Just trying to hang a door and found that the frame is 9mm wider at the
top than the bottom. Is it best to adjust the door or frame and how ?
I'm not very good with planing so would prefer to avoid having to trim
the latch side of the door. Then again I suppose I must keep the hinge
side absolutely straight so may have no choice !
Any ideas ?
Thanks

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Stephen wrote:

Just trying to hang a door and found that the frame is 9mm wider at
the top than the bottom. Is it best to adjust the door or frame and
how ? I'm not very good with planing so would prefer to avoid having
to trim the latch side of the door. Then again I suppose I must keep
the hinge side absolutely straight so may have no choice !
Any ideas ?
Thanks

Assuming the door is big enough for the frame, I would not touch the frame
but would trim the door. I would make the door only 5mm wider at the top
than at the bottom - on the basis that you can vary the door to frame gap by
a couple of mm each side between top and bottom without it looking untoward.
You need to have the top of the door parallel with the top of the frame, and
the bottom parallel with the floor. You will have to determine exactly where
the frame is out of square in order to work out which bits of door to
attack. I would carefully mark the bits of door to be removed, and use a
power plane for the job. Get the door fitting the frame nicely *before*
fitting any of the door furniture.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
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"Stephen" wrote in message
...
Just trying to hang a door and found that the frame is 9mm wider at the
top than the bottom. Is it best to adjust the door or frame and how ? I'm
not very good with planing so would prefer to avoid having to trim the
latch side of the door. Then again I suppose I must keep the hinge side
absolutely straight so may have no choice !
Any ideas ?
Thanks

Check very carefully to find out *which* frame upright is plumb, knowing
that the frame is somewhat tapered - since hinges should be placed in
recesses made into a truly vertical frameside (checked in two planes), but -
in your case -any error must be compensated for with packing pieces of
differing thicknesses.
You may find to your surprise that the latch side has less than 7mm gap at
the top when finished.
Jim

Stephen wrote:
Just trying to hang a door and found that the frame is 9mm wider at the
top than the bottom. Any ideas ?

The frame has come loose and the packers have dropped. Most door
casings are some 1/2" narower than the opening they fit into.

Take the door of and remove the archtraves on one side. Extractt he
packers and refit the frame. You may get away without having to do
anything to the original fixings if you have a clean gap to bang the
leg back into.

You'll need to redrill though or V-nail if you have a timber stud to
fix to.

And you will want a new door.

Stephen wrote:
Just trying to hang a door and found that the frame is 9mm wider at the
top than the bottom. Is it best to adjust the door or frame and how ?
I'm not very good with planing so would prefer to avoid having to trim
the latch side of the door. Then again I suppose I must keep the hinge
side absolutely straight so may have no choice !
Any ideas ?
Thanks


If it's a new door, I'd adjust the frame. IMO better to impose
squareness on the structure rather than modify new things to follow the
contours of an old house.
If you position the door and stick a spirit level on the top, it should
be obvious where your adjustments need to be made.
If you're not too good with the plane, just don't go down that other
road.....:-)