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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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please can someone help
my husband used the power spray on the car and the next thing we had water gushing down from the loft through the airing cupboard and down to the kitchen. he stopped the water but now then we had no hot water. the control box was not working. so we used the emersion heater to get hot water. we have bought a new heating and hot water computer/control panel and put that on. it looks as though its working and all the display is up. we still have NO heating and i'm freezing !!!!! we have bought all the 3 amp fuses that wickes had on there shelf. as soon as we put one in, it blows? my husband, Bless him has tried everything please please can someone HELP !!!!!!!!!! |
#2
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#3
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its a gas boiler-pilot light still on
not at home to give details of model. could not have been wired up wrong as no wiring touched, we got a new timer control 'thingy' and plugged the new front panel to the exiating control box still fixed to the wall. there is a black mark now above one of the pins in the back of this as yet another fuse blew. so thinking it could be a bad, new one we purchased yet another, but still the fuses keep blowing. |
#4
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#5
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they looked the same, so we asumed the wiring would be ok.
yeh.....i know don't ever asume..... the electrician has been contacted and we are waiting for a reply, saw you guys on the net and thought i would just ask, sorry i couldn't give more info thanks for the help. any idea where i could get a wiring diagramme? as that would be a great help also. cheers |
#6
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In article . com,
wrote: its a gas boiler-pilot light still on not at home to give details of model. could not have been wired up wrong as no wiring touched, we got a new timer control 'thingy' and plugged the new front panel to the exiating control box still fixed to the wall. there is a black mark now above one of the pins in the back of this as yet another fuse blew. so thinking it could be a bad, new one we purchased yet another, but still the fuses keep blowing. Does the fuse blow with the programmer plugged in, but both heating and hot water switched off? Or when hot water only is selected? Or when both? Some basic fault finding is needed to give a diagnosis. -- *Never underestimate the power of very stupid people in large groups * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#7
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my husband has tried this every which way,
one then the other and then with both off pilot light stays on and the fuses keep blowing as soon as they are put in. |
#8
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In article .com,
wrote: my husband has tried this every which way, one then the other and then with both off pilot light stays on and the fuses keep blowing as soon as they are put If they blow with the system switched off so just the programmer is running, its wiring or connection is likely to be the trouble. If it 'flashed' over due to water it's possible this has left a conductive track. So best to change the back plate for the one that came with the new timer - and check the condition of the cables at the same time. Mark each cable as you remove them to make sure they are replaced in the same way. -- *Real men don't waste their hormones growing hair Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#9
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DAVE
PLEASE SEE NEW THREAD...BLOWING FUSES 2 IT HAS MORE INFO |
#11
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firstly, he was washing the car with a jet power spray thing, and i was
painting in the bathroom, i heard water gushing and on looking in the airing cupboard water was running down the wall,the same wall that all the wires and plugs etc are on for the heating and hot water, we have a seperate hw emersion switch and that seems to be fine at least we can get hw. we have a control panel that controls , time settings for the hw and ch. this has a detachable front. we bought a new one,and just repalced the front panel,still the fuses kept blowing as soon as they are put in. we thought that the new panel we bought could have been a dud so we got another one, but still the same. on the back of the detachable front panel are small pins, and above the second one in fron the left there is a scortch mark obviously residue from the fuse blowing. i think its a gloworm system. the system has not been used for the last2 weeks, surely this should have dried it out. we have also bought a new thermostat, just in case it was that. but still the fuses keep blowing. the fuses blow as soon as they are put in. its instant. |
#12
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#13
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no not money!!!
just a freezing wife!! i do not do cold.... and these can be taken back to the shop and money reenbursed. ok richard thanks for aALL your expertise of help in this matter |
#14
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#16
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Richard Conway wrote:
wrote: firstly, he was washing the car with a jet power spray thing, and i was painting in the bathroom, i heard water gushing and on looking in the airing cupboard water was running down the wall,the same wall that all the wires and plugs etc are on for the heating and hot water, snip 1) we have a control panel...we bought a new one 2) we thought that the new panel we bought could have been a dud...we got another one 3) we have also bought a new thermostat...just in case These people have far too much money in my opinion! The 'back' can also be damaged by water, and lead to problems. You may need to replace it. |
#17
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Ian Stirling wrote:
Richard Conway wrote: wrote: firstly, he was washing the car with a jet power spray thing, and i was painting in the bathroom, i heard water gushing and on looking in the airing cupboard water was running down the wall,the same wall that all the wires and plugs etc are on for the heating and hot water, snip 1) we have a control panel...we bought a new one 2) we thought that the new panel we bought could have been a dud...we got another one 3) we have also bought a new thermostat...just in case These people have far too much money in my opinion! The 'back' can also be damaged by water, and lead to problems. You may need to replace it. I'm not going near it ![]() |
#18
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#19
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PLEASE SEE NEW THREAD...BLOWING FUSES 2
MORE INFO |
#21
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In message , Matt
writes wrote: we have bought all the 3 amp fuses that wickes had on there shelf. 3 amps? that's your problem you need to move up to bigger fuses and then when they run out use cut down heavy gauge nails Eventually you will get a very big bang and the source of the problem will be obvious :-) The brass shafts from old potentiometers make great replacements for 13A fuses, never had one blow yet! P.S. DON'T DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! -- Bill |
#22
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Bill wrote:
The brass shafts from old potentiometers make great replacements for 13A fuses, never had one blow yet! You must be old - I was buying them with plastic shafts in the 70's. The only time I got to see metal ones was in scrap equipment donated to me! .......wonder what current they take to blow. -- |
#23
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Bill wrote: The brass shafts from old potentiometers make great replacements for 13A fuses, never had one blow yet! You may jest - but I've seen it done - without any ill effects , as it happens. The workshop in the place where I worked in the 60's was 'modernised' by replacing all the 15A outlets with 13A outlets, and the plugs were changed on all the kit. A MIG welder which had worked perfectly well with an unfused 15A plug started blowing 13A fuses in its new plug. You can guess the rest! As far as I can recall, the wiring wasn't changed - they were radial circuits, fused at the MCB, so using a solid 'fuse' in the plug wasn't really a big issue - but isn't to be recommended for general use! -- Cheers, Set Square ______ Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid. |
#24
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In message , Set Square
writes In an earlier contribution to this discussion, Bill wrote: The brass shafts from old potentiometers make great replacements for 13A fuses, never had one blow yet! You may jest - but I've seen it done - without any ill effects , as it happens. So have I. It was not a jest! -- Bill |
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