hi people

a few questions to do with glues and paints and similar substances...

(with apologies if these have been discussed recently - I'm not up to
date reading this group. if so then please just give me a clue of what
words to search on.)


1. Kitchen worktop of the kind made of thick chipboard with melamine
(or something resembling melamine) covering/edging.

a) The main new bit is going around the sink, and the fate of the old
bit was to get wet underneath, expand and crumble. I'm thinking that
before we install the new bit I would like to paint the underneath of it
and all exposed edges with some very waterproof paint or varnish - I was
thinking of the kind you put on boats (and maybe that's overkill and
maybe not).

If this is not a foolish idea which you'd like to talk me out of, then
can anyone tell me what that's called and/or a brand name and where I
would get it?

b) In another place I have a chipboard edge that is destined to be a
melamine edge, if you see what I mean. (This is not on the bit around
the sink, and will rarely get wet.)

I have some matching edging, but what I don't know is what kind of glue
is best for sticking it on. Advice?

The edge in question is straight except for a little corner just at the
end, so probably it'll be one long bit and one short bit, although an
alternative would be to round off the corner and bend it all in one
piece. (The corner angle is convex and fairly shallow, much gentler
than 90 degrees.)

Any clues about successful sticking-on and cutting-to-size would be
useful too, e.g. best thing to cut the edging with, and whether it's
likely to work better doing the curve or the two separate angles.


2. Little ceramic tiles with house numbers on. What would be the best
substance for attaching them to the house?

I think when I've seen similar things in the past, they've always been
inset into pebbledash or some such. But our house is just brick on the
outside.

It has occurred to me to wonder whether in the long term they'll get
levered off by frost or something in the absence of some surrounding
support. If that might be a problem, one possibility would be to screw
a (nice looking) little wooden batten underneath (and probably above,
more for symmetry than structure), and then sort of fill in with
something.

But the tiles aren't heavy - about 50g each, and about 5cm x 10cm in
size. And obviously it would be less work if there were some kind of
sticky putty or cement which would just kind of glue them to the house
without a surrounding framework, and which could be smoothed round the
edges at an angle to help any rain run off. I do rather suspect that
some such sticky stuff exists, but what would it be called?


3. Neglected external woodwork on a windowframe.

The paint has worn off, and luckily it's good old well-seasoned wood so
it hasn't gone rotten, but it has gone a bit shrunken and ridgy. So I
figure if it gets painted like that, the uneven bits will catch the
water which is not what we want. So presumably it needs filling to be
flat before it's painted. So would that best be done with just any old
external woodwork filler or what?


Thanks in advance for all wisdom!

--
Jennifer * * * * original music: www.single-bass.co.uk *
* * everything else: www.uncharted-worlds.org *
* * * * * * intuition . imagination . integrity *
* * * * * * * * * love counts more than gender *

Jennifer Moore wrote:

a) The main new bit is going around the sink, and the fate of the old
bit was to get wet underneath, expand and crumble. I'm thinking that
before we install the new bit I would like to paint the underneath of it
and all exposed edges with some very waterproof paint or varnish - I was
thinking of the kind you put on boats (and maybe that's overkill and
maybe not).

If this is not a foolish idea which you'd like to talk me out of, then
can anyone tell me what that's called and/or a brand name and where I
would get it?


You're thinking of yacht varnish. I think this is overkill, at least in
normal domestic situations. Normal practice is to seal the cut edges
with a generous helping of PVA or silicone, and make sue that the
worktop is well sealed against the walls/sink/hob etc. The object is to
try to prevent water from getting at the underside.



b) In another place I have a chipboard edge that is destined to be a
melamine edge, if you see what I mean. (This is not on the bit around
the sink, and will rarely get wet.)

I have some matching edging, but what I don't know is what kind of glue
is best for sticking it on. Advice?

The supplied edging usually has a hot-melt glue on the back, so you iron
it on. Try a small piece.

If it isn't backed with hot-melt glue, use some water-based no-nails, like:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=41993&ts=84751



The edge in question is straight except for a little corner just at the
end, so probably it'll be one long bit and one short bit, although an
alternative would be to round off the corner and bend it all in one
piece. (The corner angle is convex and fairly shallow, much gentler
than 90 degrees.)

Any clues about successful sticking-on and cutting-to-size would be
useful too, e.g. best thing to cut the edging with, and whether it's
likely to work better doing the curve or the two separate angles.

