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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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I've noticed two different types of these; some are apparently made of
brass and have a completely rounded external profile, whereas others seem to be copper, and have flat chamfers at either end. Can anyone tell me the significance of the two species, and are they interchangeable in different compression fittings? Thanks David |
#2
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I've noticed two different types of these; some are apparently made of
brass and have a completely rounded external profile, whereas others seem to be copper, and have flat chamfers at either end. Can anyone tell me the significance of the two species, and are they interchangeable in different compression fittings? I wondered about that. A lot of the fittings from the plumbers merchant come with copper ones for some reason, but you can only buy copper ones in large quantities and the sheds only seem to have brass ones. Brass are harder, and apparently give more support to the pipes. Copper are softer, and seem to require less tightening. I'm sure both should work OK. Anyone else enlighten us on this ? Simon. |
#3
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![]() wrote in message oups.com... I've noticed two different types of these; some are apparently made of brass and have a completely rounded external profile, whereas others seem to be copper, and have flat chamfers at either end. Can anyone tell me the significance of the two species, and are they interchangeable in different compression fittings? I wondered about that. A lot of the fittings from the plumbers merchant come with copper ones for some reason, but you can only buy copper ones in large quantities and the sheds only seem to have brass ones. Brass are harder, and apparently give more support to the pipes. Copper are softer, and seem to require less tightening. I'm sure both should work OK. I think copper ones are ok on plastic (with the insert) but not brass these are too hard |
#4
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Lobster wrote:
I've noticed two different types of these; some are apparently made of brass and have a completely rounded external profile, whereas others seem to be copper, and have flat chamfers at either end. Can anyone tell me the significance of the two species, and are they interchangeable in different compression fittings? Thanks David Brass for gas couplings i.e fires ect and copper for water pipes i.e taps ect. -- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite |
#5
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Brass for gas couplings i.e fires ect and copper for water pipes i.e taps ect.
Doesn't explain why its much harder to get the copper ones than brass, round my way anyway. You would have thought more water is done than gas. I think compression for gas is not a good idea anyway. Simon |
#6
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In article .com,
wrote: I wondered about that. A lot of the fittings from the plumbers merchant come with copper ones for some reason, but you can only buy copper ones in large quantities and the sheds only seem to have brass ones. Brass are harder, and apparently give more support to the pipes. Copper are softer, and seem to require less tightening. I'm sure both should work OK. Copper olives seem to come with fittings which are all plastic. Eg, Some Triton electric showers. Instructions= "hand tighten only" On our bleeding mains pressure? You must be joking. I notice also the copper olives don't work very well if you try to use them a second time. Probably work-hardening of the copper. -- Tony Williams. |
#7
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#8
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You would have thought more water is done than gas. I think
compression for gas is not a good idea anyway. Why? Dunno ! I thought I heard it said on this group, and decided that a small leak is more likely with gas/compression, especially if the pipes got stressed. But I was simply justifying to myself what I had heard ! Simon. |
#9
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![]() "Lobster" wrote in message ... I've noticed two different types of these; some are apparently made of brass and have a completely rounded external profile, whereas others seem to be copper, and have flat chamfers at either end. Can anyone tell me the significance of the two species, and are they interchangeable in different compression fittings? Copper is best used where the compression fitting is used as a disconnection device at an appliance. The brass olives can indent the pipe, copper rarely do this. On each disconnection and re-connection a new copper olive is used. |
#10
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Doctor Drivel wrote:
"Lobster" wrote in message ... I've noticed two different types of these; some are apparently made of brass and have a completely rounded external profile, whereas others seem to be copper, and have flat chamfers at either end. Can anyone tell me the significance of the two species, and are they interchangeable in different compression fittings? Copper is best used where the compression fitting is used as a disconnection device at an appliance. The brass olives can indent the pipe, copper rarely do this. On each disconnection and re-connection a new copper olive is used. Yes but is there an easy way to get the old ones off? |
