had a blue painted core.

Norton possibly? Their diamond stone cutting discs take plenty of
punishment before giving up.

No, certainly wasn't a Norton. Was a cheapie from the local trade tool
shop. £3, IIRC.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

On Sun, 16 Jul 2006 23:44:46 +0100, Andy Dingley wrote
(in article ):

On Sat, 15 Jul 2006 22:44:52 +0100, Andy Hall wrote:

A hacksaw is going to become boring for doing this quite quickly I think so
I
am looking for a faster alternative.

Get down to Lidl pronto - they should still have a few of last week's
angle grinder stand. That and a cut-off disk is a usable way to cut
this sort of stock.

I am outside the UK this week, so that one's out. Also, the nearest one is
quite some way away. Could order the Axminster one, though.



Otherwise (if this is going to be a habit) then the 150ish quid bandsaws
(Sealey, Clarke et al) are dead handy and not too expensive. More use
than a power hacksaw, certainly (I use both, and the Rapidor hacksaw
only ever gets used for 2" thick unobtainium)

It isn't going to be a regular thing. I don't do that much metalwork,
although do do some work with plastics for jig making. I can see that the
metal-cutting bandsaw is flexible which would be appealing. However, it's
physically quite large, I guess, and I am not sure that I could justify its
floor space in the workshop. Thought though.




Don't get a reciprocating saw. They cut OK, but clamping is a pain. So
the results are poor, the noise is horrendous and the vibration will
shake your fillings out.

Shouldn't be problems there. I don't have any amalgam ones :-)


The renting a tubing cutter and pipe vice idea quite appeals, assuming it
will cut through the material OK.

Andy Hall wrote:
I have a need to cut quite a number of lengths of galvanised steel tube
(about 30)

25mm ID, 33.7mm OD e.g. http://www.fhbrundle.com/tube-14.htm

A hacksaw is going to become boring for doing this quite quickly I think so I
am looking for a faster alternative.

Is this angle grinder territory? If so, can anybody suggest a suitable
cutting wheel?

Otherwise, is a more substantial saw like a cutoff saw required?

I've read through this thread looking for someone to answer the
question, that if you cut galvanising how to you re-seal it ? If the
assembly is to be made of coated steel then there it must be required
to be used in a situation where the galvanising is complete - cut it
and rusting will occur.

I want to build a conservatory of galvanised 2" box section steel as
there is a headroom problem using anything else and if I buy it in and
cut it how do I then protect the exposed ends, drill holes, etc.

Rob

The message .com
from "robgraham" contains these words:

I want to build a conservatory of galvanised 2" box section steel as
there is a headroom problem using anything else and if I buy it in and
cut it how do I then protect the exposed ends, drill holes, etc.

Buy plain, put it together (the frame, not the whole thing!) then take
it apart, send it to the galvanisers, then put it all back together
again.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

On 17 Jul 2006 12:41:52 -0700, "robgraham"
had this to say:

I've read through this thread looking for someone to answer the
question, that if you cut galvanising how to you re-seal it ? If the
assembly is to be made of coated steel then there it must be required
to be used in a situation where the galvanising is complete - cut it
and rusting will occur.

I want to build a conservatory of galvanised 2" box section steel as
there is a headroom problem using anything else and if I buy it in and
cut it how do I then protect the exposed ends, drill holes, etc.

Use zinc-rich paint on all the cut surfaces.

--
Frank Erskine
Sunderland

"robgraham" wrote in message
oups.com...

Andy Hall wrote:
I have a need to cut quite a number of lengths of galvanised steel tube
(about 30)

25mm ID, 33.7mm OD e.g. http://www.fhbrundle.com/tube-14.htm

A hacksaw is going to become boring for doing this quite quickly I think
so I
am looking for a faster alternative.

Is this angle grinder territory? If so, can anybody suggest a suitable
cutting wheel?

Otherwise, is a more substantial saw like a cutoff saw required?

I've read through this thread looking for someone to answer the
question, that if you cut galvanising how to you re-seal it ? If the
assembly is to be made of coated steel then there it must be required
to be used in a situation where the galvanising is complete - cut it
and rusting will occur.

I want to build a conservatory of galvanised 2" box section steel as
there is a headroom problem using anything else and if I buy it in and
cut it how do I then protect the exposed ends, drill holes, etc.

Rob


==========================
'Galvafroid' paint - roughly 'cold galvaniser'.

Cic.

The message
from "Cicero" contains these words:

'Galvafroid' paint - roughly 'cold galvaniser'.

Great stuff provided it hasn't sat in stock for a year or two. I had a
dozen tins once which the boss told me to stir. The zinc powder had
settled into the bottom and was thoroughly stuck. Took /ages/.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.