Hi Folks,

The boiler pilot lights but the boiler fails to go all guns blazing. I
replaced the 3 Port motorised valve and pump a couple of weekends ago.
Filled up and everything was working fine.

Now the boiler just seems to cut out. Pilot stays on though. If I turn
everything off and restart, it'll fire up for about 5 minutes and then
die on me again.

Any ideas. Cannot find any manuals on potterton site so don't know
where to start. Any help would be greatly appreciated

In message . com,
koolio writes
Hi Folks,

The boiler pilot lights but the boiler fails to go all guns blazing. I
replaced the 3 Port motorised valve and pump a couple of weekends ago.
Filled up and everything was working fine.

Now the boiler just seems to cut out. Pilot stays on though. If I turn
everything off and restart, it'll fire up for about 5 minutes and then
die on me again.

Any ideas. Cannot find any manuals on potterton site so don't know
where to start. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Does it keep sparking i.e a continual clicking ?

--
geoff

On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 00:29:40 -0700, koolio wrote:

Hi Folks,

The boiler pilot lights but the boiler fails to go all guns blazing. I
replaced the 3 Port motorised valve and pump a couple of weekends ago.
Filled up and everything was working fine.

Now the boiler just seems to cut out. Pilot stays on though. If I turn
everything off and restart, it'll fire up for about 5 minutes and then
die on me again.

Any ideas. Cannot find any manuals on potterton site so don't know
where to start. Any help would be greatly appreciated

IIRC these boilers are overgrown "neataheats".
The pilot flame works on a phial+capilliary tube which moves the gas valve
to the full rate. Very like many ovens work.

These symptoms probably don't indicate a bad gas valve (although that
could be a cause), it's possible that when the boiler warms up the pilot
does not heat the phial enough?

--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

In message .uk, Ed
Sirett writes
On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 00:29:40 -0700, koolio wrote:

Hi Folks,

The boiler pilot lights but the boiler fails to go all guns blazing. I
replaced the 3 Port motorised valve and pump a couple of weekends ago.
Filled up and everything was working fine.

Now the boiler just seems to cut out. Pilot stays on though. If I turn
everything off and restart, it'll fire up for about 5 minutes and then
die on me again.

Any ideas. Cannot find any manuals on potterton site so don't know
where to start. Any help would be greatly appreciated

IIRC these boilers are overgrown "neataheats".
The pilot flame works on a phial+capilliary tube which moves the gas valve
to the full rate. Very like many ovens work.

I don't think that the Profile does


These symptoms probably don't indicate a bad gas valve (although that
could be a cause), it's possible that when the boiler warms up the pilot
does not heat the phial enough?


--
geoff

Hi Geoff/Ed

Thanks for the replies.

Geoff - No clicking , Pilot is on, pump and valve work fine. Just
pumping cold water around.

Ed - Don't know about the heating of the phial, but the boiler does
fire up initially but dies again after a few minutes.

Thing is it was working fine all week. I bled the radiators this
morning, there was a little bit of air in one, about 5 seconds worth,
but nothing major. One thing I noticed is that it does get awfully hot
to the touch. I know that it would get a little hot, but not sure how
hot they are meant to get. I cannot touch it sometimes. The fan works
fine.

The other thing I notoiced today is that if I drop the PCB mouting
plate from the front and let air flow freely through it worked fine for
a few hours. Have put it back on timer and left it open tonite to see
if it works OK in the morning. Could this be a dry joint or a problem
with the trip switch?

In message . com,
koolio writes
Hi Geoff/Ed

Thanks for the replies.

Geoff - No clicking , Pilot is on, pump and valve work fine. Just
pumping cold water around.

Ed - Don't know about the heating of the phial, but the boiler does
fire up initially but dies again after a few minutes.

Thing is it was working fine all week. I bled the radiators this
morning, there was a little bit of air in one, about 5 seconds worth,
but nothing major. One thing I noticed is that it does get awfully hot
to the touch. I know that it would get a little hot, but not sure how
hot they are meant to get. I cannot touch it sometimes. The fan works
fine.

The other thing I notoiced today is that if I drop the PCB mouting
plate from the front and let air flow freely through it worked fine for
a few hours. Have put it back on timer and left it open tonite to see
if it works OK in the morning. Could this be a dry joint

It's a common problem with profiles

although technically they're not dry joints

--
geoff

Whats the common problem?

Thats what my dad calls them anyway. Used to be a TV mechanic! What do
I need to do.

