Hi,

I have a 1998 1.6 petrol Fiat Brava (the Four door one - or is it a Bravo?
Never can remember which it is :-)) and a couple of times in recent months I
have had trouble turning the key in the ignition.

The key appears to be stuck or 'sticky' much in the same way you can get
trouble with turning a key in a Yale lock.

So, what can I do about this - is it as simple as getting some WD40 and
squirting a small amount into the ignition or is this a bigger problem? I
have been off work sick for several months and have hardly used my car so
could this be a reason?

It is a tad frightening when this happens - usually is the case - when I am
a long way from home :-)

Thanks for any advice or info,


J.

run a soft lead pencil up and down the key as it will not clog the lock like
WD40 does ( locksmiths use it all the time)


"John Smith" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have a 1998 1.6 petrol Fiat Brava (the Four door one - or is it a Bravo?
Never can remember which it is :-)) and a couple of times in recent months
I
have had trouble turning the key in the ignition.

The key appears to be stuck or 'sticky' much in the same way you can get
trouble with turning a key in a Yale lock.

So, what can I do about this - is it as simple as getting some WD40 and
squirting a small amount into the ignition or is this a bigger problem? I
have been off work sick for several months and have hardly used my car so
could this be a reason?

It is a tad frightening when this happens - usually is the case - when I
am
a long way from home :-)

Thanks for any advice or info,


J.

On Thu, 01 Sep 2005 14:17:44 GMT, "John Smith"
wrote:

Hi,

I have a 1998 1.6 petrol Fiat Brava (the Four door one - or is it a Bravo?
Never can remember which it is :-)) and a couple of times in recent months I
have had trouble turning the key in the ignition.

The key appears to be stuck or 'sticky' much in the same way you can get
trouble with turning a key in a Yale lock.

So, what can I do about this - is it as simple as getting some WD40 and
squirting a small amount into the ignition or is this a bigger problem? I
have been off work sick for several months and have hardly used my car so
could this be a reason?

It is a tad frightening when this happens - usually is the case - when I am
a long way from home :-)

Is it the original key? Sometimes re-cut keys can cause this problem.

Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any
oily contamination can catch fire.

sponix

In article ,
says...
On Thu, 01 Sep 2005 14:17:44 GMT, "John Smith"
wrote:

Hi,

I have a 1998 1.6 petrol Fiat Brava (the Four door one - or is it a Bravo?
Never can remember which it is :-)) and a couple of times in recent months I
have had trouble turning the key in the ignition.

The key appears to be stuck or 'sticky' much in the same way you can get
trouble with turning a key in a Yale lock.

So, what can I do about this - is it as simple as getting some WD40 and
squirting a small amount into the ignition or is this a bigger problem? I
have been off work sick for several months and have hardly used my car so
could this be a reason?

It is a tad frightening when this happens - usually is the case - when I am
a long way from home :-)

Is it the original key? Sometimes re-cut keys can cause this problem.

Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any
oily contamination can catch fire.

But graphite powder is a conductor - what do you suggest?

Rob Morley wrote:
In article ,
says...
On Thu, 01 Sep 2005 14:17:44 GMT, "John Smith"
wrote:


Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any
oily contamination can catch fire.

But graphite powder is a conductor - what do you suggest?

So is the steel the key is made from!! It's the flammability of the oil
that's a problem, not it's electrical properties. Graphite will be fine.

On Thu, 1 Sep 2005 15:55:21 +0100, Rob Morley
wrote:


Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any
oily contamination can catch fire.

But graphite powder is a conductor - what do you suggest?

Graphite powder won't seep into the switch mechanism like oil will.

If the key is sticking then either the key is wrong (poorly cut or
worn) or the lock is worn.

Try ebay-you may find a brand new lock/key for not a lot of money.

sponix

"s--p--o--n--i--x" wrote in message
...


Is it the original key? Sometimes re-cut keys can cause this problem.

Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any
oily contamination can catch fire.

sponix

Yes, it is the original key - or rather one of the two original keys. I am
going to try and dig out the other one. The one I curently use is the second
one I used after the fob broke off the first one.

s--p--o--n--i--x wrote:
Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any
oily contamination can catch fire.

Hirsty's wrote:
run a soft lead pencil up and down the key as it will not clog the
lock like WD40 does ( locksmiths use it all the time)

Why have so many people on this NG got such a downer on WD40? The solvent
carrier in WD40 could catch fire true, but its gone in a few seconds and
there is no reason why it should clog anything up - quite the opposite, it
cleans things. I've used it on all sorts of locks for years and years and
never had the slightest trouble.

