Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
![]() |
|
Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
I have a new wood-core external door that was just put in (new
doorframe as well) - it has metal sheeting over the wood and a window in the middle. I am told that the white color on the door is primer, not paint, and that I must paint the door to protect it from the elements. What type of paint do I use? I would like to paint it in-place. Latex? I have no docs left that came w/ the door - the instsallers left nothing - can I assume it has latex primer on it? Thanks. bp |
#2
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
You apparently have a factory primed door. It could be an alkyd or acrylic
prime coat, but the kind doesn't matter vs what paint you chose as a finish coat. We used exterior acrylic water based paint over our metal clad door, which was also pre-primed. Fine sandpaper lightly first, dust off, clean and rinse thoroughly, dry, then paint. We used semi gloss on it, as it may be easier to keep clean vs flat or satin. We left the door slightly ajar for several days so the rim and edge of the door would dry, and not stick once it is closed against the weatherstripping and jamb. What type of paint do I use? I would like to paint it in-place. Latex? I have no docs left that came w/ the door - the instsallers left nothing - can I assume it has latex primer on it? |
#3
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
"Roger" wrote in message news:wOBTb.162817$Rc4.1269699@attbi_s54...
You apparently have a factory primed door. It could be an alkyd or acrylic prime coat, but the kind doesn't matter vs what paint you chose as a finish coat. We used exterior acrylic water based paint over our metal clad door, which was also pre-primed. Fine sandpaper lightly first, dust off, clean and rinse thoroughly, dry, then paint. We used semi gloss on it, as it may be easier to keep clean vs flat or satin. We left the door slightly ajar for several days so the rim and edge of the door would dry, and not stick once it is closed against the weatherstripping and jamb. It is 15 degrees F here at night - could not leave door open long... Is it too cold to paint, in general? I _do_ want to paint it in-place, though. The guy who put it in told me it is necessary to paint or it will expand and not close (or open) - how long can I wait to paint it? There appears to be primer over the exposed wood at the sides (metal sheet on the main faces). He tells me to paint 5 sides - not 6 -- not the bottom as it won't properly dry in his experience what with the weatherstripping @ bottom, rubber. Any opinions appreciated. Thanks. How long can I wait? (Till spring?) bp |
#4
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Blake Patterson wrote:
It is 15 degrees F here at night - could not leave door open long... Is it too cold to paint, in general? I _do_ want to paint it in-place, though. The guy who put it in told me it is necessary to paint or it will expand and not close (or open) - how long can I wait to paint it? There appears to be primer over the exposed wood at the sides (metal sheet on the main faces). He tells me to paint 5 sides - not 6 -- not the bottom as it won't properly dry in his experience what with the weatherstripping @ bottom, rubber. Any opinions appreciated. Thanks. How long can I wait? (Till spring?) You need to paint it. They will warp. But you may be able to leave it until the weather is nicer. Ours were installed last February and I was told I could leave it. Unfortunately they got forgotten and they are now warped. I don't know when that happened, whether it was last winter or this winter. Maybe they were ok in the spring, or maybe I just didn't notice the warping until I did my fall check for air leaks. With doors all the literature I've seen says paint all 6 sides to prevent warping. RS |
#5
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
How cold is too cold to paint?
The door opens into the room, I guess I could crank the heat and there's not a whole lot of wind because the door is under a kitchen overhang (basement walkout door). But is it unwise to paint like this when it's 35-40 degrees outside? Would leave door open into house all day. Thanks. bp Rob S wrote in message ... Blake Patterson wrote: It is 15 degrees F here at night - could not leave door open long... Is it too cold to paint, in general? I _do_ want to paint it in-place, though. The guy who put it in told me it is necessary to paint or it will expand and not close (or open) - how long can I wait to paint it? There appears to be primer over the exposed wood at the sides (metal sheet on the main faces). He tells me to paint 5 sides - not 6 -- not the bottom as it won't properly dry in his experience what with the weatherstripping @ bottom, rubber. Any opinions appreciated. Thanks. How long can I wait? (Till spring?) You need to paint it. They will warp. But you may be able to leave it until the weather is nicer. Ours were installed last February and I was told I could leave it. Unfortunately they got forgotten and they are now warped. I don't know when that happened, whether it was last winter or this winter. Maybe they were ok in the spring, or maybe I just didn't notice the warping until I did my fall check for air leaks. With doors all the literature I've seen says paint all 6 sides to prevent warping. RS |
#6
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Blake Patterson wrote:
It is 15 degrees F here at night - could not leave door open long... Is it too cold to paint, in general? I _do_ want to paint it in-place, though. The guy who put it in told me it is necessary to paint or it will expand and not close (or open) - how long can I wait to paint it? There appears to be primer over the exposed wood at the sides (metal sheet on the main faces). He tells me to paint 5 sides - not 6 -- not the bottom as it won't properly dry in his experience what with the weatherstripping @ bottom, rubber. Any opinions appreciated. Thanks. How long can I wait? (Till spring?) You need to paint it. They will warp. But you may be able to leave it until the weather is nicer. Ours were installed last February and I was told I could leave it. Unfortunately they got forgotten and they are now warped. I don't know when that happened, whether it was last winter or this winter. Maybe they were ok in the spring, or maybe I just didn't notice the warping until I did my fall check for air leaks. With doors all the literature I've seen says paint all 6 sides to prevent warping. RS |
#7
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
"Roger" wrote in message news:wOBTb.162817$Rc4.1269699@attbi_s54...