In message . com,
koolio writes
Whats the common problem?

Thats what my dad calls them anyway. Used to be a TV mechanic! What do
I need to do.


Cracked joints

--
geoff

Oh OK.

Are they easily identifiable and fixable or do I need a new board?
My Dad can no longer keep a steady hand and his eyesight is not what it
used to be.

On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 19:21:58 +0000, raden wrote:

In message .uk, Ed
Sirett writes
On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 00:29:40 -0700, koolio wrote:

Hi Folks,

The boiler pilot lights but the boiler fails to go all guns blazing. I
replaced the 3 Port motorised valve and pump a couple of weekends ago.
Filled up and everything was working fine.

Now the boiler just seems to cut out. Pilot stays on though. If I turn
everything off and restart, it'll fire up for about 5 minutes and then
die on me again.

Any ideas. Cannot find any manuals on potterton site so don't know
where to start. Any help would be greatly appreciated

IIRC these boilers are overgrown "neataheats".
The pilot flame works on a phial+capilliary tube which moves the gas valve
to the full rate. Very like many ovens work.

I don't think that the Profile does

Agreed but this is a "Prima".


--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 12:50:01 -0700, koolio wrote:

Hi Geoff/Ed

Thanks for the replies.

Geoff - No clicking , Pilot is on, pump and valve work fine. Just
pumping cold water around.

Ed - Don't know about the heating of the phial, but the boiler does
fire up initially but dies again after a few minutes.

Thing is it was working fine all week. I bled the radiators this
morning, there was a little bit of air in one, about 5 seconds worth,
but nothing major. One thing I noticed is that it does get awfully hot
to the touch. I know that it would get a little hot, but not sure how
hot they are meant to get. I cannot touch it sometimes. The fan works
fine.

This seems more like there is no circulation. Perhaps the pump is driven
by the boiler? It may be that the pump over run stat is not changing over
as it warms up. Initially the stat will send the pump the boiler demand
signal when the boilers get above a certain temp it will flick over to
connecting the unswitched supply live to the pump.



The other thing I notoiced today is that if I drop the PCB mouting
plate from the front and let air flow freely through it worked fine for
a few hours. Have put it back on timer and left it open tonite to see
if it works OK in the morning. Could this be a dry joint or a problem
with the trip switch?

Might just have kept things cool enough to work?

--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

In message . com,
koolio writes
Oh OK.

Are they easily identifiable and fixable or do I need a new board?
My Dad can no longer keep a steady hand and his eyesight is not what it
used to be.

It's up to you - i don't know how competent you are

look at my website www.cetltd.com

and make your own decision

--
geoff

In message .uk, Ed
Sirett writes
On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 19:21:58 +0000, raden wrote:

In message .uk, Ed
Sirett writes
On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 00:29:40 -0700, koolio wrote:

Hi Folks,

The boiler pilot lights but the boiler fails to go all guns blazing. I
replaced the 3 Port motorised valve and pump a couple of weekends ago.
Filled up and everything was working fine.

Now the boiler just seems to cut out. Pilot stays on though. If I turn
everything off and restart, it'll fire up for about 5 minutes and then
die on me again.

Any ideas. Cannot find any manuals on potterton site so don't know
where to start. Any help would be greatly appreciated

IIRC these boilers are overgrown "neataheats".
The pilot flame works on a phial+capilliary tube which moves the gas valve
to the full rate. Very like many ovens work.

I don't think that the Profile does

Agreed but this is a "Prima".

It uses the same pcb as the profile, and I think the same gas valve (fan
is different)

I think the netaheat valve was a one off and not used on any other
boiler. It was inherited from the non-electronic version which had a
relay and a spark module as the only active electronics

--
geoff

In message .uk, Ed
Sirett writes
On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 12:50:01 -0700, koolio wrote:

Hi Geoff/Ed

Thanks for the replies.

Geoff - No clicking , Pilot is on, pump and valve work fine. Just
pumping cold water around.

Ed - Don't know about the heating of the phial, but the boiler does
fire up initially but dies again after a few minutes.

Thing is it was working fine all week. I bled the radiators this
morning, there was a little bit of air in one, about 5 seconds worth,
but nothing major. One thing I noticed is that it does get awfully hot
to the touch. I know that it would get a little hot, but not sure how
hot they are meant to get. I cannot touch it sometimes. The fan works
fine.