IMO a wonderful product.

Dave

"david lang" wrote:

s--p--o--n--i--x wrote:
Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any
oily contamination can catch fire.

Hirsty's wrote:
run a soft lead pencil up and down the key as it will not clog the
lock like WD40 does ( locksmiths use it all the time)

Why have so many people on this NG got such a downer on WD40? The solvent
carrier in WD40 could catch fire true, but its gone in a few seconds and
there is no reason why it should clog anything up - quite the opposite, it
cleans things. I've used it on all sorts of locks for years and years and
never had the slightest trouble.

IMO a wonderful product.

WD40 has a place as a moderately good water dispersant. But it's not
a particularly good lubricant, it's certainly not a penetrating fluid
and it's worse than useless for lock barrel lubrication.

The only lubricant that should ever be used for locks is powdered
graphite.

Anyone who happens to leave their car outside during cold weather will
have no end of problems getting into the car if WD40, or oil, or ****,
or lock defroster, or deicer, or a hot kettle has been used to get the
key to work. A flush through with isopropyl alcohol followed by dry
powdered graphite and the locks will still open when its -25 deg C
(and even lower)

Quite a few vehicle manufacturers actually recommend that NO lubricant
at all is used on ignition key barrels.


--

In article ,
says...
"david lang" wrote:

s--p--o--n--i--x wrote:
Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any
oily contamination can catch fire.

Hirsty's wrote:
run a soft lead pencil up and down the key as it will not clog the
lock like WD40 does ( locksmiths use it all the time)

Why have so many people on this NG got such a downer on WD40? The solvent
carrier in WD40 could catch fire true, but its gone in a few seconds and
there is no reason why it should clog anything up - quite the opposite, it
cleans things. I've used it on all sorts of locks for years and years and
never had the slightest trouble.

IMO a wonderful product.

WD40 has a place as a moderately good water dispersant. But it's not
a particularly good lubricant, it's certainly not a penetrating fluid
and it's worse than useless for lock barrel lubrication.

The only lubricant that should ever be used for locks is powdered
graphite.

Anyone who happens to leave their car outside during cold weather will
have no end of problems getting into the car if WD40, or oil, or ****,
or lock defroster, or deicer, or a hot kettle has been used to get the
key to work. A flush through with isopropyl alcohol followed by dry
powdered graphite and the locks will still open when its -25 deg C
(and even lower)

Quite a few vehicle manufacturers actually recommend that NO lubricant
at all is used on ignition key barrels.

I'm intruiged - how does one apply powedered graphite to lock barrels?
Is it available in aerosol form?

Cheers,
--
James Dore,
IT Officer,
New College
james.dore@new / it-support@new

On Fri, 2 Sep 2005 09:20:07 UTC, James Dore
wrote:

I'm intruiged - how does one apply powedered graphite to lock barrels?
Is it available in aerosol form?

Not quite. A plastic puffer package. Think of the little green
containers for Resin W wood glue - a bit like that, but smaller.
Typically no more than a couple of quid.

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://laminateflooring.oncloud8.com

On Fri, 2 Sep 2005 10:20:07 +0100, James Dore
wrote:

I'm intruiged - how does one apply powedered graphite to lock barrels?
Is it available in aerosol form?

As far as I know you can buy it in a little 'puffer' bottle.

sponix

It comes in plastic 'puffer' bottles - you squeeze the bottle and a
puff of graphite comes out.

Matt wrote:

WD40 has a place as a moderately good water dispersant. But it's not
a particularly good lubricant, it's certainly not a penetrating fluid
and it's worse than useless for lock barrel lubrication.

The only lubricant that should ever be used for locks is powdered
graphite.

Anyone who happens to leave their car outside during cold weather will
have no end of problems getting into the car if WD40, or oil, or ****,
or lock defroster, or deicer, or a hot kettle has been used to get the
key to work. A flush through with isopropyl alcohol followed by dry
powdered graphite and the locks will still open when its -25 deg C
(and even lower)

I understand completely the reasoning behind not using WD40. However, every
winter for perhaps 30 or more years I have sprayed it in to my car locks
perhaps once a month. Some of the cars I have owned for 6 years. I have
*never* been unable to open the doors even when others around me have had
problems.

WD40 is available everywhere, but I have not seen powdered graphite for sale
anywhere. (Not that it has been top of my shopping list though!)

Quite a few vehicle manufacturers actually recommend that NO lubricant
at all is used on ignition key barrels.

I think most do. Once the lock has reached the point of jamming I would
consider replacement is the best option.

