Was just wondering if anyone had any suggestions on the specifications
and/or brands to look out for when choosing energy saving light bulbs?

Or if anyone has any suggestions of low price retailers of energy
saving light bulbs?

Or any other info about them... Thank you!

Morrisons are selling Philips 60W & 100W equivalents for 49p a go IIRC.

Thanks - is that for energy saving light bulbs?

I thought they were a lot more expensive than that...

Yes they are energy saving - from memory the 60W equivalent are around
11W and the 100W equivalent around 16W. In my semi-local store there
are a random mixture of BC & ES on the shelves, just something to be
aware of.

On 3 May 2006 06:19:42 -0700 someone who may be
wrote this:-

Or if anyone has any suggestions of low price retailers of energy
saving light bulbs?

Use a search engine, on this group and more widely, instead of
expecting to be spoon-fed. They were discussed a few days ago.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

wrote:
Was just wondering if anyone had any suggestions on the specifications
and/or brands to look out for when choosing energy saving light bulbs?

Or if anyone has any suggestions of low price retailers of energy
saving light bulbs?

Or any other info about them... Thank you!

fwiw I had a couple of philps and didnt like them, Osram I've had good
results with. Equivalent power is at best 4x, so ignore the wattage
equivalent nonsense on the pack.

And stay well away from cheapie £1 jobs. Whatevcer you use will save
you the cost of the bulb several times over, so its ok to get 1 of each
of a few brands if youre new to them. Some are excellent, some so-so,
some borderline, and the £1 halophosphate jobs are dire.


NT

wrote:
Yes they are energy saving - from memory the 60W equivalent are around
11W and the 100W equivalent around 16W. In my semi-local store there
are a random mixture of BC & ES on the shelves, just something to be
aware of.

Thanks for the info.

David Hansen wrote:


Use a search engine, on this group and more widely, instead of
expecting to be spoon-fed. They were discussed a few days ago.


Sorry dear...PMT...?

wrote:
wrote:
Was just wondering if anyone had any suggestions on the specifications
and/or brands to look out for when choosing energy saving light bulbs?

Or if anyone has any suggestions of low price retailers of energy
saving light bulbs?

Or any other info about them... Thank you!
snip
And stay well away from cheapie ?1 jobs. Whatevcer you use will save
you the cost of the bulb several times over, so its ok to get 1 of each
of a few brands if youre new to them. Some are excellent, some so-so,
some borderline, and the ?1 halophosphate jobs are dire.

Personally, I quite like the Morrisons 49p philps ones.

I've installed 20 as garage lights, on a wire, along the middle of a
20*4m room.
Works well, and is a hell of a lot brighter and saves energy over the
other choice, which was 2*500W floodlights.

On 3 May 2006 07:20:52 -0700 someone who may be
wrote this:-

Use a search engine, on this group and more widely, instead of
expecting to be spoon-fed. They were discussed a few days ago.

Sorry dear...PMT...?

Nice try. Now get off your fat backside and do some work for
yourself, instead of expecting others to do it for you.

Baby birds sit on their backsides, squawking and expecting mummy or
daddy bird to stuff worms down their throat.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

Ian Stirling wrote:

Personally, I quite like the Morrisons 49p philps ones.

I've installed 20 as garage lights, on a wire, along the middle of a
20*4m room.
Works well, and is a hell of a lot brighter and saves energy over the
other choice, which was 2*500W floodlights.

you've got a 20m garage? That would explain a lot, all the things you
get upto

But I still havent figured out why you were running a several foot long
fl tube at 1uA!


NT

wrote:
Ian Stirling wrote:

Personally, I quite like the Morrisons 49p philps ones.

I've installed 20 as garage lights, on a wire, along the middle of a
20*4m room.
Works well, and is a hell of a lot brighter and saves energy over the
other choice, which was 2*500W floodlights.

you've got a 20m garage? That would explain a lot, all the things you
get upto

Err, typo.
Well, thinko.
It's more like 10.

