I am about to attempt putting up a false ceiling at the top of the landing.
I don't want the hassle and mess of pulling down the old one.

I was thinking of screwing some 3" x 2" timber around the walls, and then
fixing some battens to the timber at 600mm.
Does this sound reasonable ?

Any suggestions most welcome

TIA

On Wed, 12 Oct 2005 10:06:51 +0100, "United"
wrote:

| I am about to attempt putting up a false ceiling at the top of the landing.
| I don't want the hassle and mess of pulling down the old one.
|
| I was thinking of screwing some 3" x 2" timber around the walls, and then
| fixing some battens to the timber at 600mm.
| Does this sound reasonable ?

Have you thought of a suspended ceiling as can be found in many offices?
They are just squares of polystyrene on thin aluminium angle hung from
wires.

--
Dave Fawthrop dave hyphenologist co uk
The London suicide bombers killed innocent commuters.
Animal rights terrorists and activists kill innocent patients.

I was thinking of screwing some 3" x 2" timber around the walls, and then
fixing some battens to the timber at 600mm.
Does this sound reasonable ?


This is pretty much exactly what the previous owner did in the bathroom of
my house, using t&g flooring as the actual ceiling. The surveyor told me to
pull it down as it was a fire hazard.

"Dave Fawthrop" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 12 Oct 2005 10:06:51 +0100, "United"
wrote:

| I am about to attempt putting up a false ceiling at the top of the
landing.
| I don't want the hassle and mess of pulling down the old one.
|
| I was thinking of screwing some 3" x 2" timber around the walls, and
then
| fixing some battens to the timber at 600mm.
| Does this sound reasonable ?

Have you thought of a suspended ceiling as can be found in many offices?
They are just squares of polystyrene on thin aluminium angle hung from
wires.


Dave

I would rather stick with a plasterboard ceiling.

Thanks

"Séan Connolly" mrcATseanDASHconnollyDOTcoDOTuk wrote in message
...
I was thinking of screwing some 3" x 2" timber around the walls, and then
fixing some battens to the timber at 600mm.
Does this sound reasonable ?


This is pretty much exactly what the previous owner did in the bathroom of
my house, using t&g flooring as the actual ceiling. The surveyor told me
to pull it down as it was a fire hazard.

Sorry, I forgot to mention that I intend to plasterboard and plaster the
ceiling after I get the timber structure in place.

Sorry, I forgot to mention that I intend to plasterboard and plaster the
ceiling after I get the timber structure in place.

Can't see why this wouldn't work then....

Is there any reason why you want a false ceiling?Why not just board over the
old one.Mark where all the joist's are around the wall so you can see them
when the new board goes up,and just use longer screws or nails.
scezy
"Séan Connolly" mrcATseanDASHconnollyDOTcoDOTuk wrote in message
...

Sorry, I forgot to mention that I intend to plasterboard and plaster the
ceiling after I get the timber structure in place.

Can't see why this wouldn't work then....

"rat" wrote in message
...
Is there any reason why you want a false ceiling?Why not just board over
the
old one.Mark where all the joist's are around the wall so you can see them
when the new board goes up,and just use longer screws or nails.

The reason for the false ceiling is that I am going to replace the existing
light with some spots, and this would make the wiring job a lot cleaner &
easier; I hope.

rat wrote:
Is there any reason why you want a false ceiling?Why not just board over the
old one.

I'm with rat on this,there's no need to put a framework up at all.Like
he says,mark out the centres before you offer the board up.You might
like to use a straight edge/level just to check the ceiling you've got
is flat and level first though.
Alternatively,just seal and glue before you skim.

On Wed, 12 Oct 2005 12:29:02 +0100, "United"
scrawled:

The reason for the false ceiling is that I am going to replace the existing
light with some spots, and this would make the wiring job a lot cleaner &
easier; I hope.

What's wrong with putting the lights in the existing ceiling and
wiring through the loft?
--
Stuart @ SJW Electrical

Please Reply to group

Dave Fawthrop wrote:
[snip]

Have you thought of a suspended ceiling as can be found in many
offices? They are just squares of polystyrene on thin aluminium angle
hung from wires.

Would you have a suspended ceiling of this ilk at the top of your
landing/hallway?

/me shudders
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

Fit a suspended ceiling? Ready finished, easy to place lights etc. Very
little hassle. You need about 2" of clearance to insert the panels.

Regards
Capitol

"Lurch" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 12 Oct 2005 12:29:02 +0100, "United"
scrawled:

The reason for the false ceiling is that I am going to replace the
existing
light with some spots, and this would make the wiring job a lot cleaner &
easier; I hope.

What's wrong with putting the lights in the existing ceiling and
wiring through the loft?

The existing ceiling is very uneven, and a section of it has actually fallen
down., hence I was thinking that it would be easier to put up a new one. It
would not be easy getting access through the loft.

I was thinking of screwing some 3" x 2" timber around the walls, and then
fixing some battens to the timber at 600mm.
Does this sound reasonable ?

Should work fine. Make sure your "battens" (actually joists) are large
enough for the span. They should be "on edge", with the longer dimension
vertical. 600mm centres require 12.5mm plasterboard. You should only use
12.5mm plasterboard for habitable properties anyway, for fire resistance.

Christian.

"Christian McArdle" wrote in message
. net...
I was thinking of screwing some 3" x 2" timber around the walls, and then
fixing some battens to the timber at 600mm.
Does this sound reasonable ?

Should work fine. Make sure your "battens" (actually joists) are large
enough for the span. They should be "on edge", with the longer dimension
vertical. 600mm centres require 12.5mm plasterboard. You should only use
12.5mm plasterboard for habitable properties anyway, for fire resistance.

Christian.

Thanks Christian

What size timber do you suggest I use for the battens ? I don't have the
measurement of the span at present; would need to measure
Would 2" x 1" be ok ?

What size timber do you suggest I use for the battens ? I don't have the
measurement of the span at present; would need to measure
Would 2" x 1" be ok ?

Without the span (even approximate), then no calculation can be made.

Christian.