You apparently have a factory primed door. It could be an alkyd or acrylic prime coat, but the kind doesn't matter vs what paint you chose as a finish coat. We used exterior acrylic water based paint over our metal clad door, which was also pre-primed. Fine sandpaper lightly first, dust off, clean and rinse thoroughly, dry, then paint. We used semi gloss on it, as it may be easier to keep clean vs flat or satin. We left the door slightly ajar for several days so the rim and edge of the door would dry, and not stick once it is closed against the weatherstripping and jamb. It is 15 degrees F here at night - could not leave door open long... Is it too cold to paint, in general? I _do_ want to paint it in-place, though. The guy who put it in told me it is necessary to paint or it will expand and not close (or open) - how long can I wait to paint it? There appears to be primer over the exposed wood at the sides (metal sheet on the main faces). He tells me to paint 5 sides - not 6 -- not the bottom as it won't properly dry in his experience what with the weatherstripping @ bottom, rubber. Any opinions appreciated. Thanks. How long can I wait? (Till spring?) bp |
#8
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
You apparently have a factory primed door. It could be an alkyd or acrylic
prime coat, but the kind doesn't matter vs what paint you chose as a finish coat. We used exterior acrylic water based paint over our metal clad door, which was also pre-primed. Fine sandpaper lightly first, dust off, clean and rinse thoroughly, dry, then paint. We used semi gloss on it, as it may be easier to keep clean vs flat or satin. We left the door slightly ajar for several days so the rim and edge of the door would dry, and not stick once it is closed against the weatherstripping and jamb. What type of paint do I use? I would like to paint it in-place. Latex? I have no docs left that came w/ the door - the instsallers left nothing - can I assume it has latex primer on it? |
#9
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() Blake Patterson wrote: I have a new wood-core external door that was just put in (new doorframe as well) - it has metal sheeting over the wood and a window in the middle. I am told that the white color on the door is primer, not paint, and that I must paint the door to protect it from the elements. What type of paint do I use? I would like to paint it in-place. Latex? I have no docs left that came w/ the door - the instsallers left nothing - can I assume it has latex primer on it? Thanks. bp I think the best paint is a quick dry alkyd enamel since you will be painting mostly metal. This is often sold as 4 hour enamel. You really need to remove the door from the frame to paint it. But if you can't, so be it; it will be just a bit more difficut to paint the edges but you will be able to paint all of it at one sitting. Tape heavy plastic (4 mil) to the outside part of the frame so that it is reasonably tight. If you have to go in and out the door, leave a flap that you can tape and untape. Next in the center of the frame opening put an an expanding bar (like they use in bath tub/shower combination or just cut a 2x4 to wedge in and hold a blanket for insulation. Now set up a small heater to blow on the door and warm it up 60-70 degrees. When it reaches that temperature, but no more than room temp, you can start painting. Since everything is essentially at room temperature the drying time should be about what the can states but I would turn the small heater on within 1/2 hour after you finish painting. If you can enclose the area around the door and heat it to 80-85 degrees that would be great. In any case, you should be able to close the door with no sticking in less than 8 hours. BTW, don't do the painting when it is raining or snowing; wait for a dry day. If you decide to use a latex paint, which probably won't give you as smooth a finish, make sure that it has a high blocking (no stick to other painted parts) rating. |
#10
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
One addition. If you use an alkyd paint, buy some Japan
drier (mine is ?Gillepies?) and add a teaspoon or so per pint to increase the drying rate. "George E. Cawthon" wrote: Blake Patterson wrote: I have a new wood-core external door that was just put in (new doorframe as well) - it has metal sheeting over the wood and a window in the middle. I am told that the white color on the door is primer, not paint, and that I must paint the door to protect it from the elements. What type of paint do I use? I would like to paint it in-place. Latex? I have no docs left that came w/ the door - the instsallers left nothing - can I assume it has latex primer on it? Thanks. bp I think the best paint is a quick dry alkyd enamel since you will be painting mostly metal. This is often sold as 4 hour enamel. You really need to remove the door from the frame to paint it. But if you can't, so be it; it will be just a bit more difficut to paint the edges but you will be able to paint all of it at one sitting. Tape heavy plastic (4 mil) to the outside part of the frame so that it is reasonably tight. If you have to go in