This seems more like there is no circulation. Perhaps the pump is driven
by the boiler? It may be that the pump over run stat is not changing over
as it warms up. Initially the stat will send the pump the boiler demand
signal when the boilers get above a certain temp it will flick over to
connecting the unswitched supply live to the pump.



The other thing I notoiced today is that if I drop the PCB mouting
plate from the front and let air flow freely through it worked fine for
a few hours. Have put it back on timer and left it open tonite to see
if it works OK in the morning. Could this be a dry joint or a problem
with the trip switch?

Might just have kept things cool enough to work?

It's a classic symptom of bad connections on the pcb

c) Copyright 2005
This Usenet message is Copyright by the author. It may not be re-
published in any medium, including electronic, CD-ROM, or database,
packaged with any commercial product, or published in print, without
the explicit, written, permission of the author. The copyright of any
included material belongs to the original author.

Avenue Supplies, Plumbing and Central Heating Professionals, of
Ealing, London W13 are expressly forbidden to re-publish this
message.

Archiving by Google is permitted.



--
geoff

On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 21:04:42 +0000, raden wrote:

In message .uk, Ed
Sirett writes
On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 19:21:58 +0000, raden wrote:

In message .uk, Ed
Sirett writes
On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 00:29:40 -0700, koolio wrote:

Hi Folks,

The boiler pilot lights but the boiler fails to go all guns blazing. I
replaced the 3 Port motorised valve and pump a couple of weekends ago.
Filled up and everything was working fine.

Now the boiler just seems to cut out. Pilot stays on though. If I turn
everything off and restart, it'll fire up for about 5 minutes and then
die on me again.

Any ideas. Cannot find any manuals on potterton site so don't know
where to start. Any help would be greatly appreciated

IIRC these boilers are overgrown "neataheats".
The pilot flame works on a phial+capilliary tube which moves the gas valve
to the full rate. Very like many ovens work.

I don't think that the Profile does

Agreed but this is a "Prima".

It uses the same pcb as the profile, and I think the same gas valve (fan
is different)

I think the netaheat valve was a one off and not used on any other
boiler. It was inherited from the non-electronic version which had a
relay and a spark module as the only active electronics

You may well be right, I have only worked on one Prima before and that was
a few years ago. I thought it had a pilot and then a long delay before the
main gas.


--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

Thanks guys.

Managed to take the PCB off and resolder a joint. All working just
hunky dorey!

Cheers for your ideas.

Ed Sirett wrote:
On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 21:04:42 +0000, raden wrote:

In message .uk, Ed
Sirett writes
On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 19:21:58 +0000, raden wrote:

In message .uk, Ed
Sirett writes
On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 00:29:40 -0700, koolio wrote:

Hi Folks,

The boiler pilot lights but the boiler fails to go all guns blazing. I
replaced the 3 Port motorised valve and pump a couple of weekends ago.
Filled up and everything was working fine.

Now the boiler just seems to cut out. Pilot stays on though. If I turn
everything off and restart, it'll fire up for about 5 minutes and then
die on me again.

Any ideas. Cannot find any manuals on potterton site so don't know
where to start. Any help would be greatly appreciated

IIRC these boilers are overgrown "neataheats".
The pilot flame works on a phial+capilliary tube which moves the gas valve
to the full rate. Very like many ovens work.

I don't think that the Profile does

Agreed but this is a "Prima".

It uses the same pcb as the profile, and I think the same gas valve (fan
is different)

I think the netaheat valve was a one off and not used on any other
boiler. It was inherited from the non-electronic version which had a
relay and a spark module as the only active electronics

You may well be right, I have only worked on one Prima before and that was
a few years ago. I thought it had a pilot and then a long delay before the
main gas.


--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

replying to koolio, Sean wrote:
its so easy to fix. it will takes you 5 min.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...em-195826-.htm

On 12/11/2019 19:14, Sean wrote:

replying to koolio, Sean wrote:
its so easy to fix. it will takes you 5 min.

Lol, says the one replying to a 14 year old message!

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Yes interesting really. Now the small amount of coding required in the web
site to mask out old years seems to be of no interest to anyone.
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"John Rumm" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 12/11/2019 19:14, Sean wrote:

replying to koolio, Sean wrote:
its so easy to fix. it will takes you 5 min.

Lol, says the one replying to a 14 year old message!

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Brian Gaff wrote:

the small amount of coding required in the web
site to mask out old years seems to be of no interest

home owners hub would see it as not in their interest to filter out any
eyeballs seeing their junk.