But I still havent figured out why you were running a several foot long
fl tube at 1uA!

To measure the V/I curve of the discharge.
It was quite pretty in the dark, a moon-like glow.

Ian Stirling wrote:
Personally, I quite like the Morrisons 49p philps ones.
I've installed 20 as garage lights, on a wire, along the middle of a
20*4m room.

That is a good sized garage.


Works well, and is a hell of a lot brighter and saves energy over the
other choice, which was 2*500W floodlights.

How do these things cope in the cold?

In message .com,
writes

wrote:
Yes they are energy saving - from memory the 60W equivalent are around
11W and the 100W equivalent around 16W. In my semi-local store there
are a random mixture of BC & ES on the shelves, just something to be
aware of.

Thanks for the info.

Ditto Morrisons here. 99p each but on a bogof offer. Philips brand. As
near instant start as any CFL lamps I've used, although usual few minute
warm up to full brightness.

--
steve

Chris Bacon wrote:
Ian Stirling wrote:
Personally, I quite like the Morrisons 49p philps ones.
I've installed 20 as garage lights, on a wire, along the middle of a
20*4m room.

That is a good sized garage.

Indeed - I meant 12*4

Works well, and is a hell of a lot brighter and saves energy over the
other choice, which was 2*500W floodlights.

How do these things cope in the cold?

A bit slow to warm up.
But then, because they were so cheap, I've put in about double the
wattage that I really 'need', so to get up to half 'normal' brightness
isn't bad at all.
(based on one test with one inthe fridge)

Ian Stirling wrote:
Chris Bacon wrote:
Ian Stirling wrote:
Personally, I quite like the Morrisons 49p philps ones.
I've installed 20 as garage lights, on a wire, along the middle of a
20*4m room.

That is a good sized garage.

Indeed - I meant 12*4

That's *still* a good-sized garage!


Works well, and is a hell of a lot brighter and saves energy over the
other choice, which was 2*500W floodlights.

How do these things cope in the cold?


A bit slow to warm up.
But then, because they were so cheap, I've put in about double the
wattage that I really 'need', so to get up to half 'normal' brightness
isn't bad at all.

So they will start OK, unlike (seemingly) my 4' or 5' tubes?


(based on one test with one inthe fridge)

That's nice & thorough. What about sub-zero, I wonder?

Chris Bacon wrote:
Ian Stirling wrote:
Chris Bacon wrote:
Ian Stirling wrote:
Personally, I quite like the Morrisons 49p philps ones.
I've installed 20 as garage lights, on a wire, along the middle of a
20*4m room.

snip
That's nice & thorough. What about sub-zero, I wonder?

I've stuck one in the freezer.
Will post in an hour.

Ian Stirling wrote:
Chris Bacon wrote:
Ian Stirling wrote:
Chris Bacon wrote:
Ian Stirling wrote:
Personally, I quite like the Morrisons 49p philps ones.
I've installed 20 as garage lights, on a wire, along the middle of a
20*4m room.

snip
That's nice & thorough. What about sub-zero, I wonder?

I've stuck one in the freezer.
Will post in an hour.

First bulb - 1/2 hour in freezer.
Starts instantly, quite dim for first 10 seconds, then it rapidly warms
up towards normal brightness.
I would estimate that a 20W bulb is equivalent to the initial output of
a 11W bulb at room temperature 15 seconds in.

I've got the blighters all over the house. Only ever had to return one
'cos it didn't work at all. Watch out for some of the real cheapies -
they can produce a bluish light that actually induced nausea.

Great for middle of the night swap-outs if someone in the house is
likely to get a hangover...

Ian Stirling wrote:
Ian Stirling wrote:
Chris Bacon wrote:
What about sub-zero [performance of bulbs], I wonder?
I've stuck one in the freezer.
Will post in an hour.

First bulb - 1/2 hour in freezer.
Starts instantly, quite dim for first 10 seconds, then it rapidly warms
up towards normal brightness.
I would estimate that a 20W bulb is equivalent to the initial output of
a 11W bulb at room temperature 15 seconds in.

