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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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Moving a Lightswitch - Cavity Wall
"John Prentice" wrote in message om... Hi folks, I've moved into a house where one of the bedrooms has been made smaller via a cavity plasterboard partition. The chunk that has been taken away is now an extended part of the hall. (The previous occupants had to do this before selling the house, in order to get retrospective planning permission for other alterations they had made.) The only trouble is that the lightswitch for the bedroom is located on what is now the opposite side of the hall! I want to move the lightswitch into the remaining part of the bedroom, and while I'm quite competent with the wiring side of things, I'm worried about what I'll do about wooden supports inside the cavity. If I tried to drop a cable down from above, and it hit a joist higher than where I wanted the lightswitch, how should I tackle this? It must be a common problem and I'm hoping it's the kind of thing where there's a simple solution that electricians use all the time! I've already considered: (a) cutting open the wall and replastering, (b) installing a pull-cord from the ceiling instead, and (c) trunking on the face of the wall, but none of these sounds very attractive. If anybody here can suggest something else I'd be grateful for your comments. Sorry if this has been covered before. The FAQ concentrates more on how to find the cable inside the wall and pull it through the lightswitch cut-out, and I've searched Google to no avail. With thanks. John Most stud partitions which I have come across (or even built!) have horizontal noggins between the uprights at approx 1/3 and 2/3 of ceiling height. If yours is like this, you'll need to get through both the upper frame member (no problem from above the ceiling) *and* the noggin at 2/3 height. This is the fun bit! Unless you remove some of the plasterboard, you will need a very long, thin drill - well it can be 1/2" dia, but needs to be upwards of 3' long. The cutout for the switch is easy - and you can use a hollow-fixing box. It will help if your holes through the top frame and noggin are in line with the switch. You will then need a long piece of stiff wire, fed down through the holes, and retrieved through the switch cutout, to pull the cable through. HTH, Roger |
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