I need to SOUND insulate the box a big (100KVA) generator is in,
and was considering using a wire mesh frame to support normal
rockwool, but then thought of the 'insulation batts' used in new build
cavity walls.

Would these be rigid enough and hold together if just glued on using a
'no more nails' type goo?

AWEM

"Andrew Mawson" wrote in message
...

I need to SOUND insulate the box a big (100KVA) generator is in,
and was considering using a wire mesh frame to support normal
rockwool, but then thought of the 'insulation batts' used in new build
cavity walls.

Would these be rigid enough and hold together if just glued on using a
'no more nails' type goo?

Use Warmcell. You can build a frame, mix it, apply it and board up. It also
makes the frame air-tightish. Making something air-tight reduces sound a
hell of a lot.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "Andrew Mawson"
saying something like:

I need to SOUND insulate the box a big (100KVA) generator is in,
and was considering using a wire mesh frame to support normal
rockwool, but then thought of the 'insulation batts' used in new build
cavity walls.

Would these be rigid enough and hold together if just glued on using a
'no more nails' type goo?

Go out to the nearest Aggreko depot and have a look at how they
construct their soundproof gensets. There's quite a bit to it, not just
sticking stuff on the walls.
--
Dave
GS850x2 SE6a
I demand nothing of you except that you amuse me.

Andrew Mawson said the following on 20/11/2005 17:46:
I need to SOUND insulate the box a big (100KVA) generator is in,
and was considering using a wire mesh frame to support normal
rockwool, but then thought of the 'insulation batts' used in new build
cavity walls.

Would these be rigid enough and hold together if just glued on using a
'no more nails' type goo?

AWEM



AIUI (don't have one handy to inspect closely!) super silent generators
generally have the following features: -

1. The engine compartment is air tight (or very nearly so).

2. The panels for the engine compartment have sound insulation to both
insulate and dampen vibrations in the panels.

3. All the doors and access panels have rubber seals (both to help with
the airtighness and to stop vibrations).

4. An extensively baffled exhaust system.

5. The engine is mounted on rubber shock absorbers (kind of obvious!).

The radiator and air intake obviously have to be outside the airtight
engine compartment.

Don't forget to consider the fire risk of additional insulation.

Google for: car soundproofing


Have fun!

"Rumble" .@. wrote in message
.. .
Andrew Mawson said the following on 20/11/2005 17:46:
I need to SOUND insulate the box a big (100KVA) generator is in,
and was considering using a wire mesh frame to support normal
rockwool, but then thought of the 'insulation batts' used in new build
cavity walls.

Would these be rigid enough and hold together if just glued on using a
'no more nails' type goo?

AWEM



AIUI (don't have one handy to inspect closely!) super silent generators
generally have the following features: -

1. The engine compartment is air tight (or very nearly so).

2. The panels for the engine compartment have sound insulation to both
insulate and dampen vibrations in the panels.

3. All the doors and access panels have rubber seals (both to help with
the airtighness and to stop vibrations).

4. An extensively baffled exhaust system.

5. The engine is mounted on rubber shock absorbers (kind of obvious!).

The radiator and air intake obviously have to be outside the airtight
engine compartment.

Don't forget to consider the fire risk of additional insulation.

Insulation doesn't easily catch fire.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "Doctor Drivel"
saying something like:

Don't forget to consider the fire risk of additional insulation.

Insulation doesn't easily catch fire.

You have to balance the needs of the airflow for cooling and combustion
and the necessity of sound insulation.

Combustion air and exhaust are ducted in and out, and the radiator can
be mounted externally.
Even so, the temperature build-up inside a closed insulated container
with a genset in it can be dramatic. Add to that the possibility of a
fractured fuel line spraying fuel over insulation material.
There's always a chance some of the insulation material might come loose
and fall on a hot turbo casing, for example.

Insulation might not easily catch fire, but soak it in diesel and apply
an ignition source.
--
Dave
GS850x2 SE6a
I demand nothing of you except that you amuse me.

