From the CU is a 6.0 wire to a cooker box on the kitchen wall. (15 amp
fuse)

This box is the standard cooker switched box with a switched socket on
it. Next to it is a double 13 amp socket.

I have just found that this socket is set as a spur to the cooker box.
The connecting 2.5 T&E is only about eight inches long as the cooker
switch and socket are only an inch apart.

I have asked elsewhere but the nearest I can get to an opinion is that
it is "iffy" but may pass any compliance due to its position and
closeness to the supplying box. Also the comment that an alternative
socket not on the ring is useful.

Being of simple mind, it seems to me that it either complies or it
doesn't..

Help appreciated.

EricP wrote:

From the CU is a 6.0 wire to a cooker box on the kitchen wall. (15 amp
fuse)

This box is the standard cooker switched box with a switched socket on
it. Next to it is a double 13 amp socket.

I have just found that this socket is set as a spur to the cooker box.
The connecting 2.5 T&E is only about eight inches long as the cooker
switch and socket are only an inch apart.

I have asked elsewhere but the nearest I can get to an opinion is that
it is "iffy" but may pass any compliance due to its position and
closeness to the supplying box. Also the comment that an alternative
socket not on the ring is useful.

Being of simple mind, it seems to me that it either complies or it
doesn't..

Help appreciated.

Many specifications contain lots of recommendations as well as
hard-and-fast rules. This seems to be in one of these areas - I am not
aware of any rules that this breaks, but it is something that you
probably shouldn't do (and is probably covered by a number of "should
not" clauses in the full regulations).

It's like "you must not drive when over the blood/alcohol limit" but
also "you should not drive when you have drunk any alcohol".

On 15 Nov 2005 07:17:20 -0800, "gg1000" wrote:


EricP wrote:

From the CU is a 6.0 wire to a cooker box on the kitchen wall. (15 amp
fuse)

This box is the standard cooker switched box with a switched socket on
it. Next to it is a double 13 amp socket.

I have just found that this socket is set as a spur to the cooker box.
The connecting 2.5 T&E is only about eight inches long as the cooker
switch and socket are only an inch apart.

I have asked elsewhere but the nearest I can get to an opinion is that
it is "iffy" but may pass any compliance due to its position and
closeness to the supplying box. Also the comment that an alternative
socket not on the ring is useful.

Being of simple mind, it seems to me that it either complies or it
doesn't..

Help appreciated.

Many specifications contain lots of recommendations as well as
hard-and-fast rules. This seems to be in one of these areas - I am not
aware of any rules that this breaks, but it is something that you
probably shouldn't do (and is probably covered by a number of "should
not" clauses in the full regulations).

It's like "you must not drive when over the blood/alcohol limit" but
also "you should not drive when you have drunk any alcohol".

So that supports the opinions so far then. "Iffy" seems to rule.

Many thanks for looking at it. )

"EricP" wrote in message
...
On 15 Nov 2005 07:17:20 -0800, "gg1000" wrote:


EricP wrote:

From the CU is a 6.0 wire to a cooker box on the kitchen wall. (15 amp
fuse)

This box is the standard cooker switched box with a switched socket on
it. Next to it is a double 13 amp socket.

I have just found that this socket is set as a spur to the cooker box.
The connecting 2.5 T&E is only about eight inches long as the cooker
switch and socket are only an inch apart.

I have asked elsewhere but the nearest I can get to an opinion is that
it is "iffy" but may pass any compliance due to its position and
closeness to the supplying box. Also the comment that an alternative
socket not on the ring is useful.

Being of simple mind, it seems to me that it either complies or it
doesn't..

Help appreciated.

Many specifications contain lots of recommendations as well as
hard-and-fast rules. This seems to be in one of these areas - I am not
aware of any rules that this breaks, but it is something that you
probably shouldn't do (and is probably covered by a number of "should
not" clauses in the full regulations).

It's like "you must not drive when over the blood/alcohol limit" but
also "you should not drive when you have drunk any alcohol".

So that supports the opinions so far then. "Iffy" seems to rule.

Many thanks for looking at it. )

my mums cooker point has a 13 amp socket built in

So that supports the opinions so far then. "Iffy" seems to rule.

Yes iffy, but not immediately dangerous.

Christian.

my mums cooker point has a 13 amp socket built in

That's explicitly allowed, provided you follow the stated rules for
diversity calculation.

Christian.

On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 15:58:28 -0000, "Christian McArdle"
wrote:

So that supports the opinions so far then. "Iffy" seems to rule.

Yes iffy, but not immediately dangerous.

Christian.

Thanks Christian I will leave it then and not worry.