Chris

--
Remove prejudice to reply

Chris Whelan wrote:

WD40 is available everywhere, but I have not seen powdered graphite for sale
anywhere.

I inherited a jar of it from my grandfather. Unfortunately, I also
inherited a similar jar of iron filings from him. One's a better
lubricant of Bendix starter motors gears than the other...

On Fri, 2 Sep 2005 09:41:36 UTC, Chris Whelan
wrote:

WD40 is available everywhere, but I have not seen powdered graphite for sale
anywhere.

http://www.cpc.co.uk

Part number ME18361 ...

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://laminateflooring.oncloud8.com

In uk.d-i-y Matt wrote:
snip
The only lubricant that should ever be used for locks is powdered
graphite.

Interestingly, the last small yale padlock I had recommended WD40.

On Fri, 02 Sep 2005 09:45:38 +0100, Matt
wrote:

The only lubricant that should ever be used for locks is powdered
graphite.

For pinned or wafer locks ("Yale" and car ignitions) then I'd agree.

For lever locks, the right light grease is entirely appropriate.

On Thu, 01 Sep 2005 21:45:02 GMT, "david lang"
wrote:

Why have so many people on this NG got such a downer on WD40? The solvent
carrier in WD40 could catch fire true, but its gone in a few seconds and
there is no reason why it should clog anything up - quite the opposite, it
cleans things. I've used it on all sorts of locks for years and years and
never had the slightest trouble.

I don't have a downer on WD40, far from it I think it's great!

However, over many years of working on cars I have been advised never
to use any sort of liquid lubricant on ignition barrels. (A number of
car fires have started due to the ignition switch overheating.)

sponix

On Thu, 01 Sep 2005 21:45:02 GMT, "david lang"
wrote:

Why have so many people on this NG got such a downer on WD40?

It's like Hammerite - great product in its own terms, but it's mis-sold
as a wonderful panacea for _all_ problems. Lots of people think that
WD-40 is Plus-gas. Then when it completely fails at something it was
never intended for, the product gets a poor name.

Be interested to hear the outcome of this as my 98 Bravo 1.8 does the same
on occasion - usual fix is to remove the key, reinsert and have another go


Hellraiser...........

"Hellraiser" wrote in message
...
Be interested to hear the outcome of this as my 98 Bravo 1.8 does the same
on occasion - usual fix is to remove the key, reinsert and have another go


Hellraiser...........


I agree on the flamability. Better to use Servisol Switch Lube. The trouble
is that you don't really know if the problem is the lock cylinder, the
steering lock mechanism - or the switch. Ideally they should each be treated
differently. Oil on alloy barrels can form a sludgy gum.

John

In article , john says...

I agree on the flamability.

Another muppet.


--
Conor

"You're not married, you haven't got a girlfriend and you've never seen
Star Trek? Good Lord!" - Patrick Stewart, Extras.

In article , hellraiser1
@nospam.blueyonder.co.uk says...
Be interested to hear the outcome of this as my 98 Bravo 1.8 does the same
on occasion - usual fix is to remove the key, reinsert and have another go


Must be a "feature" - my wife's key for our 2001 Brava 1.2 is the same -
but in her case it's definetely the key.

--
AG

Remove removes from address to remove anti-spam measures.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Alan Gauton E-Mail agauton @ postmaster.co.uk

Never for me the lowered banner, never the last endeavour!
(Damon Hill - 16th June 1999)

On Fri, 2 Sep 2005 09:50:39 +0100, Alan Gauton
wrote:

In article , hellraiser1
says...
Be interested to hear the outcome of this as my 98 Bravo 1.8 does the same
on occasion - usual fix is to remove the key, reinsert and have another go


Must be a "feature" - my wife's key for our 2001 Brava 1.2 is the same -
but in her case it's definetely the key.

Fiat obviously use the same 'quality' metal for keys as they do for
sub frames and body panels!

s--p--o--n--i--x wrote:

Fiat obviously use the same 'quality' metal for keys as they do for
sub frames and body panels!

I was always told FIAT stood for Fix It Again Tomorrow :-)

Dave

"s--p--o--n--i--x" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 2 Sep 2005 09:50:39 +0100, Alan Gauton
wrote:

In article , hellraiser1
says...
Be interested to hear the outcome of this as my 98 Bravo 1.8 does the
same
on occasion - usual fix is to remove the key, reinsert and have another
go


Must be a "feature" - my wife's key for our 2001 Brava 1.2 is the same -
but in her case it's definetely the key.

Fiat obviously use the same 'quality' metal for keys as they do for
sub frames and body panels!

