In order to install a new close-coupled WC I need to shorten the
existing soil-pipe by a few inches. It appears to be cast-iron
(1950s).

My Collins DIY manual suggests hiring a "ratchet chain-link cutter"
for this task. I seem to recall reports, however, that cast-iron can
be sucessfully cut with an angle-grinder.

I have sufficient access all round for my 4.5" grinder. What are the
chances of managing this, or is there a significant danger of breaking
the pipe? Would regular metal-cutting discs do the job?

Thanks for your thoughts.

--
Ben Edgington
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mail to "ben" at this address may be read by a human being.
http://www.edginet.org/

My Collins DIY manual suggests hiring a "ratchet chain-link cutter"
for this task. I seem to recall reports, however, that cast-iron can
be sucessfully cut with an angle-grinder.

I have sufficient access all round for my 4.5" grinder. What are the
chances of managing this, or is there a significant danger of breaking
the pipe? Would regular metal-cutting discs do the job?


Unless you are very hamfisted I doubt if you would break the pipe and I
would think a metal-cutting disc on the angle grinder would be the ideal
tool. It's the one I'd use if I was doing what you're doing.

Rob Graham

Ben Edgington wrote:
I seem to recall reports, however, that cast-iron [pipe] can
be sucessfully cut with an angle-grinder.

Yes, it can, just keep the blade moving so as not to locally
heat the pipe too much. Make a "ring" around the pipe first,
not going right through, and gradually deepen it 'till it
goes through. You could probably use a hack-saw, too.


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On Tue, 2 Sep 2003 08:20:26 -0400, "jerrybuilt "
] wrote:

Ben Edgington wrote:
I seem to recall reports, however, that cast-iron [pipe] can
be sucessfully cut with an angle-grinder.

Yes, it can, just keep the blade moving so as not to locally
heat the pipe too much. Make a "ring" around the pipe first,
not going right through, and gradually deepen it 'till it
goes through. You could probably use a hack-saw, too.


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Sent via the PAXemail system at paxemail.com




I have watched an experienced professional cut through a cast iron
soild pipe 'spur' in situ with a hacksaw to shorten it. I was very
impressed as he made a clean square cut but it looked very hard work
I do not think he would have done it if he could have thought of any
other way in the confined space available!

"robgraham" writes:

[ Cutting cast iron pipe with angle-grinder]

Unless you are very hamfisted I doubt if you would break the pipe and I
would think a metal-cutting disc on the angle grinder would be the ideal
tool. It's the one I'd use if I was doing what you're doing.

Many thanks for your advice and others who replied. I'll give it
a try later this week and let you know how hamfisted I turn out
to be 8^)

--
Ben Edgington
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mail to "ben" at this address may be read by a human being.
http://www.edginet.org/

"Ben Edgington" wrote in message
...
In order to install a new close-coupled WC I need to shorten the
existing soil-pipe by a few inches. It appears to be cast-iron
(1950s).

My Collins DIY manual suggests hiring a "ratchet chain-link cutter"
for this task. I seem to recall reports, however, that cast-iron can
be sucessfully cut with an angle-grinder.

I have sufficient access all round for my 4.5" grinder. What are the
chances of managing this, or is there a significant danger of breaking
the pipe? Would regular metal-cutting discs do the job?

I cut up a cast-iron bath with an angle grinder, so that two people could
lift the bits out. It worked fine, but definitely wear a mask. For a pipe, I
would wrap a piece of wide masking tape around first, to give you a line to
work to. Start with a light cut to mark the place you want to cut and keep
the cutter moving. Then it is only a question of time.

Colin Bignell

Ben Edgington writes:
In order to install a new close-coupled WC I need to shorten the
existing soil-pipe by a few inches. It appears to be cast-iron
(1950s).

Feedback as promised...

Despite the Collins manual's insistence that *all* old soil pipes are
cast-iron, and despite it's black, cold appearance, it actually turned
out to be some kind of cement (painted black). The pipe walls are
thick: about 10mm or so.

Wary of asbestos (there is a lot of asbestos cement around this house)
I put on a high-grade mask, damped the site down with lots of water
and cut not too vigorously with a hacksaw. Five minutes later, job
done.

Very relieved to get new WC installed and working perfectly 8^). Bath
next.

Thanks for all the advice,

--
Ben Edgington
Note that email to is discarded. However,
mail to "ben" at this address may be read by a human being.
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