I am having trouble identifying the correct stain for a new window, I
would say it's fairly close to Ronseal's antique pine below

http://www.ronseal.com/prodshow.asp?...odID=38&gID=32

However, it appears from Ronseal's latest leaflet and evident from the
small tin I have bought that they have changed their antique pine to a
much paler/yellower colour (fortunately the purpose of this post they
have not updated their website yet).

The windows have a slight orangey tinge in direct sunlight/artificial
light. I did match the windows inside to a a piece of pine I stained
with golden cedar but have since discovered after staining the new
hardwood windows that this is way to orangey.

Is anyone familiar with the colours being using in the build trade at
the moment which resemble the antique pine above.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

new to diy wrote:
I am having trouble identifying the correct stain for a new window, I
would say it's fairly close to Ronseal's antique pine below

http://www.ronseal.com/prodshow.asp?...odID=38&gID=32

I would not call that a stain, but a type of translucent
colored paint.

However, it appears from Ronseal's latest leaflet and evident from the
small tin I have bought that they have changed their antique pine to a
much paler/yellower colour (fortunately the purpose of this post they
have not updated their website yet).

The windows have a slight orangey tinge in direct sunlight/artificial
light. I did match the windows inside to a a piece of pine I stained
with golden cedar but have since discovered after staining the new
hardwood windows that this is way to orangey.

Is anyone familiar with the colours being using in the build trade at
the moment which resemble the antique pine above.

If you want to use it, ask an oik at B&Q.

new to diy wrote:
I am having trouble identifying the correct stain for a new window, I
would say it's fairly close to Ronseal's antique pine below

http://www.ronseal.com/prodshow.asp?...odID=38&gID=32

However, it appears from Ronseal's latest leaflet and evident from the
small tin I have bought that they have changed their antique pine to a
much paler/yellower colour (fortunately the purpose of this post they
have not updated their website yet).

The windows have a slight orangey tinge in direct sunlight/artificial
light. I did match the windows inside to a a piece of pine I stained
with golden cedar but have since discovered after staining the new
hardwood windows that this is way to orangey.

Is anyone familiar with the colours being using in the build trade at
the moment which resemble the antique pine above.


On my monitor I'd say you need a thinned down version of the teak shade
to avoid the orange.
External stains are usually based on iron oxides which come in yellow,
red, and black. Getting a decent brown from such a limited palette is
impossible.

Stuart, I think you may be on to something. Looking at the interior of
my existing windows, I am beginning to think the orangey/warm
appearance may be a result of the yellowish hardwood beneath, as there
is only a light coat on stain on the interior. I guess I need to try
some stains out on some hardwood (instead of the pine I have been
using), where could I get some hardwood the same as what casement
windows come in, any idea what wood this is? Thanks again.

Most trade people use the Sikkens range as this is far more durable.

If you get hold of the Sikkens colour charts, you can call their help desk
and they will send you free match pot sized samples to identify the colour
you want.

From your description a light oak stain would probably be what you are
after. Remember all wood stains (and the wood itself) darkens with time, if
you start off dark it many end up too dark.

Rick

"new to diy" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am having trouble identifying the correct stain for a new window, I
would say it's fairly close to Ronseal's antique pine below

http://www.ronseal.com/prodshow.asp?...odID=38&gID=32

However, it appears from Ronseal's latest leaflet and evident from the
small tin I have bought that they have changed their antique pine to a
much paler/yellower colour (fortunately the purpose of this post they
have not updated their website yet).

The windows have a slight orangey tinge in direct sunlight/artificial
light. I did match the windows inside to a a piece of pine I stained
with golden cedar but have since discovered after staining the new
hardwood windows that this is way to orangey.

Is anyone familiar with the colours being using in the build trade at
the moment which resemble the antique pine above.

Excellent, thanks Rick, that's what I wanted to find out, what the
trade use.

new to diy wrote:
Stuart, I think you may be on to something. Looking at the interior of
my existing windows, I am beginning to think the orangey/warm
appearance may be a result of the yellowish hardwood beneath, as there
is only a light coat on stain on the interior. I guess I need to try
some stains out on some hardwood (instead of the pine I have been
using), where could I get some hardwood the same as what casement
windows come in, any idea what wood this is? Thanks again.


Turning into a major project by the sound of it:-) Hardwood isn't cheap,
and you'll drive yourself mad trying to match colours and timbers at the
same time.
I'd go for the coldest of the paler colours (which looks like the teak
to me) and tosh it on to everything you want to have a similar look. As
I say, there are no browns in this area, only oranges, dark oranges, and
dirty black oranges.

"new to diy" wrote in message
ups.com...
Excellent, thanks Rick, that's what I wanted to find out, what the
trade use.


Sikkens products are very good ... I buy mine form Local Crown Decorating
Centre ... or Jewsons.

Sikkens technical help line is excellent.

Rick

On 14 Jan 2006 06:22:58 -0800, "new to diy"
wrote:

Excellent, thanks Rick, that's what I wanted to find out, what the
trade use.

Seconded for Sikkens. I've had good results using Sikkens Cetol HLS
Teak on everything from decking to shelves.

A couple of things that I found:

a) If using it out of the tin the bit at the bottom can get a bit
thicker and so give a darker coat. So it may be best to spoon out what
you need into another tin to minimise this.

b) Any rough areas or fuzz on the wood will attract more pigment and
so look more noticable. So it's best to sand everything really smooth,
or even scrape the wood carefully with a razor sharp scraper (the
scraper will remove sanding fuzz quite easily).


To get a good match I'd try varying the number of coats, using
different coats of different colours, or even mixing small samples of
different colours together. Lots of samples on similar wood would be
the way to go.

cheers,
Pete.