#11
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![]() "Broadback" wrote in message ... Doctor Drivel wrote: "Lobster" wrote in message ... I've noticed two different types of these; some are apparently made of brass and have a completely rounded external profile, whereas others seem to be copper, and have flat chamfers at either end. Can anyone tell me the significance of the two species, and are they interchangeable in different compression fittings? Copper is best used where the compression fitting is used as a disconnection device at an appliance. The brass olives can indent the pipe, copper rarely do this. On each disconnection and re-connection a new copper olive is used. Yes but is there an easy way to get the old ones off? The copper olives are pretty easy to remove. Monument sell an olive remover tool for 15mm only, for...£25. |
#12
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When I had a gas fitter around to fit the hob (freakin regs!), I
questioned his use of compression fittings instead of solder, and he said that they have started to use compression more because "They don't melt in a fire". |
#13
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On Thu, 17 Nov 2005 14:05:17 +0000, Broadback wrote:
Yes but is there an easy way to get the old ones off? Two methods: Junior hacksaw and big flat bladed screwdriver. Cut through the olive being careful not to touch the pipe. Put screwdriver into slot and twist to expand/break the olive. Be aware of sharp bits of metal on the broken olive. Get an olive removal tool: http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=6610 http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=6611 http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=122479 -- Cheers Dave. pam is missing e-mail |
#14
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![]() "Dave Liquorice" wrote in message ll.com... On Thu, 17 Nov 2005 14:05:17 +0000, Broadback wrote: Yes but is there an easy way to get the old ones off? Two methods: Junior hacksaw and big flat bladed screwdriver. Cut through the olive being careful not to touch the pipe. Put screwdriver into slot and twist to expand/break the olive. Be aware of sharp bits of metal on the broken olive. Get an olive removal tool: http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=6610 http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=6611 http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=122479 Copper olives come off very easily. |
#15
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Broadback wrote:
Yes but is there an easy way to get the old ones off? Using a junior hacksaw cut diagonally almost but not quite right through the olive - stop just before you'd be cutting into the pipe. Then insert a flat blade screwdriver into the kerf and twist. The olive will then ping off. Easy. -- Andy |
#16
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In message ews.net,
Doctor Drivel writes "Broadback" wrote in message ... Doctor Drivel wrote: "Lobster" wrote in message ... I've noticed two different types of these; some are apparently made of brass and have a completely rounded external profile, whereas others seem to be copper, and have flat chamfers at either end. Can anyone tell me the significance of the two species, and are they interchangeable in different compression fittings? Copper is best used where the compression fitting is used as a disconnection device at an appliance. The brass olives can indent the pipe, copper rarely do this. On each disconnection and re-connection a new copper olive is used. Yes but is there an easy way to get the old ones off? The copper olives are pretty easy to remove. Monument sell an olive remover tool for 15mm only, for...£25. But you'd use a hacksaw, wouldn't you * -- geoff |
#17
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On Thu, 17 Nov 2005 21:08:25 GMT, raden wrote:
The copper olives are pretty easy to remove. Monument sell an olive remover tool for 15mm only, for...£25. But you'd use a hacksaw, wouldn't you Time is money. 30s with a proper tool and no pipe damage or a couple of minutes hacksaw and possible pipe damage. If I was a pro plumber I know which I'd use and it wouldn't have lots of little teeth. -- Cheers Dave. pam is missing e-mail |
#19
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![]() "raden" wrote in message ... In message ews.net, Doctor Drivel writes "Broadback" wrote in message ... Doctor Drivel wrote: "Lobster" wrote in message ... I've noticed two different types of these; some are apparently made of brass and have a completely rounded external profile, whereas others seem to be copper, and have flat chamfers at either end. Can anyone tell me the significance of the two species, and are they interchangeable in different compression fittings? Copper is best used where the compression fitting is used as a disconnection device at an appliance. The brass olives can indent the pipe, copper rarely do this. On each disconnection and re-connection a new copper olive is used. Yes but is there an easy way to get the old ones off? The copper olives are pretty easy to remove. Monument sell an olive remover tool for 15mm only, for...£25. But you'd use a hacksaw, wouldn't you Maxie, an axe. |