That's very useful, thanks for the results!

Chris Bacon wrote:
Ian Stirling wrote:
Ian Stirling wrote:
Chris Bacon wrote:
What about sub-zero [performance of bulbs], I wonder?
I've stuck one in the freezer.
Will post in an hour.

First bulb - 1/2 hour in freezer.
Starts instantly, quite dim for first 10 seconds, then it rapidly warms
up towards normal brightness.
I would estimate that a 20W bulb is equivalent to the initial output of
a 11W bulb at room temperature 15 seconds in.

That's very useful, thanks for the results!

Overnight, the 2 20W bulbs (the philiips ones from morrisons) in the
freezer behave the same. (when taken out and plugged into a socket 5
seconds later)

Ian Stirling wrote:
wrote:
Ian Stirling wrote:

Personally, I quite like the Morrisons 49p philps ones.

I've installed 20 as garage lights, on a wire, along the middle of a
20*4m room.
Works well, and is a hell of a lot brighter and saves energy over the
other choice, which was 2*500W floodlights.

you've got a 20m garage? That would explain a lot, all the things you
get upto

Err, typo.
Well, thinko.
It's more like 10.

But I still havent figured out why you were running a several foot long
fl tube at 1uA!

To measure the V/I curve of the discharge.
It was quite pretty in the dark, a moon-like glow.

ah, I guessed wrong. Thought maybe you were looking to make the worlds
highest efficacy nightlighting system.


NT

wrote:
Yes they are energy saving - from memory the 60W equivalent are around
11W and the 100W equivalent around 16W. In my semi-local store there
are a random mixture of BC & ES on the shelves, just something to be
aware of.

rant
B*ll*cks! 11W is about equivalent to 50W and 16W to about 80W (at most).
These bl**dy equivalents are are lies!

I've yet to find a CFL that can match a 100W conventional bulb in output.

/rant

Tim

"Tim Downie" wrote in message
...
wrote:
Yes they are energy saving - from memory the 60W equivalent are around
11W and the 100W equivalent around 16W. In my semi-local store there
are a random mixture of BC & ES on the shelves, just something to be
aware of.

rant
B*ll*cks! 11W is about equivalent to 50W and 16W to about 80W (at most).
These bl**dy equivalents are are lies!

I've yet to find a CFL that can match a 100W conventional bulb in output.

/rant


There are many types of 100w conventional bulbs.
I am quite sure you could find ones that are dimmer than a CFL if you look
harder.

wrote:
Ian Stirling wrote:
wrote:
snip
But I still havent figured out why you were running a several foot long
fl tube at 1uA!

To measure the V/I curve of the discharge.
It was quite pretty in the dark, a moon-like glow.

ah, I guessed wrong. Thought maybe you were looking to make the worlds
highest efficacy nightlighting system.

Nope - the actual efficiency at that current is fairly poor.
It causes fairly rapid electrode damage too, surprisingly.
And if you heat the electrodes, the efficiency drops to zero, as they
use several watts.

As for nightlights, I have on my todo list (not very high) to add 1
white LED per room, as emergency lighting, triggered when power fails.

The message
from Ian Stirling contains these words:

As for nightlights, I have on my todo list (not very high) to add 1
white LED per room, as emergency lighting, triggered when power fails.

I fancy doing that down the stairs, one on each tread.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

dennis@home wrote:
"Tim Downie" wrote in message
...
wrote:
Yes they are energy saving - from memory the 60W equivalent are
around 11W and the 100W equivalent around 16W. In my semi-local
store there are a random mixture of BC & ES on the shelves, just
something to be aware of.

rant
B*ll*cks! 11W is about equivalent to 50W and 16W to about 80W (at
most). These bl**dy equivalents are are lies!

I've yet to find a CFL that can match a 100W conventional bulb in
output. /rant


There are many types of 100w conventional bulbs.
I am quite sure you could find ones that are dimmer than a CFL if you
look harder.