"Grimly Curmudgeon" wrote in
message ...
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when
the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "Doctor Drivel"

saying something like:

Don't forget to consider the fire risk of additional insulation.

Insulation doesn't easily catch fire.

You have to balance the needs of the airflow for cooling and
combustion
and the necessity of sound insulation.

Combustion air and exhaust are ducted in and out, and the radiator
can
be mounted externally.
Even so, the temperature build-up inside a closed insulated
container
with a genset in it can be dramatic. Add to that the possibility of
a
fractured fuel line spraying fuel over insulation material.
There's always a chance some of the insulation material might come
loose
and fall on a hot turbo casing, for example.

Insulation might not easily catch fire, but soak it in diesel and
apply
an ignition source.
--
Dave
GS850x2 SE6a
I demand nothing of you except that you amuse me.

Dave,

For all the reasons you mention I have 'probably' settled on using bog
standard 100mm rockwool retained by a custom made cage of wire
meshing. Both the radiator outward flowing air and the combustion air
are currently ducted but the input air to the radiator is drawn from
the totally open bottom of the trailer chassis. I will probably
enclose the bottom but leaving a largish entry port at the alternator
end so that cool air is available for its cooling as well as the
radiator. Currently kicking ideas arround about what to do under the
engine sump - I'll probably enclose it in sheet steel with rockwool
above, but incorporate a drip tray with a funnel shape leading to a
drain so any oil drips and fuel leaks don't accumulate in the
enclosure.

AWEM

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "Andrew Mawson"
saying something like:

For all the reasons you mention I have 'probably' settled on using bog
standard 100mm rockwool retained by a custom made cage of wire
meshing. Both the radiator outward flowing air and the combustion air
are currently ducted but the input air to the radiator is drawn from
the totally open bottom of the trailer chassis. I will probably
enclose the bottom but leaving a largish entry port at the alternator
end so that cool air is available for its cooling as well as the
radiator. Currently kicking ideas arround about what to do under the
engine sump - I'll probably enclose it in sheet steel with rockwool
above, but incorporate a drip tray with a funnel shape leading to a
drain so any oil drips and fuel leaks don't accumulate in the
enclosure.

It's certainly going in the right direction; what size is the enclosure
and what's it made of?

As I said, have a gander at how Aggreko and others do it; no point in
re-inventing the wheel.
--
Dave
GS850x2 SE6a
I demand nothing of you except that you amuse me.

"Grimly Curmudgeon" wrote in
message ...
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when
the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "Andrew Mawson"
saying something like:

For all the reasons you mention I have 'probably' settled on using
bog
standard 100mm rockwool retained by a custom made cage of wire
meshing. Both the radiator outward flowing air and the combustion
air
are currently ducted but the input air to the radiator is drawn
from
the totally open bottom of the trailer chassis. I will probably
enclose the bottom but leaving a largish entry port at the
alternator
end so that cool air is available for its cooling as well as the
radiator. Currently kicking ideas arround about what to do under
the
engine sump - I'll probably enclose it in sheet steel with rockwool
above, but incorporate a drip tray with a funnel shape leading to a
drain so any oil drips and fuel leaks don't accumulate in the
enclosure.

It's certainly going in the right direction; what size is the
enclosure
and what's it made of?

As I said, have a gander at how Aggreko and others do it; no point
in
re-inventing the wheel.
--
Dave
GS850x2 SE6a
I demand nothing of you except that you amuse me.

Dave,

This is a twin axle trailer mounted Aggreko 100KVA set made towards
the end of the 1980's. Its is a steel box about 2.6m long, 1m wide and
1.3m high. The engine / alternator are close coulpled and mounted
directly on the chassis rails which are open to the world below. The
only concession to noise originally was 'anti drumming' tar paper 3mm
thick on the panels inner surfaces ! I intend to line the panels with
100mm rockwool retained by I'm not quite sure what !

Todays problem is the engine has started running far too fast. It's a
SIMMS injector pump, with the 'stop lever' controlled by solenoid, and
the throttle fixed by stops and it suddendly started running about 15%
fast, so if anyone knows about SIMMS pumps gen would be appreciated.

AWEM