I'd probably try to do it in one piece. As for trimming, this is best
done with a sharp knife once the glue has set, followed by some fine
sandpaper to finish the corner.



2. Little ceramic tiles with house numbers on. What would be the best
substance for attaching them to the house?

I think when I've seen similar things in the past, they've always been
inset into pebbledash or some such. But our house is just brick on the
outside.

It has occurred to me to wonder whether in the long term they'll get
levered off by frost or something in the absence of some surrounding
support. If that might be a problem, one possibility would be to screw
a (nice looking) little wooden batten underneath (and probably above,
more for symmetry than structure), and then sort of fill in with something.

But the tiles aren't heavy - about 50g each, and about 5cm x 10cm in
size. And obviously it would be less work if there were some kind of
sticky putty or cement which would just kind of glue them to the house
without a surrounding framework, and which could be smoothed round the
edges at an angle to help any rain run off. I do rather suspect that
some such sticky stuff exists, but what would it be called?

If you use an epoxy based filler, the tiles should stay on for a looong
time. Like this:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=43020&ts=85001



3. Neglected external woodwork on a windowframe.

The paint has worn off, and luckily it's good old well-seasoned wood so
it hasn't gone rotten, but it has gone a bit shrunken and ridgy. So I
figure if it gets painted like that, the uneven bits will catch the
water which is not what we want. So presumably it needs filling to be
flat before it's painted. So would that best be done with just any old
external woodwork filler or what?

Use the left over epoxy filler from (2).



--
Grunff

"Jennifer Moore" wrote in message
...
hi people

a few questions to do with glues and paints and similar substances...

(with apologies if these have been discussed recently - I'm not up to
date reading this group. if so then please just give me a clue of what
words to search on.)


1. Kitchen worktop of the kind made of thick chipboard with melamine
(or something resembling melamine) covering/edging.

a) The main new bit is going around the sink, and the fate of the old
bit was to get wet underneath, expand and crumble. I'm thinking that
before we install the new bit I would like to paint the underneath of it
and all exposed edges with some very waterproof paint or varnish - I was
thinking of the kind you put on boats (and maybe that's overkill and
maybe not).

If this is not a foolish idea which you'd like to talk me out of, then
can anyone tell me what that's called and/or a brand name and where I
would get it?


I used a small tin of polyurethane varnish round all cutouts 6 years ago and
have had no problems


b) In another place I have a chipboard edge that is destined to be a
melamine edge, if you see what I mean. (This is not on the bit around
the sink, and will rarely get wet.)

I have some matching edging, but what I don't know is what kind of glue
is best for sticking it on. Advice?


evo-stick contact adhesive


The edge in question is straight except for a little corner just at the
end, so probably it'll be one long bit and one short bit, although an
alternative would be to round off the corner and bend it all in one
piece. (The corner angle is convex and fairly shallow, much gentler
than 90 degrees.)


I cut the corner off and did the end and corner as 2 bits

Any clues about successful sticking-on and cutting-to-size would be
useful too, e.g. best thing to cut the edging with, and whether it's
likely to work better doing the curve or the two separate angles.


I used a dremel type tool with a small sanding drum to trim


Regards Jeff

Jennifer Moore wrote:
1. Kitchen worktop of the kind made of thick chipboard with melamine
(or something resembling melamine) covering/edging.

a) The main new bit is going around the sink, and the fate of the old
bit was to get wet underneath, expand and crumble. I'm thinking that
before we install the new bit I would like to paint the underneath of it
and all exposed edges with some very waterproof paint or varnish

Put on a couple of thick coats of gloss paint or varnish (not
water based stuff), until it's sealed. Extend for about 6"
around the cut on the underside. Yacht varnish would be fine,
or any exterior one.


b) In another place I have a chipboard edge that is destined to be a
melamine edge, if you see what I mean. (This is not on the bit around
the sink, and will rarely get wet.)

I have some matching edging, but what I don't know is what kind of glue
is best for sticking it on. Advice?

Evo-Stik impact adhesive. Coat both surfaces with a "comb".
Let dry as per instructions. Join. N.B. you only get one shot
at it, so make sure it's positioned accurately before you
touch the surfaces together. Press together firmly.


The edge in question is straight except for a little corner just at the
end, so probably it'll be one long bit and one short bit, although an
alternative would be to round off the corner and bend it all in one
piece. (The corner angle is convex and fairly shallow, much gentler
than 90 degrees.)