#20
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![]() "Dave Liquorice" wrote in message ll.com... On Thu, 17 Nov 2005 21:08:25 GMT, raden wrote: Time is money. 30s with a proper tool and no pipe damage or a couple of minutes hacksaw and possible pipe damage. If I was a pro plumber I know which I'd use and it wouldn't have lots of little teeth. Yep about £25 for the Monument olive puller. |
#21
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Doctor Drivel wrote:
"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message ll.com... On Thu, 17 Nov 2005 21:08:25 GMT, raden wrote: Time is money. 30s with a proper tool and no pipe damage or a couple of minutes hacksaw and possible pipe damage. If I was a pro plumber I know which I'd use and it wouldn't have lots of little teeth. Yep about £25 for the Monument olive puller. I heard Brutus went to mount olive? and Popeye knocked seven bells out of him. -- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite |
#22
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![]() "Dave Liquorice" wrote in message ll.com... Time is money. 30s with a proper tool and no pipe damage or a couple of minutes hacksaw and possible pipe damage. If I was a pro plumber I know which I'd use and it wouldn't have lots of little teeth. But they don't Most use cheap tools designed the 1920s. |
#23
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![]() "TheTaffia" wrote in message oups.com... When I had a gas fitter around to fit the hob (freakin regs!), I questioned his use of compression fittings instead of solder, and he said that they have started to use compression more because "They don't melt in a fire". They only use them around appliances. |
#24
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Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Thu, 17 Nov 2005 21:08:25 GMT, raden wrote: The copper olives are pretty easy to remove. Monument sell an olive remover tool for 15mm only, for...£25. But you'd use a hacksaw, wouldn't you Time is money. 30s with a proper tool and no pipe damage or a couple of minutes hacksaw and possible pipe damage. If I was a pro plumber I know which I'd use and it wouldn't have lots of little teeth. A cheapo dremel clone to nearly split the olive and then a screwdriver to finish the job (twist open the slot made by the dremel) is quite quick and easy (and there was no room for a hacksaw). Chris -- Spamtrap in use To email replace 127.0.0.1 with blueyonder dot co dot uk |
#25
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![]() Andy Wade wrote: Broadback wrote: Yes but is there an easy way to get the old ones off? Using a junior hacksaw cut diagonally almost but not quite right through the olive - stop just before you'd be cutting into the pipe. Then insert a flat blade screwdriver into the kerf and twist. The olive will then ping off. Easy. -- Andy I do the same (ish) but it's rarely straightforward. I find the lack of room to manouevre the saw blade and just getting a starting cut without the saw slipping always comes into it. If these olive pullers are as good as I've heard people say they are then they will definitely be on my tool list. |
#26
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#27
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Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Thu, 17 Nov 2005 14:05:17 +0000, Broadback wrote: Yes but is there an easy way to get the old ones off? Two methods: Junior hacksaw and big flat bladed screwdriver. Cut through the olive being careful not to touch the pipe. Put screwdriver into slot and twist to expand/break the olive. Be aware of sharp bits of metal on the broken olive. Get an olive removal tool: Sometimes you can ease the olive off by using waterpump pliers to pull the back of the nut towards the end of the pipe, first at one side then the opposite. |
#28
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![]() wrote in message ... Dave Liquorice wrote: On Thu, 17 Nov 2005 14:05:17 +0000, Broadback wrote: Yes but is there an easy way to get the old ones off? Two methods: Junior hacksaw and big flat bladed screwdriver. Cut through the olive being careful not to touch the pipe. Put screwdriver into slot and twist to expand/break the olive. Be aware of sharp bits of metal on the broken olive. Get an olive removal tool: Sometimes you can ease the olive off by using waterpump pliers to pull the back of the nut towards the end of the pipe, first at one side then the opposite. The operative word is "sometimes". |
#29
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On 18 Nov 2005 09:51:37 -0800, wrote:
If these olive pullers are as good as I've heard people say they are then they will definitely be on my tool list. I'm not sure a puller would deal with an olive form a joint that has been over tightened. I can't remember if I included a link to the puller previously but I know the links were to 15 and 22mm olive cutters. -- Cheers Dave. pam is missing e-mail |
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