and out the door, leave a flap that you can tape and untape. Next in the center of the frame opening put an an expanding bar (like they use in bath tub/shower combination or just cut a 2x4 to wedge in and hold a blanket for insulation. Now set up a small heater to blow on the door and warm it up 60-70 degrees. When it reaches that temperature, but no more than room temp, you can start painting. Since everything is essentially at room temperature the drying time should be about what the can states but I would turn the small heater on within 1/2 hour after you finish painting. If you can enclose the area around the door and heat it to 80-85 degrees that would be great. In any case, you should be able to close the door with no sticking in less than 8 hours. BTW, don't do the painting when it is raining or snowing; wait for a dry day. If you decide to use a latex paint, which probably won't give you as smooth a finish, make sure that it has a high blocking (no stick to other painted parts) rating. |
#11
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Is one coat of the alkyd paint enough? As I said, the door has been
factory primed and it is a massive headache to take the door off (which I will do) and paint it inside the house, elsewhere, on a tarp. (I cannot get that room warm enough, soon, to paint properly with door open.) Will one coat prevent warping? Thanks. bp "George E. Cawthon" wrote in message ... One addition. If you use an alkyd paint, buy some Japan drier (mine is ?Gillepies?) and add a teaspoon or so per pint to increase the drying rate. "George E. Cawthon" wrote: Blake Patterson wrote: I have a new wood-core external door that was just put in (new doorframe as well) - it has metal sheeting over the wood and a window in the middle. I am told that the white color on the door is primer, not paint, and that I must paint the door to protect it from the elements. What type of paint do I use? I would like to paint it in-place. Latex? I have no docs left that came w/ the door - the instsallers left nothing - can I assume it has latex primer on it? Thanks. bp I think the best paint is a quick dry alkyd enamel since you will be painting mostly metal. This is often sold as 4 hour enamel. You really need to remove the door from the frame to paint it. But if you can't, so be it; it will be just a bit more difficut to paint the edges but you will be able to paint all of it at one sitting. Tape heavy plastic (4 mil) to the outside part of the frame so that it is reasonably tight. If you have to go in and out the door, leave a flap that you can tape and untape. Next in the center of the frame opening put an an expanding bar (like they use in bath tub/shower combination or just cut a 2x4 to wedge in and hold a blanket for insulation. Now set up a small heater to blow on the door and warm it up 60-70 degrees. When it reaches that temperature, but no more than room temp, you can start painting. Since everything is essentially at room temperature the drying time should be about what the can states but I would turn the small heater on within 1/2 hour after you finish painting. If you can enclose the area around the door and heat it to 80-85 degrees that would be great. In any case, you should be able to close the door with no sticking in less than 8 hours. BTW, don't do the painting when it is raining or snowing; wait for a dry day. If you decide to use a latex paint, which probably won't give you as smooth a finish, make sure that it has a high blocking (no stick to other painted parts) rating. |
#12
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Ok, leave the door mounted on the frame. Sure you can get
the room warm, do like I said, open the door and seal the opening with plastic. You do have another door to go in out don't you? Or, get a big piece of cardboard (from a big box) or a piece of plywood and cut it to fit the opening; mountain a handle on it so you can easily open and close it. Yes, one coat is plenty, at least through the winter. When it gets warm I would sand lightly and add another coat of alkyd. That ought to last you a long time. My house was built in 1976 and has a metal door. I have painted the front door (faces south) only twice and put on only coat on it each time. The back door (faces north) and I haven't seen a need to repaint, but last year somebody put a stain on it that will not wash off, so I will paint it this coming summer. Blake Patterson wrote: Is one coat of the alkyd paint enough? As I said, the door has been factory primed and it is a massive headache to take the door off (which I will do) and paint it inside the house, elsewhere, on a tarp. (I cannot get that room warm enough, soon, to paint properly with door open.) Will one coat prevent warping? Thanks. bp "George E. Cawthon" wrote in message ... One addition. If you use an alkyd paint, buy some Japan drier (mine is ?Gillepies?) and add a teaspoon or so per pint to increase the drying rate. "George E. Cawthon" wrote: Blake Patterson wrote: I have a new wood-core external door that was just put in (new doorframe as well) - it has metal sheeting over the wood and a window in the middle. I am told