(I didn't mention the meter plus of diagonal lead to the cooker I
found in the wall.) (

EricP wrote:

On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 15:58:28 -0000, "Christian McArdle"
wrote:

So that supports the opinions so far then. "Iffy" seems to rule.

Yes iffy, but not immediately dangerous.

Christian.

Thanks Christian I will leave it then and not worry.

(I didn't mention the meter plus of diagonal lead to the cooker I
found in the wall.) (

That one is a big no-no

"gg1000" wrote in message
ups.com...

EricP wrote:

On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 15:58:28 -0000, "Christian McArdle"
wrote:

So that supports the opinions so far then. "Iffy" seems to rule.

Yes iffy, but not immediately dangerous.

Christian.

Thanks Christian I will leave it then and not worry.

(I didn't mention the meter plus of diagonal lead to the cooker I
found in the wall.) (

That one is a big no-no

but very common

"EricP" wrote in message
...
On 15 Nov 2005 07:17:20 -0800, "gg1000" wrote:


EricP wrote:

From the CU is a 6.0 wire to a cooker box on the kitchen wall. (15 amp
fuse)

This box is the standard cooker switched box with a switched socket on
it. Next to it is a double 13 amp socket.

I have just found that this socket is set as a spur to the cooker box.
The connecting 2.5 T&E is only about eight inches long as the cooker
switch and socket are only an inch apart.

I have asked elsewhere but the nearest I can get to an opinion is that
it is "iffy" but may pass any compliance due to its position and
closeness to the supplying box. Also the comment that an alternative
socket not on the ring is useful.

Is the fuse is really a 15 amp fuse and not a blue 15 amp fuse holder with
30 amp fuse wire inside? If it really is 15 amp then you are probably not
using an electric hob and so you have just a bog standard radial circuit
feeding an electric oven and gas hob plus the double socket. If it is 30 amp
fuse wire and a full electric cooker then a double socket spured from the
circuit is not good and I would remove it.

Adam

On 15 Nov 2005 10:14:07 -0800, "gg1000" wrote:


EricP wrote:

On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 15:58:28 -0000, "Christian McArdle"
wrote:

So that supports the opinions so far then. "Iffy" seems to rule.

Yes iffy, but not immediately dangerous.

Christian.

Thanks Christian I will leave it then and not worry.

(I didn't mention the meter plus of diagonal lead to the cooker I
found in the wall.) (

That one is a big no-no

I know and agree fully with this particular piece of ruling.

Is down and across at right angles ok?

Or easier would be down in conduit and then open on the surface under
the worktop. This will avoid problems.

On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 18:33:01 GMT, "Funfly3"
wrote:


"gg1000" wrote in message
oups.com...

EricP wrote:

On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 15:58:28 -0000, "Christian McArdle"
wrote:

So that supports the opinions so far then. "Iffy" seems to rule.

Yes iffy, but not immediately dangerous.

Christian.

Thanks Christian I will leave it then and not worry.

(I didn't mention the meter plus of diagonal lead to the cooker I
found in the wall.) (

That one is a big no-no

but very common

Yep. 167 others in my road and a few thousand in the immediate
vacinity, if this practice was followed on every build.

On Tue, 15 Nov 2005 20:02:33 GMT, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:


"EricP" wrote in message
.. .
On 15 Nov 2005 07:17:20 -0800, "gg1000" wrote:


EricP wrote:

From the CU is a 6.0 wire to a cooker box on the kitchen wall. (15 amp
fuse)

This box is the standard cooker switched box with a switched socket on
it. Next to it is a double 13 amp socket.

I have just found that this socket is set as a spur to the cooker box.
The connecting 2.5 T&E is only about eight inches long as the cooker
switch and socket are only an inch apart.

I have asked elsewhere but the nearest I can get to an opinion is that
it is "iffy" but may pass any compliance due to its position and
closeness to the supplying box. Also the comment that an alternative
socket not on the ring is useful.

Is the fuse is really a 15 amp fuse and not a blue 15 amp fuse holder with
30 amp fuse wire inside? If it really is 15 amp then you are probably not
using an electric hob and so you have just a bog standard radial circuit
feeding an electric oven and gas hob plus the double socket. If it is 30 amp
fuse wire and a full electric cooker then a double socket spured from the
circuit is not good and I would remove it.

Adam

The age of the house suggests that the circuit was intended for the
older hob with two hotplates and two of the spiral rings, and a simple
oven. From memory the oven had a 1KW loading and the hob about 4KW
maximum.

I am all gas, so I will permanently disconnect the diagonal wire to
the cooker point by cutting the wires so they can't be reconnected,
and put a fused spur (3amp?) in for the hob and oven electrics, just
the spark ignition and oven light.