Hardly make it reasonable for CFL makers to compare output with a dimmer
than normal bulb though, does it?

Tim

Guy King wrote:
The message
from Ian Stirling contains these words:

As for nightlights, I have on my todo list (not very high) to add 1
white LED per room, as emergency lighting, triggered when power fails.

I fancy doing that down the stairs, one on each tread.

I came up with a neat method of doing that.
Into the diagonal bit of the stairs, route out a 10mm*10mm or so groove.
Drill a hole per tread in this, all the way through, aimed down at the
tread, 10mm dia, painted matt black internally.
Place a 3.5mm mono switched socket in this hole, and wire up all the
sockets in series.
Feed with 20mA current limited supply, and wire up LEDs to 3.5mm plugs.
This gets you replacable colour changable lights.
Alas, I have no stairs

Owain wrote:
Ian Stirling wrote:
Into the diagonal bit of the stairs, route out a 10mm*10mm or so groove.
Drill a hole per tread in this, all the way through, aimed down at the
tread, 10mm dia, painted matt black internally.
Place a 3.5mm mono switched socket in this hole, and wire up all the
sockets in series.
molex connectors would probably be cheaper and easier than 3.5mm plugs -
see Big Clive's LED charm bracelet.

But really fiddly to put in.
The advantage of 3.5mm plugs is that they are by nature round, and hard
to get the wrong way round down a hole.

Alas, I have no stairs

By design, or did the feck-up fairy get hold of the plans between the
architect and the builder?

One floor level throughout.

Ian Stirling wrote:
wrote:
Ian Stirling wrote:
wrote:
snip
But I still havent figured out why you were running a several foot long
fl tube at 1uA!

To measure the V/I curve of the discharge.
It was quite pretty in the dark, a moon-like glow.

ah, I guessed wrong. Thought maybe you were looking to make the worlds
highest efficacy nightlighting system.

Nope - the actual efficiency at that current is fairly poor.
It causes fairly rapid electrode damage too, surprisingly.
And if you heat the electrodes, the efficiency drops to zero, as they
use several watts.

As for nightlights, I have on my todo list (not very high) to add 1
white LED per room, as emergency lighting, triggered when power fails.

One LED wont get you very far, and if you want a few, RG&B is cheaper,
higher efficacy, and no degradation.

The 3.5mm plugs are an interesting idea. I've been wondering about
putting monochrome LEDs in here.


NT

wrote:
Ian Stirling wrote:
wrote:
Ian Stirling wrote:
wrote:
snip
But I still havent figured out why you were running a several foot long
fl tube at 1uA!

To measure the V/I curve of the discharge.
It was quite pretty in the dark, a moon-like glow.

ah, I guessed wrong. Thought maybe you were looking to make the worlds
highest efficacy nightlighting system.

Nope - the actual efficiency at that current is fairly poor.
It causes fairly rapid electrode damage too, surprisingly.
And if you heat the electrodes, the efficiency drops to zero, as they
use several watts.

As for nightlights, I have on my todo list (not very high) to add 1
white LED per room, as emergency lighting, triggered when power fails.

One LED wont get you very far, and if you want a few, RG&B is cheaper,
higher efficacy, and no degradation.

One LED is just fine, for true emergencies, so you don't fall over
stuff.
And with a total household draw of 2W or so, can easily be supplied from
solar.

Ian Stirling wrote:
wrote:
Ian Stirling wrote:

As for nightlights, I have on my todo list (not very high) to add 1
white LED per room, as emergency lighting, triggered when power fails.

One LED wont get you very far, and if you want a few, RG&B is cheaper,
higher efficacy, and no degradation.

One LED is just fine, for true emergencies, so you don't fall over
stuff.
And with a total household draw of 2W or so, can easily be supplied from
solar.

oic, _those_ LEDs. Not cheap. I would have thought you could do
fluorescent for much less. I've also used VFD for nighlighting before.


NT