that the white color on the door is primer, not paint, and that I must paint the door to protect it from the elements. What type of paint do I use? I would like to paint it in-place. Latex? I have no docs left that came w/ the door - the instsallers left nothing - can I assume it has latex primer on it? Thanks. bp I think the best paint is a quick dry alkyd enamel since you will be painting mostly metal. This is often sold as 4 hour enamel. You really need to remove the door from the frame to paint it. But if you can't, so be it; it will be just a bit more difficut to paint the edges but you will be able to paint all of it at one sitting. Tape heavy plastic (4 mil) to the outside part of the frame so that it is reasonably tight. If you have to go in and out the door, leave a flap that you can tape and untape. Next in the center of the frame opening put an an expanding bar (like they use in bath tub/shower combination or just cut a 2x4 to wedge in and hold a blanket for insulation. Now set up a small heater to blow on the door and warm it up 60-70 degrees. When it reaches that temperature, but no more than room temp, you can start painting. Since everything is essentially at room temperature the drying time should be about what the can states but I would turn the small heater on within 1/2 hour after you finish painting. If you can enclose the area around the door and heat it to 80-85 degrees that would be great. In any case, you should be able to close the door with no sticking in less than 8 hours. BTW, don't do the painting when it is raining or snowing; wait for a dry day. If you decide to use a latex paint, which probably won't give you as smooth a finish, make sure that it has a high blocking (no stick to other painted parts) rating. |
#13
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() "Blake Patterson" wrote in message I have a new wood-core external door that was just put in (new doorframe as well) - it has metal sheeting over the wood and a window in the middle. I am told that the white color on the door is primer, not paint, and that I must paint the door to protect it from the elements. What type of paint do I use? I would like to paint it in-place. Latex? I have no docs left that came w/ the door - the instsallers left nothing - can I assume it has latex primer on it? These links should give you all the professional information you need. http://www.peasedoors.com/pease_help..._and_donts.pdf http://www.peasedoors.com/pease_helpline/hl_pg9.pdf |
#14
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
These links should give you all the professional information you need.
http://www.peasedoors.com/pease_help..._and_donts.pdf http://www.peasedoors.com/pease_helpline/hl_pg9.pdf The PDF indicates a need to paint within 40 days. Is this quick enough? I've had it up for 4 days and would like to wait until _next_ weekend to paint. ?? Danger of warping right now? Thanks. bp |
#15
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() "Blake Patterson" wrote in message The PDF indicates a need to paint within 40 days. Is this quick enough? I've had it up for 4 days and would like to wait until _next_ weekend to paint. ?? Danger of warping right now? Thanks. Blake, You worry too much ![]() gone back for further work a couple years later and the door still wasn't painted. By _no_ means do I condone waiting this long, just showing as an example the door won't fall off the hinges if you wait. If the door is protected under an entry roof, I would wait till spring. If the door is subject to direct weather elements, paint when the weather & temperature permits. |
#16
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Blake,
You worry too much ![]() gone back for further work a couple years later and the door still wasn't painted. By _no_ means do I condone waiting this long, just showing as an example the door won't fall off the hinges if you wait. If the door is protected under an entry roof, I would wait till spring. If the door is subject to direct weather elements, paint when the weather & temperature permits. My entire kitchen hangs out over the door - something like 8' of overhang protecting it. So I guess I will wait for warmer weather... It was expensive tho - $1,000 for install + custom door (It's a short room - 6'4" ceiling, and a large glass window in door). Sound ok? Thanks. bp |
#17
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() "Blake Patterson" wrote in message My entire kitchen hangs out over the door - something like 8' of overhang protecting it. So I guess I will wait for warmer weather... It was expensive tho - $1,000 for install + custom door (It's a short room - 6'4" ceiling, and a large glass window in door). Sound ok? Thanks. I think you should be fine with it protected like it is. No use in having a stroke, now rest easy until you can do the job right! |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
1200 degree High heat spray paint stinks, literally | Metalworking | |||
Answer To Emulsion Paint Removal | UK diy | |||
indoor walls: spray paint or roll paint with rollers? | Home Repair | |||
exterior paint adhering or not? | Home Repair |