Any clues about successful sticking-on and cutting-to-size would be
useful too, e.g. best thing to cut the edging with, and whether it's
likely to work better doing the curve or the two separate angles.

Is this the stuff you trim after sticking on?


2. Little ceramic tiles with house numbers on. What would be the best
substance for attaching them to the house?

Silicone sealant, applied in a couple of blobs. Support the
tile 'till it sets.


I think when I've seen similar things in the past, they've always been
inset into pebbledash or some such. But our house is just brick on the
outside.

It has occurred to me to wonder whether in the long term they'll get
levered off by frost or something in the absence of some surrounding
support. If that might be a problem, one possibility would be to screw
a (nice looking) little wooden batten underneath (and probably above,
more for symmetry than structure), and then sort of fill in with something.

But the tiles aren't heavy - about 50g each, and about 5cm x 10cm in
size. And obviously it would be less work if there were some kind of
sticky putty or cement which would just kind of glue them to the house
without a surrounding framework, and which could be smoothed round the
edges at an angle to help any rain run off. I do rather suspect that
some such sticky stuff exists, but what would it be called?

If you want to get the tiles off, the only easy way is
with a bit of cheese-wire (ir thin picture wire stuff)
pulled behind with a sawing motion.


3. Neglected external woodwork on a windowframe.

The paint has worn off, and luckily it's good old well-seasoned wood so
it hasn't gone rotten, but it has gone a bit shrunken and ridgy. So I
figure if it gets painted like that, the uneven bits will catch the
water which is not what we want. So presumably it needs filling to be
flat before it's painted. So would that best be done with just any old
external woodwork filler or what?

I'd prime it first, before filling. Various adherents (!) of
resin and car body filler will probably tell you about it.

On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 10:12:16 +0100, Grunff wrote:


You're thinking of yacht varnish. I think this is overkill, at least in
normal domestic situations. Normal practice is to seal the cut edges
with a generous helping of PVA or silicone, and make sue that the
worktop is well sealed against the walls/sink/hob etc. The object is to
try to prevent water from getting at the underside.

Absolutely. Silicone sealant applied to the back of the board immediately
before installation and tidied up just after should keep the water out of
where it can do damage.


The supplied edging usually has a hot-melt glue on the back, so you iron
it on. Try a small piece.

If it isn't backed with hot-melt glue, use some water-based no-nails,
like:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=41993&ts=84751

Evo-stik is another alternative.

I'd probably try to do it in one piece. As for trimming, this is best
done with a sharp knife once the glue has set, followed by some fine
sandpaper to finish the corner.

If you own a jack-plane, this is another alternative. a 45 degree bevel is
probably optimal.

2. Little ceramic tiles with house numbers on.

If you use an epoxy based filler, the tiles should stay on for a looong
time. Like this:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=43020&ts=85001

Car body filler is good too. Goes off quicker for a start. Polyester has a
long service life.

3. Neglected external woodwork on a windowframe.

Use the left over epoxy filler from (2).

Body filler should be easier to sand down. Epoxies tend to clog sandpaper.

John Schmitt

--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

Jennifer Moore wrote:
hi people
1. Kitchen worktop of the kind made of thick chipboard with melamine
(or something resembling melamine) covering/edging.

Paint the exposed chipboard with PVA or varnish - most important, seal it
with silicone so the water can't get to it in the first place.

I have some matching edging, but what I don't know is what kind of
glue is best for sticking it on. Advice?

Evo Stick.

2. Little ceramic tiles with house numbers on. What would be the
best substance for attaching them to the house?

Gripfill or any construction adhesive, No More Nails etc.

3. Neglected external woodwork on a windowframe.

Any exterior wood filler.

Dave

Thanks everyone for advice on glues etc for various purposes.

(b.t.w. the water getting to the underneath of the old worktop was not
all through bad seals, though some probably was - some of it was at the
front, e.g. if overenthusiastic washing-up (not by me :-) led to water
trickling off the front of the worktop. & of course once the chipboard
has started to deteriorate, it sucks up every drop - this is the main
thing I want to "head off at the pass" by varnishing the underneath)

--
Jennifer * * * * original music: www.single-bass.co.uk *
* * everything else: www.uncharted-worlds.org *
* * * * * * intuition . imagination . integrity *
* * * * * * * * * love counts more than gender *