Don't knock Fiat bodywork - my 7 year old Bravo is fully galvanised and has
no rust at all, what's more impressive is my wife's 16 year old Tipo is
currently sitting on the drive looking immaculate - it needed a small bit of
floorpan in the boot replacing for MOT last year (stone chip to the
underbody protection, causing water to get in and rust) but aside from that
it's rock solid. Saw a Ford Ka the other day, 1999, bloody great load of
rust near the filler cap and a manky sill end, so I think Fiat's have now
lost their reputation of rustbuckets and passed the baton onto Ford

Must admit, having spent the day polishing and waxing the Tipo, I looked at
the other cars nearby and they all looked ****e by comparison - bright white
is a great colour if looked after and clean

Hellraiser.............

John Smith wrote:
Hi,

I have a 1998 1.6 petrol Fiat Brava (the Four door one - or is it a Bravo?
Never can remember which it is :-)) and a couple of times in recent months I
have had trouble turning the key in the ignition.

The key appears to be stuck or 'sticky' much in the same way you can get
trouble with turning a key in a Yale lock.

So, what can I do about this - is it as simple as getting some WD40 and
squirting a small amount into the ignition or is this a bigger problem? I
have been off work sick for several months and have hardly used my car so
could this be a reason?

It is a tad frightening when this happens - usually is the case - when I am
a long way from home :-)

Thanks for any advice or info,


Before you set light to the car with WD40, it's not the steering lock is
it? Does the key release if you ease the steering wheel one way or the
other?

I think all my cars have locked the ignition key occasionally and it is
easily reproducable like this:

1. Stop the car with the front wheels slightly turned.

2. Remove the key. In this position the wheel will still turn as the
steering lock has not engaged, but it will engage if the wheel is turned
far enough.

3. Turn the wheel so the steering clicks and locks. This will often
happen if the wheel is in an unfortunate position as I get in or out of
the car. In that position the wheel will have a little play on the
steering lock if you turn it one way but be absolutely solid if you try
to turn it the other. In this state the key will not turn as it needs
to release the steering lock which is under tension.

4. The solution is simple: just ease a gentle pressure on the wheel to
provide a little slack and the lock turns easily.

I hope it's that simple. Good luck!

Phil





--
Phil Brady
Information Services
University of Wales, Bangor
Adeilad Deiniol
Deiniol Rd
Bangor LL57 2UX

Tel +44 (0)1248 382960
Fax +44 (0)1248 383826

In article , P.R.Brady says...

Before you set light to the car with WD40,

How exactly is he going to do that?

Pillock.


--
Conor

"You're not married, you haven't got a girlfriend and you've never seen
Star Trek? Good Lord!" - Patrick Stewart, Extras.

"P.R.Brady" wrote in message
...

Before you set light to the car with WD40, it's not the steering lock is
it? Does the key release if you ease the steering wheel one way or the
other?

I think all my cars have locked the ignition key occasionally and it is
easily reproducable like this:

1. Stop the car with the front wheels slightly turned.

2. Remove the key. In this position the wheel will still turn as the
steering lock has not engaged, but it will engage if the wheel is turned
far enough.

3. Turn the wheel so the steering clicks and locks. This will often
happen if the wheel is in an unfortunate position as I get in or out of
the car. In that position the wheel will have a little play on the
steering lock if you turn it one way but be absolutely solid if you try to
turn it the other. In this state the key will not turn as it needs to
release the steering lock which is under tension.

4. The solution is simple: just ease a gentle pressure on the wheel to
provide a little slack and the lock turns easily.

I hope it's that simple. Good luck!

Phil








Thanks all, the graphite from a pencil idea seems to work. Also, it could
well be steering lock related so thanks for the advice on that. Interested
to see several other Brava owners with occasional similar problems.

John.

The message
from "John Smith" contains
these words:

Thanks all, the graphite from a pencil idea seems to work.

Be a little careful using pencil graphite in locks - hard pencils have
the graphite mixed with clay, which ain't good at all. Use as soft a
pencil as possile, or preferably proper locksmith's graphite.

--
Skipweasel.
In the beginning was the word.
And the word was Aardvark.

On Mon, 5 Sep 2005 14:37:15 +0100, Guy King
wrote:

The message
from "John Smith" contains
these words:

Thanks all, the graphite from a pencil idea seems to work.

Be a little careful using pencil graphite in locks - hard pencils have
the graphite mixed with clay, which ain't good at all. Use as soft a
pencil as possile, or preferably proper locksmith's graphite.

Better still, use PTFE spray lubricant.

--
Frank Erskine
Sunderland